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Weaving 



A Practical Guide to the 

MECHANICAL CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION, AND CARE OF WEAVING 

MACHINERY, AND ALL DETAILS OF THE MECHANICAL 

PROCESSES INVOLVED IN WEAVING 



By H. WILLIAM NELSON 

Head of Department of Weaving: 
Lowell Textile School, Lowell, Mass. 



ILLUSTRATED 



CHICAGO 
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 

'^ 1909 



< 






LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two CoDies Received 

MAK 22 ia09 

CLASS Om XXc. No, 



Copyright 1908 by 
American Schooi, of Correspondknce 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, L/ondon 
All Rights Reserved 



0, 



Fore\vord 




u 



'HE Textile Industry has shared to such an extent the 
modern tendency toward specialization, and has been 
marked by the development of such a multiplicity of 
types of machinery and special mechanical and chem- 
ical processes, that the various branches of this great 
industry to - day constitute distinct though closely related arts. 
The present volume is intended to furnish a comprehensive 
treatment of the fundamental branch of Weaving, serving the 
purposes of a practical guide to the mechanical construction, 
operation, and care of weaving machinery, and all details of the 
mechanical processes involved in weaving, from the preparation 
of the cotton, woolen, or worsted yarn, to the finishing of the 
complete woven fabric, and including helpful suggestions cal- 
culated to promote the efficiency of the textile worker and in- 
sure the highest standard of output. 

C Special stress is laid on the practical as distinguished from 
the merely theoretical or descriptive form of treatment of each 
topic, the work being based on a careful study of machinery, 
conditions, and needs as developed in the best American mills. 

C This volume will be found especially adapted for purposes 
of self -instruction and home study, fitted not only to meet the 
requirements ;?^of an instruction manual for the beginner in the 



art of Weaving, but also to serve as a reference work replete 
with useful information of the utmost practical value to the 
most advanced and experienced textile worker. 

C The method adopted in the preparation of this volume is 
that which the American School of Correspondence has devel- 
oped and employed so successfully for many years. It is not an 
experiment, but has stood the severest of all tests — that of 
practical use— which has demonstrated it to be the best method 
yet devised for the education of the busy workingman. 

C For purposes of ready reference, and timely information 
when needed, it is believed that this volume will be found to 
meet every requirement. 




Table of Contents 



Warp Preparation Page *11 

Cotton Warp Proparation — Spooler — Calculations for Spindle Speed — P>anding 
— Building Motion — Bobbin Holder — Thread Guide — Production from Spool- 
ei-s — Beam Warping — Creel — Expansion Reed — Measuring Roll — Faller Rod — 
Expansion Comb — Beam Drive — Cone Drive — Variable Motion — Measuring 
Motion — Expansion Drum — Colored Warps — Long Chain — Balling Machine — 
Traverse Guide — Overhead Bailer — Winding Machine — Double Screw — Chain 
Separator — Linker — Long-Chain Beamer — Swinging Comb — Quiller — Short 
Chain — Slasher — Size Box — Immersion Roller — Squeeze Rolls — Cylinders — 
Reducing Valve — Steam Trap — Vacuum Valve — .Gear Drive — Fan — Split Rods 
— Tension and Press Rolls — Slow Motion — Calculations for Measuring Roll 
and Bell Gear — Sizing of Colored Yarns and Bleached Goods — Sizing 
Formulae and Compounds — Starting Up a New Set of Beams — Brushes — Leese 
Rods — Calculations for Striped Cotton Shirtings — Woolen and Worsted Warp 
Dressing — Iland-Rail — Iland-Beamer — Power Warping — Steam Dresser — Leese 
and Condenser Reeds — Taking the Leese — Reel — Beaming 

Adjustment, Operation, and Care of Looms .... Page 83 

Twisting and Drawing In Warps — Lubrication of Harnesses — Hand Loom 
Mectianism — Plain Power Loom — Lay Sword — Pick Cams — Shedding Motion — 
Cams — Result of Unequal Cams — Relatioji of Treadle Bowl to Cam — Measure- 
ments of Shed — Construction of Cams — Picking Motion — Cone Pick — Relation 
of the Cone Pitch — Dogs on Picking Arms — Setting Picking Stick and Con- 
nections — Bat Wing or Ball and Shoe Pick — Saving of Pickers — Swells or 
Binders (Front, Back, Tapered) — Beating Up Motion — Eccentricity of the 
Lay — Shuttle Boxes and Shuttles — Let-Oif Motions — Gear Let-OfC — Friction 
Let-Off — Take-Up Motions (Positive, Intermittent, Continuous, Negative) — 
Filling Stop Motion — Frog Motion — Protection Device — Knowles Gingham 
Box Looms — Knowles Box Loom Lower ^Motion — Upper Box Motion — Chain 
Building — Multiplier — To Prevent Filling from Drawing — ^Crompton Gingham 
Box Loom — Temples — Burrs — Center Stop jNIotion — Minor Problems in Loom 
Running — Care of Looms — General Loom Fixing — Banging Off -^ Shuttle 
Flying Out— ^Unevenness, Poor Selvedges, and Other Defects in Cloth — Filling 
and Bobbins Breaking — Filling Cut — Loom Stopping, or Failure to Stop — 
Wrong Timing of Stop Motion 

Weave Room Calculations Page 249 

Cotton and Woolen Yarns — Worsted Yarns — Raw Silk — Linen — Combined 
Yarns — Stock Taking — Loom Calculations (Production, Quantity, Per Cent, 
and Cost I — Cost of Production in Weave Room — Humidity in Weave Room — 
Humidifiers 

Jacquard Machines Page 279 

Single-Action Machines — Hooks — Needle-Plate — Griffe — Methods of Operating 
— Overhead Lever Lift — Batten or Swing Cylinder Motion — Spindle Cylinder 
Motion — Slide Cylinder Motion — Bottom or Cradle Lever Lift — Double Lift 
and Single Cylinder Machines — Double-Action Machines — Rise and Fall or 
Close Shed Machines 

Index Page 319 



^For page numbers, see foot of pages. 




o .3 

U Si 



> 
O 

Oh 



WARP PREPARATION. 



It shoiild be the aim of every overseer to excel in his cccupa- 
tion ; but success is dependent upon certain conditions which are 
often difficult to maintain. These conditions may be classified 
in a general way under the following heads : 

1. Large Production. 

2. Fine quality of Production. 

3. Long life of the machinery in use. 

4. Low cost of maintenance. 

To lose sight of any one of these, or to sacrifice the last three 
for tlie first, indicates incompetence. Intelligent management takes 
into consideration all four conditions and holds them for an ideal. 

COTTON WARP PREPARATION. 

THE SPOOLER. 

This machine, as its name implies, is for the purpose of spooling 
the yarn as it comes from the ring spinning frame. It is shown 
in Eig. 1. Apparently 'it is a very simple machine, but it is essen- 
tial that it should be thoroughly miderstood. It is uneconomical 
to run it at a speed not suited to the quality and counts of yarn 
in preparation. In the first place, the spools run by gravity and 
merely rest on the base of the spindles ; also, while the speed may 
be correct when the yarn is being run on an almost empty spool, the 
increase of circumference, as the yaxn is added to the spool, in- 
creases the speed of the yarn and brings an added strain upon it. 
This is costly, because the extra strain causes the yarn to break 
frequently, and the spooler-tender is able to look after only about 50 
instead of 75 spindles. In addition, the constant piecing means a 
larger percentage of knots in the yarn than is desirable for the 
best results. This should be thoroughly understood at the begin- 
ni ag. Poor spooling results in poor warps, and no later treatment 
can overcome this defect. Spooler-tenders should be trained to 
make as small and as good knots as possible ; and if attention is 



11 



WARP PREPARATION. 



paid to the work at this stage there will be les's trouble in the 
weave rooms. 

Weak yarns can stand less speed than the stronger yarns, 
consequently the speed should be adjusted to the strength of the 
yarn. For example, a good 60's yarn would probably stand 800 
revolutions per minute, but if the speed seemed too low when the 
spool was small and was increased to 850 or 900 revolutions,. 









Fig. 1. 



the loss would be greater than the gain because the yarn would 
break more frequently as the circumference of the yarn on the 
spool increased. 

CALCULATIONS FOR SPEED. 

It is customary to have the spindle run from 700 to 1,000 
revolutions per minute, and the following is the method of calcu- 
lation. 

Multiply the revolutions of the main driving shaft by the 
diameter of the pulley on the same shaft, also by the diameter of 
the drum or tin cylinder, around which the driving bands pass : 
then multiply the driving pulley on the machine by the size of the 
whirl or whorl on the spindle, divide the first product by the 
second, and the result will be the speed of the spindle. 

Suppose the main shaft is running at 300 revolutions per 
minute and the pulley on this shaft is 54 inches in diameter. If 



12 



WARP PREPARATION. 



the drum is G inclies in diameter, the pulley on the machine 10 
inches and the whirl 1^^ inches, Avliat is the speed of the 
spindles ? 



Pulley on 
Main Shaft. 



Diam. of 
Drum. 



Rev. of Main 
Driving Shaft. 

300 X 51- X 6 
10 



X 1t% 

Diam. of Diameter 

Machine Pulley, of Whirl. 



754.28 revs, per min. 



About 755| revs, per min. 

To find diameter of pulley for main driviug shaft, speed of 
whirl given, multiply revolutions of whirl by diameter of whirl 
and by diameter of pulley on machine and divide the product by 
diameter of the drum multiplied by revolutions of main shaft. 



Rev. per minute 
of Whirl. 



755.72 X 



Diameter 
of Whirl. 

1^ 



Diameter of Pulley 
on Machine. 



X 



10 



300 

Rev. per minute 
of Shaft. 



X 



5^1 in. Diam. of Pulley. 



Diam. of 
Drum. 



Banding. There are two systems by which motion is 
imparted to the spindle from the drum : by a single band for 

_ BAND, 




each spindle, or by connecting together four or more spindles on 
each side of the frame by one endless band, as shown in Fig. 2. 
Both systems have their advantages, but the latter is more 
common. One reason for this is that when a single band breaks 
that spindle alone is stopped, and is not readily seen. When the 
multiple band breaks, however, several are stopped, which attracts 
attention instantly. Again, the band which drives a number of 
spindles lasts much longer than the single band. 



13 



WARP PREPARATION. 



Building Motion. There are two distinct kinds of building 
motions. One builds a straight spool, the other builds a convex 
or rounded spool. The latter is by far the best, and is most com- 
monly used. A convex wound spool holds more yarn than the 
straight wound spool, because it can be made larger in the middle 
without fear of the yaCrn being rubbed over the flanges. The 




Fig. 3. 



EH- 



TPAV£RS£ 
GtAR 



PLAN OF GEARS. 



convex shape is caused by the builder rail traveling more slowly 
at the middle of the traverse, and in this way allowing more 
yarn to be placed on the spool at this point. 

The building motion is as follows (see Figs. 3 and 4) : A 
6-tooth pinion, A, imparts motion to the mangle gear, B ; on the 



14 



W^ARP PREPARATION. 



same shaft as the mangle gear is the traverse or change gear C. 
An intermediate gear D connects the traverse gear to the segment 
E, which is fixed on a shaft that extends from one end of the 

TRAV£ffS£ G£ARWO 




END VIEW OF SPOOLER. 

machine to the other. At different phaces on this shaft are small 
pulleys, to which are connected the chains that lift the builder 
rail. The mangle gear has a reciprocal motion, owing to the 

JL 




Fig. 4. 
small pinion rotating on the inside as well as the outside of the 
gear. The mangle also has two different diameters, which cause 
a fast and slow motion to the builder rail, the largest diameter 
being at the center of the gear ; this is the direct cause of the 
convex-shaped spool. 



1$ 



WARP PREPARATION. 



When calculating the speed of the traverse, two teeth must 
be added to the number of teeth or bars on the mangle gear, 
because there is a loss of one tooth as the small pinion passes 
round the end of the gear ; and this occurs at both ends. 

For example : 



Eev. of Main 
Driving Shaft. 

300 



X 



Pulley on 
Main Shaft. 



Pulley on Small 
Machine Shaft. 



Small 
Pinion. 



X 



2f 



X 



6 



10 

Pulley on 
Machine Shaft. 



X 



10^ 



X 



62 



4.18 trav. per min. 



Pulley on Small Teeth of 
Pinion Shaft. Mangle Gear. 



Some claim that the mangle ought to be calculated as an ordi- 
nary gear, but the foregoing is the result of careful measurements. 





Fie. 5. 



Fig. 7. 



Fig. 5 shows the mangle of a straight-built bobbin, but as 
stiated before, this motion is not of as great value as the elliptic 
mangle gear, on account of the greater production of the latter. 

Bobbin Holder. The yai-n is received from the spinning 
frame on a bobbin or pirn ; it is then placed in the bobbin holder 
(shown in Fig. 6), which is in the form of a cradle or concave 
casting. Each cradle is supported on a rod which extends the 
entire length of the machine. 

When setting the cradle, it should be tilted or inclined so that 
the yarn will have the least amount of friction ; it can be readily 
seen that if the cradle has too steep an incline, there will be too 
much strain on the yarn when it is drawn from the lower end of 



WARP PREPARATION. 



9 



the bobbin ; and of course the opposite is the case when the cradle 
is too flat. The cradles should be set so that they will cause as light 
and equal a tension as possible. Two swinging wires are attached 
to the upper portion of the holder, one at each side ; these prevent 
the bobbin from being drawn out of the cradle while the yarn 
is being unwound ; they also add a little friction to the yarn, 
and prevent it from rewinding around the bobbin if the spool 
should stop. If weak yarn is being spooled, it is best to have 
the end from the pirn pass between the swinging wires instead 
of under them. This will take off all the fiiction. 

Thread Guide. There are two distinct kinds of thread 
guide ; one is made from flat steel, about -^^ inch thick, with a slot 
cut in the plate through which the yarn passes on to the spool. 




Fig. 6. 

When the counts of yarn are changed, and there is a wide differ- 
ence in the counts, it is necessary to change the guide, because if 
a fine yarn has been spooled, and a coarse yarn is desired, a guide 
with a larger slot is necessary ; on the other hand, a smaller slot 
is required for finer counts. It is essential that the size of the slot 
conform to the size of the yarn, because the guide also performs 
the functions of a cleanser. If any foreign substance adheres to 
the yarn, or, as it sometimes happens, there are lumpy places in 
the yarn, it is best to have it cleansed at this point, otherwise it will 
remain in the warp, and cause poor cloth, or endless trouble to 
the weaver. So that if a coarse guide is used for fine yarns, the 
rough places pass through the guide and on to the spool. 

The second kind of guide (shown in Fig. 7) is by far the 
best, and is most commonly used. There are different makes, but all 



X7 



10 



WARP PREPARATION. 




Fig. 8. 



embody the same principles. These are made of adjustable parts, so 
that they can be used for different counts of yarn. The yarn passes 
over a rounded lip, and under the gage plate, which is adjustable. 
The rounded lip on this guide is very easy on the yarn. The guides 
are attached to the builder rail, and guide the yarn to the spool. 

In some mills the warp 
yarn is spun on the mule, and 
the yarn is received at the 
spooler in cop form instead of 
on bobbins. Where this is the 
case, the cop is placed on an 
upright spindle instead of in a 
bobbin holder ; the thread guide 
is also dispensed with, and in 
place of this is adjusted a wood- 
en bar which has a piece of felt 
attached to it. The felt cleanses 
the yarn, and adds friction. 
If the yarn is transferred from bobbins, it is customary to 
have an upright spindle near one end of the machine ; this is for 
the purpose of running off soft spun or tangled bobbins. 

Production. Mills differ in. the amount of production of 
spoolers, but the following gives a general idea of what ought to 
be produced under ordinary circumstances : 

18 to 10 counts, 3X pounds to 4J^ pounds per day with the spindl6 run- 
ning 750 revolutions. 

50 to 28 counts, 1% pounds to 3 pounds per day with the spindle run- 
ning 750 revolutions. 

The above production would be enlarged about 1 pound for 
the coarser counts and about 4 ounces for the finer counts, with 
825 revolutions of the spindle. 

The finer the counts, the less will be the production. Not 
necessarily because of the more yards to the pound, but in some 
cases because of the added strain, and the necessary reduction in 
speed. It requires the production of 14 spindles on the ring 
spinning frame to supply one spindle on the spooler, for counts of 
yarn varying from 18's to 24's. 28's to 50's require from 15 to 20 
spindles on the ring frame to supply one on the spooler, 



18 



WARP PREPARATION. 



11 



One of the best inventions of recent date is tlie Barber and 
Colman knotter (see Fig. 8), by means of which more work can 
be accomplished than by hand ; tlie knots are uniform, and as small 
as it is possible to make them. 

BEAM WARPING. 

The beam warper is for the purpose of making a warp for the 
back of the slasher ; the ends of yarn, or threads from a number 
of spools that have been filled, are placed side by side on a beam, 
and when sufficient length has been run on the beam it is cut out 
and replaced by an empty beam, this order being followed until 
sufficient back warps or back beams have been made to fill up the 
creel at the back of the slasher. 




OLD FORM OF COTTON WARPER. 

Creel. The spools are placed in a creel, which may hold 
from 300 to 1,000. The creel is constructed in the form of a V, 
with the vertex nearest the machine. Down each leg of the V a 
number of upright bays or tiers are placed, according to the capacity 
of the creel ; in the upriglit bay the spools are placed one above 
the other. The bays of the creel are fixed or changeable ; this being 
determined by the amount of floor space available. If the floor 
space is small, changeable bays are used, and the angles of the 



19 



12 



WARP PREPARATION. 



tiers, or rows of spools, can be changed to suit the altered bays. 
This is necessary when the angle of the bay is changed, because 
as the yarn is drawn off the spool, the added tension spoils the 
elasticity, if it does not break it. 



!i M tf ■ I I 



ff T I 



II IS 



irrr r \ r rvrrn T\ ~i 

rr'rrrrifirrri 
rrrry'r .j__fe5. IsS 








Expansion Reed. From the creel the yarn passes through 
an expansion reed. The purpose of this reed is to Tary the width 
of the ends from the creel so that it will conform to the width of 
^he beam on which it is to be placed, 



2Q 



WARP PREPARATION. 



13 



rieasuring Roll. From the reed the ends pass over the 
measuring roll and underneath the faller rod. 

Faller Rod. This rod serves a twofold purpose. When the 
warper is stopj^ed, the spools overrun a little, and instead of the 
yarn wrapping around the spool, and eventually being broken, 
the rod falls and keeps the yarn taut. Also, if an end breaks and 
the warp must be turned back, the faller rod takes up the slack 
yarn and prevents the ends from snarling. Some machines are 
constructed so that this rod is raised up instead oi falling; it 




Fig. 10. 

answers the same purpose. The yarn then passes over a standard 
rod and through the drop wires. The drop wires are actually the 
stop motion, and there are as many wires "as there are ends in the 
warper; one wire for every end. Fig. 10 illustrates the entire 
stop motion. The detached sketch on the left shows the shape 
and construction of the drop- wire motion, but only one row; 
there being two rows in actual use, as shown in the large sketch. 



^l 



14 WARP PREPARATION. 

A is a brass slide to which the drop wire is attached ; this brass 
slide is placed in the slot in the tin holder. C is a strip of sheet 
iron attached to the tin holder, to prevent the brass slide from 
dropping out. When an end is passed through the loop of the 
drop wire and is held tight, the wire is upright, as shown in D. 
E shows the wire down, the end being broken. F is a flat bar 
which prevents the wire from dropping too low. G is a portion 
of an oscillating bar. There are two of these bars, one for each 
row of drop wii-es. 

The motion that operates the oscillating bars is derived 
■through a series of levers, from a shell cam, H, fixed on the outer 
end of the drum shaft. A small iron roller placed on the end of 
the lever K v^^orks in the groove of the cam at L. The upright 
catch rod M is connected by a stud to lever K at K'. A second 
upright lever, marked N, is connected to the arm of the oscillating 
bars ; a projection on the latter rests on the top of lever M, and 
as M is raised by the action of the cam, it forces up N, thereby 
giving motion to the oscillating bars. The weight of lever N and 
its connecting bar keeps the projection in contact with M, when 
the latter is drawn down. 

During the ordinary working of the machine the two beveled 
edges, X, are in close contact, but when a wire drops down, the 
end of yarn being broken, the oscillating bars are prevented from 
passing the usual distance, and as the cam draws down lever M the 
catch point on M is forced over on the catch of the shipper lever, P ; 
this in turn will force off the shipper rod and stop the machine. 
When the end is tied up and the machine started, the beveled 
edges return to place. Q is the shipper rod, attached to a foot- 
board, by means of which the operative starts up the machine. 
From the drop wires the ends pass through a second expansion 
comb over a rod to the beam. 

Expansion Comb. The purpose of this comb is. the same 
as the reed at the back of the machine ; that is, to contract or 
expand the width that the ends occupy, to conform to the width of 
the beam on which they are placed. If the space is too wide, the 
ends crowd up on the sides, and when they are drawn off in 
the slasher the side ends become loose while the rest are tight. If 
the space is not wide enough, the beam is not filled up equally and 



99 



■WARP PREPARATION. 



15 



the results are as poor as in the former case. 11. us we see that oa e 
should be taken to have the ends pa.s onto the beam as venly 
as possible. 'This difference between the reed and the comb is as 
foC • the reed has a cap on it to prevent the ends from commg 





out at the top, while the comb i= open, so that the end can be 
passed over fr^m one dent to another. Fig. 11 shows two forms 
of expansion oombs with varying numbers of dents to the inch. 

Beam Drive. The beam is driven by friction, that is, it rests 
on a driving drum, which is generally twelve or eighteen inches in 
dimeter, ^wing to the beam being ^lus f^^-'^J^- 
placed on it at a constant speed, no matter whether it is a laige 



23 



16 



WARP PREPARATION. 



or small beam. If the drum is 36 inches in circumference, for 
instance, and is driven at a constant speed, it will take just as long 
for the drum to turn an empty beam the distance of 36 inches as 
it would to turn the distance of 36 inches on a full beam. So 
that if the beam when it is full of yarn measures 3 yards in cir- 
cumference, it will take three times as long to turn the full beam 
as it did to turn the empty beam, when it was 36 inches in cir- 
cumference. While the yarn does not travel faster as the beam 
increases in size, the spools on the creel travel faster as the yarn 
is taken off the spool; consequently there is a greater strain on 




Fig. 12. 

the yarn when there is less quantity on the sx^ool. This often 
causes the yarn to break, which is detrimental to good weaving, 
inasmuch as knots in the warp 3^arn increase the amount of 
defective cloth. 

Cone Drive. To overcome the difficulty of increased strain-, 
the cone drive (shown in Fig. 12) has been added to the warper; 
this regulates the speed of the drum, so that as the warp increases 
in size and the spools decrease in size, the speed of the drum can 



24 



WARP PREPARATION. 



17 



be reduced. Thougli the drum travels slower at this time, the 
machine can travel faster when the spools are full. 

It is claimed tliat by the use of the cone drive there is added 
production and better quality of warp yarn, because added tension 
not only breaks the yarn, but takes the elasticity from it. The 
loss of elasticity is a great defect. 

Variable Motion. There are two distinct speeds to a warper: 
first, the ordinary speed at which a warper is run when all 
is straight and the yarn good; second, the slow speed. This 
change of speed is advantageous in starting up the machine ; if 
the machine is started up at full speed, the ends are likely to break 



i.\'.WV<.W\VV'.VW\V-S 





Fig. 13. 

out. Also, when the faller rod is down and there is some slack 
yarn to be taken up, the machme should be run slowly until the 
yarn is tightened and the ends are traveling straight from the 
spool. The slow motion is obtained as follows : an additional 
pulley (see Fig. 13) is placed on the driving shaft, between the 
ordinary fast and loose pulley. This intermediate pulley has an 
extended sleeve attached to it. A 21-tooth gear is fixed on the 
sleeve, and meshes with a 72-tooth gear; on the same stud with 
the 72 is another 21, but attached to the 72. The second 21 im- 
parts motion to another 72-tooth gear, which is loose on the sleeve 
of the slow pulley. A ratchet is fixed on the end of the driving 
shaft ; there is also a pawl attached to the face of the last 72- 
tooth gear. When the belt is on the slow-motion pulley, motion 
is imparted to the 21 gear, which is fixed on the sleeve of the pulley, 



25 



WARP PREPARATIOK. 



from this 21 into tlie 72, from this 72, through the 21 connected 
to ifec, into the second 72, and as that is turned, the pawl engages 
in the teeth of the ratchet, and in this way turns the driving 
shaft. 

Measuring Motion. This is a combination motion for Beam 
and Ball warper, and the calculation for one will apply to both. 

The simplest method of calculating the velocity ratio of a 
train of gears is to multiply the drivers together, the drivens 
together, divide the one in the other, and the quotient will be the 
answer required. 

The motion is as follows : the measuring roll is 1 2 inches in 
circumference ; on the end of this roll is a single worm, 
driving a 48 gear. Attached to this is a 16 gear, imparting 
motion to a carrier gear of 47 teeth; this drives a 50-tooth gear, 
which is the cut gear. Attached to the cut gear is a 16-tooth gear 
driving a 64 gear, which also has a 16 gear attached to it; this 
imparts motion to the leese gear, which has 80 teeth. The carrier 
gear is left out of the calculation. 
Cut Gear. Leese Gear. 

48. X 50 X 64 X 80 



1 X 16 X 16 X 16 

Worm. 



= 3,000 feet = 1,000 yards. 



The above train of gears will give 1,000 yards. The 1 rep- 
resents 1 revolution of the worm, which is also 1 revolution of 
the measuring roll, and that being 12 inches in circumference will 
mean that 12 inches of yarn has been placed on the beam during 
1 revolution of the worm, or 1 tooth of the first 48 gear. 
This train of gears will measure 3,000 feet of yarn or 1,000 yards. 
When the leese gear has made 1 revolution, the measuring roll 
has made 3,000 revolutions, and being 12 inches in circumference, 
3,000 revolutions will equal 1,000 yards. The number of teeth 
in the cut gear A corresponds to the number of yards in a cut; 
therefore, if this gear contains 50 teeth, the number of yards in 
each cut will be 50. Three teeth oil the 48 gear equal one yard: 
48 -^ 16 := 3, the motion having been reduced three times before 
it is imparted to the cut gear ; thus it is that 1 tooth on this 
gear means that 1 yard of yarn has passed on to the beam. B 
is the leese geiar which determines the number of yards in a leese, 



26 



WARP PREPARATION. 



19 



or the number of yards in the whole wrap. By the substituting 
of the 64 gear below the cut gear the ratio will be equal to 4 to 1. 
Thus the number of teeth in the gear B will be 4 times greater 
than the number of cuts in the leese. 

Example. We require 1,000 yards of j^arn on the beam, and 
there are 50 yards in a cut, so that v.'e shall have 20 cuts in the 
warp. Four times the number of cuts in the warp will be the 
gear; 20 X 4 r= 80 gear. 





Fig. 14. 

The hub of the leese gear is cut in the form of a worm, with 
a slot in it, and at every turn of the hub a catch point on a small 
lever drops in the slot. This lever is connected with the shipper 
rod, so that when the machine is stopped a bell is rung. If more 
than 1,000 yards are required, say 3,000 or 4,000, then 3 or 4 
turns of the hub will give the required number of yards. The 
gears can be changed to give a longer length of yarn before 
the machine stops, and any number of yards can be placed on the 
beam. 

It is often necessary to change both cut and leese gear when 



27 



20 WARP PREPARATION. 

an odCi number of yards are required, and the following rule will 
give the gears necessary for the required length : 

First divide the total number of yards into wraps or leeses, 
tiiat is, several turns of the hub of the leese gear, tlius bringing 
die number of 3^ards within the range of the motion. Having 
obtained the number of yards in one wrap or leese, the gears must 
be chosen to produce this number of yards. First find the cut 
gear, which must be between 20 and 80, as this is the range of 
gears that can be placed on the stud. Divide the number of yards 
in the leese by any number between 5 and 20 that will give as a 
result a gear between 20 and 80 ; the number divided by v*-ill 
be the number of cuts in a leese ; multiply this by 4, and the 
result will be the number of teeth in the leese gear. 

Example. Give the necessary gears for a warp of 5,760 yards. 

-^1^^ =z60 = Cut Gear. 16 X 4 = 64 = Leese Gear. 

6 X 16 

We divided the total by 6, thus giving us 6 turns of the hub 

and 960 yards in each wrap. We further divided the 960 by 16, 

which gave us a 60-cut gear, meaning 16 cuts with 60 yards in each 

cut ; we then multiplied the number of cuts by 4, and obtained a 

644eese gear. 

In the train of gears first take out the cut and the leese gears 

and insert the ones obtained above. 

48 X 60 X 64 X 64 ^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^ 

1 X 16 X 1-6 X 16 ^ 

960 X Q = 5,760 yards. 

Example. What gears are required for a small warp of 900 

yards ? One wrap or leese will be sufficient. 

48 X 75 X 64 X 48 « ^aa n ^ nnn i 
_ ^^ — = 2,700 feet = 900 yards. 

1 X 16 X 16 X 16 ^ 

The beams that are used on the warper are back beams for 
the slasher, and the number of spools that are placed in the warper 
creel determines the number of back beams required for the 
slasher, and from which the warp for the loom is made. The 
number of ends required for the warp when ready for the loom is 
several times more than the number of ends that the warper creel 
will hold. 



28 



WARP PREPARATION. 



21 



Example. If a warp of 2,500 ends is required, how many 
spools must be placed in the creel and how many back beams made 
for the slasher? The capacity of the creel is 530 ends. We 
leave out the 30 ends and run 5 back beams of 500 ejids each. 
This is a better division than 4 beams of 530 ends each, making a 
total of 2,120 ends ; for in order to place on a beam the remaining 
380 ends, the exjjansion combs must be altered, the drop wires 
taken out, or tied up, and several other changes made. In addi- 
tion, the warp in passing through the slasher would not be as even 
as when all the back beams were equal, for then there is one equal 
layer upon another. Before discussing the slasher we will explahi 
the Long -and Short Chain systems of dressing. 





r— 


i II 






1 1 






i .11 




D 


r- 


i 1 


D 


i II 






' II 






i II 






1 II 





Fio-. 15. 

Expansion Drum. In mills where a g]-eat variety of goods 
is made, both as regards quality and widths, it is desirable 
to ha,ve a changeable drum on the warper. It saves cost in the 
number of warpers, and also overcomes the difficulty that often 
results from having the back beams too wide. We know that 
some do not concede this point, but m well-equipped fine mills it 
is not uncommon to have several widths of warpers, so that when 
making a warp that is narrower than usual, it is run on the narrow 
warper. This is a great advantage, because the straighter the 
yarn runs through the slasher, from creel to loom beam, the better 
are the side ends run on the loom beam. A little extra width 
should be allowed at the creel for the size to penetrate into the 
yarn when passing through the size box. The drum can also be 
used very profitably in the warping of cord warps ; that is, warps 
used for adding a cord stripe to the cloth and also for leno cord 
warps. 

The drum can be made of strips of wood of about 3 inches 
in width, 1 inch in thickness, allowing the alternate strips ot each 



29 



22 WARP PREPARATION. 

half to be a little longer than the others, so that the extended 
strip from one side will fit into the shorter one on the other side. 
(See Fig. 15.) By this arrangement these strips can be extended 
or narrowed to suit the width of the beam, and each half screwed 
on the driving shaft. 

EXAflPLES FOR PRACTICE. 

1. A main shaft runs 250 revolutions per minute; there is a 
7-inch pulley on this shaft, and a 10-inch pulley on the machine; 
the drum is 6 inches in diameter, and the whirl on the spindle is 
1| inch. What is tlie speed of spindle ? 

Ans. 763.63 revolutions. 

2. A main shaft runs 270 revolutions per minute. Diameter 
of the drum on spooler is 6 inches, pulley on spooler 8 inches, diam- 
eter of whirl li inches. In order that the spindle shall run 972 
revolutions per minute, what size pulley would be required on the 
main shaft? Ans. 6-inch pulley. 

8. A warp of 4,500 yards is required. The cuts are to be 
50 yards in length ; what gears are required to give the requisite 
number of yards ? . j 50 cut gear. 



72 leese gear. 

4. What are the gears required to produce a warp of 8,400 
yards in length? . ^60 cut gear 



80 leese gear. 

COLORED WARPS. 

Long Chain. Colored yarns, apart from the dye vat, must 
pass througli an extra beaming process before they reach the 
slasher. In the long-chain system, instead of placing the ends on 
a back beam for the slasher, as described in the last process, they 
are drawn from the warper in the form of a ball or chain, and are 
then conveyed to the dye vat. After this process the chain is 
beamed on a long-chain beamer, the beam being carried to the 
slasher, where the yarn is sized and placed on the loom beam. 
These chains are from eight hundred to several thousand yards in 
length, more often the latter. 

Balling riachine. This machine (Fig. 16) is similar to the 
beam warper up to the front expansion comb. At this point a 
leese reed takes the place of the comb. 



30 



WARP PREPARATION. 



23 



Leese Reed. The leese reed wires have a hole cut in them • 
a thread passes through the hole and one between the wires Thus 
while each alternate thread is through a hole in the wire the rest 




"""j''''""m0^ 






are between the wires. This reed (Fig. 17) is for the purpose of 
placnig a leese m the threads, which keeps each thread separate and 
prevents tangled warps. The leeses are placed in the yarn at vari 



lOUS 



81 




24 WARP PREPARATION. 

distances, according to the number of yards required, generally 
from 500 to 1,000 yards each. It is absolutely necessary that the 
ieeses be placed in the yarn at the required distances. However, 
tangled warps are sometimes caused by carelessness on the part of 
the dyer, even if the Ieeses are carefully placed. 

Another advantage in having the Ieeses in the yarn is that if 
a number of ends are broken during the beaming process, the 
threads can be pieced up in the best possible manner; when 
the next leese comes along, every thread can be straightened and 
the warp made as good and straight as when first beamed. 

From the leese comb the 3'arn passes 
through a trumpet which acts as a con- 
denser. This trumpet is placed on a stand 
that supports a pulley, around which the 
yarn passes. The pulley is about 10 or 12 
feet from the warper, to allow the gradual 
■p. jY condensing of the yarn into a small space 

before it winds around the ball. From 
the pulley the yarn passes back to the warper. The balling 
mechanism is placed where the driving drum is usually found 
on the beam warper. The balling mechanism is driven from 
the same source as the drum ; the ball roller resting between the 
driving drums and receiving motion from them. 

Traverse Guide. The yarn is guided on to the ball roller by 
means of a trumpet slide, whose base runs in the slot of an end- 
less worm, with right and left thread, which guides the trumpet 
right to left, then left to right. Fig. 18 shows clearly the 
construction of the machine. 

Overhead Bailer. There is also the overhead bailer (Fig. 
19), which is considered a good machine. Less space is required 
for this machine than for the first one. Instead of passing straight 
from the machine to the condenser trumpet, the yarn passes down 
and under a platform, around a roller and up over the condenser 
pulley, then down to the beamer. This method allows the opera- 
tive to stand close to the work and more easily attend to the 
broken ends. When the ball has attained the required length, it 
is taken to the dye vat. The yarn passes through the vat in 



§8 



WARP PREPARATION. 



25 



chain form and is then put through the drying process. It is then 
veady for the beamer. 




" iniiLLi.ii, h 



Winding Machine. In spite of all the care that a dyer can 
take while the chain is passing through the vat, an occasional 
tangled warp can scarcely be prevented. To overcome this defect 



33 



26 



WARP PREPARATION. 



the winding machine (see Fig. 20) has been invented. This 
wraps a cord of sufficient strength around the chain, and after the 
yarn has been dyed the cord is taken off. This machine has been 
the means of reducing tangled warps at least 50 per cent, which, 
in consequence, greatly improves the quality of the warp. 




Fig. 19. 

The creel of the ball warper is generally made to hold from 
500 to 1,400 spools. If desired, the makers construct larger 
machines, but the best results are obtained by using a machine 
holding a medium number. These can be more readily handled 
in the several processes through which the chain passes, and are 
also more economical from the warper standpoint. 

Double Screw. Chain warpers are also built with a double 
screw, so that two balls of a small number of ends can be made 



34 



WARP PREPARATION. 



27 



at the same time. This is shown in Fig. 21. It is especially 
valuable when a small, number of ends of different colors are 
required. 

The ordinary beam warper can be changed into a ball 
warper ; the appliances necessary for constructing the ball being 
additional parts. 



A" ""A 




BOILINB-BOX I 

'a ,: :;!!"© / 

-(Siivrm s} 




fWK^-^- 



I Wf/VDWG 
I SrmNG ON I 
'' CHAtN 




Fig. 20. 

Chain Separator. This is a necessity in the colored mills, 
and is for the purpose of dividing a chain into several parts. For 
example, 100 ends are required, and there are 500 ends in the 
chain ; the whole chain is passed through the separator, the ends 
required being counted off (the leese being retained in both sec- 




Fig. 21. 

tions), after which the yarn is allowed to fall into a box provided 
for the purpose. It is then carried to the back of the long-chain 
beamer. When a mill is equipped with a chain separator, several 
chains having a small number of ends can be run together through 
the dye vats. This is desirable when the warper creels are small 
and the standard patterns are narrow. 

Linker. For the purpose of shortening the length of a chain 



35 



28 



WARP PREPARATION. 




"iliinliTiiT 




m 



WARP PREPARATION. 29 

that is to be bleached, this very ingenious machine has been made. 
It effects a great saving, not only by preventing tangles, but by 
increasing the amount of yarn that can be handled in a given time. 
Long-Chain Beamer. After the yarn is dyed it must be 
beamed on the back beams for the slasher, so that the sizing com- 
pound can be added. The ball of colored yarn is placed under a 
wood eyelet suspended from the ceiling. Tln-ough this eyelet the 
yarn passes to the bottom of the friction drums, and these, as the 
name implies, add friction or tension to the yarn while it is being 
placed on the beam. The friction on the yarn is increased by 
wrapping it a greater number of times around the drums. From 
tlie drums the yarn passes around a wooden roller at the foot of 
the beamer, then back to an iron pulley on the top of the drums 
and through the swinging comb, then through the expansion comb, 
and finally to the beam. The drums should be at least 20 feet 
from the beamer ; the longer the space up to a certain point the 
better the results. By having the drums this distance from 
the beamer the yarn is well opened out before it reaches the 
swinging comb. A long-chain beamer is shown in Fig. 22. 

Expansion Comb. The purpose of the leese is now shown; 
the beamer tender is enabled to lay the threads side by side in the 
expansion comb. They must be distributed as equally as possible, 
for two or three extra ends in one dent make a ridge on the 
beam. This means added circumference to the yarn, and causes 
those threads to be broken or unduly strained. 

Swinging Comb. After the yarn is placed in the expansion 
comb and widened out to fill the space equally between the beam 
heads, the operative applies the power to the beamer by means of 
a foot-board, which is connected to the friction pulley. The 
speed of the beamer can be varied by the changing of a clutch 
gear. In operating, the tender has one foot on the shipper-board, 
in order to apply or disconnect the power, and one hand on the 
swinging comb, moving the comb backward and forward. If a 
snarl appears in the yarn it is readily detected, for it will pull on 
the comb. The operative immediately stops the machine. The 
colored yarn beams are taken to the slasher from this machine. 

The QuiUer. The purpose of this machine is to transfer 
colored yarns from the chain to the bobbin or quill, either for the 



87 



30 



WARP PREPARATION. 



shuttle or for export. The quiller has friction drums placed about 
the same distance off as are those of the beamer.; there is also a 
swinging comb. The yarn passes from the comb over guide rods 
to some 9 or 10 rows of bobbins, placed on upright spindles. 
There is also a guide or builder rail for each row of bobbins. The 
spindles are driven in a similar manner as are the sj)ooler spindles, 
and the builder rail is controlled by a heart-shaped cam. This is 
a valuable machine, more especially for the heavier counts of yarn, 
as it builds a very perfect bobbin. (See Fig. 23.} 




Fig. 23. 

Short Chain. The difference between Long and Short chain 
is as follows : the short chain, varying from 400 to 800 yards in 
length, when received from the dye vat, is drawn through a sizing 
trough and sized in bulk, and then placed on the loom beam, 
instead of being beamed and then sized on the slasher. It is a 
more costly process than the long chain, and the results are not 
as good unless the yarn is brushed during the beaming process. 

Brushing lays the fibers, and the resulting rounded yarn will 
then weave a nearly perfect cloth. This method is used in making 
fine chambiays. This is unlike the old-fashioned hand-dressing, 



88 



WARP PREPARATION. 



31 



where the beam and creel were far apart, the dresser applying cold 
size with long flat brushes ; the yarn being brushed on both sides 
and wound on the beam. In the short-chain system (used for 
fine colored yarns, where cost is secondary) when hand brushing, 
the dresser draws two long hand brushes over the yarn from the 
beam to the creel, while the yarn is run over on the beam. The 
yarn passes from the ball around the friction rolls, over the split 




Fig. 24. 

rods, through the comb on to the beam. The adding of a brush 
to the slasher performs the work in almost as finished a manner 
as hand-dressing, besides producing more warp in the same time. 
Fig. 24 shows a hand or short-chain dressing machine. 

THE SLASHER. 

In this machine the sizing compound is placed on the warp 
yarn, thus strengthening the yarn and laying the fibers. When 
sized, the yarn is better able to stand the oscillations of the reed 
during the weaving process. Weight may also be added to the 
yarn in this machine by means of the sizing compound. It is 
necessary to size all ordinary single yarns, but ply yarns very 
seldom require this unless heavily sleyed, that is, made into a 
fabric having a large number of threads and picks per inch. In 
making fine grades of goods having a large number of picks, 



39 



32 



WARP PREPARATION. 



the yarn should be stronger and greater skill displayed in sizing 

the warps. A point to be em- 
phasized is that one-half the 
weaving is practically done in 
the preparing room, for no 
amount of skill expended after- 
wards will produce good results 
from a poorly sized warp. The 
weaver is often blamed for not 
producing quantity and quality, 
although the fault lies with the 
preparers. If the slasher fender 
allows his machine to stop for 
an undue length of time, so that 
the yarn is burned a little, or 
the size is caked on the yarn, or 
if he carelessly allows the size 
to become thin, it is impossible 
to expect good results from the 
warp. It pays to have skilled 
labor in a dressing I'oom. 

Creels. There are two kinds 
of creels for slashers, the up- 
right and the horizontal. Both 
are for the purpose of holding 
the back beams. The upright 
creel saves floor space, as the 
beams are placed one above the 
other. The horizontal stretches 
out behind the machine, and the 
beams are placed one behind the- 
other. The latter is considered 
the better, as the attendant can 
get at the beams more readily. 
Sometimes there is a slight differ- 
ence in the width of back beams ; 
when such is the case, the 




widest beam must of necessity be placed nearest the machine, and 



40 



WARP PREPARATION. 



as 



the narrowest farthest from the machine. If this is not done, the 
ends from the widest pass outside the flanges of the narrowest 
beam, or crowd as they pass through the squeeze rolls, thus lifting* 
the rolls, and preventing the rest of the warp from being thoroughly 
squeezed. (See Figs. 26 and 27.) 

Size Box. The yarn passes from the creel over an iron 
roller into the size box. There are two kinds of size boxes, the 




Fio-. 26. 



plain and jacketed. The plain box is the one in which the size is 
heated and boiled by means of a perforated pipe that is in the box. 
This pipe discharges the steam into the size. 

The jacketed size box has a steam chamber under and around 




Fig. 27. 

it, so that the size can be heated without steam being discharged 
into the mixture. This jacketed size box also has a perforated 
pipe inside, so that either method can be used. 



41 



34 



WARP PREPARATION. 



Botli the above systems have their advantages. It is claimed 
that with the jacketed vat there is no possibility of steam getting 
into the size and thereby weakening it. Careless slasher tenders 
often allow the size to become weak, thus causing soft-dressed 
warps. Those who prefer the perforated pipe say that so little 
condensed steam enters the size, it is not weakened to any injuri- 
ous extent ; that the size can be boiled ten or fifteen minutes 

m 




Fig. 28. (See also Fig. 38.) 

quicker than with the jacketed vat, thus effecting a considerable 
saving; and that the size vat can be more readily cleansed. See 
Fig. 28. 

Immersion Roller. The yarn passes under an immersion 
roller, which is made of copper and arranged so that it can be 
raised or lowered, according to the amount of size desired on the 
yarn. If the roller is low in the vat, thereby having more of its 
surface in the size, it will take longer for the yarn to pass through 
the size, and it will absorb more. 



42 



WARP PREPARATION. 35 

Squeeze Rolls. The yarn on leaving the size box passes 
through two sets of squeeze rolls. There are some instances 
Avhere only one set of rolls is used, but this method does not give 
good results, even with fine yarn, while with coarse yarn the 
results are very poor. The two lower rolls of each set are copper ; 
the roll on the top of each copper roll is solid iron. The solid 
rolls should be covered with an especially prepared flannel cloth, 
which is almost a felt. These coverings should be taken off once 
every week and allowed to soak in water for a day or two, from 
Satui-day until Monday morning, for instance. Flannel cloths 
make the best coverings, because they allow the yarn to sink into 
the cloth to a slight extent, whereas cotton cloths become hard 
and glazed with the size, and not only tend to flatten the yarn, 
Joiit cause it to be drawn through the rolls before it is thoroughly 
squeezed of unnecessary size. It is beneficial, also, to wash the 
rolls every time the machine is stopped, that is, at noontime and 
evening. A good way to do this is to take the regulation water- 
ing can, and pour the water on the rolls while the machine is 
running for the last two or three turns. 

Tliese are simple matters, but they make the slasher tender 
more efficient. 

Two sets of squeeze rolls are advantageous because the second 
set act as finishers, and yield a cleaner yarn. The machine can 
be run at a little higher speed, because there is less chance of 
excessive size adhering to the yarn. The yarn will also be dryer 
as it reaches the loom beam, because there has been less size to 
dry. See Fig. 25. 

Cylinders. From the squeeze rolls the yarn passes around 
the cylinder or cylinders. Opinions vary as to whether one cylin- 
der or two give the best results. As the purpose of the cylinder 
is to dry the yarn after it has been sized, it is claimed by some 
that by the use of two cylinders, owing to the increased drying 
space, there is a better chance for this to be accomplished. For 
coarse counts of yarn, all the drying space that can be obtained is 
necessary, or the result is a damp warp, which tends to mildew if 
kept in stock for any length: of time. There are others who prefer 
one large cylinder, on account of less parts to look after ; but space 
in the mill is to a great extent the deciding point. 



43 



36 



WARP PREPARATION. 




The cylinders are of various 
sizes, the double cylinders being 
8 and 6 feet in diameter, 7 and 
5 feet, 6 and 4 feet; the single 
cylinder from 8 to 12 feet in 
diameter, the width being deter- 
mined by demand. For general 
fine work the single cylinder is 
usually considered better. The 
cylinders are heated by exhaust 
steam or live steam from the 
boiler; as both methods give 
good results, the cost usually 
decides this point. See Fig. 29. 

Reducing Valve. In addi- 
tion to a gage, a reducing valve 
is usually attached to a slasher. 
When the steam comes directly 
from the boilers it is generally 
necessary to reduce the pressure 
before entering the cylinder. 
The pressure in the cylinder 
varies from 4 to 10 pounds ; 6 
pounds is the average pressure 
used. Warps of comparatively 
few ends might require even less 
than this, owing to the small 
amount of dampness on the 
cylinder. With a heavy yarn of 
a greater number of ends a larger 
amount of steam is necessary. 
A greater pressure is also desir- 
able when the yarn is heavily 
weighted; that is, loaded with 
heavy size, as will be explained 
later. See Fig. 31. 

Steam Trap. A trap is 
attached to the steam outlet, and 



44 



WARP PREPARATIOH. 



87 



should work j^erfectly to prevent the loss of steam. If the slasher 
is run at higli speed, more steam will be used to thoroughly dry the 





1 

eXHAUST'^ 


! '5 

IS 


< '' SJ 




1 













JZOWZ^T 



Fig. 30. 

yarn than is necessary with ordinary speed. A few more yards of ■ 
warp can be sized and dried if this extra steam is used, but it is 
not economical to gain even a warp in two or three days at the 
expense of greater cost. The inside of the cylinder is fitted with 
drip pans, which catch the condensed steam and convey it to the 
outlet. There are generally three of these pans fixed at equal 
distances apart, and extend- 
ing the full width of the 
cylinder. They have a 
slight incline, and pipes in 
the form of tlie letter S 
running from the lower end 
convey the water to the 
outlet. (See Fig. 32.) 

Vacuum Valve. The 

cylinders are also fitted with 
a vacuum valve, and fre- 
quently the slasher tender 
has serious trouble by 
neglecting it. Sometimes 
this valve becomes fouled, 
and the cylinder collapses; 
for if the valve does not 
allow air to enter the 
cylinder after the steam is shut off, a vacuum is formed and 
the thin copper sheeting is not capable of resisting the external 
pressure. 




45 



38 



WARP PREPARATIOK. 



5^ 








^^ 




1^ 






,C0Q3 




W 


CO 


r 


CCk. 


^Vs. 


iab 






/'Jr ^X 


fH 



46 



WARP PREPARATION. 



39 



Gear Drive. It is becoming a recognized fact that to. have' 
the best results, namely, elasticity in the yarn, and less breakage, 
the cylinder should be fitted with a gear drive, so that it will be 
driven at the same' speed as the rest of the machine, but without 
gaining its motion from the pull of the yarn, as is common in 
some mills. The elasticity of the yarn should be preserved, so far 





Fig. 32. 

as is possible, in every process through which it passes. Yarn that 
has been properly handled is brighter, of greater value, and weaves 
better because it yields somewhat to the strain put upon it. Fig. 33. 

The Fan. This is an essential feature of the slasher, and as 
it is a preventative of greater steam pressure it should not be lost 
sight of. The fan helps to dry the yarn as it passes around it, 
and also blows away the steam that issues from the drying yarn. 
Without the fan, or with it stopped, the steam follows the yarn^ 
which is likely to be damp Avhen it reaches the loom beam. The 
yarn passes from the cylinder, around the fan and up over the 
measuring roll, as will be explained later. 

Split Rods. From the measuring roll the yarn passes around 



47 



40 



WARP PREPARATION. 



the split or .separating rods. The purpose of these rods is to 
separate the threads before they pass on to the beam. After 

being sized, the ends cling together, 
and it is necessary to separate them, 
otherwise the weaver will have 
difficulty in weaving the warp, 
because of the ends clinging to- 
gether. The number of rods is 
determined by the number of back 
beams, one rod less than the num- 
ber of beams ; thus with 6 beams 
5 rods are required. The rod near- 
est the cylinder is the largest, and 
divides the ends as nearly as 
possible into two equal parts. A 
glance at the sketch. Fig. 33, will 
show the method of placing the 
tapes for the dividing rods. No. 1 
is the thick rod set nearest the 
cylinder ; No. 3 is the first thin rod 
on the top ; No. 2, first thin rod at 
the bottom ; No. 4, second thin 
rod on the bottom. The above is 
the order of laying in the tapes 
after a set has been started, No. 
1 tape passing through the size 
box first, the rest following in the 
order given. This order is changed 
when starting up a new set of 
beams, as explained later. A care- 
ful slasher tender will often place 
the tapes in the yarn, because they 
keep the threads straight, and 
better weaving is the result. From 
the split rods the yarn passes 
through ail expansion comb, over a solid iron roller, around the 
tension roller, over a second solid roll, and on to the beam. This 







48 



WARP preparation;!. 41 

expansion comb is the same as that on the warper, and has a 
ratchet at the end which can be driven by a pawl from the driving 
shaft. If there are several cuts on the back beams after the loom 
beam has been filled to the edge of the flanges, instead of making 
a small warp, which is as expensive as a large one, in the drawing- 
in or twisting process, the width of the comb is gradually decreased 
by means of the ratchet, and the extra cuts are placed on the full 
beam without damage to the yarn. The extra length of warp is 
built up in a narrower space at every turn of the beam. This 
manner of disposing of warp cannot be practised if the cloth is to 
be made in a short time, as small warps are then run in order to 
fill more looms. (Fig. 34.) 

Tension Roll, The tension roll, as its name implies, adds to 
the tension of the yarn; the larger the number of ends, the greater 
the tension required. The tension is obtained by wrapping layers 
of cloth around the roller, for by increasing the circumference the 
tension is increased. 

Beam Drive. The beam is driven by friction, and the tender 
should use good judgment in the amount of friction applied. Too 
much friction tends to strain the yarn, and breaks many ends; 
while insufiicient friction makes a soft beam, which is a cause of 
uneven cloth, the warp not weaving as well as when firmly made. 
The "head drive is furnished with a hand wheel, so that the amount 
of friction can be readily changed. The amount applied is a trifle 
more than is actually necessary to take up the yarn delivered from 
the tension roll ; this tends to make a tight warp without undue 
strain on the yarn. Failing to attend to this is often the cause of 
burnt yarn, also stiff or oversized warps, because the yarn is on 
the cylinder or in the size box too long. (See Fig. 35.) 

Press Roll. Some slasher tenders allow the machine to run 
for a short time on a new warp before the press roll has been 
placed in position. This often causes a poor section of warp near 
the bottom of the beam. The same defect is found if the regu- 
lation of the friction is delayed too long. On account of this care- 
less work, the warp yarn is run loosely on the beam, thus forming 
several soft layers. The next few layers sink into these soft 
layers, and owing to this, warps have had to be cut out and used 
for piece threads. A roll that is very valuable is known as the 



42 



WARP PREPARATION. 



extending press roll. This is so arranged that it can be used for 
beams of several different widths, thus ensuring an even warp. 
When the one-piece roll is used, it often happens that it does not fit 
between the beam flanges, but leaves a small space on one side. If 
such is the case, the selvedge threads are not pressed on that side, 
and therefore build up higher than the rest of the yarn. Before 
the beam is filled, these side ends are built up to the edge of the 
flange, and the warp must be doffed then, or the threads may be 
slipped over the flange. They are then likely to become tangled 
and broken, and afterward the selvedge will never weave properly. 



TURN HAND WH5£L IN D/RECT/ON OF 
ARROW T O T/GH TEN FR/CT/ON 



FR/CT/ON L OOSE ON SHAFT 




HAND W/iEEL-^ 

SCREW 
TO KEEP Bi/Sfy/Nt^j 
FROM TURNINGS 



§USH/NG- 




RUBBER FRfCT/ON PLATE 
KEYED ON ARBOR, BUT FREE 
TO MO\/E ENOW /SB 



Fig. 35. 



The press roll is placed below the beam and is supported 
on two lever arms, which can be raised or lowered to suit the 
beam. The weights placad on a lever connected to the sup- 
porting shaft are regulated to suit the pressure required on the 
press roll. 

Cone Drive. In addition to the regular straight drive for the 
slasher," two cone pulleys are placed on the inside of the machine 
near the head, and the speed can be increased or diminished by 
means of a traveling shipper placed on a worm. The speed is 
gradually decreased as the warp increases in size, for if this is not 
attended to, the yarn travels at too great a speed through the size, 



50 



WARP PREPARATION. 43 



and a poor warp is the result. If a very heavy warp is 
being sized, the speed can be reduced by means' of this drive, so 
that the yarn has a longer time to dry as it passes around the 
cylinder. 

Slow Motion. There is also a slow-motion drive, fixed on the 
same principles as that on the warper. This is generally used 
when putting in the split rods and also when cutting off laps. 
Laps are ends that have broken and wrapped around the back 
beams or the squeeze rolls. 

Calculations for fleasuring Roll and Bell Gear. In order to 
show the weaver where to cut the cloth when it is woven, cut 
marks are placed at equal distances on the yarn as it leaves the 
size box. A marker passes through a reservoir in which a certain 
color of aniline ink has been placed. This marker is connected 
directly with the measuring motion and the clock. The particular 
gear that imparts motion to the marker is called the bell gear, 
because it causes a bell to ring when the marker prints the colored 
line on the yarn. The clock connected with this motion denotes 
the number of cuts placed on the beam. The stud gear is on an 
extended stud, and between the gear and the nut on the end of 
the stud is a spiral spring. The spring keeps the gear in mesh 
with the train, but when a warp is finished and it is desired to 
turn the motion back on the cut marker, it can be done Mdthout 
turning the measuring roller, as this would tender the yarn that 
was around the roller. The setting of the motion is accomplished 
after drawing out the stud gear on the extended stud. 

Rule. Multiply the circumference of the measuring roll in 
inches by the stud gear times the bell gear, and divide the product 
by 36 inches, which gives a constant number, and that number 
divided by the yards required will give the change gear. 

Suppose the circumference of the measuring roll is 18 inches, 
the stud gear contains 80 teeth, bell gear 50, change gear on the 
end of measuring roll 40. This combination of gears gives 50 
yards per cut. 

To find the stud gear required to give an odd number of 
yards, proceed as follows : with a 40-tooth change gear each 8 
teeth on the stud gear will give 5 yards, so that changing the stud 



51 



44 WARP PREPARATION. 

gear for one with. 72 or 88 teeth will give 45 or 55 yards to a cut. 
Example, using the above rule to find a standard number. 

Circum. Stud Bell 

of Roll. Gear. Gear. 

^S X SO X 50 ^ ^ (,^„^^^^^ 

36 



Inches. 

2,000 



= 50 yards per cut. 



40 

Change Gear. 

The stud gear is often changed to get an odd number of 
yards, but the same rule is followed. 

By changing the stud gear to 72, thus having the following 
train of gears, 72 stud gear, 50 bell, 18 inches circumference of 
roll, a standard is obtained of 1,800 yards. This standard gives a 
wider range than the first standard of 2,000. We can obtain 50 
yards with a 36 change gear, or 36 yards with a 50 gear. Also 60 
yards with a 30 gear, or 30 yards with a 60 gear. The smaller 
the change gear, the greater the number of yards in a cut. The 
larger the gear, the smaller the number of j^ards. 

Circum. Stud Bell 

of Boll. Gear. Gear. 

— '^ I^ ^ — = 1,800 = Standard Number. 

36 

Inches. 



Constant. 

1,800 



50 yards per cut. 



36 

Change Gear. 

Aniline inks are used for making cut marks because they 
retain their brilliancy and do not stain the cylinder to any great 
extent. (See Fig. 36.) 

SIZING. 

Sizing is the immersion of the yarn in a prepared size mix- 
ture. The ingredients of this mixture are boiled and placed in a 
size box ; as the yarn is drawn through the box, the size adheres 
to it. This is an essential feature in warp preparation, for how- 
ever good the yarn, or however carefully the preceding processes 
may have been carried out, poor results follow neglect in sizing. 
Thought must be given to the quality and quantity of the ingre- 



^2 



WARP PREPARATION. 



45 



clients that form the size for the various kinds of yarn and the 
resulting fabrics. At the present time there is not as much skill 
required of the slasher tender as formerly in this work, because of 
the numerous patented mixtures. A careful overseer, however, 
who desires to know what he is using, will study the component 
parts that form a good size. This often results in economy, for 
local needs are best known by a "\yide-awak,e man. As already 




Fig. 36. 

stated, single yarns must be sized in order to strengthen them. 
Insufhcient size makes soft warps, which require very delicate 
treatment from the weaver, and which frequently cannot be 
woven ; this also applies to a stiff warp, or one that has too much 
size on it. A slasher tender can so accustom his fingers to the 
feel of the yarn that he can readily tell the strength of the size. 
The machine should not be entirely stopped unless absolutely neces- 
sary, because stopping causes the size to cake on the yarn. This 
must be brushed off when the yarn is passing on to the beam. 



03 



46 WARP PREPARATION. 

A soft yarn results from brushing, and many ends break as they 
near the split rods. Unless the stiff place has been repaired by 
the slasher tender the weaver has great difficulty in making good 
cloth from this part of the warp. 

In some mills the size kettle is connected to pumps, which 
pump the size into the vat. In some a rotary pump is constantly 
feeding and taking away size. Both of these features are excel- 
lent. In other places the size is in a kettle placed above the 
machine, and the simple opening of a faucet releases it when 
required. Again, in some mills the size is carried in pails from 
the kettle to the vat. In the latter case when pouring the size 
into the box, unless care is taken, lumps are sure to adhere to the 
yarn, with the result already described. There have been cases in 
•which tenders who were running tablecloth warps poured the size 
on the squeeze rolls, without a thought or care ; and as brushes 
were not used, great blotches of size were caked on the yarn, and 
some of the warps were thrown away. 

The careful tender must see that the size does not get above 
the boiling point, for he knows that if it does the size will sputter, 
and little blebs or patches will appear on the yarn when it goes 
on the beam. 

There are three distinct degrees of sizing, namely : Light, 
Medium and Heavy. The first is used when a solid cotton cloth 
is desired, especially in the finer grades. It adds a small per- 
centage of weight to the yarn and strengthens it for the weaving 
pi-ocess. In many cases almost all is washed oat after it is woven. 
The second adds from 10 to 20 per cent of weight to the cloth. 
The third is not often used. A skilled size mixer is able to 
make a preparation that will deceive even experts when handling 
the cloth; he may readily believe that the cloth is not weighted 
beyond what appears to be the lightest size, when the cloth in 
question contains weighting ingredients to the amount of 15 per 
cent. 

Sizing ingredients are divided into several classes. 

1. strengthening compounds 

2. Softening compounds 

3. Weighting compounds 

4. Antiseptic 



54 



WARP PREPARATION. .47 

Strengthening. Potato starch or farino, dextrin or British 
gum, wheat flour, maize, sago, rice and tapioca. Potato starch is 
by far the best. 

Softening. Tallow, bone grease, cocoanut oil, palm oil, Japan 
wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, glycerin, dulcine, Irish moss and 
soap. 

Weighting. China clay, French chalk or silicate of mag- 
nesia, sulphate of magnesia or Epsom salts. 

Antiseptic. To prevent mildew. Chloride of zinc. 

Ultramarine. This blue is used for making less evident the 
yellow shade of the yarn ; the proportion is one ounce to about 
five sacks of flour. 

The value of a size is determined by its adhesive and strength- 
giving qualities. 

FORnULAS. 

Light Size. A good light size may be made up as follows : 

40 to 50 pounds of potato starch 
100 to 110 gallons of water 

2 to 3 pounds of tallow 

3 to 5 ounces of chloride of zinc 

This would add 3 to 5 per cent in weight. 

There are no patent compounds that are as good as a mixture 
of the separate ingredients named above, however much they may 
be praised. For light sizing the best ingredients should be used. 
The above have been used from a very early date as sizing com- 
pounds, and are now very generally used. 

Medium. 

100 gallons of water 
120 pounds of potato starch 
60 pounds of dexti'in 
40 pounds of Epsom salts 
60 pounds of China clay 
2>^ pounds chloride of zinc 
3 quarts bleached palm oil 

The above is for the purpose of making the cloth feel heavier 
than it would if made from pure cotton ; the cloth can also be 
produced at less cost. 

Heavy. This formula is governed by the judgment of the 
overseer, and by the requirements. It is well to add a little blue 
to each batch of size, for it takes off the yellowish tint that would 



55 



48 WARP PREPARATION. 

otherwise appear on the yarn. The fatty substances not only 
soften the yarn, but lubricate the eyes of the harnesses. 

The above formulas are general, and by adding the following 
the weight will be increased, as indicated. 

To add 10 per cent of weight : 

125 gallons of water 
88 pounds of cornstarch (Pearl) 
1/^ pounds of tallow 
2 ounces of Glauber's salts 
2 ounces aniline blue 
1 pint turpentine 
Sufficient for 216 outs of 66 yards, 1,616 ends, 22's yarn. 

To add 1 per cent weight : 

52 pounds cornstarcb 
4 pounds dressing (Scott's size) 
1 pound tallow 
\% ounces blue 
lyi ounces Glauber's salts 

1 pint turpentine 
90 gallons water 

150 cuts, 66 yards, 1,616 ends, 22's yarn. 

To add 15 per cent weight: '' 

175 gallons water 
112 pounds cornstarch 
lyi pounds tallow 

2 ounces salts 
2 ounces blue 

1 pint turpentine 
190 cuts, 55 yards, 1,700 ends, 16's yarn. 

Turpentine is considered one of the best ingredients for pre- 
venting mice or rats from eating cloth ; it is also to a small degree 
antiseptic. 

Size Kettle. There are different makes of size kettles ; the 
jacketed kettle is claimed to be the better, while the kettle with 
the perforated steam pipe has many supporters. In the latter, 
however, the size boils more quickly and shows less tendency to 
cake at the bottom of the kettle. 

A size kettle is fitted with agitators, to mix up the ingred- 
ients. These agitators are constantly moving so that the size is 
kept free from lumps ; they turn from 15 to 20 revolutions per 
minute. The more the size is agitated the thinner it becomes ; 



56 



WARP PREPARATION. 



49 



hence the time when the size is thoroughly boiled must be watched 
for. Cornstarch requires more boiling than any other ingredient, 
and the longer it is boiled the better it becomes. 

The starch is placed in tlie required amount of water, and 
agitated for 15 minutes ; when it starts to boil, tlie other ingred- 
ients are added. Flour requires a considerable amount of soaking 
before it can be profitably used, usually from seven days to three 
or four weeks. 

Colored Yarns. For about 25 or 30 counts of yarn use 100 
gallons of water, 20 pounds of 
potato starch, 5 to 6 pounds of 
stearin, 5 to 6 pounds bleached 
palm oil, 1 pound beeswax, i 
pound spermaceti, and 3 to 4 
ounces chloride of zinc. The 
wax and spermacetiassist in mak- 
ing a smooth yarn ; each alone 
of sufficient quantity would have 
a tendency to harden the yarn. 
The stearin, tallow and oil act 
as softeners. 

Bleached Goods. If the 
yarn to be sized is to be made 
into a cloth that must go through 
a bleaching process, wax should 

not be added, because the bleaching powder cannot penetrate the 
wax, and gray spots will appear on the cloth. Use 50 pounds of 
starch, 2i pounds tallow, and 100 gallons of water. Some dressers 
use soap, but it is not advisable, as it bubbles, and also requires some 
ingredient to prevent the yarn from sticking to the cylinder. The 
excellence of potato starch and its extensive use is due to the fact 
that it does not leave a harsh feeling on the cloth, or at least not 
to the extent that other starches do. For this reason it is given 
in the formulas. 

If there is any tendency for the colors to bleed or run, cold 
size should be used, made slightly thinner than usual, to prevent 
the possibility of lumps adhering to the yarn. But if the colors 
are fast, the yarn can safely be run through hot size. Occasionally 




67 



50 WARP PREPARATION. 

colored yarns are sized first, short-chain system, then run through 
the slasher over the squeeze roll at the same time that the rest of 
the yarn is passing through the size. 

Flour is used in some mills in place of potato starch on 
account of its fine adhesive qualities, but it is not extensively 
used, because of its great tendency to attract moisture, which 
causes mildew. As before stated, it must be steeped in water for 
several days before using. 

Two or more ingredients having similar properties are used 
in order to lessen the cost. It often happens that by using a 
little of a second ingredient there is a slight saving in the cost of 
the size, and yet a good result is obtained, because one helps the 
other, where alone one would probably give too much weight or 
softness to the yarn. 

SIZING COMPOUNDS. 

Vegetable. Dextrin possesses the same chemical compo- 
sition as starch; gives a haish feeling to the cloth. 

Wheat Flour, produced from wheat, should be free from color, 
bad odors and acidity. When exposed in a damp place it quickly 
mildews ; it contains a large proportion of gluten. 

Potato Starch, or Farino, from the potato. It makes a stiff 
paste. 

Maize, or Corn Flour, has great stiffening qualities ; expen- 
sive, and requires additional softening. 

Rice, not much used for gray cloths ; gives hard feeling and 
is expensive. 

Sago, from sago palm, gives very harsh feeling and requires 
but little to make size, though plenty of fatty matter to soften, 
particularly cocoanut oil, 1 ounce to 1 gallon of size. It soon 
becomes watery. 

Tapioca has little starchy matter. 

Fatty Matter. Tallow. Good tallow is white. Should be 
used in the proportion of about 8 pounds to 1 sack of flour. 

Bone G-rease, cheapest, but has a tendency to become rancid. 

Cocoanut Oil, used principally in sago sizing ; becomes rancid. 

Bleached Palm Oil, next to tallow for valuable qualities ; also 
used m sago sizing. 

Castor Oil, sometimes used with tallow. 



58 



WARP PREPARATION. 51 

Waxes. Japan and American waxes are soft, brittle, fatty- 
substances. 

Paraffin Wax is not saponifiable by alkalies ; that is, cannot 
afterwards be removed from the cloth during the bleaching process. 

Grlycerin gives a soft feeling to the cloth, especially when 
weighted with China clay. The quantity used should be limited, 
as it becomes sticky and keeps the yarn moist. 

Dulcine, a mixture of glycerin, gum and Chinese wax. 

Irish Moss contains a large amount of vegetable mucilage. 

Soaps have a tendency to make the size lumpy. 

Mineral as weight givers. China Olay, produced by the 
disintegration of feldspar ; it is "best when milk white. 

French Chalk, or /Silicate of Magnesia, has a tendency to 
discolor. 

Sulphate of Magnesia, or Epsom Salts, the best cleanser, 
permeates the yarn ; it also gives weight and should be pure. 

Sulphate of Baryta gives a harsh, hard feeling, and is better 
for finishing. 

Grlauher Salts; same as Epsom Salts. 

Chloride of Calcium, used with chloride of magnesium for 
adulteration ; must not be used alone, as it keeps the yarn moist. 

Antiseptic. Chloride of Zinc is the antiseptic most com- 
monly used, and kills the mildew germs. 

Chloride of Magnesium should not be Used in goods that are 
to be calendered. 

Silicate of Soda tends to make the clcfth tender. 

STARTING UP A NEW SET OF BEAHS. 

Measure the width between the beam heads, then place the 
widest beam in the creel nearest the machine, and the narrowest 
at the back. In the meantime raise the top squeeze rolls from 
the bottom rolls, and also raise the immersion roll in the size box. 
Draw over all the yarn from the beams to the first one, tying the 
yarn to what has been left from the last warp. As soon as the 
knots are through the rolls, lower the squeeze rolls and drop the 
immersion roll into the size. Then take the striking comb, which 
is a coarse comb made especially for the work, and fix it on the 
edge of the size box. The comb will divide the yarn into strings 
or divisions of seven or eight threads each. Run this way for two 



59 



52 



WARP PREPARATION. 



or three yards, and then take off the comb. In some mills the 
tapes for the split rods are placed between the beams before the 
machine is started, the length of yarn run through the striking 
comb being just the length from the comb to the first tape. This 
method saves two or three yards of yarn. When the yarn has 
been run through the machine until the knots come to the split 
rods and expansion comb, the purpose of the striking comb is 
evident. The rods are taken out and the comb turned down to 
allow the knots to pass over. When the divided threads come 




Fig. 38. 

along, the comb is turned up, each division of threads^being placed 
in one of its dents. This saves the tender the time of counting 
the threads that should go in each dent of the comb. If there are 
one or two threads more in one dent than in another they can be 
readily changed after the split rods are fixed. The split rods are 
now set where the tapes are, the first tape going over the first rod 
nearest the loom beam, and so on to the thick rod. After the set 
has been started, the opposite order of placing the tapes is used. 



60 



WARP PREPARATION. 53 

Now doff the last warp, secure the new beam in its phice, set the 
clock, adjust the friction head, see that the proper quantity of size 
is in the box, with the immersion roll at the right depth ; put on 
steam, set the expansion comb, and start the machine so that the 
yarn will be guided straight on to the beam. Now adjust the 
threads if there are too many in one dent. 

Brushes. For fine work slashers are often fitted with 
brushes, which are placed between the size vat and the cylinder; 
clearer brushes are also set underneath the* yarn. If brushes are 
used, the yarn produced is -the nearest approach to hand-dressed 
warp. Brushes are an important factor when the very best results 
are desired. They cannot be too strongly recommended. 

Leese Rods. When slashing colored goods, two leese rods 
in front of the expansion comb are sometimes necessary to keep 
the ends in the right place. This leese must be picked by hand. 
The usual drawing-in comb that is placed on the warp before it is 
doffed can be struck on the slasher, even though colored warps 
are being sized, the leese rods keeping the ends straight. Two 
size boxes are occasionally used in a colored-yarn slasher, one 
above the other, the top box having one set of squeeze rolls, 
the bottom box two sets. This method is more commonly used 
with a cheap dye, which has a tendency to bleed. The colored 
yarns are sized in the top box. The great objection to usmg 
two boxes is the slight difference in the tension on the yarn, for 
two sets of rolls add more tension than one set. All slashers 
should have a hood covering over the cylinder, and, if neces- 
sary, a fan to help in driving the steam away. The operatives 
do better work with this arrangement, there being less steam 
in the room. 

The production from the slasher depends greatly upon exist- 
ing conditions, so that it is almost impossible to give definite 
statements. 

Calculations for Striped Cotton Shirtings. 

Example 1. 
Counts of warp yarn 50 

Counts of filling yarn 50 
Counts of reed 42 — 2 ends in a dent = 84 ends per inch 



61 



54 WARP PREPARATION. 

Width in reed practically 30 inches, including selvedges 
Ends in warp 2,490 

Ends for selvedges 24 — 6 double ends on each side 

Total ends 2,514 

Colors of warp yarn : Light Blue, Red and Bleached. 
Filling bleached. 
Order of colors for pattern : 
60 Blue • . 

10 White 
2 Red 60 Blue per pat. X 27 = 1,620 + 60 = 1,680 Blue 
2 White 24 White per pat. X 27 = 648+24 = 672 White 
2 Red 6 Red per pat. X 27 = 162 Red 

2 White 2;514 

2 Red 
10 White 2,490 -f- 90 = 27 patterns and 60 ends over. 

90 ends in each pattern. 

To obtain an equal cloth, finish with blue stripe of 60 ends, 
so that the stripes near the selvedge on each side will be the 
same. The selvedge is white, and of the same counts as the rest 
of the warp. 

The best appearing cloths are those that have the same 
stripes at each side ; that is, if the wai-p is begun with blue it 
should be finished with blue. However, the dresser must follow 
the directions of the designer. 

The method of determining the number of ends for a warp is 
as follows : 

The width of warp in reed, the counts of reed, and the num- 
ber of ends in one dent being given, the width multiplied by counts 
of reed and by ends in one dent gives total ends in width, aside 
from selvedge. Having obtained the total number of ends, add 
the number in a pattern ; divide the total number by this, which 
will give the number of patterns in the warp. Then add to- 
gether the number of ends of each color in one pattern, and by 
multiplying the number thus obtained by the total number of pat- 
terns, the result will be the total number of ends of each color 
required for the warp. If the color and counts of yarn for the 
selvedge are the same as one of the stripes, add the number of 
selvedge threads to that color, and make the chain or spools for 



63 



WARP PREPARATION. 55 

the warp according to further instructions. If, after dividing the 
total number of ends by the ends in one pattern, there is a re- 
mainder, as in Example No. 1, make those threads of the same 
color as the threads nearest the selvedge at the beginning of the 
pattern, and arrange the ends for the waip so that the extra 
threads will be near the opposite selvedge. This will finish both 
edges of the cloth with the same color. If, after dividing by the 
number of patterns, there is not a remainder, proceed as in Ex- 
ample No. 2. ' 

Example No. 2. — A warp of the following layout is required: 
30" in reed, including selvedge; 30® reed, 2 in a dent; 7 ]3atterns 
in width, the remaining space to be made up of black selvedge 
ends. 



Red 132 X 7 = 924 

Black 52 X 7 = 364 + 48 = 412 

Green 32 X 7 = 224 

Blue 16X7 = 112 

Yellow 14X7= 98 

White 8 X 7 = _56 

1,778 total in patterns 

48 for selvedge, 24 each side 

1,826 total in warp 



Pattern 100 


Red 


8 


Blue 


10 


Black 


4 


Yellow 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


16 


Green 


10 


Red 


4 


Black 


6 


Red 


6 


Yellow 


6 


Red 


4 


Black 


10 


Red 


16 


Green 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


4- 


Yellow 


10 


Black 


8 


Blue 



254 total 
If the pattern is commenced as described, it would finish 
with 8 blue, and a broad stripe of red on the other side of the 
warp ; but by dividing the red stripe so that there are 50 to com- 
mence with and 50 for the finish of the pattern, the desired re- 
sults are obtained; that is, a broad red stripe where two pattei-ns 
are joined together, and both edges of the cloth alike. There 
would be the same number of ends in the pattern and warp as 



56 



TTARP PREPARATION. 



there would have been liad the pattern been made as first written 
down; but if the red stripe were not divided, a number of red 
threads would have to. be. added, in order that the cloth would 
finish with both edges the same. Suppose the pattern to read as 
follows : 



Xo. 3 



10 


Eed 


4 


Black 


6 


Eed 


6 


Yellow 


6 


Red 


4 


Black 


10 


Eed 


16 


Green 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


4 


Yellow 


10 


Black 


8 


Blue 


100 


Eed 


8 


Blue 


10 


Black 


4 


Yellow 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


16 


Green 



No. 4 



3 


Yellow 


6 


Eed 


4 


Black 


10 


Eed 


16 


Green 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


4 


Yellow 


10 


Black 


8 


Blue 


100 


Eed 


8 


Blue 


10 


Black 


• 4 


Yellow 


6 


Black 


4 


White 


6 


Black 


16 


Green 


10 


Eed 


4 


Black 


6 


Eed 


3- 


Yellow 


254 





254 

There would be exactly the same number of patterns in the 
warp as in the former case, but as the rule of making an equal- 
sided cloth is to be followed, the number of any of the colors should 
be divided (the larger numbers preferred),., and then the desired 
effect will be obtained. 

Sometimes the order is given to liave the main color predom- 
inate. So that No. 4 would be the order of arranging the colors 
to make an equal finish on both sides. This pattern will enable 
the student to use some of the pieces left from other patterns, as 
explained in pattern No. 1. 

The following is the manner in wliich to arrange the way- 
chains and back-beams for this pattern: 



64 



WARP PREPARATION. 57 



3 chains of 308 ends each, Ked 



1 chain 


of 412 ends 


Black 


1 chain 


of 224 ends 


Green 


1 chain 


of 98 ends 


Yellow 


1 chain 


of 112 ends 


Blue 


1 chain 


of 56 ends 


White 



When beaming these chains after they are dyed, place the 
red on 3 beams of 308 ends per beam, 1 beam of 412 ends for 
black, 1 beam of green and yellow, with the ends spaced as 
follows : 



Y 


G 


Y 


G 


YGYGYGYGYG 


4 


16 


6 


16 


8 16 6 16 8 16 6 16 8 16 


Y 


G 


Y 


G 


Y 


8 


16 


6 


16 


4 



YGYGYGYGYG 
6 16 8 16 6 16 8 16 6 16 



One beam for blue and white spaced as follows : 

BW BWBWBWBWBWBWB 

8 8 16 8 16 8- 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 8 

The beams should be placed in the slasher creel according to 
the manner in which it is decided to run the yarn through the size 
box. If the top box is used for the lightest weight of yarn, then 
the blue and white yai-n should run through the top box and the 
rest through the bottom box. This will be the best method, pro- 
vided all past colorings that may have adhered to the box or 
rollers have been removed. 

Arrange the beams 1st black, 2nd, 3rd, 4th red, 5th green and 
yellow^ 6th blue and white. 

There are two methods whereby the above warp can be made. 
First, by spacing the spools in the creel of a beam warper, and 
running the yarn in the form of a stripe on the back beams for the 
slasher. For this method the raw stock (raw cotton) must be 
dyed, carded and spun, or else the yarn must be dyed in skeins 
and transferred by means of a skein winder to spools ; the spools 
being placed in the creel of the warper in the following manner: 
The ends should be divided equally, or as equally as possible, on 
the back beams, so that the tension on the beams can be better 
gaged. The creel holds 560 ends, but we do not need that number. 
Five back beams for the slasher consisting of 498 ends each will 
give us the number, with the exception of the selvedge ends, 
required for the warp. The selvedge ends may be placed 3 on 



m 



58 WARP PREPARATION. 

each side, and run on 4 beams, but they must then be cut out so. 
as not to run on the last beam. There will be 249 ends in each 
wing of the creel. Commence at the top spool in the first row, 
passing down to the bottom spool, then again starting at the top, 
so on until all the ends are drawn through the expansion reed. 

Place the spools in the creel in the following order for the 
first 3 beams : 

Blue White Red White 
12 2 2 2 

Then take out the two red spools and replace with white 
spools for the last 2 beams. Repeat this order 27 times, then 
add 12 blue. 

Proof. 12 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 18 ; 18 X 27 = 486 ; and 486 
+ 12 = 498. 498 X 5 = 2,490 ends in warp, exclusive of sel- 
vedge ends. 

After the spools have been placed in the creel for the pattern, 
add the three selvedge spools on each side, draw the yarn through 
the reed, attach it to the beam and then fix the gears to give the 
required length. After the beams have been run, they are taken 
to the slasher and sized. The objection to the above metliod is 
that the yarn after being spun must be reeled to form skeins, then 
dyed and transferred from the skein to the spool. Or the stock 
must be dyed iu the raw state, which means constant cleaning of 
the cards. and other machinery to prevent the colors spoiling by 
intermixing. One advantage in this latter system is that there is 
very little trouble in the slasher, and the ends come through 
almost in the right places. 

Second Method, Long-chain Process. The number of ends 
that are placed in a chain is governed by orders ; if there are a 
number of warps required in which these colors can be used, 
whether of the same pattern or not, the number of ends in the 
chain should equal the capacity of the creel, or nearly so. • But 
if a small number is required, the double worm and trumpet may 
be used, and two small balls made at the same time. Or, double 
the number of ends now required may be run (for the lesser 
number), and divide tliem on the dividing machine, with the pros- 
pect of using the other ends in a short time. The objection to 
dividing the chain is the tiiue consumed, therefore this method is 



66 



WARP PREPARATION. 59 

only resorted to when absolutely necessary. For instance, when 
a sample piece of cloth is to be made, and there are some chains 
of the required colors in stock, the proper number of ends are 
separated from the chain and transferred to the back beams. 

Ordinarily the pattern already given would be carried through 
in this manner: For the 1,680 blue run 3 chains of 560 ends 
each ; for the white, 2 chains of 336 ends ; for the red, 1 chain 
of 172 ends. For a larger order, make several chains of the 
same number of ends, and if the mill is equipped with a machine 
for winding a cord aromid the chain, wrap several of the smaller 
chains together, and after they are dyed, separate the several 
chains, beam them, and then take them to the slasher. Place the 
blue beams at the back, the white next, and the red beam nearest 
the size box. There should be no trouble in slashing this yarn, 
and in a good many instances there are no bad results from run- 
ning all the beams through the same size box, provided the dif- 
ferent colors are fast. If they are not fast, a separate or double 
size vat should be used, carrying the red through the upper box. 
Cold sizing, which requires great skill, might also be resorted to. 
Blues and some browns 'and other odd colors may be run success- 
fully with whites ; in fact, blues tend toward clearing whites. One 
size vat should be used whenever possible, even though it may 
cost a little more in dyeing. 

One word more in regard to warping. Some overseers do not 
seem to realize the necessity of using up small quantities or odd 
lots of yarn ; the result is considerable waste, for these lots are 
constantly accumulating and taking up valuable space in the 
dressing-room ; furthermore, the yarn does not increase in value 
when kept in such a manner. 

If there is an odd chain of warp in some dusty corner, it 
would be better to transfer the yarn to a back beam, and if a 
selvedge of that particular color is required, it could be placed on 
the back beam behind the slasher, and the required number of 
ends run through, separating them at the split rods. By this 
method the selvedge threads are obtained without the trouble and 
expense of using bobbins, spools, or extra ends on the other beam. 
Afterward this warp can be laid aside and the ends remaining on 
the beam left undisturbed. If, in order to make a different pat- 



60 



WARP PREPARATION. 



tern, a few ends of another color are to be added to a stripe that is 
being run on the slasher, the former spare beam having enough 
ends of that color, it is practical and economical to use that 
remaining portion. 

WOOLEN AND WORSTED WARP DRESSING. 

It is absolutely necessary to get a correct idea of this branch 
of the weaving department, for if a mistake in the pattern and 
evenness of beaming is made here, it is almost impossible to 
remedy the defect. If wrong threads are used in the pattern, the 
right threads can be inserted when the warp goes to the loom ; 
but those threads, whether they run from the spool or bobbin, 
never appear as even as the rest of the yarn; and the insertion 
of the extra threads cannot be called practical, for the operative's 
eyes must be constantly on them to prevent their coming entangled 
with the warp. 





LEESE PIKS SHOWING- LEESE. 



Soft beaming is undesirable at all times. The defects and 
subsequent losses from this process are particularly noticeable 
when the resulting cloth is to be piece dyed. If the threads are 
not beamed evenly, they weave into an uneven cloth, and when 
the piece is dyed it is not only rough looking but contains dif- 
ferent shades of color. This is owing to its not having absorbed 
the dye equally. When a striped warp is beamed in an uneven 
manner, the loose threads show plainly in the woven cloth, and 
they often cause " seconds," or cloth of lower value. This means 
a loss to the mill and an investigation to fix the resj)onsibility. 

Hand°rail. In many mills the hand-rail or peg warper is 



68 



WARP PREPARATION. 



61 



used for making pattern warps or samples. This is a convenient 
machine, as the work is done rapidly, but by hand, as its name 
implies, and little waste is made. No great amount of skill is 
required in making a warp on the hand rail. The main points to 
be observed are in the picking up of the leese, taking the same 
thread every time the leese is made when adding a pattern to the 
one already on the pegs, and keeping a constant tension on the 
yarn as it is carried around them. 




Fig. 39. 

First place the bobbins in the creel (Fig, 39) ; the number 
being determined by the number of ends in a pattern. 

Suppose a blanket having 500 ends in each section is to be 
made, one section to contain 10 patterns of 50 ends each. ■ The 
following is the pattern (50 ends) to be carried out for one 
section (500 ends) : 

4 brown, 2 fawn, 1 slate, 2 brown, 1 slate, 2 fawn, 1 slate, 4 brown 
1 slate, 2 fawn, 1 slate, 2 brown, 1 slate, 2 fawn, 4 brown, 4 fawn 
1 slate, 1 brown, 3 fawn, 1 slate, 2 brown, 1 slate, 3 fawn, 1 brown 
1 slate, 3 fawn, 20 brown threads to be added for listing 

The above is a_ pattern for trousering, with the backing 
threads of brown and slate. The warp to be 12 yards in lengths 



69 



62 



WARP PREPARATION. 



Place the listing or selvedge threads on the pegs first (Fig. 40), 
2 threads over and 2 under the leese pegs. Pick up the pattern, 
1 thread over and 1 thread under, using the finger and thumb 
or a double piece of wire; always remember to keep the same 
order whether the first thread is placed under or over the thumb, 
otherwise two threads will come together when the next pattern 
is placed on the pegs, and will probably be drawn in on the wrong 
harness. After placing the threads over the leese pins, carry 

them around the pins 
[ [ ] set apart for the required 
length. Before reach- 
ing tlie last peg the yarn 
should be placed half 
over and half under the 
pegs for the footing 
leese. Instead of being 
the same as the top 
single leese there should 
be 25 ends over and 25 
ends under the pegs. 
The footing leese indi- 
cates that there is a snf- 
ficient number of pat- 
terns on the pegs to 
form the required warp. 
From the footing leese 
all the yarn is passed around the last peg, and the footing leese 
taken again as the yarn is returned towards the single leese. This 
leese is also taken again, and the yarn passed around the single 
peg. It is best to pick the single leese just before the yarn is 
passed around the single peg and before the leese pegs are reached. 
Two patterns are now on the pegs. 

The above order should be carried out until the first section 
of the blanket is on the pegs, after which change the bobbins for 
the yarn required in the next section. After this is finished 
place the yarn for the third section ; then add the listing threads 
for this side. We now have a warp of 1,500 ends in addition to 
the selvedges. Tie a string in the yarn in the places occupied by 




Fig. 40. 



70 



WARP PREPARATION. 63 



the leese pegs which will retain the threads in the right order, 
as if they were still on the pegs. The yarn is then taken to the 
hand-beamer. 

Hand=beamer. Hand-beamers are constrncted in several 
ways, to suit the convenience of the operator. The yarn is 
stretched out between the head stock (where the beam is) and 
the friction end. This friction can be in the form of a rope 
with a weight attached, the rope being connected with a rod which 
has been passed through the footing leese. The rope is passed 
over anything that is convenient. 

A stand is placed to support the beam, and to which a reed 
or expansion comb can be attached, the threads passing through 
the comb and on to the beam. After the warp is stretched out, 
leese rods are placed in the threads to take the place of the 
leese string. The above method is generally used for sample 
blankets, and for making short warps for cloth that is not to be 
duplicated. 

Another method of warping which is meeting with great 
favor, especially in worsted mills, is the use of an ordinary beam 
warper, used in connection with a slasher or hot-air dresser. With 
this system the twister or spinning-frame spools can be placed in 
the warper creel, and the yarn run directly on the back beam for 
the slasher. The pattern is arranged in the creel. There is a 
saving in this system, more especially in complicated patterns. 
The tension on the warp is more uniform, and it is also made at 
one time, instead of in sections, as in the machine to be described 

POWER WARPING. 

There are four distinct operations in the dressing of warps : 
Spooling ; Picking out the pattern and tying in the same ; Sizing 
and Drying ; Reeling and Beaming. 

Spooling. The yarn is spooled from bobbins on to jack spools. 
The jack spool is entirely unlike any cotton spool. Instead of 
holding only 1 thread it has a capacity of from 40 to 50, lying 
side by side. It is shaped something like a cotton back beam but 
is much smaller. For an intricate pattern the colors are some- 
times spaced on the jack spools ; that is, instead of having 40 
ends of one color on a spool, there are sometimes several colors. 



71 



64 



WARP PREPARATION. 



Some spools are larger than the above, and hold 50 or more ends. 
While apparently a simple process, a warp may be spoiled at this 



Fig. 41. 



TRAVERSE 

5£i 




stage of preparation by the following defects : more tension on one 
spool than on another, loose threads, or, in short warps, insufficient 



72 



V\"ARP PREPARATION. 



65 



length on one or more spools. This latter defect is serious, neces- 
sitating tlie tying in of a short length to finish the warp and 
thereby making 40 or more knots to the warp, and all in one place. 
The drum of the spooler is generally one yard in circumference 
(Figs. 41 and 42). At the end of the drum shaft a single worm is 
fixed ; this imparts niotion to a 30-tooth gear. On the same shaft 
as this gear is a single worm, which drives the clock or indicator ; 




Fig. 42. 

1 revolution of the drum = 1 tooth on the 30 gear ; 1 revolution 
of the 30 gear = 1 tooth of the indicator, or 30 yards. It is 
better to run a trifle longer length on the spool than the yards 
shown on the indicator, owing to the possibility of the spool slip- 
ping when starting up. 



73 



G6 



WARP PREPARATION. 




bo 



74 




§ J 



WARP PREPARATION. 67 

Creel. The spools are placed in the creel or support behind 
the spooler. The creel holds 40 or 50 spools, according to the 
width of the spooler drum. 

Steam Dresser. The purpose of the steam dresser is to 
immerse the yarn in a sizing compound and dry it before it reaches 
the reel (Fig. 43). The size gives greater strength to the warp 
threads and helps to lay the ibers, thereby making a smooth yarn. 
One of the greatest difficulties to contend with during the weav- 
ing process is the clinging together of the yarn. If this is not 
prevented, the long fibers are gradually worked loose by the reed, 
and the loose portions adhere to the ends in the form of balls or 
lumps, which cause the yarn to break frequently. Woolen yarns 
are almost always sized, but worsted yarns need only be sized when 
they are heavily sleyed ; that is, when they have a large number 
of ends and picks, or when single (not two-ply) worsted warps 
are being used. 

Sizing Compounds. For woolen yarns, 10 pounds starch, 
14 pounds glue, 50 gallons of water and a little tallow. 

Another compound is made up of 25 pounds of glue, 100 
gallons of water and 2 pounds of tallow. In some instances Irish 
moss is used with a light solution of glue and tallow. 

For worsted yarns, 50 gallons of water, 15 pounds starch, 
weak solution of Irish moss, 1 pound tallow. Another is com- 
posed of 60 gallons of water, 20 pounds of starch, 4 pounds 
dextrin, 2 pounds tallow. 

If the creel holds 12 spools, 40 ends on each spool, or 480 
ends in all, it is not necessary to have 480 ends in use ; moreover, 
that number will not always divide equally in the number required 
to make the warp. Each section must be the same as another, if 
they are expected to join together to make one warp. For ex- 
ample, suppose there is one pattern and a half in one section ; 
when the next section is laid on the I'eel the full pattern com- 
mences next to the half pattern in the last section, which would 
cause a break in the warp. If, however, equal patterns compose 
each section, they would join together without a break. 

Occasionally when a very large pattern is to be made, for in- 
stance, a dress-goods pattern of 600 ends, one-half of the pattern 
could be made and placed on the reel in alternate sections, leaving 



75 



68 WARP PREPARATION. 

one empty section between for the next half of the pattern. 
With this method care must be taken when the pa-ttern is tied in, 
or it will not match. Great care must also be exercised with 
regard to the friction. Instances are frequent where one section 
has had a trifle less friction than another, or by some fault has 
been allowed to run loose on the reel ; the result has been uneven 
and baggy cloth. 

It is not uncommon to add one or more spools to the capacity 
of the creel, these being placed in special stands. The demands 
of the pattern and the skill of the dresser determine the additions. 

Formation of the Pattern. A warp of 1,944 ends, 30 yards 
in length, is required of the following pattern : 4 black, 2 dark 
blue, 1 slate, 2 blue ; 9 ends in a pattern, 24 black ends on each 
side to be added for listing. 

The first thing to consider is the capacity of the creel, 
because on a woolen dresser a warp of 1,944 ends cannot be made 
in one section ; however, to overcome this, several sections can be 
made, which added together make one warp. In making this 
pattern on a creel of the above capacity, proceed as follows: 

There are 1,944 ends, 9 ends to a pattern. 1,944 ^ 9 = 216 
patterns. 216 -f- 9 = 24. There will be 9 sections with 24 
patterns in a section, and, therefore, 216 ends in a section. 

The total pattern is thus divided by a number that would 
give a practical working quantity. 

The reason for not having 432 ends in a section (as the 
capacity of the creel is 480) is that 9 sections give an equal 
number of patterns in each section, whereas if we had 48 patterns 
in a section, or 432 ends, there would be only 41 sections, which 
would mean the waste of a large quantity of yarn. If a full pattern 
is taken from the spools, and afterward half a pattern is taken from 
the same spools, the other threads must be discarded, which is not 
practical in fancy patterns. Therefore this warp on this size 
creel and spools should have 9 sections with 24 patterns in each 
section. Multiply the number of ends of each color by the 
patterns in a section to get the total number of ends of each color. 
4 Black X 24 =r 96 2 spools of 40 ends; 16 over 

2 Dark Blue X 24 = 48 2 spools of 40 ends; 16 over 

1 Slate X 24 = 24 _l_spool of 24 ends 

2 Dark Blue X 24 = 48 - 5 spools 



76 



WARP PREPARATION. 60 

Place the ends that are left from the full spool; namely, 16 
black and 16 dark blue, on one spool ; 1 black, 1 blue. This gives G 
spools. It is best to run the selvedge from a separate spool. As 
the ^yarp is to be 30 yards in length, and there are 9 sections from 
the same spools, run 9 times 30 yards from each spool, and also 
allow several yards for waste at the end of each section for tying 
the pattern, drawing in the warp, and for any possibility of loss 
through the spool slipping while the yarn is being spooled. 
Twelve yards, or a little over one yard for each section, is suf- 
ficient. This gives 282' yards on each spool. An indicator is 
placed on the spooler to show the number of yards run through 
the machine. 

The spools are then placed in the creel of the dresser in the 
following order : the two black spools at the bottom, the spaced 
spool next, then two blue, and the slate at the top. 

Picking the Pattern. There are three ways of doing this. 
First, the more common is to have all the ends that are in the 
reed at the bottom; then count off the ends according to the 
pattern. The black spools are at the bottom, blue next, and slate 
next. Take up the number for the slate first.^ Commence at the 
right-hand side of the reed and count 2 ends, let them remain 
down, then lift 1 end, which will be for the slate, and place it 
over the top of the reed, count 2 for blue, 4 black, then begin with 
the pattern again ; 2 blue, and these together will make 8 ends ; 
lift 1 over the reed, count 8, lift 1 over the reed, and so on 
until the number for the slate are picked out and laid over the 
reed. Tie these together, and let them remain over the reed. 
Count the ends for the blue, 2 and 2, making 4 ; place them over 
the reed, leave 4 down for the black, pass 4 over the reed, leave 4 
down for black, and so on to the end. Tie these together as 
before and lay them over the reed. All that remain down are for 
the black, but it is well to count them in order to be sure of this. 

When there are 3 or 4 spools of one color, the ends are 
counted off in forties and bunched together, after completing the 
above process. For example, if there are 4 spools of black, take 
the first end of each of the 4 that are counted in the reed for black, 
and tie them together ; then the second in each 4, the third and the 
fourth. Separate the other colors in the same manner, afterwards 



77 



70 WARP PREPARATION. 

placing all the yarn over the reed. Then pulling down the first 
bunch of forties for the black, tie them to the bottom spool, then 
the second bunch to the second spool, and so on. But with the 
pattern by the first method there is no necessity to separate the 
ends that have been counted in the reed ; take all the black 
threads and tie to them the ones on the spools. Commence at the 
bottom for the first end^ and 1 from the second spool for the second 
end, and the black end on the spaced spool can be tied to the third 
in the reed. Then start on the bottom spool again, keeping them 
as straight as possible, passing from the bottom to the top spool 
however many there are. After the black ends are tied in, follow 
with the blue, then the slate. The ends must not be crossed any 
more than possible, because they will become tangled in the reed 
and will be broken frequently. This applies to all warps that are 
placed in the dresser. 

• It sometimes happens that the spaced spool has 2 or 3 threads 
of one color side by side, and 1 of another color. In order that 
the single thread may come in a straight line in the reed, take 
no notice of the single thread on the spaced spool when piecing 
the first bunch of ends of that color starting at the bottom spool 
of the same color until sufficient ends have been tied in the 
reed for the single thread to run straight, or as nearly straight 
as possible. A little thought concerning this will save endless 
trouble. 

The Second Method requires great care and must not be inter- 
rupted until all the warp is tied in. It is not often attempted 
except in simple patterns, and then only by competent operatives. 
The ends are not counted in the reed, a bunch of them being 
taken and the ends on the spools tied to them, as the pattern calls 
for them ; the one who ties them constantly glancing at the 
pattern paper. 

■The Third Method. The following is the Writer's method, 
and one which he considers to be the safest, best and .most rapid. 
Count the threads in the reed, and cast over the top of the reed 
the last end of each color ; when this end is reached the operative 
knows that it is the last of the color being tied in. It is very 
convenient when there are several of one color together. After 
casting over the last thread in each number, take a bunch of those 



78 



WARP PREPARATION. 71 

that are down, and tie them to the threads on the spools according 
to the pattern. Glance at the pattern occasionally while so doing. 

This method has a decided advantage, inasmuch as it is not 
necessary to lean over the threads after a few have been pieced, as 
must be done in the first method when one spool is tied in at a 
time ; consequently there is less risk of twisting the threads, which 
often causes a number of them to break as they are drawn through 
the reed. The operative recedes from the threads as they are 
pieced, and after awhile he will become expert enough to piece 
the threads so that even one slack end will be an exception. It 
also means that about an hour has been saved in the picking out 
of the pattern, and the operative is able to draw the ends straight 
through the reed without snarling, as frequently happens if they 
become loose or are rubbed. Some dresser tenders twist the 
threads together, which is a very good method after proficiency 
has been attained. 

After the warp is tied in, it passes between flannel-covered 
iron squeeze rolls. The lower roll is partly immersed in the 
size, which is placed in the size vat. The vats are jacketed; 
that is, they have a steam chamber underneath them. Perforated 
pipe cannot be used with any degree of success when the size con- 
tains glue. From the vat the yarn passes around the steam pipes 
and the copper cylinder, and over the measuring roll. Iron rods 
and tin rollers are used to keep the yarn off the pipes. The tin 
rolls nearest the size vat are in skeleton form, so that the yarn will 
not adhere to the rolls as it passes around them. 

Leese Reed. From the measuring roll the yarn passes 
through the leese reed. This is a blocked reed, one dent being 
empty and the next blocked ; that is, one-third is closed at the 
top and a third at the bottom, leaving the remaining third open 
in the middle. Each alternate dent is treated in this manner. 
One end passes through the open dent, and one through the 
blocked dent. Both the pattern reed and the leese reed should 
be of the same count, say 10 dents to the inch. 

Condenser Reed. The yarn then passes through the con- 
denser reed, which condenses it to the width of the section on the 
reel. The total number of ends in a section must be equally 
cliyid^d in the dents of the condenser reed. If there are several 



78 



72 WARP PREPARATION. 

more in one dent than another, they tend to crowd on the reel, 
with the result that they are stretched too much, or they will 
break constantly. Either of these faults make poor cloth. 

To determine the number of ends to be placed in the con- 
denser reed and the width of each section, proceed as follows : 
There are 9 sections. If the reed has 10 dents to the inch, and 
the warp is to be 31|^ inches in width, 311 _i- 9 rr 3i inches in 
each section. There are 216 ends in a section. Ten dents multi- 
plied by 3| =. 35 dents. 216 -^ 35 = 6 and 6 ends extra; there- 
fore, place 6 ends in each dent of the condenser, and distribute 
the extra 6 ends as equally as possible. 

In making a warp with 238 ends in a section, and the sec- 
tions 4^ inches wide, to find the number of ends in a dent in the 
condenser, 

238 -^ 42 r= 5 and 28 over. 

Two-thirds of 42 is 28, therefore 6 are placed in each 2 
dents out of every 3, and 5 in the third ; they will be distributed 
equally. 6 -f 6 + 5 = 17. 42 4- 3 = 14 ; 17 X 14 = 238. 

Taking the Leese. The yarn is first bunched and fastened 
to the pin on the reel. By the aid of two rods the leese is taken, 
but the manner in which this is done must be remembered, that 
is, whether the yarn is first pressed down or lifted up, or two 
threads will come together in the same leese at the end of the sec- 
tion. With one rod press down the yarn near the reed on the side 
nearest the reel. This causes the ends that are in the open dents 
to go below those in the blocked dents ; they will form an open- 
i]\g, each alternate thread being at the bottom and the other threads 
at the top. Pass a rod through this opening, and open out the 
ends until there is a clear space beyond the condenser reed ; now 
pass a cord through tliis space, take out the rods and lift up the 
yarn, so that the threads which were at the bottom will be at the 
top. Pass a rod through this opening, and open out the yarn as 
before, then pass a cord through this, and the result is a single 
leese. This must be followed out at the beginning of each section. 

After the leese is taken, set the measuring clock. One tooth 
gives 18 inches, 2 teeth 1 yard, so that 60 teeth indicate 30 
yards. To the first and last sections the selvedge threads are 
added. Start up the reel, taking care that the yarn passing 



80 



WARP PREPARATION. 



73 



through the condenser goes straight inside ■ the section pins. 
When the length is run on the reel, cut off and tie the ends into 
a knot for the next section. Fasten the yarn to the pin on the. 
reel, draw the reel on the track until the next section is opposite 
the condenser, and take the leese as before. Follow this order 
until finished, setting the clock at every commencement. 

Reel. When the width of the section has been determined, 
pins are placed in the bars of the reel to correspond with that dis- 
tance, so that the yarn will be laid straight on the reel, without 
one section overlapping another. When all the sections are 
placed on the reel, they constitute a warp of the number of ends 
required,. 1,944, with the addition of the selvedges. 




Beaming. Before beaming, loosen. the belts around the reel, 
and add the friction, then tie the yarn to the leader. This is 
generally a piece of burlap attached to the beam. If a small 
quantity is tied at once, better warp is made, as the knot will be 
smaller. The amount of friction required must be determined by 
circumstances. Do not make a soft beam, and do not add too 
much friction, or it will strain the yarn ; 7 or 8 pounds of steam 
are sufficient for drying purposes, and it is well to shut off the 
steam if the dresser is to be stopped for any length of time, or the 
yarn will be burned. It is also well to have separate connections 
for the size vat from the steam pipes, so that they can be run 
independently. 

Press Roll. This is a recent invention for making^ better 
beamed warp ; it also allows more length of yarn to be placed on 
the beam. It is of great value, because the beam is harder pressed, 
thereby preventing the layers from sticking to each other, with 
less possible chance of uneven cloth. 



81 




IDEAL AUTOMATIC LOOM FOR PLAIN GOODS 

The Geo. W. Stafford Co. 



WEAVING. 

PAET I. 

TWISTING AND DRAWING IN WARPS. 

In some mills, so little attention is given to this department 
that it is no uncommon thing to see a warp cut out of a loom on 
account of bad harnesses. This means extra cost credited to the 
weaving department, for the man who generally has charge of this 
branch is in turn responsible to the overseer of weaving. Lack of 
inspection of harnesses when out of the loom, or in the loom when 
a warp has been woven out, results in considerable unnecessary ex- 
pense. Harnesses are frequently cast aside, which by means of a 
little repairing could be made almost as good as new. 

A little tallow brushed on the wire heddles and heddle rods 
will make the heddles last two or three years longer than if they 
were rubbed with oil, and most certainly longer than if no lubricant 
were applied. Tallow does not run as much as oil ; when placing 
it on the harnesses, a brush should be used that will apply it to the 
heddles uniformly. When applied unevenly, the loose fibres which 
fall from the yarn during the weaving process cling to the lumps of 
tallow, and the ends of the heddles stick together. This often causes 
the yarn to break, especially after a thread has been drawn in, owing 
to the heddles not returning to place. 

Another advantage that a good tallow has over oil is' that there 
is less staining of the yarn caused by the oil running into the eyes 
of the heddles. A stain woven into the cloth is extremely hard to 
wash out, and sometimes does not yield even to bleaching, but leaves 
a yellow spot. This of course means second quality cloth. By giv- 
ing "the harnesses the proper amount of attention, the iixer can start 
up a warp in less time, and also save the weaver the piecing of many 
smashes. When oil is applied to the heddles in the weave room, 
twice as much is used as is necessary, and one-half of it is gener- . 
ally on the yara, with stamed cloth ad the result* It is a well-knowQ 



83 



76 WEAVING. 



fact that the lack of care in the harness room is often the cause of 
a few pieces of cloth costing one-quarter more than they should cost, 
besides causing endless trouble in the weave room and cloth ware- 
house. 

If the small nut which is generally placed on the end of the 
heddle rod outside the harness frame is left off, a smash is often the 
result; for the rod slips through. the frame and the heddles drpp 
into the yarn. Some heddle rods have two ridges in the center ; if 
the hook which supports the rod is not between these ridges, the rod 
slips out and a heddle smash follows. 

Cotton, harnesses require just as much care as wire heddles, 
possibly more ; they ought to be handled very carefully. Harness 
eyes are often cracked by careless handling, so that when the warp 
is placed in the loom, the ends are frequently broken out by catch- 
ing in the injured eye. Cotton harnesses are always varnished, for 
they give better results when they are very smooth. 

Smooth harnesses are to be desired, even though they may be 
stiff er; if the harness-maker does not brush them thoroughly, espe- 
cially after they have been varnished, or if by an oversight they are 
brushed in the wrong direction, small lumps are left on the harnesses, 
and these chafe the yarn. 

If the harnesses are very stiff they are likely to crack, and 
sometimes the cracks are so small that when the harnesses are in 
the loom, the cause of the yarn's breaking out is not easily seen. It 
is far better to spend a half-hour in thoroughly examining the har- 
nesses or heddles before the warp is drawn in, than to have the warp 
go to the weave room with the possibility of cutting out because of 
their being imperfect. 

The diagram at Fig. 44 shows the harnesses and a method of 
actuating the same when used in hand looms. Fig. 45 is a sectional 
view of modern harnesses and heddles. 

The counts of cotton harnesses, or number of eyes on a shaft, 
are designated as so many beers in a certain number of inches ; there 
are always 20 eyes in a beer. A beer is distinguished by a cord that 
passes on the outside of each 20 harness threads, and at the bottom 
of the shaft. 

Example : Harnesses are required for a plain cloth 30 inches 
wide and 72 ends per inch in the reed. Two shades are necessary 



84 



WEAVING. 




Fig. 44. Handloom Mechanism. 



85 



78 



WEAVING. 




in making plain clotli, and we should use a 36 reed, two ends in a 
dent. Each shade or harness shaft would then have on it 36 har- 
ness eyes in one inch. 36x30 = 1,080 harness eyes. 1,080 -i- 
20 = 54 beers. It is customary to add extra eyes for the selvedge 
threads, so that the harnesses would be ordered as follows : One set 
of harnesses, two shades, with 55^ beers in 30|- inches, or 1,104 

eyes on each shaft ;- the depth of harnesses 
to be 10 inches. 

When calculating for cloth that re- 
quires 3, 4, 5, or more shades, the number 
of ends in the warp apart from the selv- 
edges are divided by the number of shades, 
the result is again divided by the num- 
ber of ends in a beer. When calculating 
for spaced harnesses, such as are used for 
striped patterns, the width of the stripes 
determine the number of eyes on each 
shaft. 

Example : A satin and ,plain striped 
cloth, 28 inches in the reed, 40^ reed; 
plain stripe to have, 60 ends in A of an 
inch ; satin stripe to have 50 ends in i 
inch: 5-harness satin weave. It is best 
to have a striped cloth finished with both 
edges alike ; that is, if the stripe near the 
selvedge on one side is plain, the stripe 
near the other selvedge ought to be plain 
also. Consequently the above pattern, to 
have equal edges, would start on one side 
with I of an inch of plain, then |-inch 
of -|-inch plain and i-inch satin would 



I 2 3 4 '5 '6 7 




Fig. 45. Sectional view of 
Harnesses. 



satin. The full pattern 
then be repeated 27 times, and there would be | of an inch of 
plain left. This would make both edges equal. The plain shades 
would be ordered as follows : Two shades, knit 15 eyes on |- of an 
inch, drop' 1 of an inch; then commence with full pattern.. Knit 
30 eyes on | of an inch, drop ^ inch, and repeat the full pattern 27 
times. Finish with 15 eyes on |- of an inch. The satin would be 
5 shades; miss | inch," then OQ«imenc§ with fuU pattern, knit 10 



S6 



WEAVING. 



eyes on ^ of an inch, drop | of an inch. Eepeat the pattern, or the 
knit spaces 28 times. Sometimes the spaces are marked off on the 
harness shaft, as a guide to the knitter. The number. of yards on 
all of the shades would be : plain, 1,680 ; satin, 1,400 ; total, 3,080. 

Castincr out is often resorted to in mills where cotton harnesses 
are used extensively. Casting out means not using a certain number 
of eyes, so that a set of harness shades can be used for a coarser 
reed than they were intended for when first knit. This often saves 
the purchasing of a new set of harnesses, but they are not as con- 
venient for the weaver when threads break out, necessitating greater 
care. 

Example : A set of harnesses has 36 eyes to the inch, and is to 
be used with a 30^ reed, so that there are 6 eyes per inch more than 
are required. It is best in such a case to cast out these eyes every 
half-inch, because casting out 6 eyes together would cause too wide 
a space. When the harnesses are- placed on the frame, 30 ends are 
drawn in, 15 on each shade, then 6 eyes are cast out, 3 on each 
shade ; this order is followed out to the end of the warp. 

Cotton harnesses give the better results ; they are easier on the 
yarn, because they yield somewhat to its tension ; and also because 
there is a smaller loss of elasticity from the yarn, than there is by 
the use of wire heddles. Cotton harnesses are more costly than 
wire heddles ; when used for fancy stripes they can be used only for 
one particular pattern or one that is similar, whereas wire heddles 
can be used on any number of patterns. 

Twisting and Drawing In. Twisting in a warp means con- 
necting the ends of a new warp to the ends remaining from a former 
warp that has either been woven out or cut out. The twists are 
drawn through the eyes of the harnesses or heddles, also through 
the reed ; the warp is then ready for weaving. The lower sketch in 
Fig. 46 shows the actual position of the threads when being " twisted." 
The upper sketch shows the position which they assume when the 
opperation has been completed. 

Drawing in the warp means drawing one or more ends through 
one eye of the harness or heddle at one time, and continuing this 
until all of the warp threads' have been drawn through their respec- 
tive eyes ; the ends are then drawn through the reed and the warp is 
ready to be placed in the loom. 



87 



80 



WEAVING. 



The question as to whether it is cheaper to draw in warps or 
twist them in, is one that can only be decided by the class of fabrics 
woven and the circumstances surrounding the mill. Some overseers 
seem to be prejudiced against either one.' system or the other. Draw- 
ing in the warp is the better in mills where there is constant changing 
of patterns, and is in fact quite necessary ; one or two twisters are, 
however, generally employed, besides those who draw in the warps. 

Twisters are more generally employed in mills where patterns are 
repeated for two or more 
warps, and especially 
where striped fabrics are 
woven ; also in mills 
where two or more warps 
are required to produce 
certain fabrics. When 
several warps are used, 
one of them is likely to 
be woven up before the 
others ; then of course a 

new warp is twisted in. This saves the cost of taking the pattern 
out of the loom. 




Twisted " Warp Yarns. 



In mills where nothing but plain cloth is woven, it is generally 
a question of competent or incompetent employees, as to whether 
twisting is more profitable than drawing in. 

So far as is possible a warp should be drawn in the reed equally, 
that is, if any part of the reed is left vacant, the spare dents should 
be equal in number on each side of the warp. This helps to make 
a better selvedge than if all the spare dents were on one side, be- 
cause the wider the space from the selvedge to the box, the more 
slack filling there is to be drawn through the shed, and to get this 
through so as to make a good selvedge, more power must be applied 
to the pick from that side. The pattern determines the number of 
wire heddles that are to be placed on each harness frame. 

Example : A warp of 2,490 ends has been made, and the. 
cloth is to be a shaloon twill (cotton) or cassimere (woolen), in other 

2 
words a twill. This will be a solid cloth, no stripes in it. Such 

a twill requires but 4 harnesses to weave it, but better results 



88 



WEAVING. 



81 



would be obtained by using 8 harnesses, because there would then be 
less crowding of the heddles, which is an advantage. When a solid 
cloth is to be made, the total number of ends are divided by the 
number of harnesses, and the result gives the number of heddles 
to be placed on each shaft. It is customary to allow a number of 
extra heddles for the selvedge,, and the cloth appears better if the 
selvedges are drawn in to form a different weave from that of the 
body of the cl-oth. 2,490 -^ 8 = 311 with 2 over. If 315 heddles 
are placed on each shaft, these will allow for both the warp and 
selvedge threads. When a striped fabric, the easiest method is to 
examine the drawing-in draft which is generally marked for one 
pattern. Multiply the threads shown on the draft for each harness, 
by the number of patterns, and this will give the number required. 
Example : — ■ Eor drawing draft (see Fig. 47.) 



_3x46-i3a 

_4>c46-l84 
_iXAb = 184 
_4i>46 = l84 
_4»46il84 



Pig. 47.- Drawing Draft for 11 Harnesses. 

54 ends in a pattern. 46 patterns. 54 X 46 = 2,484 ends. Heddles 
required on each shaft. 

Harness No. 11 — 138 heddles, 
10 — 184 

9—184 
" 8 — 184 

" 7—184 

" 6 — 184 " 

5 — 184 " 
" 4 — 184 

3— 92 " 

" 2 506 " ) 

It I 4gQ i< > add a few extra heddles for selvedge. 

Better results are obtained by having 4 harnesses instead of 2 
for the plain stripe. If these are added, it is necessary only to divide 
the number on each shaft by two. 



89 



82 



WEAVIKG. 




Fig. 48. Modern Interchangeable Plain Loom. 



THE PLAIN POWER LOOM. 

There are mauy kinds of plain power looms on the market, but 
at the present time the demand for such a diversity of cloth neces- 
sitates so much changing in mills that a loom should be bought in 
which is taken into consideration, this diversity of fabrics. There are 
looms which will weave the best of plain cloths, but which are not 
adapted even for sateens or twills, without reckoning fancy cloths 
woven by means of a dobby, unless great expense attends the chang- 
ing over. 

In buying looms a great deal more depends upon their build 
with regard to production than is generally taken into consideration, 
for a loom that will run for several months and then remain almost 
continually out of order is of little value. There are a number of 
looms of this kind on the market to-day. At first they appear to be 
very light-running looms, their cost being a trifle less than the some- 
what heavier ones. After these light machines have been running 
about twelve months new castings are required frequently, and as is 
generally the case, a badly constructed loom has a number of large cast- 



90 



WEAVING. 



83 



ings in its makeup ; therefore, when a small portion wears out a large 
portion has to be replaced, necessitating repairs costing two or three 
times more than those of a properly constructed loom. It does not 
necessarily mean weakness when several parts are bolted together 
instead of being cast in one large piece; for there are several motions 
that could with profit be made in small 
sections, instead of in one solid piece. If 
small sections are fitted and bolted to- 
gether properly, they would add to the 
better running of the loom, and it would 
cost less to replace a worn part. For ex- 
ample : it is much better to have the 
bracket or lugs, separate from the crank- 
pin than to have the pin cast with the 
bracket ; for by means of the former con- 
struction the pin can be readily replaced 
when worn, while with the latter way the 
bracket must be replaced also. 

In some looms the lower portion of 
the lay sword (as in Fig. 49) is large 
enough to have a hole drilled in it, 
through which the rocker shaft passes. 
This necessitates useless expense, for 
when repairing, it often requires the labor 
of two persons to remove the rocker shaft, 
one to twist and turn the shaft to get it 
out, and the other to keep the further lay 
sword perpendicular, for if it moves in 
the least it binds the shaft. This part 
constructed in the following manner is 
repaired in much less time: (see Figs. 50 
and 51). If the lower portion of the lay 
sword is bolted to a bracket, which is set- 
screwed to the rocker shaft, it is a com- 
paratively easy matter to loosen the bracket from the lay sword and 
to then loosen the boxes of the shaft and draw it out. The shaft 
cannot bind, so there is no need of using an extra man's time. 

The pick cams can be made in two parts, aside from the point 




Fig. 49. Lay Sword with 
Eocker Sliaft Connections. 



91 



84 



WEAVING. 



or nose. A circular plate is compounded with the boss, and through 
which the shaft passes, this portion being fixed to the shaft. At- 
tached to this fixed portion should be the outer portion of the cam, 
which comes in contact with the picking cone. This being separate 
from the fixed plate can be moved backward or forward, as the case 
demands, to give an early or late pick. It is the constant loosening 
and tightening of the set screws that fasten the cam to the shaft 
which cause trouble, although if the set screws are cupped and 
chilled, they bite the shaft and there is less difficulty than when 
ordinary set screws are used. 



.n. 




Figs. 50 and 51. Two part Lay Sword. 

Fig. 52, another style of sectional pick cam, when cast in the 
right manner, is a fine cam, but costly when the draughtsman does 
not understand the work it has to perform. There are other matters 
of a similar nature that will be explained later. 

These are essential points to be considered in connection with 
looms, and if not carefully considered will result in a loss of pro- 
duction and a consequent increase in cost of same. Any loom that 
is frequently out of repair means a loss caused by its standing, and 
also loss of attention that the other looms require; moreover, the 
cloth produced by such a loom is not up to requirements. 

Some of the disadvantages attendant upon changing over a loom, 
from plain goods to a 3-harness twill, which is not fitted with an 
auxiliary shaft, are here set down. An ordinary plain loom cannot 
be changed to weave the twill until an auxiliary or sleeve shaft has 



92 



WEAVING. 




been fitted on, and before commencing this all the running parts 
of the loom must be loosened. A practical man knows what this 
means, and especially if he has ever been troubled with his picking 
motion. Even then most looms are not built with space enough 
to allow for the change, the depth of the loom from breast beam 
to whip roll being insufficient. If an attempt is made to weave 
sateens the movement of the 
lay is not sufficient, and the 
crank shaft must be changed 
.for one with a larger crank ; 
otherwise, in a sateen cloth of 
120 picks per inch or more, a 
very small shuttle will have to 
be used or the side ends will 
be broken frequently. Then 
again a stronger pick is re- 
quired to force the shuttle 
across the lay before the shed 
closes. These objectionable 
points are all prevented by 

buying looms that are built with the expectation of being changed 
over to weave any ordinary fancy cloth, even if the addition of a 
dobby head be necessary. (See Fig. 53.) 

SHEDDING MOTION. 

The build of the shedding cams greatly influences the rest of 
the working parts of the loom. Too little attention is given to these 
essentials in consideration of the return which is expected from 
them. It is impossible to get good returns from an imperfect 
source ; and it is well known that if the harnesses are working dis- 
proportionately, poor results will ensue. Unequal shedding is the 
cause of endless trouble both to fixer and weaver, and the cloth 
resulting therefrom is not fit for sale as firsts. The greater care 
should be taken, not only in the construction of the cam, but in the 
fitting of the cam to the requirements of the cloth to be woven. On 
some cloths very little dwell of the harnesses is necessary ; simply 
have the shed well opened a sufficient length of time to allow the 
shuttle to pass wholly through. A very short dwell of the harness 



Fig. 52. Sectional Pick Cam. 



93 



86 



WEAVING. 



is better for the yarn, as there is less actual strain upon it when the 
shed is opened gradually than when it is suddenly opened. 

The term "dwell" means the effect of that portion of the cam 
which keeps the harness at rest for a certain part of one revolution 
of the crank shaft, and during a portion of which time the shuttle is 
passing through the shed. 




Fig. 53. Opeu Front of Loom Sliowiiig all Motions Connected. 

Although the shedding motion is the first principal movement, 
it must be so constructed that it will conform to, and be on time 
with the second principal movement, picking. Hence the reason for a 
certain amount of the revolution of the crank shaft being spoken 
of as a dwell of the harness. 

The shedding motion is the first of the three principal move- 
ments in weaving. The parts of the motion for the plain loom are 
shown in the diagram at Fig. 54, and are as follows : 



A Shedding Cams 

B Treadles 

B' Treadle Pin 

C Treadle Bowl 

D Bottom Harness Straps 



D' Top Harness Straps 

E Harness Eoller and Set Collars 

F Lambs or Harness Jacks 

G Back Harness 

H Front Harness 



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WEAVING. 



87 



The shedding cams are fixed in such a position on the cam shaft 
that they will, when in motion, operate the treadles. The sketch 
represents two cams used in making plain cloth ; as one treadle is 
depressed by the extended portion of the cam, A, the other treadle 
is raised, and for the next pick the opposite takes place. That is, 
the harness that was first depressed is raised, and the one that was 
raised is depressed, the extended portion of the cam pressing it down. 
This action of the treadles is due to the manner in which they are 
connected, as shown in the sketch. The back harness strap is con- 




Fig. 54. Shedding Motion. 

nected with the treadle that is raised, and at the top it is attached 
to the lamb, F. This lamb is connected with the bottom of the 
harness, G, by means of a hook ; the top of the harness is connected 
by a similar hook to the top harness strap D.' This strap is fastened 
to the large set collar on the harness roller E. The front harness- 
connections are the same as those of the back harness, with the 
exception that the lower strap is nearer the end of the treadle, and 
instead of the top strap passing round the roller from the back, it 



95 



88 



WEAVING. 



goes over the front of the roller, and is fastened to the small set 
collar. Being arranged in this manner, as one treadle is depressed 
the strap that is connected with that treadle is unwound from the 
collar, while the strap attached to the harness that is connected with 
the raised treadle is wound on the collar. This order is carried out 
while the loom is in motion. 

Cams Adapted to Different Kinds of Work. There are four 
kinds of cams : the eccentric or 



circular cam, i dwell cam,. J- dwell 



cam, |- dwell cam. 



and |- used with 




Fig. 55. Circular Cams. 



The i ^ 
reference to these cams means 
that that portion of a revolution 
of the crank shaft is allowed in 
each case for the harness to dwell 
or to be practically stationary. 

Fig. 55 shows a cam that 
is not very extensively used, as 
it requires great skill on the part 
of the fixer to handle it in the 
loom, for all working parts must 
be timed to exactness. As will 
be noticed by the shape of the 

cam, there is no dwell or rest of the harnesses ; they are constantly 
moving, but there is also the least possible strain on the yarn, for 
there is no quick movement to be made in order to make up for a 
rest at some part of the revolution. The tenderest and finest of 
yarns can be woven by such cams, but it is necessary, unless a very 
small shuttle is used, to have a little larger shed so that the shuttle 
will go through on time. This shows where the skill in fixing is re- 
quired; the setting of the pick motion must be in perfect time 
with the shed, so that the shuttle will not rub unduly against the 
selvedge threads. 

Fig. 56 shows a cam with a dwell of |- the revolution of the 
crank chaft. Under ordinary circumstances this is about the short- 
est dwell that can practically be used, and then only when the 
commonest grades of cloth are being woven and with poor yarns 
that it is used m the loom. If it is not in good time with the 



96 




& 
a 

< 

H 
< 

Oh 

en 

o 
as o 



or kH 

S 
o 
o 

l-H 

H 

m 

X 



WEAVING- 



89 



pick motion there will be poor selvedges, the threads breaking fre- 
quently; also more power is required to drive the shuttle across the 
lay, for on coarse cloths a large shuttle is necessary in order to hold 
a reasonable amount of filling. 

A very practical cam one-half dwell, is shown at Fig. 57, and 
which is applicable to almost all cases. It gives ample time for 
the shuttle to go through the shed, the change of the harness is not 
as sudden as to unduly strain the yarn, the timing of the shed can 




Fig. 56. Plain Cam, j^ Dwell. 

also be changed to suit the different cloths that are made, and still 
further, a cloth can be made of which one side is softer than the other. 
The filling thus becomes more prominent on one side than the other. 
This is known as " cover" on cloth. 

A cloth with cover has a more finished appearance on one side 
than the other. It also has a softer feel on one side, because the fill- 
ing predominates on that side. This apparently small matter does 
not receive the attention it should, but it can be unhesitatingly 
stated that a cloth with cover is of greater value than a bare or ordi- 
nary cloth, though both may be of the same structure. Whether 
the cloth is to be printed on one side before it is sold over the 



99 



90 



WEAVING. 



counter, napped ■ on one side, or sold as bleached or gray calico, its 
value will be increased because the printed figure will show better, 
the nap or fuzz will be longer, and the cloth will be more pleasing 
to the eye and the touch when the buyer examines it. 

Fig. 58 shows a cam that is used principally on broad looms, and 
then only when the warp is made of strong yarn, for as this cam 
causes a long dwell of the harness, there must necessarily be a very 
quick change to compensate for the time expended. This sudden 
strain on the yarn plucks it somewhat, and would cause soft yarns to 
break. If the sizing compound has not laid the fibres properly the 




Fig. 57. riain Cams, >^ Dwell. 

yarn sometimes clings to the shed ; to overcome this, a two-thirds 
cam is used, because the sudden opening of the shed draws the ends 
apart. The yarn should have been made from good stock or it will 
not stand this extra strain. 

Result of Unequal Cams. If the stroke of the cam. or the 
amount of lift given to the harnesses, is not considered when chang- 
ing from one fabric to that of an entirely different nature, in point 
of coarseness or fineness of yarns, the result will be disastrous. The 
cams are either too large or too small, straining the yarn by too large 
a shed, or making poor cloth by having too small a shed. If the 



100 



WEAVING. 



91 



shed is too large there is too much friction in the working parts of 
the shedding motion, and the loom requires more power to drive it. 
When the shed is too small the shuttle tlies out frequently, the 
cloth is rough looking because the filling cannot be drawn through 
properly, and bunches up in the shed ; the selvedges are also very 
poor on this account. 

The reason for changing cams is obvious ; when weaving fine 
yarns or using fine filling, the smallest shuttle that can be used prac- 
tically in the loom is the best, for a smaller shed can be made, and 
the finer filling is generally spun on a small bobbin or a small 




Fig. 58. Plain Cam, % Dwell. 

cop. The finer the yarn the greater the quantity that can be placed 
in a given space. When coarse filling is used it is best to have as 
large a shuttle as possible in order that the loom may run a longer 
time without changing for a fresh bobbin. If the cop or bobbin 
were only large enough to fit a shuttle 1^ X l^ inches, the loom 
would run but a few minutes before more fillmg were required, thus 
causing a greater percentage of stoppages than necessary. This, of 
course, means a loss of production. A decided advantage is to be 
gained by changing the shuttle to suit the fabric that is being woven, 



XOl 



92 WEAVING. 



provided there is a considerable difference in the counts of yarn. If 
coarse yarns of a fairly good quality are being woven, it is far better 
to invest in a few shuttles that are 1|- X If, and that will hold a 
7-inch bobbin, than to use smaller shuttles that will only hold a 6|- 
inch bobbin. The increase of running time for the loom will more 
than compensate for the cost of the shuttles. So with the changing 
to the smaller one, if finer yarns are being woven, the smaller shuttle 
will travel more freely through the shed, consequently less power is 
required to drive the shuttle. 

Relation of the Treadle Bowl to the Cam. The treadle bowl 
plays an important part in correct treading. The size of the bowl 
will cause the yield of an even or uneven cloth in proportion to the 
cam. It also has an influence on the weaving of the yarn. When 
a small bowl is used the harness always jumps, or, in other words 
does not run smoothly. This is anything but desirable, because the 
yarn is plucked and this frequently causes thin places in the cloth. 
A small bowl is as bad as a rusty bowl or a worn plug (wood plugs 
are sometimes used on looms in place of the iron bowl) these being 
two of the worst features met with when shedding by means of 
cams. The defect arising from a small bowl becomes very conspicu- 
ous when there is a large boss on the cam, i.e., the portion that en- 
circles the shaft. This causes a too pronounced depression on the 
cam where the rise commences ; the small bowl drops into this, and 
their is a slight locking of the motion, which causes a jump. 

A small bowl also shows its defect when the cam is made with 
a steep or quick rise ; instead of the speed being gradually developed, 
there is a quick and sudden turn from the rise of the cam to the 
dwell. 

A bowl of 1^ or 1 inch radius gives the best results, that is, 
for an outside or negative cam, but for a shell cam the size of the 
bowl is governed by the size of cam, leverage of the harness lever, 
and space at the loom, although on some looms the bowl is so small 
that one can see the harness lever jump. A small bowl and the 
stud on which it rests in a shell cam do not last half the time they 
should, both frequently wearing out. When they are worn, poor 
shedding is sure to follow, and also added strain on the straps or 
cords that connect the harnesses to the levers ; for as the harness is 
actually controlled by the bowl and stud working in the lines of the 



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93 



cam, there is a loss of lift when the harness is raised, and a loss in 
depression. To overcome these losses it is common to tighten the 
connections ; but no matter how much they are tightened, there is 
never as good a shed as when the bowl and stud are in good condi- 
tion. 

rieasurements of Shed. Before constructing a cam it is well 
to determine the amount of stroke required to lift the harnesses the 
requisite number of inches (Fig. 59.) If the harnesses are to be 
hfted 4 inches, what stroke of cam would be required ? 




Fig. 59. Measurement of Shed. 

Length of treadle from pin A to point of connection of harness 
strap B, is 24 inches. Pin A to treadle bowl C, 15 inches ; required 
lift of the harness so as to give that space in the harness at D, 4 
inches. 

Eule : To find length of stroke, multiply the distance between 
the treadle bowl and the pin by the requisite distance at the front 
harness between its eyes when raised and the depressed portion 
of the warp to give a certain amount of shed; divide the above by 



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the length of the treadle between the pin and the point of connec- 
tion of the harness strap. 

15 X 4 



24 



•21" 



The cam should have a 2i inch stroke. 

To find the size of shed where shuttle passes through, using 
the above dimensions, proceed as follows (Fig. 59) : Have the lay on 
the back center, and measure the distance from the top front of 
shuttle to the fell of cloth, F to G, also the distance from front har- 
ness to fell of cloth, H to G. 

A to B 24^^ X stroke of cam 2^ X F to GS^" _^„ 
A to C 15" X H to G 7" 

Therefore 2 inches is the size of shed where the shuttle passes 
through, but as about | inch is allowed for the stretching of the 
straps, and as the motion is often set so that the treadle bowl is not 
fully in contact with the depression of the cam, this causes the shed 
to be only about 1^ inches by actual measurement in the loom. 
What is the stroke (of cam) required for a certain size of shuttle ? 
Shuttle 1|- inches wide, 1^ inches deep. Lay moves back 5 inches. 
Front harness to fell of cloth 7 inches. Length of treadle 24 inches. 
Pin to treadle bowl 15 inches. 

Eule. Subtract the width of shuttle from the distance the lay 
moves back. Then multiply the distance of front harness from fell 
of cloth by depth of shuttle (allowing for the loss in the stretching 
of the straps, etc., | inch), and divide by the remainder in the former 
subtraction. Multiply this result by length of treadle from pin 
to bowl, and divide by length of treadle. Kesult : stroke of cam 
required. 

A 5" — 1^" = 3i" 

B Adding the |" stretch of strap 1" X 2" -^ 31 = 4 
C 15 X 4 ^ 24 = 21 ; 21" stroke of cam. 

CONSTRUCTION OF CAMS. 

Fig. 60 shows the construction of a cam with a 21-inch stroke. 
The stroke means the distance the cam moves the treadle at that 
point where it comes in contact with the treadle bowl. In the con- 
struction of cams approximate distances are used, but they are taken 
from those most generally used. 



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95 



Dimensions for Fig. 60, a cam for making plain cloth, are as 
follows: Center of shaft (the shaft on which the cam is set) to near- 
est point of contact of the cam with the treadle bowl, 1| inches. 
Dwell to be one-half the revolution of crank shaft. 

Describe the first circle, with radius of 1| inches ; add to this 
1 inch, the radius of treadle bowl, and which will be the center of 
movement of the treadle bowl in marking off the shape of the cam; 
add to these the stroke of cam 2^ inches. There are now three 
circles. 




Fig. 60. Plain Cam. 

To make plain cloth tv/o cams are necessary, the pattern being 
made on two picks. Whatever number of picks there are to be to 
the pattern, there must be as many cams to the round, or one revo- 
lution of the cam shaft. Sometimes when weaving fancy cloth 
more harnesses are required to make the pattern than there are picks 
in the pattern, and there must be a cam for each harness, yet the 
cam shaft makes but one revolution to one repeat of the pattern. 
Plain cloth is almost always woven with two harnesses, and when 



105 



96 WEAVING. 



four are used two are fixed together, these being controlled by one 
treadle and one cam. The three circles described must be divided 
into as many parts as there are picks in the pattern, but when each 
end in the pattern is lifted or depressed in the same manner to form 
the pattern, only one cam need be constructed to show what is re- 
quired for the rest. Whenever one or more threads interweave dif- 
ferently from the rest, a cam must be constructed for each different 
set of threads. This is shown in the different figures of constructed 
cams. 

The diagram shows that both threads are to be woven in a 
similar manner, but that one thread is up when the other is down, 
thus requiring the setting of one cam opposite the other, as shown 
in Fig. 54. The vertical marks show how the ends are to be lifted ; 
the horizontal lines show how the filling is placed in the warp. 
Eead the diagram or design from bottom to top, and construct the 
cam accordingly. As there are two picks to the pattern, divide the 
circles in two parts, one part for one pick, one part for the other 
pick (Fig. 61). 

The dwell required is now partitioned off. The dwell, whether 
it is ^, ^, or I", must be divided from each individual part, and the 
center of these parts must also be divided. One-half dwell is re- 
quired : divide each part into four ; take the two center ones, leaving 
a quarter on each side. The remaining quarter left on the side of each 
dwell portion must now be divided into three equal parts ; the two 
quarters coming together, show them to be divided into six equal parts. 
(Fig. 62). The reason for taking up the portions that are left after 
the dwell is marked off, is that in the shedding, one harness is being 
raised while the other is being depressed ; the cams must be con- 
structed in such a manner that a portion of the rise of one will over- 
lap a similar portion of the depression of the other. After dividing 
the portions mentioned into six equal parts, the space between the 
outer circle and the radius of the treadle bowl must be divided into 
six unequal parts, commencing in the center, and having the two 
largest spaces on either side, the succeeding ones becoming smaller 
as they near the circles. (Fig. 66). This method of construction 
gives a quick start to the harness, then gradually slows down when 
nearing the dwell, and yet performs the motion without sudden 
jumps. Figs. 63, 64 and 65 refer to various dwells. 



106 




o 
m 

H ^ 

a ° 

o o 

^ 3 

H '^ 

^ «! 

O ^ 



WEAVING. 



97 




Fig. 61. Construction of Cams. 




Fig. 62. Diagram for % Dwell. 



107 



98 WEAVING. 



To obtain the six unequal parts, describe a half-circle between 
the two outer circles, and divide this half-circle into six parts. As 
each point of division is considered as a part of the circumference of 
a circle whose center is the same as the center of the outer circles, 
this will give, as shown in the sketch, six unequal parts, D. When 
this has been accomplished make half-circles or circles the size of the 
radius of the treadle bowl. Start these circles at the point marked 
E, and continue to describe them at the further corner, advancing 
towards the outer circle. Also construct several circles on the out- 
side circle, and follow down on the opposite side, until opposite the 
starting point. These circles represent the treadle bowl passing 
round the cam. After the circles have been described, draw a thick 
line inside and just touching the circles, and also make the outer 
portion of the inside circle deeper, so as to correspond with the thick 
outline which represents the cam. 

In brief, the construction is as follows : Describe the circle 
according to dimensions given. Divide these into as many parts as 
there are picks in the pattern. Subdivide each portion of the dwell 
required, having the dwell in the center, and the remaining portions 
left from each dwell divide into three equal parts, bringing six parts 
together. Again divide the space from the outer circle to the radius 
of the treadle bowl into six unequal parts with the widest in the 
center, narrowing down the spaces to the outer and inner circles. 
Describe the radius of the treadle bowl at the opposite corners of the 
divisions, starting at the inside circle for the treadle bowl, and passing 
to the outside circle. Finish by making the thick line representing 
the cam, touching the inside of the circles. 

To obtain the best results, it is conceded by the majority of 
those who understand cam shedding, that one cam should be a trifle 
larger than the other in the stroke, and the other cam larger in the 
depression or smallest part. This is owing to the method of con- 
necting the harness straps with the treadles (see Fig. 54). The 
treadle at the point of connection with the front harness strap de- 
scends lower and also rises higher than the other treadle connection 
which would mean, if equal cams were used, a higher lift of the front 
harness ; whereas the law of shedding demands that the back har- 
ness have the greatest amount of movement, on account of its being 
a greater distance from where the shuttle passes through the shed. 



)08 



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99 




Fig. 63. Diagram for ]4 Dwell. 




Fig. 64. Diagram for % Dwell. 



100 



100 WEAVING. 



To give the correct shed, the larger cam controls the treadle for the 
back harness, and the cam with the largest depression is placed over 
the front-harness treadle. The front harness is also connected with 
the smallest set collar on the harness roller. 

When the back-harness treadle is pressed down by the larger 
cam, the front-harness treadle is raised. This would give a very large 
lift to this harness, owing to the connecting point, if it were not for 
the larger depression and the smaller set collar. When the front- 
harness treadle is depressed by the smaller cam the connecting point 
descends lower, consequently the back harness is raised higher. The 
strap of this harness is connected with the large set collar. The back 
cam is generally made i of an inch larger in stroke, and the front 
cam 4 inch larger in the depression. When any changes are being 
made, it is necessary that care should be taken in setting the cams 
in the right manner, or very poor and uneven shedding will be the 
result. 

There are three different methods of setting the shedding mo- 
tion ; namely, first, having the back harness raised when picking 
from the left-hand side of the loom, no matter whether it is a right 
or a left-hand loom ; second, having the back harness raised when 
picking from the box opposite the filling stop-motion, or shipper- 
handle side ; third, having the back harness lifted when picking from 
the shipper-handle side. In some mills there is no system whatever, 
the only requirement being that the large cam is on the back treadle. 
The latter scheme is not commendable, for any one of the three 
methods, among which there is scarcely any choice, is preferable to 
no system. 

There are three essentials for good shedding ; namely, harness 
roller level, having the set screws parallel from back to front, F' F, 
(Fig. 67) ; harnesses level, E ; treadles level, B. When the reed is 
about 2 inches from the fell of the cloth, and the crank shaft is in 
the position shown at D (Fig. 67), the three parts mentioned should 
be level. But whether the shed is level at the fell of cloth, or three 
inches back, the three essentials must be attended to or the result 
will be unequal shedding ; for if the treadles and harnesses are level, 
and the set screws on the harness roller are not parallel, one strap 
will wind on the other when the shed is wide open, and the other 
strap will not wind round far enough. The result is uneven shed- 



110 



WEAVING. 



101 




Fig. 65. Second Step in Building >2 Dwell Cam. 




Fig. 66. Construction Lines, 



111 



102 



WEAVING. 



ding and a jump to the harnesses. If any one of the three parts is 
not level when the rest are, the results are uneven cloth, yarn broken 
out, and very poor shedding. A greater or a smaller number of 
picks can be placed in the cloth, according to the way in which the 
harnesses are set. With a shed level when the reed is from two to 
three inches from the fell of the cloth, the shed is more open when 
the beating up takes place, consequently the picks are held more 
firmly in the cloth and are beaten up closer, and, moreover, there is 




Fig. 67. Position of Cam When Shed is Closed. 

only one pick to beat up at a time ; but with a shed which is not so 
open, the picks are not held firmly, and spring back so that the lay 
has to beat up several at one time. This makes it impossible to 
have as heavy a cloth as in the former case. , 

When setting the harnesses, before the yarn is tied to the apron 
or leader, they should be in such a position as to allow the yarn to 
rest upon the race when the shed is first opened, because when the 
filling is put in the shed it is closed, and this lifts the yarn up from 
the race plate. Thus, if the harnesses are set high at first, they have 
to be changed as soon as the filling is placed in the shed. 



H? 



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103 



Fig. 68 shows a loom with the cams fixed at the side of the 
loom. The harnesses are connected with the quadrant lever, which 
is fixed to the supporting bar. A small arm is fixed to the back of 
the supporting bar, but at one end. A rod connects the arm with 
the treadle. The cams are on a sleeve, placed on the pick cam shaft, 
and to the sleeve a large gear is attached. In the diagram this gear 
has 120 teeth. A gear with 30 teeth is fixed on the crank shaft. 




Fig. 68. Loom with Cams ou the Sides. 

and through an intermediate it imparts motion to the cam gear. 
This gearing is set for a four-harness twill, whether one up and three 
down, or two up and two down. (See cam in Fig. 69.) 

As explained in the construction of cams, one revolution of the 
cam equals the number of picks to the pattern ; so that the gear 
fixed to the crank shaft must divide as many times in the large gear 
as there are picks to the pattern : 120-^30 =4. This is one of 
the simplest motions for shedding by means of cams, and is very 
easily fixed. It is in direct contrast to the roll-top motion shown in 
Figs. 70 and 71. The least change on any harness in this motion 
alters the' rest, for owing to the method of connecting the harnesses 
they are dependent upon each other. 



113 



104 



WEAVING. 



The rollers are made with different circumferences. The smaller 
rollers are rather small, and would be far better if they were larger 
in proportion to the lift, because the strap winds on itself when the 
harness is lifted, with the res.ult that there is a constant jumping of 
the harnesses. This is of course detrimental, especially to fine yarns, 
for when the strap unwinds it is almost pulled off the roller. Some- 
times the straps do come off and drop on the yarn. The cams are 




■ ■■_■ 

■ !_■! 

"■11 _■■! 

■ ■■■_ 



Fig. 69. Four Harness Twill Cam. 

graded, the smallest having 1|- inches stroke, the largest 2| inches 
stroke. It requires a considerable amount of skill in the setting of 
these motions, but when they are set they give fair results. Yet 
the time spent in setting is not balanced by these results. When 
compared with the motion in Fig. 68, it is seen that one is placed 
inside of the loom and out of the way, while the other is outside the 
loom and apparently requires a greater amount of space ; yet the 
outside motion is out of the way, being behind the box, and is cer- 
tainly much easier to get at. 



I !4 




IS O 



WEAVING. 



105 



The cams for the roll top motion are fixed on an auxiliary shaft 
and the shaft receives motion from the pick cam shaft. The same 
rule applies when calculating the gears that drive the cams, except 





6 





Q 




6666 

Fig. 70. Roller Motion. 

taking into consideration the shaft from which the power is derived. 
The pick cam shaft travels half the speed of the crank shaft, so that 
two picks of the pattern are placed in the cloth while the pick cam 
shaft revolves once; thus the gear fixed to the shaft must contain 



JJ7 



106 



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two and one-half times less teeth than the gear on the shedding cam 
shaft, that is, for a five end satin or twill cloth. (See Fig. 72.) 

If there is a gear of 70 teeth on the shedding cams, and a gear 
of 35 teeth, one-half the size, is placed on the pick cam shaft, the 
cams would travel at the rate of one revolution to four of the crank 
shaft, which would leave one pick out of the pattern. But if a 28- 
tooth gear drives the 70, there would be one revolution of the cams 
to five of the crank shaft. 

I 












B 










■ 










■ 






■ 












■ 














■ 




■ 












■ 






1 










B 











Fig. 72. Harness Sateen or Twill Cam. 

Example. There is a 30 driving gear on the crank shaft, im- 
parting motion to a 60 gear on the pick cam shaft; a 28 gear on 
this shaft drives a 70 on the shedding cam shaft. 

If there is a four-pick pattern, what number of teeth should the 
gear contain using three of the above gears ? 

Ans. A 56 on the shedding cam shaft. 

THE PICKING nOTION. 

This is the motion that consumes about y^of the power required 
to drive an ordinary easily running loom. A careful overseer or 



ii8 



WEAVING. 



107 



fixer should see that this motion is giving the best results for the 
power expended. It is a very easy matter for the pick motion to be 
so fixed that the loom actually takes ^ horse-power more to run it 
than would be necessary if the motion were set correctly. 

As already stated, some fixers believe that the pick motion 
causes the uneven movement of the lay. It is undoubtedly a fact 
•that through the faulty setting of the pick motion the lay is checked; 




Fig. 73. Diagram Showing the Setting of Pick Motion. 

but if the motion is understood, together with the reason for the 
shapes of its various parts, there can be little or no perceptible 
check on the lay. The placing of the hand on the lay cap is one of 
the best ways of telling whether or not the pick is working at its 
best. The pick motion is, or ought to be, constructed in such a man- 
ner as to give a gradual development of speed as in Fig. 73 ; starting 
slowly, gradually increasing the speed, until as the shuttle is leaving 
the binder the full power is applied. Such motions give the best 



118 



108 WEAVING. 



results, fewer supplies are used, and the loom lasts longer. To thor- 
oughly understand why this is better the following explanations are 
given : 

In the first place the shuttle is held in a confined space by 
pressure applied through the binder ; no matter what style of binder 
is used, the pressure remains on the shuttle for a shorter or longer 
period of time. This being so, it is utterly impossible to give a 
sudden blow to the confined body, namely, the shuttle, and then 
have it enter the opposite box in the manner in which it should,' 
that is, slide in straight without striking the front entrance of this 
box. Of course it is taken for granted that the student is aware of 
the fact that a shuttle box is a trifle wider than the shuttle, and 
that there is no confining of the shuttle from the time it has left the 
binder until it has reached the shed formed by the yarn. As a proof 
of the foregoing statements, the following test is presented : Observe 
two looms, one with a quick, hard pick, the other such as the one 
already described, and compare the shuttles after six months' run- 
ning. On the latter, the shuttles will be smooth, and in almost as 
good condition as when they were first used, excepting, of course, the 
natural wear ; whereas, in the former, the shuttles will have been 
chipped to a greater or less degree, caused by their flying out or be- 
ing driven hard into t?he opposite box. Another proof : Suppose a 
shuttle does not get wholly into the box, but stops a short distance 
from the picker, and yet is in far enough to keep the loom running ; 
under these circumstances, one can hear the shuttle rattle in the 
opposite box, striking where it should not, or else see it thrown out 
of the shed. This is caused not altogether by the shuttle being a 
short distance from the picker, but mainly because the power has 
been suddenly applied to the shuttle, and it has received a jar that 
is not beneficial to its correct running. 

Some fixers who have charge of looms on which the picking 
shoes have a long sweep, set the ball so that it will strike the shoe 
half-way up the incline, or, in other words, at the commencement of 
the steepest part of the shoe, with the result that there are innumer- 
able smashes caused by the shuttle becoming chipped, the spindle 
stud constantly wearing out, and the binder never giving good re- 
sults, because of the pin becoming worn. The same results follow 
to a greater or less degree on the " Cone Pick " : if the cone is set 



120 




DOBBY LOOM WITH NORTHROP FILLING SUPPLY 

Mason Machine Co. 



WEAVING. 



109 



down on the back, or if the shaft is set in too close to the pick cam, 
or, as sometimes happens, the cone is out of proportion to the pick- 
point. In view, then, of the above-mentioned facts, and the adoption 
of the shape of binder recommended, the best results are undoubt- 




Fig. 74. Cone Pick Motion. 

edly obtained by applying the power gradually, so that by the time 
the full force is acting on the shuttle, it will be leaving the binder, 
and yet the binder will have helped to keep the shuttle in contact 
with the back of the box, so that if guided straight from the first, 
there is no reason why it should not run into the opposite box cor- 



123 



110 WEAVING. 



rectly, unless something is out of order apart from the pick motion. 
Cone 'pick and attendant parts, Fig. 74. 

A. Pick cam fixed on a pick-cam shaft. 

B. Pick Shaft, which is held in position against the side of the loom. 

C. Pick Cone supi:>orted on stud fixed to the pick shaft. 

D. Picking arm, fixed at the opposite end of the pick shaft, and which 
descends. 

E. Dog, placed at the lower end of the picking airm. 

F. Picking stand, fixed to the rocker shaft. 

G. Picking Shoe, rests on the picking stand. 
G^. Tongue fixed to the shoe. 

H. Picking stick fixed to the picking shoe, and which passes through 
the stand. 

K. Heel strap which connects the picking stick to the spring K^. 

L. Short lug strap. 

L^. Long lug strap. 

\?. Sweep, or power stick; the ends of the lug straps are connected to 
the power stick ; the short lug passing around the inside of the dog, 
and the long lug passing around the picking stick. 

M. Stirrup strap ; this strap keeps the long lug in position on the stick. 

N. Picker fixed on the top portion of the picking stick. 

The cone pick is undoubtedly one of the best picking motions 
for single box looms. Apart from the special cams already spoken 
of, the cam described in Fig. 75 is the best one that can be recom- 
mended: it gives the easiest possible stroke, and less power is 
required to drive the loom; the loom also runs easier than if it 
were fitted with a pick cam such as shown in Fig. 76. 

Fig. 75 shows a cam with different diameters; that is, instead 
of being circular up to the pick point, it is cut off, commencing a 
little below the back center, almost to the beginning of the pick 
point; about one inch is taken off at the smallest diameter. This 
shape of cam gives a gradual development of power, which, as 
already explained, is preferable to the sudden blow. Instead of the 
cone suddenly meeting the point, it is first lowered, then gradually 
raised. 

The shape of the pick point enters very largely into considera- 
tion in determining the value of the pick motion. The cam may be 
of good shape and size, but if the pick point is too abrupt, the hol- 
low too much defined, or the extreme end of the point too narrow 
and receding, the results are as bad as from an imperfectly con- 
structed cam. The abrupt point gives a very harsh, hard finish to 



124 



WEAVING. 



Ill 



the pick, tending to throw the shuttle crookedly. The hollow being 
too well defined tends to lock the cone, giving a jump to the motion 
which often breaks the picking shaft ; the pick cam is also some- 
times loosened by this fault, and such a point requires more power 
behind the motion. When the extreme point is too narrow and 
receding, a soft piclv is the result (not an easy pick), lacking the firm 
finish to the motion ; such pick points frequently cause trouble, for 
the loom bangs off at the least change of atmosphere. The best 
pick point is the one that is at least 1^ inches at the end, with the 




-a--H 



r^ — 2i" — A 




Fig. 75. Dimensions of Cam and Cone. 

extreme inside edge about | inches higher than the other edge, and 
slightly inclined backwards. It would do no harm to have the 
point 2 inches in width at the extreme end. 

A large cam gives better results than a small one, as the cone 
fits better, and a smaller and better shaped pick point can be used : 
it is unnecessary, also, to have the point so much depressed. The 
diagram given in Fig. 76, illustrates one of the best cams of this type. 

Almost invariably with a cam of this nature, a large pick 
point is used, and to correspond with it a very large cone is neces- 
sary, which means the expenditure of more power when in motion. 
If the outer end of the cone is considerably lower than the shaft, 
it is not an advantage, especially with such a large pick point, as 



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112 



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it must of necessity give a hard pick, beside requiring more power 
to lift it. 

Relation of the Cone Pitch. Unless the conp is in proper 
proportion to the cam, uneven picking will follow. If the cone is 
too small, it locks in the hollow of the pick point ; if it is not tapered 
to the right pitch, only a small portion of the cone is in contact 
with the cam. If it is too large, it does not enter the hollow of the 
cam, and a sudden motion is the result. For the best results, the 
cone should be set between the back and top centers of the cam, but 




Fig. 76. Circular Pick Cam. 

slightly inclined to the top. If too near the top of the cam when 
motion is imparted to it, the cone slides away from the point, and 
does not receive the firm blow that gives a good pick. When 
placed toward the back center of the cam, the point locks on the 
cone with very poor results. The cone ought to extend over the 
edge of the cam, when resting on the back center, at least three- 
quarters of an inch ; the top of the cone should be almost level at 
this point, so that when the cam works around, all, or almost all, of 
the outer end of the cone will be in contact with the point. 

Dogs on Picking Arms. There are three distinct kinds- of 



126 



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113 



dogs used on the picking arms; (Fig. 77) A, B, C. A is certainly 
the better; there is almost a straight pull on the lug strap, which 
means that the strap will last longer. B and C cause the 
straps to crack and break on the edge, because all the power is 
exerted at one point, instead of at the full width of the leather. 




Fig. 77. Picking Dogs. 

Lug straps will last ten times longer by the use of A than they will 
by using B or C. 

Picking Stand and Shoe. This is called the Stearns parallel 
motion. When fixing the picker stand to the rocker shaft, care 
should be taken to see that the picking stick moves freely' in the 
box, changing the motion of the lay to test this. The stand can be 
fixed while the lay is on the front center ; when it passes to the 
back center, if there is a slight binding of the picking stick, it will 
influence to a marked degree the running of the shuttle. Several 



1^7 



114 WEAVING. 



bad effects result from the poor fixing of the stand. Unless it is set 
in the right position, the shoe will not work parallel to or flat on the 
stand, with the result that as the picking takes place, the edge of 
the shoe instead of the sole is working : this causes a slight twist of 
the picking stick, which eventually throws the shuttle crookedly 
across the lay, beside requiring more power to drive the stick, owing 
to its binding in the race. If the shoe is allowed to work in this 
manner for a short time, a ridge is worn on the projection fixed to 
the stand, so that occasionally the shoe rides on this ridge, and 
causing the stick to jump, suddenly raises the shuttle on the back, 
thereby cutting the filling, and sometimes throwing out the shuttle. 
A small plug of wood or iron is driven into the stand, the outer end 
acting as the fulcrum for the tongue G^. This plug, when made 
of wood, is likely to be driven in crookedly, and, if this is the case, 
the results are almost identical with those which come from the 
incorrect setting of the stand. The crooked plug twists the picking 
stick, throwing the back of the shuttle either too far from the 
back of the box or into the box back, forcing the front end of 
the shuttle out from the reed, thus causing a crooked running shut- 
tle or a flying one. 

If properly made and handled, the wood plug is undoubtedLy 
better than the iron one, for it is easier as a friction point on the 
tongue. Wood plugs cost very little because they are generally 
made from scrap timber, yellow pine being preferred. They are cut 
so that the tongue rubs against the grain. These plugs should be 
kept in oil, when it is remarkable how long they will last. Wood 
is preferable to iron, owing more or less to the careless handling of 
looms by weave-room help. There are careless weavers in every 
mill, and many of them rarely oil the picking stand, so that there is 
a natural tendency for the friction point between tongue and plug 
to become dry. If the plug is iron, it becomes rusty, causing the 
stick to jump, but the wood plug yields to the action of the iron 
tongue. It takes a long time for a wood plug to become dry, if it 
has been thoroughly soaked in oil before being placed in the stand, 
and the constant friction makes the end of the wood very smooth. 
A wood plug will last almost as long as an iron plug, with the 
advantage that the tongue is very little worn. 

Whatever kind of motion is in use, whether as already described. 



128 



WEAVING. 



115 




&0 



(O-, 



a 



129 



116 



WEAVING. 



or as shown in Figs. 78 and 79, the two points must be set as 
straight as possible, in order to avoid a twisted picking stick. 

The mechanism, shown in Figs. 78 and 79 has somewhat of a 
rocking motion, and is used very extensively on Mason looms. It is 
claimed for this style of shoe that it will stand a high rate of speed. 
The rest of the motion is similar to Fig. 74. 

Setting of the Picking Stick and its Connections. There are 
two distinct ways of setting the picking 
stick : the first as shown in Fig. 74 ; the 
second as in Fig. 74, B', having the bottom of 
the picking from |" to 1^" higher than 
shown. 

The first is considered better. Set the 
stick so that it will be about i" above the 
level of the heel strap K, or so that the 
bottom of the stick is not below the level. 
This is what is termed a controlled picking 
stick ; that is, when the strap is connected 
to the stick and attached to the spring in 
the right manner, after motion has been ap- 
plied to the stick it will return almost to 
the end of the box. This necessitates, in all 
probability, the use of a check spring, or a 
double piece of leather, but the cost of either 
of these is small in comparison to the gain. 
(The chapter on binders should be studied 
in connection with this portion of the pick- 
ing motion, as both enter into very close re- 
lationship, for understanding one without 
the other destroys the possibility of the 
best results.) When the stick is fixed in 
this manner, in the majority of cases a 
round hole in the picker is formed by the 
shiittle tip striking it. It is a well-known 

fact that a round hole in the picker denotes that the shuttle is 
running correctly, because a round hole cannot occur if there is the 
least tendency for the shuttle to rise. Any rise of the shuttle is 




Fig. 79. Cross Section of 
Picker Stick and Shoe. 



generally caused by its running crookedly from box to box. The 



130 



WEAVING. 117 



picker will last longer if it is being worn as described ; this is the 
first gain. Secondly, the picker band or collar, that fixes the picker . 
to the stick, is rarely loosened on the stick under such setting, 
because the shuttle strikes squarely against the picker. Thirdly, 
there is no possible loss of power as the shuttle is being driven from 
the box; besides, the shuttle is tlirown just as the motion is set to 
throw it ; this is impossible with a picker that has a slot cut in it 
instead of the round hole. 

When a picking-stick is loose in the box, as it invariably is 
when fixed after the second system, it remains from 11- inches to 2i 
inches from the back of the box, consequently, the shuttle must 
drive back the stick to its right position, so as to get the full force 
of the picking motion. The picker, which in the majority of cases 
is made of leather, also receives considerable of the force of the 
shuttle ; this naturally causes the picker to wear out quicker than it 
should ; another disadvantage consists in the shuttle cutting a slot 
in the picker when driving back the stick, because it slides a little 
on the face of it, owing to the picker not being on the same plane 
with the tip of the shuttle, as it is when the stick is back. The 
sliding of the shuttle at this time will often cut the filling, and it 
frequehtly loosens the collar around the picker; a loose picker of 
course is not desirable. When the picking stick is driving out the 
shuttle, the slot already made in the picker by the shuttle, reacts 
on the running of the shuttle. (To understand this clearly refer to 
the binder.) The shuttle is held in the box by pressure from the 
binder ; there is also pressure being applied to the back end of the 
shuttle by the picking stick. Consequently, it is perfectly natural 
under the circumstances that the picker should slide up on the tip of 
the shuttle. This is a loss of power; it may be small, but it is a 
loss, and these small losses count where there are a good many 
looms. There is also a tendency for the shuttle to be down at the 
back, which means either a flat running shuttle or a high front end, 
either position being incorrect fixing. Under these circumstances it 
can readily be seen that the tighter the heel spring is, the more 
power must be applied to drive the picking stick, owing to the 
greater resistance. By the actual setting of the stick in the second 
method, the force of the spring is off when the picking stick is about 
2 inches from the end of the box, so that when movement is given 



131 



118 WEAVING. 



to the stick it travels this distance before it meets with the resistance 
of the spring. The heel spring should be set so that there is just 
sufficient strength on it to pull back the picking stick. 

It has been computed by good authorities that the first setting 
combined with the shape of the binder described requires less power 
from the motion to drive the shuttle across the lay. Some picking 
motions, combined with the style of binder that is used, either neces- 
sitate a swinging picking stick or a very strong check on the end of 
the box. 

Fig. 80 shows a motion that requires the above, but if the 
binder were changed so that there would be more taper and less 
bluntness, the picking stick could be set according to the first 
method, and the results would be considerably better than at present. 
The reason why such setting is demanded on Fig. 80 is because it is 
a blunt pick, the power being applied suddenly, with no gradual 
development of speed ; and to prevent the shuttle driving through the 
end of the box, very strong resistance must be applied. 

Setting of the Connections. After the picking stick has been 
set to the stand and shoe, the lug straps are connected. A sweep 
stick from 6 inches to 7 inches in length is used, to connect the lug 
straps. This stick should be of sufficient thickness, so that when 
the lugs are fixed, there is as much space between the straps as the 
thickness of the picking stick or the width of the dog ; this allows 
perfect freedom. The using of short and long lug straps is simply a 
matter of choice, some preferring to have the straps of equal length, 
while others prefer a short and long lug strap, as is the preference of 
the writer. 

When the dogs B or C are used, (Fig. 77), the inside lug has more 
tendency to break than the outside one, so that if a short lug is used, 
a smaller amount of leather is broken than if the equal lug were 
used. Another advantage is : whatever kind of dog is on this motion 
when a long lug breaiks, it can often be used for a, short lug, 
thereby saving supplies. The dog A, is highly recommended. Its 
value can be seen by a glance at the setting in Fig. 74 : fix the dog 
about I inch from the bottom of the arm, or if it is the same as in 
Fig. 74, fix the extension, which acts as the dog, the same distance 
up from its extreme throw. Connect the lug strap, leaving a clear 
space between the sweep stick and the dog ; otherwise, when the 



132 



WEAVING. 



119 



dog is pulling in the picking stick the sweep will bind on the dog. 
Attach the long lug strap, placing it around the picking stick. 

When attaching the straps place a large washer between the 
head of the bolt and the leather, and also between the nut and 
the leather; these give a better grip on the lug. If the sweep 
stick is a trifle narrower than the picking stick or dog, it would be 
best to place a strip of leather between the sweep and the lug before 
the lugs are bolted to the sweep; otherwise, the picking stick or lug 
will wear the lugs, which should be avoided. When connecting the 
lugs, draw out the picking arm to the furthest point, press the pick- 
ing stick back to the end of the box, and have the lugs and sweep 




Fig. 80. Canvas Drive Picking Motion. 

stick connections about | inch longer than is necessary to taken up 
the space between the stick and the dog. Next attach the stirrup 
strap to the back of the picking stick, and fix it so that the connec- 
tions will be level. An extra hole above and below the one that 
holds the stirrup strap is advisable. Setting the connections in this 
manner gives the most even pull on the straps when it is most 
required, and they last longer on account of the greater surface of 
leather being used. It also allows for a slight change for increasing 
or diminishing the power without materially altering the square pull 
on the lugs. 

The fixing of these parts on an extreme plan is not advisable, 
because extreme changes have to be made whenever a change is 



133 



120 WEAVING. 



necessary. It is sometimes claimed that to fix the lug about 2 inches 
higher than level on the picking stick, and to have the dog at the 
bottom of the picking arm, gives good results, but this method does 
not give as good as with the above setting. In the first place, the 
pull is exerted' near the middle of the stick, and as the shuttle is 
held in the box by the binder, the stick is being pulled against two 
pressure points ; namely, the shuttle and the fulcrum point at the 
bottom ; and as the leverage has been lost through fixing near the 
center of the stick, the stick bends somewhat. This means loss 
of power and has to be overcome by dropping the dog and cone as low 
as possible. When the lugs are fixed below the center to the extent 
as they were fixed above, the result is a vibrating stick, owing to the 
length above the point where the pull is exerted. The stick is often 
broken by both of the extreme settings, and the edge of the lug 
straps are cracked more readily. 

Some makers of looms fix an adjusting screw to the shoe G " 
This is to give increased elevation to the back of the shuttle when it 
is leaving the box; but a number of shoes are designed to give a 
slight elevation without having to adjust any part. They are best 
when made in this manner. If the shoe is not fitted with an ad- 
justing nut, and there is not sufficient elevation to the shuttle, it can 
be obtained by inserting a piece of leather between the shoe and 
stick at the top of the shoe. If, on the other hand, the shuttle is 
elevated at the back when in the box, but is almost flat when leaving 
the box (and this occasionally happens), a piece of leather inserted 
between the tongue and the stick, but at the bottom end, will de- 
crease the elevation at the back, and when leaving the box, increase 
if the best results are desired, say about i inch. This keeps the 
front end of the shuttle down toward the race plate, and it enters the 
shed better, on account of the small space there is at this time. 
Almost invariably the yarn is lower in the shed beyond the temple ; 
the yarn that passes through the temple is also higher up off the 
race plate than the rest of the yarn ; so that if the shuttle were 
running fiat from the box, the ' front end would be guided up too 
much by the higher yarn, and when the shuttle reached the lower 
portion of the shed beyond the temple it would have a tendency to 
fly out. 

The Bat Wing, or Ball and 5hoe Pick. There are several 



134 



WEAVING. 



121 



kinds of picking shoes, but while a long sweep shoe is certainly the 
best, yet it can be carried to such an extreme as to lose its value. 
Fig. 81, which is a shoe with a gradual incline, finishing with the 
point almost perpendicular, is far better than the shoe with the 




Fig. 81. A Correctly Shaped Shoe. 

sliding point, that is, where the ball slides off the top as in ig. 83. 
This loses the essential feature, the firm finished stroke, because the 
ball slides off instead of its forcing the shoe ; the consequence is power 
lost. An end view is shown at Fig. 82. 

The setting of the pick shaft depends on the shape of the shoe, 
but the shoe ought to be of such shape as to allow the pick shaft to 
be set perfectly level. The only case in which one would advocate 
the raising of the back end of the shaft 
is when the shoe has a sliding point, as 
in Fig. 83. This would help the shoe 
in giving a firm stroke to the finish of 
the pick, but even then a little of the 
gradual increase of the speed will be lost, 
because the ball will strike a little higher Fig. 82. 
up on the shoe. If the shaft were low- 
ered at the back, to take off some of 

the harshness of the pick caused by the steep incline of the shoe, 
the result would not only be a sudden sharp pick, but also an uneven 
movement to the picking stick, caused by the ball striking the lower 
point of the shoe, passing over a section without touching the shoe, 
and then coming into contact with the incline ; as the shoe is tilted, 
the ball certainly cannot descend lower than its range. (See Fig. 84.) 

The inclining of the shaft also wears out the power or sweep 
stick quicker than it should be worn, because the stud on the 
picking arm has not a straight pull on the stick. This tilting some- 



/, \^^ 


■w 









Reduced End View 
of Shoe. 



135 



122 



WEAVING. 



times causes the stud of picking arm to break, and frequently the 
short sharp pick causes both the picking arm and the picking stick 
to break. There is nothing better than the shoe that enables the 
shaft to be set perfectly level, for the benefit from the full range of 
the motion is thus obtained. A glance at the shape of shoes shown 
in Eigs. 81, 83, and 84 will demonstrate this point. 




Fig. 83. Old Style Shoe. 

The best setting for the shoe .shown at A in Fig. 85 is here 
given. Examine the shoes and see there are no burrs on the inside ; 
that is, on the part that fits on the shaft ; it is also well to examine 
that portion of the picking arm, for the shoe and arm should fit 
squarely on the shaft, so that when the set screws are tightened, the 




Fig. 84. Shape of Shoe Given an Abrupt Motion. 

boss will grip the shaft. If these- preliminaries are not attended to the 
shoes and arms are frequently becoming loose, causing the loom to bang 
off. Set the shaft B in the brackets, and have the shaft free ; i.e., no 
binding in any part. If using an adjustable picking arm C, as is com- 
mon on the narrower looms, have the arm at least half an inch below 
the bracket, so that there is room in which to increase the power if 
desired, without altering any part of the motion. Set the lug straps 
on the picking stick in a straight line with the arm. If it is a solid 



186 



WEAVING. 



123 



arm, set the lug straps level with that arm, but be careful not to have 
the arm too far forward or toward the front of the loom, because 
when the lay goes back, the stick will bind on the stud and either 
break the stud or the arm. When the crank shaft is a little over 
the top center going back, have the sweep stick in a straight line 
from the picking stick to the arm. Set the shoe so that when 
glancing down into the loom the top point of the shoe will stand 
back from the pick cam shaft a quarter to a half an inch. Set the 
range of the ball D, to meet this, and have the ball sweep up the 
whole of the shoe. The best possible results are obtained from the 
above setting. 





A dC 



Fig. 85. Bat Wing Picking Motion. . 

The reason why no rule in regard to the number of inches from 
back girth to shoe has been given (though some claim it is best) 
is because no two makes of looms are alike, and to fix the shoe 7^- 
inches from the socket, would result in having the shoe too far 
from the range of the ball, or too close to the ball, either case being 
detrimental to good picking. 

Owing to the peculiar shape of the shoe, a stroke is obtained 
slow at first, but gradually increasing in speed and finishing with 
firmness. If the shoe is set too far back, the ball strikes on the 
steepest part of the incline, thus causing a sudden pick, and re- 
quiring more power. The fixer often resorts to the lowering of 
the lug strap on the picking stick which results in a broken pick- 
ing stick, and a crookedly running shuttle. If the shoe is set too 
far in, the motion almost locks, producing an uneven jerky pick 
with loom parts frequently becoming loose and being broken. 

The short range of picking stick which some fixers adopt 



137 



124 WEAVING. 



cannot be too strongly condemned ; it is faulty fixing, and does 
not give the best results. Set the ball and shoe as stated, fix the 
lug strap and sweep stick on a level from picking arm to picking 
stick, and fasten the stirrup strap on the outside of the picking 
stick, but not on the front. Next, turn the loom over and try the 
range, and if there is enough sweep to bring the stick to within 3 
inches or 3i inches of the bunter, the motion is then set to the 
best advantage. 

Study the motion and you will see why the above setting is 
given, as being the better where a rule is necessary. The shaft 
you are gauging by is the one to which the ball is attached ; con- 
sequently that shaft and shoe are relative to each other. 

It is well to have a collar at each end of the bottom or pick 
cam shaft, so as to prevent the shaft from sliding when the pick 
takes place, because power is lost if the shaft moves in the least. 
The teeth on the driving gears are worn more where the pick 
takes place, and where the protector strikes the receiver; so that 
if fixing up an old loom, it is well to turn the gear around to some 
other part of the shaft, for by this means the gear lasts almost 
twice the usual length of time. 

For the plain loom, a bunter can be made from a roll of cloth, 
wound as tightly as possible, then driven into the end of the race ; 
or several pieces of leather nailed together, and phiced in the race 
with the edges facing the picking stick. The picker strikes the 
bunter instead of the solid portion of the end of the race, which 
would very soon break both picker and picking sticks. 

Saving of Pickers. It is sometimes necessary and always 
desirable for fixers to devise ways and means to help in saving 
supplies. The following is a method whereby pickers can be 
made to last a little longer, besides helping to use up the old 
pieces. If there are any rawhide pickers used in the mill, take some 
of the old ones and soften so as to cause that portion wliich passes 
around the spindle to become pliable, and allow its being flattened 
out ; it can then be cut to the same shape as 'a layer of the leather 
picker. Place this on a portion of the old picker and add a layer 
of leather to the front ; these should be made the same thickness, 
of course, as a regular picker. A little glue can be added to join 
the pieces together, and all can be nailed together afterwards. Or 



138 



WEAVING. 125 



take some scrap leather, choose the firmest pieces, and cut them to 
the shape of the picker, and add these to the best part of the old 
one, nailing all together, and you Avill find that there will be a 
considerable saving in pickers. 

Swells or Binders. The term binder or swell is the name 
used to designate the loose portion which holds the shuttle in place 
when in the box. The jjart which a particular binder plays in the 
production of a loom, is not taken sufficiently into account, and 
careful consideration of the following is consequently necessary. 
There are two distinct shapes; we will term them the bow or 
blunted swell, and the gradual tapered swell. 

Front Binders. The first to be considered. Fig. 86, is a swell 
that bulges into the box, and actually closes up the space which 
the shuttle should occupy, and to which it should have almost free 




Fig. 86. BluDt Shaped Binder. 

access ; consequently the shuttle strikes hard against the swell in 
entering. More power is required to drive the shuttle when this 
swell is used, because it comes suddenly in contact with a too 
great resistance. This will in turn cause undue friction on the 
binder pin, also on the protection finger. There are more rebound- 
ing shuttles from the use of blunted swells, than from almost any 
other source. 

There being less space in the box where the shuttle strikes 
the binder, more power must be applied to the pick motion to 
drive it far enough into the box. This sudden jar not only checks 
the shuttle but causes the binder to spring back, when the pres- 
sure releasing the shuttle allows it to shoot into the box, with the 
result that it strikes hard against the picker, forcing the stick 
against the back end of the box, and finally the hard check thus 
received makes the shuttle rebound. The loss incurred through a 



139 



126 



WEAVING. 



rebounding shuttle is well known, consisting of, pickers worn out 
very quickly; filling broken, whether on cop or bobbin; smashes 
often made by the jumping of the shuttle spindle ; poor selyedges 
caused by slack filling • and the loom frequently banging off and 
stopping. Moreover, straight or decent looking shuttles are rarely 
seen on looms that have blunted binders. The face of the shuttle 
is entirely worn away, thus frequently cutting the filling. 

To overcome the faults caused by the swell described, the 
fixer often sets the picking stick so that it stays in the picker race 
about three or four inches from the back end of the box. This is 
a very poor method of remedying the difficulty as shown in the 
section on fixing the picking stick. 

The Gradual Tapered Binder. Fig. 87. This is by far the 
better, and in order to run shuttles correctly and to keep them in 
good condition should be used always. The shuttle instead of 
being jarred when it enters the box, gradually slides in, and by 
the time it has reached the proper point, it has been gradually 
checked, the binder in part acting as the check, as it should. 




Fig. 87. Gradual Tapered Binder. The Better One. 

When. using a tapered binder, it is seldom that a patent check 
is required ; all that is necessary is a double piece of leather at 
the back end of the box. The following should be emphasized : 
The more suddenly the shuttle i's checked as it enters the box, the 
more liability there is of the filling breaking or being cut ; because 
the shuttle not only strikes the binder and is jarred, but the back 
portion of the shuttle comes forward and strikes the front entrance 
of the box. If the lay could be stopped while the shuttle were 
being thrown from box to box, the blunted swell might possibly 
be defended, but even then its utility would be small in compari- 
son to the tapered swell. It is not well under any circumstances 
whatever, to fix a binder so that it checks the shuttle as soon as it 
enters the box, or in other words, never bend the binder as near 



140 



WEAVING. 



12? 



the front end of tlie box us possible, because it is faulty fixing. 
There is not a loom in existence which does not banof off at some 
time, and if it is one where the binder has been fixed in this man- 
ner, and a cloth is being woven anywhere near the full reed space, 
the result will often be a smash, because one end of the shuttle is 
in the shed while the other end is in contact with the binder, and 
has pressed it out just enough to clear the dagger from the i^e- 
ceiver. This means that the loom will run one or more picks, 
and that the shuttle will break the yarn. Sometimes by the above 
method of fixing, the reed will be destroyed, the shuttle chipped, 
or the fillinc!' fork become bent. 



x_ 




Fig. 



Tapered Binder. 



The following system is undoubtedly preferable and should 
be followed closely. Taper the binder, that is, have no hard 
shoulder on it ; and when the shuttle is in the box, have the 
binder grip the shuttle as near the center as possible. This 
method is better because there is no fear of a smash from the shut- 
tle if it is partly in the shed when the loom bangs off ; then there 
is no jar to the shuttle when it enters the box, and the back end 
of the shuttle will not strike the front entrance of the box. Fig. 
88. 

If the binder grips the shuttle toward the front end, from the 
center mark, you are not only trying to force it out when picking, 
but you are also pressing unduly against the binder pin, because 
the greater part of the shuttle is behind the pressure point, with 
the result that the pin is soon worn, causing the binder to have 
uneven pressure, besides cutting the filling occasionally. When 
the binder is fixed so as to grip the shuttle toward the back end 
almost invariably there is' more movement to the front end of the 
binder, and this means added, friction on the dagger and dagger 
finger, resulting in the dagger finger being worn out quicker than 



141 



1^8 WiEAVING. 



is necessary. This method of fixing the binder will often cause a 
crooked running shuttle, because the shuttle leaves the binder too 
soon, and when the full j)ower is applied to the stick, there is noth- 
ing to guide the shuttle, and it wobbles when leaving the box. If 
adjustable steel binders are used, tho-ie that are fixed to a loose 
part of the front of the box, it is well to bend the back end a little 
from the shuttle ; if this is not done, the end of the swell will some- 
times cut the shuttle. There is no need to have the binder in con- 
tact with the shuttle for half its length or more, as is practiced by 
some fixers ; one-sixth is rjl that is necessary because in nine out 
of ten cases with the formor style of fixing, the front end of the 
binder is pressing against the outside pin, so that there is more 
movement to the dagger than is necessary, and also undue pres- 
sure on the shuttle, wibich eventually causes the shuttle to be cut 
at the back by the slot in uhe boxes. 

Bach Binder. The question as to whether a front or back 
binder is the better, has been much disputed. The front binder 
is undoubtedly preferable, and may be proven in various ways. 
With the front binder, the protection motion which has a receiv- 
ing plate or plates under the breast beam is used ; the protection 
fingers are fixed on the protection rod at the front of the lay sole ; 
and these being placed in this manner enable the fixer to ma,ke any 
repairs that may be necessary, and in far less time then when the 
rod is placed at the back of the lay sole. When the top ends of 
the two fingers on the front protection rod are pressed against the 
binder, and both the binders are of the same shape, the dagger 
point moves in the same direction whichever binder is being oper- 
ated. This is not always the case with the fingers used for the 
back binder. Owing to the ends of the rods being bent at right 
angles from the lay sole, it is possible to have the top ends of the 
fingers pressed against the binders, and the bottom end of one of 
the fingers closer to the lay sole than the other. This causes the 
dagger on one side to be raised higher than the other, and is a 
source of annoyance, for when the speed changes, the one that is 
raised the least will occasionally cause the loom to bang off. 

A front binder when correctly shaped, presses the shuttle to 
the back of the box, and when a shuttle' is kept in contact with 
the back of the box, it will most certainly have a better chance 



142 



WEAVING. 129 



to hug the reed as it passes across the lay from box to box. 
Aback binder presses the shuttle to the front of the box, and 
when it is being picked from the box, to come in contact with the 
reed, it depends upon its own weight and the motion of the lay. 
There is greater tendency to have a wedge shaped box through the 
back binder, than by the front binder. 

BEATINQ UP. 

The third principle movement in weaving is beating up; that 
is, the beating up of the last pick of filling after it has been laid 
in the shed by the shuttle, the constant repetition of which results 
in the formation of the cloth. 

Eccentricity of the Lay. There is a slow and fast movement 
to the lay, which is absolutely necessary for the formation of good 
solid cloth. It is the unequal motion which gives the name of 
beating up to this part of weaving. If the motion were equal, the 
filling would simply be laid in, consequently the cloth would be 
open and loose. 

The lay travels with greater speed as it comes forward to beat 
up the last pick ; and with less speed when the shuttle is 
travelling across the lay. The value of the eccentricity of the lay 
is seen, not only in the firm cloth produced by the quick beat, but 
also in the longer time it takes the lay to pass beyond a certain 
point while the shuttle is running fiom box to box. It would be 
impossible to pick the shuttle across the lay, and have it clear the 
shed as it should, if there were not a slowing down of the speed of 
the lay at this time ; unless tremendous power were applied to the 
pick motion. Even with eccentricity, it is difficult on some looms 
to get the shuttle clear of the shed. This. is mainly owing to the 
short range of the crank, and the size of the shuttle being too 
great. 

There is a general impression that the slowing down of the 
lay is caused by the pick motion, but that is not so, although a 
pick motion that is fixed so as to give a hard blow, will tend to 
check the lay, but this is the result of faulty fixing. 

It would be well if the loom makers would construct the lay 
swords so that they could be altered to do the best of work on 
various fabrics ; instead of having the lay sword fixed direct to the 



143 



130 



WEAVING. 



rocker shaft have a bracket with slots in it attached to the shaft, 
and the swords bolted to the bracket. This would admit of the 
changing over of the loom from fine to coarse goods or heavy 
fabrics. In manufacturing coarse goods a little larger shuttle should 




Fig. 89. Diagram Descriptive of Beating Up. 

be used, owing to the necessity of having more filling on the bobbin, 
or a larger cop; in this case a slight increase of eccentricity would 
allow a slightly longer time for the larger shuttle to pass through 
the shed, without noticeable increase of power on the pick, also 



144 



WEAVING. 131 



with less possibility of breaking out the side ends. For coarse 
or heavy goods a firmer beat up is required to help in the making 
of the heavier fabric, and nothing would be lost because of a little 
extra time for the shuttle. 

The eccentricity of the lay is caused by the crank shaft being 
on a higher or lower plane than the connecting pin of the crank 
arm of the lay. Fig. 89 shows a diagram representing the lay 
connected to the crank shaft. A sectional view has been made 
use of, cut through the lay sword and lay sole, with circles to de- 
scribe the motion of the crank shaft. The heavy circle represents 
the crank shaft on a level with the connecting pin. The two hght 
circles show the crank shaft, higher or lower than the central 
point. If a crank has a radius of 3 inches, it will give a 
movement to the lay of 6 inches ; so that if the crank shaft is 
fixed on the same plane as the connecting pin, whatever position 
the lay is in when moving back, the crank shaft will be in the 
same relative position when the lay moves forward. A glance at 
the diagram will show this. Line A, represents the lay moved 
half its distance, say backward ; describing the arc B, from the 
center, shows that the crank would be in the same relative position 
when the lay lias gone back to its full extent and has returned to 
the same half distance again, indicated by B, so that there is equal 
movement to the lay when the crank shaft is on a plane with the 
connectmg pin. The commonest illustration of this is the crank 
pin on an engine. 

If the crank shaft is dropped to the position shown by 
the lower circle, it will readily be seen where the crank shaft 
would be when the lay is moved half its distance, still using the 
same measurements as at first, so as not to confuse. The dotted 
arc, B2, shows the position of the crank when the lay has been 
brought back to half distance, and the space between the dotted 
arc and line C, is considerably larger than the spac^ between arc 
B and line C. D and D^ indicate where the crank would be when 
on its back center ; D clearly proving the longer length of time 
that would be allowed for the shuttle to pass across the lay. E 
shows how much less distance the lay would have to travel to 
reach the cloth by the lower setting, than by the level setting, 
indicated at E^. 



:45 



132 



WEAVING. 




American looms are set by the lower setting ; English looms 
by the top setting. The former passes back, the latter comes 
forward.. The greater space from clotted arc to line C, shows that 
the lay will travel the last portion of its movement in quicker 
time, and so give a firmer beat to the cloth. The longer path from 

the beat up to the point oc- 
cupied by the lay when it has 
travelled back to its furthest 
.^ D limit means that there is more 
P time to get the shuttle across 
the lay. This is simply be- 
cause more time elapses in 
the passing over of the lay, 
from the time the pick takes 
place (top center) to the re- 
turning of the lay. 

Again, if the lay is a lit- 
tle farther back, (even a very 
small amount) when the pick 
commences, there will cer- 
tainly be more space for the 
shuttle to enter the shed, 
which is actually the case on 
the lower setting. A fixer 
realizing these points can ad- 
just the motions of a loom so 
that better results are obtain- 
ed than if he knew nothing 
of the values of eccentricity. 
The eccentricity of a loom is 
generally determined by the 
loom fixer ; but looms at the 
present day are very seldom 
worn out weaving the same class of goods they were intended to 
weave so that changes being frequently necessary, better results 
can be obtained where the lay swords are adjustable. 

Lay soles, heavier than those in general use, are an advantage 
as there is more stability and the power of the beat-up is increased. 



(ol 



Fig. 90. Perpendicular Lay. 



I4a 



WEAVING. 



133 



A race board is preferable to a race plate ; it is easier on the yarn, 
the shuttle travels better, and in general gives better results. It 
would be an advantage to have the rocker shaft fixed, so that 
when beating up, the lay would be forward of perpendicular ; this 
would prevent the lay from descending too far, when at the back 
center, as it does in many looms. 
A glance at Fig. 90 will show 
this plainly. The objection to 
the setting of the lay shown at 
Fig. 90 is that the shuttle to run 
straight ought to lie flat on the 
yarn on the race and hug the 
reed ; but it cannot do this be- 
cause the yarn tilts the shuttle 
up, and in the endeavor to over- 
come this, the harnesses are low- 
ered to get the yarn on the 
race. By this arrangement it is 
then so low on the front edge of 
the race that it rests there for 
over three quarters of the move- 
ment of the lay, which is most 
certainly detrimental, as the 
yarn is constantly chafed. Line 
A, shows position of warp yarn 
when the lay is beating up the 
filling. B B shows an open 
shed, with lay on back center ; 
C shows how the bottom shed 
would be above the back of race 
plate, and yet on tlie front 
edge. D shows the shuttle 

away from the reed. If the yarn for the lower shed C, were 
dropped any lower, it would rest heavily on the front edge and 
would be clmfed almost continually while weaving. A remedy 
for this, is the packing forward of the lay, that is, provided the 
rocker shaft cannot be changed. Insert a strip of leather, j)iece 
of wood or pasteboard, between the crank pin bracket and the lay 
sword, thus throwing the lay forward. 




Fior. 



91. Lay Forward of 
Perpendicular. 



147 



134 



WEAVING. 



The Lay. The following parts comprise the lay: Fig. 92, 
AA, lay sole, a long piece of wood varying in size, according to 



U" 



=^=B 







the width and make of loom; it is most commonly made from 
well seasoned ash. BB, two lay swords which support the sole; 



148 



WEAVING. 135- 



the swords are connected at the foot to the rocker shaft, the crank 
arms are also connected to a lug or bracket fixed at the back of 
the swords and lay sole. CC, shuttle boxes ; these are pLaced one 
at each end but on the top of the lay sole, and vary in length 
according to the make and width of the loom. DD, swells or 
binders Avhich are connected to the shuttle boxes ; these are ex- 
plained in a separate chapter. EEE, protection rod and finger. F, 
reed or lay cap; a groove is made behind the race and in the lay 
sole, and when the reed is placed in the groove, the lay cap is 
placed on the top of the reed, then a bolt attaches the cap to the 
tops of the lay swords. 

Shuttle Boxes and Shuttles. Shuttle boxes should be made 
with sufficient room for the shuttle ; this is becoming more widely 
recognized than formerly. There are shuttle boxes on some looms 
with not a half inch to spare ; that is, the shuttle is of practically 
the same length as the box, which is anything but correct, for if 
the shuttle does not reach the end of the box when picked over, 
the loom is likely to bang off. This will frequently happen, es- 
pecially if the speed varies. The pickers are worn out sooner on 
such looms, because the shuttle bangs hard against them. These 
•looms often make smashes, part of the shuttle being in the shed, 
while the rest of it is far enough in the box to press back the swell 
and so lift up the dagger. Almost invariably these looms have a 
blunt swell, and the whole construction is a source of endless 
trouble ; less floor space and a slight lessening of the weight of the 
lay, is the reason claimed for their use. This gain, however, does 
not half make up for the loss entailed by their operation. As 
stated in the chapters on picking ; the box should be one-quarter 
of an inch greater in width and height than the shuttle. There 
should be at least two inches to spare in the length of the box, 
and three would be better. The explanations concerning swells 
should be brought to mind in connection with this. 

Shuttles vary in length from 12| inches to 18 inches, though 
some are longer than these. The commonest size for narrow looms 
weaving from 28 to 36 in. cloth, is one that is 13 to 131 inches in 
length, li inches in width and li in depth ; this is for weaving 
cop filling. Shuttles for weaving cop filling can be smaller in 
width and depth, than when weaving filling from the bobbin. 



149 



136 



WEAVING. 



In Fig. 93, A, E, F, show the shape of three excellent shuttles. 
A is a small shuttle for cop filling; E a combination cop and 
bobbin shuttle ; F is also a bobbin shuttle ; all three of these enter- 
ing the shed in as near a perfect manner as possible. When run 
correctly, they will not spoil the selvedge threads. C and D are 
large woolen loom shuttles. D is the better of the two and is fitted 






F 
Fig. 93. Different Types of Shuttle. 

with a patent spindle in order that it may cany twister bobbins. 
There is no need of a long backed shuttle, B and C ; it is a fallacy 
to think that the long back helps it to hug the reed; on the other 
hand, this shape has a shoulder that very often spoils selvedges, 
breaks out selvedge threads, beside requiring more power to drive 
the whole across the lay. A tapered shuttle is far better, and the 



150 



WEAVING. 137 



points to be considered in ordering, should be to liave as much 
taper as possible, and with the tip in the center. 

This style of shuttle requires less power to drive it, as it 
meets with less resistance in its passage oat of one box and into 
the other. When the pick commences, the crank shaft is on the 
top center ; there is then but very little space for the shuttle to 
enter the shed. Of course, as the lay travels back the space is 
increased, but the shuttle is travelling at the same time, and when 
the full space is realized the shuttle is two-thirds across the lay, 
for by the time the crank shaft is between back and bottom centers, 
the shuttle ought to be full in the box. Hence the reason why a 
tapered shuttle is better ; a longer time elapses before the large 
part of the shuttle reaches the shed ; the lay is travelling back, and 
there is consequently less resistance; it runs better also with less 
power, and the liability of its being turned over is not as great. As 
proof of the latter, it is a well-known fact that a shuttle picked a 
trifle early, will sometimes be turned when it reaches the opposite 
box ; it is also thrown out occasionally. If a little earlier picking 
will cause the above faults, there must be a gain from increase of 
time. Do not mistake this by thinking that the faults could be 
overcome by later picking; the shuttle would not be clear of the 
opposite end of the shed and more power would have, to be applied 
to get clear of it. 

LET=OFF MOTIONS 

The meaning of the term " let-off " is the allowing of the 
requisite quantity of yarn to pass off the beam, in accordance with 
the taking up of the woven cloth. 

Qear Let=Off. Fig. 94 shows a sketch of one style of gear 
let-off. There are many styles, all of which require fine adjust- 
ment if good results are desired. The different styles vary some- 
what in construction, but all are controlled more or less by the 
vibrations of the whip roll. Some in addition to this are assisted 
by the lay sword. This figure is one after that order. 

Fig, 95 is a let-off which shows a combiiiation of gear and 
friction. Another style is arranged in the following manner : An 
arm descends from the whip-roll, the lower end of the arm being 
in contact with a sliding beveled gear. This gear is connected 



151 



138 



WEAVING. 



to a small shaft by a loose key, so that the gear can turn the shaft 
yet slide freely on it when pressed forward by tlie Avhip roll arm. 
A second beveled gear is fixed on the bottom shaft. The shaft 
that supports the sliding gear has a worm fixed on its end. This 
worm is geared into a worm gear fixed on the arbor of the beam. 
When the lay beats up, the warp is tightened and in this way 
the whip roll is caused to oscillate ; the whip roll arm then forces 
the sliding gear pulley against the fixed gear. This gives motion 
to the sliding gear, wliich through the turning of the Avorm and the 
worm gear, causes the warp to let off more or less yarn. This is 




Fig. 94. Gear Let-Off. 

considered a very good motion. The length of yarn let off varies 
according to the oscillation of the whip roll, because the friction 
pulley will come in contact with the fast pulley earlier, and will 
also remain longer in contact. 

It is not always best to give much motion to the whip roll, 
especially if very thin cloths are being woven, and this let-off 
being used, the extreme oscillation is likely to cause thin places, 
by allowing too much movement of the yarn. (Note causes of 



152 



WEAVING. 



189 



uneven cloth.) Fig. 94 shows very clearly the whole motion ; 
the upper spring K, is the one which is changed to obtain the dif- 
ferent tensions on the warp, by loosening the small set collar and 
compressing the spring. In this way more tension is added to the 
warp, while the opposite will reduce the tension. 

With this motion it is best to have the upright lever A, al- 
most perpendicular when the lay sword is drawing forward the 
rod B, so that on the extreme front the upright lever will have 




Fig. 96. Friction and Gear Let-Off. 

moved an equal distance to the opposite side. The compression 
on the lower short spring K^, (which counterbalances the oscilla- 
tion of the whip roll and the rebound of the top spring) is gov- 
erned by the stoutness of the top spring. The diagram gives a 
very good position, having been used on a loom weaving a 5 end 
satin cloth with about 180 picks per inch. 

This is sometimes called a positive let-off motion, but inas- 
much as the pawl D, will cover two or three teeth at different 



153 



140 WEAVING. 



times, it is scarcely positive. When setting this motion be care- 
ful to see that the gears are not too deep, for often the bottom of 
the teeth on the beam bead are rough, and the rough places cause 
the beam to jump, with the result that there are thick and thin 
places in the cloth. The worm E, ought to be set in the gear F, 
so that the shaft with the worm and ratchet gear G, will turn 
freely by hand. The stud on the oscillating lever H ought to be 
in good condition ; on this stud the rod K is placed ; so that if the 
stud is worn, there is uneven motion to the lever, and consequently 
the pawl D, will not turn the ratchet as it should. The pawl is 
attached to lever D', and the point of the pawl is held in contact 
with the teeth of the ratchet by a small spring at the back end of 
the pawl. Sometimes the small spring loses its power and the 
pawl does not engage in the teeth of the ratchet ; the edge of the 
pawl becomes worn, and if either of these take place the result is . 
uneven cloth. 

Sometimes the spring that is in the hub of lever A, loses its 
power owing to the weaver not keeping the lever clean, or by 
undue pressure on the lever ; the result is uneven cloth. Occa- 
sionally the bracket M, will be displaced ; this causes the motion 
to bind ; or if during cleaning, the upright shaft E, is displaced, 
the lesults will be very poor cloth. 

These motions require great care, for if any part of the motion 
be out of place, or worn too much, the result will be a great vari- 
ation in the picks per inch and consequently a cloth that will be 
rejected. Through failure to attend to these motions, cloth has 
been woven with a variation of 8 to 12 picks per inch more, or 
less then there should have been. 

Motions such as Fig. 94 should be changed as the warp 
decreases, that is the tension spring should give less tension, 
because a smaller warp requires less weight or tension, but Fig. 
95, shows a motion designed to control itself. A is the whip roll 
arm, the lower portion of which is in contact with the friction 
lever ; the friction lever rests on the pulley C ; on the same shaft 
as C is a small spur gear, which meshes into the larger gear E. 
E is a small shaft which runs parallel to the back brace of the 
loom ; on the inside end of this shaft is the gear F ; this gear 
meshes into the teeth of the beam head G. An extended arm H, 



154 




in ^ 
< o 
►J a 



WEAVING. 



141 



is fixed to the lower portion of the loom ; to the end of this arm 
a strip of iron is fixed |- inch by |- inch, and 18 inches long. K 
shows the shape of this strip. The bend of the strip is held in 
contact with the jam on the beam by means of the spring L ; this 
spring is connected to the friction lever. The larger the beam 
the more the spring is stretched ; this will cause the friction lever 
to rest more heavily on the friction pulley. The less the amount 
of warp the higher the strip is, and the less stretch to the spring, 
witli less pressure of the lever on the pulley. The motion is 
operated by the vibrations of the whip roll. As the lay beats up 
the whip roll descends, giving movement to the Avhip roll arm, 




Fisf. 96. Friction Let-Off. Woolen Loom. 

causing the friction lever to be raised up from the pulley ; arrows 
indicate the movement. The greater the motion to the whip roll 
the higher the friction lever is raised, and more yarn is let off 
from the beam. It is the strain on the yarn by the beating in of 
the picks of filling, together with the taking up of this yarn, that 
causes the motion to be let off the warp, when the friction lever 
is raised. 

This motion is also designed to be a smash preventer, in addi- 
tion to a let-off. If the shuttle by accident stops in the shed and 
the protection is out of order, when the reed comes in contact 
with the shuttle more motion is given to the whip roll, and the 



155 



142 



WEAYING. 



friction lever is lifted entirely off the pulley ; there being no ten- 
sion on the warp it slackens oft' and so prevents a smash. 

There are various opinions in regard to the value of the 
several let off motions, subject liowever, to the statement that no 
motion whether friction or gear, will yield good results if not 
kept in good condition. 

Friction. There are several ways of obtaining friction for 



■c=c 




Fig. 97. Rope Friction Let-Off. 

the friction let-off, but the use of rope is the most common. 
Hemp rope seems to meet the conditions better than anything 
else ; it is less likely to stick on the beam flange and gives an 
even tension. ' Chains are used, but they require great care be- 
sides the use of a lai-ge quantity of black lead, or the chain will 
groove the flange in a very short time. A steel band is very good, 
but to obtain the best results a strip of burlap should be placed 



156 



I 



WEAVING. 143 



around the flange underneath the steel band Fig. 96, A. The 
knot hy which the burlap is tied, ought to be between the con- 
nections of the ends of the steel band and not under tlie band; 
want of care in this respect will cause uneven cloth. 

Raw hide is sometimes used, but is expensive, and becomes 
hard very quickly, letaining the lioop shape from being around 
the flange, so that when changing warps care has to be exercised 
in changing the band, or it will break. With the exception of 
the heavy looms, (generally for woolen and worsted), a rope 
iriction is undoubtedly better, Fig. 97 ; it is the least costly, very 
easily handled, and Mali serve for thin as well as for thick or 
heavy fabrics. Very few ordinary gear let offs will do this, as 
they are able generally, to control only medium weights. The 
weight required for tension on a warp can only be determined by 
the weight of the warp, and the picks that are being placed in the 
cloth, few picks requiring little weight, a larger number of picks 
more weight. If a friction let-off is used, it must be kept clean, and 
so far as possible, oil should not be allowed to drop on the beam 
flange, for if it gets on the friction, it makes it sticky and during 
the slightest change of the atmosphere, will become uneven in its 
operation and cause poor cloth. 

Black lead should be used in connection with the friction. 
French chalk is sometimes applied, but it has a tendency to at- 
tract moisture. If troubled with the friction sticking, clean it 
thoroughly and apply a quantity of black lead, also rub the flange 
with the same. 

TAKE=UP MOTIONS. 

The take up draws down the cloth as it is Avoven and winds 
it upon a roll. If the motion is in good order, the positive take 
up will draw down the cloth in an even manner, without any 
other assistance. If a certam number of picks per inch are re- 
quired in the cloth, a change gear of a certain number of teeth 
placed in the train of gears will continually yield the same number 
of picks per inch. 

Positive. Positive take-up motions are divided into two 
classes, Intermittent and Continuous. The intermittent motion is 
one in which the gear receives motion from a pawl, with which 
there is an interval between the drawing: over of one tooth to the 



157 



144 



WEAVING 



taking up of the other. These are the most common take-up mo- 
tions. These motions take up with the motion of the lay, or a 
cam fixed to the crank or pick cam shafts. 

The continuous motion has a worm drive, so that when the 




Fig. 98. Take-Up Driven by Lay Sword. 

loom is in motion there is constant movement of the take-up. 
One great advantage of this motion is that if the loom should be 
run in the opposite direction, the cloth is turned back at the same 
time, because the driving motion is reversed. This prevents the 
many thin places that occur with the intermittent motion. 



158 



i 



WEAVING. 



145 



Intermittent. The .simplest form of take-up motion in use 
at the present time, is one that has only three gears. A ratchet, 
small pinion (which is also the change gear), and the beam gear. 
With such a motion, there is not a wide range for the changing 
of the number of picks per inch, so that these motions are gener- 
ally used in the weaving of coarse goods. 

The most common range or train of gears is such as shown in 
Fig. 98. This motion allows a very wide range for changing, but 
when, as sometimes happens, an order necessitates a half pick in- 
crease per inch, additional gears must be added; so that instead 
of five gears, there would be seven ; or a change would be made 
in the stud gears. 

Fig. 99 shows the ratchet receiving motion from a draw 



-A 100 




C54 



Intermittent Take-Up Motion. 



lever commonly called the take-up lever. This lever receives 
motion from a cam fixed on the pick-cam shaft. Sometimes the 
cam is on the crank shaft. On other looms the motion as in 
Fig. 98, is imparted by the lay sword. Whatever kind of motion 
is used, it is best, so far as possible, to set the pawls so that they 
will turn the ratchet while the harnesses are level, or nearly so, 
because at this time there is the least strain on the yarn, and it 
requires less power to turn the gears. There is also less possibil- 
ity with this setting for the pawls to slip over the teeth of the 
ratchet, owing to the small amount of strain on the yarn. The 
correct time to set the cam H, i-s to have the throw of the cam at 
the front center, when the crank shaft is between the bottom and 
front centers, but slightly inclined to the front, with the shuttle 



159 



146 WEAVING. 



in the box at the fork side ; setting the cam on this time, allows 
the check pawl to be lifted freely, to prevent the take up of the- 
gears when the filling breaks, and this also prevents thin places. 

H the motion comes from the lay sword, and a draw pawl is 
used, better results are often obtained by changing to a drive 
pawl, because the latter will operate the take up while there is 
the least strain on the shed, and although the shed may be open- 
ing as the lay goes . forward, the beating up taking place at the 
same time, weaving the cloth loosely; this point helps in the take 
up. When the motion however, commences after the lay has 
beaten up, there is nothing to relieve the strain on the yarn ; this 
causes the motion to work hard, and it very soon wears out. 

In the diagram of this motion Fig. 99, A, is the ratchet gear; 
B, small pinion; C, change gear; D, Stud gear; F, sand or tin 
roller; *G, take-up lever; H, take-up cam; K, crank shaft gear; 
L, cam shaft gear. 

Calculation. To find the number of picks given by a train 
of gears : Multiply the drivers together, and the drivens together, 
then divide the greater by the smaller, and the result, with 1|% 
added for take up or shrinkage of the cloth on the cloth roller, 
will be the number of picks per inch. When only the train of 
gears that comprise the take up motion are considered in the cal- 
culation, the result must be multiplied by two ; that is, if motion 
is received from the bottom or pick cam shaft, but if the driving 
gears on the crank and pick cam shafts are in calculation, the 
quotient obtained will be the desired result. 

A C E L 

100X26X60X64 , ^ 51.1 

17 X 21 X 14.25^' X Z-i = -^ ^ -1 Pi^^^ P^^ i"^^^- ^ amount of take-up 

B D F K 51.9 practically 52 picks. 
100 X 26 X 50 _ 
17 X 21 X 14.25" - ^^-^2 

51.10 

.89 If % of take up. 
51.99 practically 52 picks. 

When the motion is received from the lay, or the take up cam is 
fixed on the crank shaft, the result without being multiplied by 
two will be the number of picks per inch. 

Most of the makers of looms, arrange the train of gears so 
that the change gear gives twice the number of picks as there are 



160 



WEAVING. 



147 



teeth in the gear, namely : a 40 gear will give 80 picks ; 45 — 90, 
and so oa. The above train is one of that order. On some 
makes of looms, the ratchet gear is the change gear, and the num- 
ber of teeth determine the number of picks ; a 60 ratchet giving 
60 picks. Whether the train is arranged as above or not, it is 
best to have a constant number; that is, a number, when multi- 
plied or divided, will give the picks or change gear required. To 
obtain the constant, proceed as in the first calculation, leaving off 
the change gear. 

A X X X E 

iSTTTTTTT^ = Constant 2,000 or 2 ^m n^ /-^ ^ tt i 

B X D X F ' Change gear X Constant = Picks. 

Picks -=- " = Change. 



A X X X E 



B X D X F 



^ = .983 
2 



1.966 

.034 amount of take-up 
2m() 



Does the constant obtained agree with the principle carried out in 
the first calculation ? Proof. 

We have a 26 change gear. 26 X 2 = 52 Picks. 52 -f- 2, 
=: 26 gear. 




Fig. 100. Continuous Take-Up Motion. 

Continuous. Fig. 100 shows a continuous take up motion. 
A is a bevelled gear fixed on the bottom shaft, imparting motion 
to a second bevelled gear B. On the same shaft as B, is a siugle 
worm C. This is geared into a worm gear D ; and through the 



161 



148 



WEAVING. 



open gears E, F, G, H, motion is imparted to the cloth roll K. 
On some looms there are more intermediate gears added, so as to 
carry motion up to two or more fluted rollers that are placed 
under or above the breast beam ; but whatever is added, it is simply 
a continuation of the motion sliown on Fig. 100. A worm, is a 
spiral thread gear, and resembles a spiral ridge cut ai'ouud a shaft. 
A worm gear, is almost like a spur gear, or what is commonly 
called an ordinary gear ; but the teeth are set slightly on an angle, 
so as to mesh more perfectly in the worm. A single worm 
means, one spiral thread, leadily determined by one starting 
point. A double worm means two spiral threads, determined by 
two starting points, one from eacii side of the shaft. 




Fig. 101. Negative Take-Up Motion. 



When calculating the speed of a train of gears, which re- 
ceives motion from a worm, the worm is reckoned as one, that is 
a one tooth gear. A double worm would be counted as two. 

Example. 



15 X.SO X62 X62 



12 X 2 = 24 Picks. 



30 X 1 X 12 X 26 X 15" 
E is the change gear ; one tooth on this gear being equal to two 
picks ; so that for 30 picks a gear with 15 teeth would be used. 

Negative. The negative motion is controlled by weight ; the 
tighter the warp, the more picks there are placed in the cloth. A 



168 



WEAVING. 149 



weight is placed on an extended lever connected to the driving 
pawl, and the picks of filling are beaten into the cloth by the 
reed; the cloth becomes loose, causing less resistance to the 
weight lever, and as the weight gradually falls, the pawl drives 
forward the ratchet gear, and so takes up the cloth. On high 
grade goods that have a large number of picks per inch, also on 
silk looms, it is customary to have a number of check pawls of 
different lengths, so that with the least move of the driving pawl, 
a check pawl will engage in the teeth of the ratchet. The motion 
is generally used when uneven filling is being woven; also on woolen 
cloths that are woven in looms with single boxes. When more weight 
is placed on the lever of the take up pawl, the cloth will be taken 
up faster. The weights on this lever, should be carefully watched 
and adjusted as the warp decreases in size. Fig. 101 shows a 
negative take up. This can be used as a positive motion by 
adding a small casting, indicated by the dotted lines. 



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PART 11. 



THE FILLING STOP MOTION. 

The filling stojj motion is one of the most sensitive minor parts 
of a loom and its adjustment requires skill and thought if the best 
results are to be obtained. There are two distinct forms of filling 
stop motions both of which serve the same purpose, i. e., cause the 
loom to stop if the filling breaks or runs out. Of these the alter- 
nate stop motion, which is used most commonly on cotton looms, 
will be described first. It is attached to the breast beam, on the 
end nearest the driving pulley, at such a point as to cause the 
fork to pass directly hi front of the shuttle-box entrance as the lay 
swings forward, and is actuated only when the lay is swinging back 
from the front center just as the shuttle is about to be picked from 
that side. This action takes place of course only on alternate picks 
hence the derivation of the name. 

The motion in detail, as shownin Fig. 102, consists of the fol- 
lowmg pieces. An elbow lever composed of two sections, the 
hammer or upper section, C, and the lower section, B, which are bolted 
together and hung on the stud at C. A cam, D, which is fixed 
on the pick cam shaft to actuate the lever. A grate, F, which is 
inserted m the lay near the entrance of the shuttle-box. A fork, 
E, provided with a hook at one end and usually three prongs at the 
other. The fork is mounted on the fork-slide, G, which slides in 
the slide-plate attached to the breast beam, often being recessed as 
shown to admit the end of the shipper-lever. 

The action of the motion is as follows : As the cam revolves it 
raises the lower end of the elbow lever, thus throwmg back the 
hammer, and as the lay swings forward at the same time, the fork 
enters the grate as shown at K, allowing the hook of the fork to 
rest behind the hammer which catches as it moves back, drawing 
the slide with it, and through the shipper lever releasmg the shipper 



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handle, thus stopping the loom. When there is filling across the 
face of the grate the fork is prevented from passing through the 
grate, being tipped up instead as shown at L, thus lifting the hook 
out of the way of the hammer and preventmg any action from tak- 
ing place. Consequently' as long as the filling is across the grate 
the loom contmues to run. There are two distinct forms in which 
the prongs of the fork may be bent as shown at M and N. Some- 
times an intermediate form is adopted and in extreme cases the 
prongs extend further than at N ; but for ordinary work this would 
be defective fixing. The form shown at M is by far the best for 




Fig. 102. Filling Stop Motion. 

any kind of work. In settmg the stop motion several facts must 
be considered as governing its most efficient action. As strain 
tends to weaken the fillmg the fork should be set so as not to 
cause excessive strain. The less movement required for the fork, 
the better. Correct tmimg is absolutely essential. 

The prongs of the fork should be long enough to reach belo\A' 



166 



WEAVING 153 



the level of the race-plate, which is grooved at the required point. 
If tliey are not sufficiently long there is a tendency for the filling 
to slip under them, thus allowing the hook to catch and the loom 
to be stopped. Also as the lay swings back the filling which was 
pressed partially through the grate, becomes slack and often curls 
around the prongs if they are too short. This sometimes causes 
the loom to stop, but more often the loop so made, weaving down, 
holds the fork tipped up and prevents it from stopping when it 
should, until it is broken away. Occasionally this loop is woven 
mto the cloth making a thick place which, especially on fine goods, 
is a defect. With the fork shaped as at M, the amount of stram 
to which the filling is subjected, and the amount of movement re- 
quired, are both reduced to a minimum. When the prongs are ver- 
tical or nearly so it is not necessary to have them pass through the 
grate to the same extent as required with a fork shaped as at N, 
to produce the same amount of movement. 

A glance only is necessary to see that there is less tendency for 
the filling to slide up on a fork shaped like M than on a fork 
shaped like N, and it is when the filling presses against the prongs 
nearest the ends that it is subjected to the leasf strain. It is especi- 
ally on a multiple box loom that the effect of straining the 'yarn 
becomes most apparent, because on such a loom the eyelet would 
be in the back end of the shuttle-box as the fork enters the grate, 
and in the majority of cases the filling Avould be held tightly between 
the. shuttle and the binder so that no let-off is possible from the 
bobbin. This being so it may readily be seen that the greater the 
distance the fork passes through the grate, the more the fillmg will be 
stramed, often to the point of breaking out. Excessive movement 
of the fork is always to be avoided, because under such conditions 
it often rebounds just in time to catch and stop the loom. When 
settmg the motion the prongs should project through the grate not 
more than one-quarter of an inch, and as some forks are made 
with short prongs and a long hook, care must be used" to make 
sure that the grate does not come in contact with the slide. If the 
grate should strike the slide when the lay swings forward, the slide 
will be pushed back and the loom stopped without any extra jar to 
which the loom may be subjected. 

To time the stop motion it is common practice to push the slide 



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as far forward as it will go and set the fork and cam to this posi- 
tion. But occasionally the slide slips back from its position when 
the pressure is removed, reducing the distance which the fork 
projects through the grate with the result that occasionally the loom 
will stop, and the fixer having set the motion will naturally think 
something else the cause of the trouble. With the fork fixed in 
its correct position, swing forward the lay, and as it is just leaving 
the front center set the cam to move the elbow lever with the catch 
of the lever just passing the fork. If at this tune the hook of the 
fork barely clears the hammer, the timing will almost invariably 
be correct when the loom is running. 

There are different shapes of cams used, but an eccentric cam 
gives the best results. By its use the lever acquires even motion 
where other shapes cause sudden and uneven motion. 




Fig. 103. Protection Device, 
Frog: Motion. 



THE PROTECTION DEVICE. 

The protection device is to protect the warp from being broken 
out should the loom stop or bang off with the shuttle in the shed. 
There are two distinct forms of protection devices ; first the frog 
motion, which is almost invariably used in connection with a back 
binder ; second the device which has the dagger in the center of 
the lay and is used in connection with a front bmder. 

Referrmg to Fig. 103, which represents the frog motion, the 
explanation is as follows. A is the frog fitted on the side of the 
loom ; B, the dagger attached to a rod suspended under the lay 



168 



WEAVING 155 



sole ; C, the protection finger which is fixed on the outer end of 
the dagger rod with its upper end in contact with the binder ; D, 
the steel receiver placed loosely in the frog to receive the blow 
from the dagger point ; E, knock-off finger which pushes off the 
shipper handle, F, when the dagger strikes the receiver in the frog ; 
G, a brake which is drawn in contact with the tight pulley, H, 
when the frog is forced forward. This checks the speed of the 
loom, and also throws on the pulley some of the jar caused by the 
loom bangmg off. Incorrect setting of the brake often causes 
the loom to become broken and the receiver to wear out before it 
should. The latter is replaceable when worn. Pieces, A, B, C, 
and D are fitted to both sides of the loom, but the complete device 
is only used on the driving side. At the opposite end, the device 
which is there termed a blind frog, is necessary to prevent the lay 
swmgmg forward at that side as would happen if only one 
receiver were -used. 

With this form of protection device more power is required to 
drive the shuttle than when front binders are used, because stronger 
springs are invariably used on the dagger-rod, and there is also 
more weight pressing against the binders due to the use of two 
daggers. 

The daggers vary in length, but for this style device on a 
narrow loom the average length would be about 3|". Different 
■ systems of setting are employed to the same end. One system is to 
draw the lay forward with the shuttle in the shed until the reed is 
pressmg the shuttle lightly against the warp, at which tune the 
dagger should come in contact with the receiver, and the brake bind 
on the pulley. Another method is to place the shuttle on the race- 
plate against the reed, and draw the lay forward until the front side 
of the shuttle is about |" from where the fell of the cloth will be. 
This may be readily determined from the inside edge of the temple. 
Setting by this method will cover nearly every case, regardless of 
the make of loom. Where an extra large shuttle is used, or 
very heavy fabrics are being woven, either protect sooner, or have 
the dagger a trifle longer. 

On the ordinary Northrop Loom, an extra large shuttle is used, 
this being necessary to give the requisite strength when forcing the 
bobbin through, and a |-" space between the shuttle and the fell 



168 



156 WEAVING 




of the cloth has been found to be amply sufficient. Smashes occur 
contmually if the amount of space allowed is insufficient, even 
though the motion acts, and the cloth produced has defects in the 
form of thick places caused by the ffiling being beaten in too closely 
at the point where the shuttle comes to rest. The diagram at Fig. 
104 shows the various positions. At A the position in Aveaving ; 
B, when the loom has banged off and the shuttle is pressed forward 
until the protection acts ; C, when the space allowed is insufficient 
and the yarn is tightened excessively. A third method of setting 
the device is to have the dagger in contact with the receiver when 
the crank shaft is slightly forward of the bottom center. 

The other form of protection device is repre- 
sented at Fig. 105. This form of device is in 
more general use than the one previously described 
both for single and multiple box looms, and is 
undoubtedly the better of the two. It is more 
easily fixed, does not require so much spring on 
protection rod, has fewer pieces, requires less 
power to drive the shuttle, and is used in connec- 
Fig. 104. ^^Qj^ with the front binder which is decidedly the 
most preferable form of binder. As illustrated, 
the various pieces are : A, the shuttle boxes ; B, the protection 
finger ; C, the dagger ; D, the receiver ; E, the protection spring ; 
and F, the protection rod. The rod is held in close contact with 
the lower front of the lay sole, and the fingers, B, B, press 
against the bmder or binder frame. Some makes of looms have only 
a binder forming the front of the box, while others have a wood front 
with an adjustable bmder attached to the binder frame and fitted 
mto an oblong slot cut in the wood front. Daggers vary in length 
for this form of device also, being from 4" to 4|" long on a nar- 
row loom, and correspondingly longer for broader looms because of 
the longer SAveep of the lay. They are also made longer for narrow 
looms intended for very heavy weaving. 

This form of motion is set similarly to the frog motion. To 
set the fingers, draw the lay forward until the dagger is well into 
the hollow of the receiver and fix one finger. Then insert a 
piece of cardboard about -gL." thick betw^een the finger and the 
binder, and fix the other finger in contact with the other binder. 



170 



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157 



When the second finger is being driven on, the rod has a tendency 
to spring a httle and it is to allow for this that the paper is inserted. 
Have the dagger point strike squarely in the receiver for if it 
strikes either nearer the top or bottom the point of the dagger and 
the edges of the receiver soon wear out, and the first intimation of 
this is a smash in the warp, especially if the dagger has been strik- 
ing agamst the bottom of the receiver. When the dagger is set to 
strike high up on the receiver it requires a greater amount of 
movement to keep it clear from the receiver when the loom is run- 
ning. This means that the binder must be set closer into the box, 
causmg increased pressure on the shuttle and a consequent increase 
of power necessary to drive the shuttle into the box. Under these 
conditions the loom will be constantly banging off because the 
slightest change in speed will prevent the shuttle from entermg 
the box fully, and consequently the dagger fails to clear the receiver. 
There is also more wear which is due to the additional amount of 
movement required. 





F 




F 






'' rV 


H^ ' 




'--^^H 




\ ^-^ 




B ,1-i 






1 r-l 


U , B 






G 


Dl 


E 




r3 



Fig. 105. Protection Device. 

Tension on the sprmg should be as light as possible, only to 
the extent of keepmg the finger in contact with the binder and 
applying sufficient pressure to the shuttle. The only real objec- 
tion to this style of protection device is that all the jar caused by 
the loom banging off is applied at one point, and occasionally a 
breast beam is sprung or broken by reason of this. Neither of 
these faults will occur, however, if the breast beam is of well 
seasoned wood and free from dry rot. Incorrect setting of the 
brake is sometimes responsible for the trouble. The brake should 
be applied when the dagger strikes the receiver, for this tends to 
stops the momentum of the loom. 



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KNOWLES QINQHAM BOX LOOMS. 

The term box loom is applied to a loom which is fitted with two 
or more boxes at one or both ends of the lay. A loom equipped 
with several boxes at one end of the la}^ and only one at 
the other, is always fitted with an alternate pickuig motion and only 




Fig. 106. Knowles Gingham Box Loom. 

an even number of picks of any color may be woven into the cloth, 
because the shuttle having been picked across from the multiple 
box to the single box, must be returned to the multiple box before 
any change may be made. This type of loom, which is designated 
as a 2 by 1, 4 by 1, or 6 by 1 box loom, will be explamed first. 



172 



WEAVING 159 



The purpose of such looms is to produce cloth mto which several 
different colors of fillmg are woven but only even numbers of picks 
of any one color may be used. The more boxes there are, the greater 
variety of patterns may be woven, but it is not advisable, however, 
to purchase looms having four boxes merely on the prospect of 
usmg four at some future time when only two are required for 
present needs. Unless the larger number of boxes are required for 
use in the immediate future, it is better to obtain only those 
necessary at the time. This may be explained by the fact that the 
shuttles are thrown differently from new boxes than from boxes 
which have been used. It is also difficult to obtam the right 
amount of leverage, and as all the sliuttles from the multiple box 
are picked into the single box there is endless trouble from this 
source. 

All the shuttles used for these looms must be as nearly equal m 
size and weight as possible, and should as well be in good proportion 
to the boxes. If they are too small the top edge of the back of the 
shuttle receives no support from the back of the box, and has a 
tendency to work ui the slot or picker-race m the back of the boxes, 
while if too large, broken bobbins will often result and the shuttle 
require more power to drive it mto the box, especially in the case 
of the temple being set a little high off the race-plate. There should 
be a space of not less than three-sixteenths of an mch in the box 
both above and m front of the shuttle. Two very good reasons 
may be given for allowing this space. First, the temple ahnost in- 
variably raises the yarn from the race-plate and even when very 
slight it is sufficient to raise the shuttle so that it has a tendency 
to strike the top of the box, unless space is allowed, thus retardmg 
the shuttle, chippmg the wood, and breakmg bobbins and yarn. 
Second, the shuttle travelling across the lay describes an arc, with 
the tendency for the shuttle to strike the front of the box, and un- 
less space is allowed here equally bad results will follow. 

In judging the value of a box motion two considerations ought 
to be taken mto account as follows : Is the motion adapted to the 
speed of the loom to which it is to be fitted, and are the parts 
readily changed and easily adjusted when fitting is required ? Ac- 
cording to the practical answers to the above the returns are good 
or bad- A box motion may appear to be simple and yet not be 



173 



160 WEAVING 



suitable for the work it is expected to perform, while on the other 
hand a complex mechanism is not usually a very durable one. A 
solid compact motion is to be desired, especially for high speed 
looms, because a motion, the main workmg parts of which depend 
upon small studs for support, will not run long without repairing, 
even though good results could be obtained with slightly stronger 
parts on a slower running loom. 

Fitting A New 5et. Having selected the boxes, the next pro- 
cedure is to fit them to the loom and a few moments examination 
of them may save hours of labor as well as supplies. A set of 
boxes inay be fitted to a loom in such a way that the shuttles will 
run a month without any appreciable effect, or they may become 
spoiled in an hour, according to the precision of fittmg. Of course 
boxes must be fitted to a high speed loom with the greatest possi- 
ble care, or the back of the shuttles will soon become worn and 
splintered. Clean the boxes thoroughly, wiping away all grease 
from the inside of the boxes, particularly as its presence would 
cause false running of the shuttles. Smooth off all sharp edges 
such as are found on the inside edge of the back slot and the edges 
of the groove hi the bmder. Set all the binders so that each 
shuttle will be gripped at similar points ; bmding the shuttle at or 
slightly behind the center for reasons referred to in a previous 
chapter on Binders. Do not allow all of the flat end of the binder 
to come in contact with the box, or the filling will become cut, 
because as the shuttle leaves the box the filling curls and usually 
drops m between the binder and the front of the box, and when the 
binder comes in contact with the front of the box the filling is cut, 
while if the bmcler touched only at the extreme end there is no 
danger of this happenmg. After the binders are bent to fit the 
shuttle, the extreme end of the binder should not be in contact 
with the outside pm, but wherever possible a space of at least one- 
quarter of an inch should be allowed for change. With a new set 
of boxes the binders must be tighter than is necessary with an old 
set, due to a certain amount of grease which' it is mipossible to 
remove, and the shuttles as well are mclined to be oily. 

Set the liftmg rod thoroughly by means of the lock-nut under- 
neath the boxes. Carelessness in regard to this is a source of 
trouble as the boxes become loose, and during the picking of the 



174 



WEAVING 



161 



'shuttle the front of the box descends, causmg the shuttle to strike 
the race-plates with harmful effect. A loose lock-nut is also a 
common cause of the boxes binding in the slides. 

The above directions apply to the fitting and fixing of boxes 
regardless of the motion employed to actuate them. Before de- 
scribing the setting of the boxes, due consideration must be given 
the box motion. The box motion used on the two-harness gingham 
loom consists of two parts, the Upper and the Lower, the latter of 
which will be explained first because it is connected directly to the 
boxes. 




Fig. 107. Knowles Gingham Box Loom. 

KNOWLES BOX LOOM LOWER nOTION. 

This box motion derives its movement from elliptical gears, 
and consequently has a fast and slow motion. The gears are timed 
to impart their greatest speed during the change from one box to 
another, which regulates the color of filling to enter the cloth. 
While it is not only advisable but necessary to have the boxes 
changed in time, it is not always desirable to have too rapid action, 



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WEAVING 



for the movement should be as even as possible. A jerky action 
m changmg boxes is constantly causing trouble. A diagram of 
the gearmg of this motion is presented at Fig. 108. Elliptic gear 




§ 



cq 



O 



bo 



1, is fixed on the picking cam shaft and geared mto 2, each having 
27 teeth. Compounded with 2 is a 22-tooth gear and a segment 
gear 3, which has 15 teeth. The 22-tooth gear is the first 
of a train of four gears of the same number of teeth, which transmit 



176 



WEAVING 163 



motion to the second segment gear 4, also of 15 teeth. The vibra- 
tor gears, which are placed in a position between the segment 
gears, have one tooth omitted from one side and three from the 
other, motion being imparted always through the smallest space, 
the first two teeth of the segment entering that space. The larger 
space is to allow the segments to revolve without actmg upon the 
vibrator gear. 

The vibrator gears, of which there are two, are mounted on 
studs fixed to the vibrator leve s D, and these in turn are sup- 
ported at one end by a stud attached to the loom side, the other end 
being connected by means of the connecting rods E, to the small 
levers which press on the filling cham bars. A vibrator or connect- 
mg bar, F, is fixed by means of a stud to each vibrator gear, both 
vibrators also being attached to the box levers, which impart the 
rise and fall to the boxes. One of these levers is a compound 
lever, G, which will raise or lower two boxes, and the other is a 
single lever, H,. which will raise or lower one box. The pieces, K, 
and, K', act as one solid lever during "the ordmary working of the 
loom, and the two box levers, G and H are attached to K and K' 
at pomts M and N respectively. The box liftmg rod is attached 
to the outer end of K', bemg adjusted by means of the adjusting 
nuts at P. Leverage is mcreased or dimmished at O, increased by 
lowering the connection and dimmished by raising the connection. 

A cam, T, placed on the same shaft as segment gear, 3, 
actuates the lock-knife, R. This knife engages with the ends of. 
the vibrator levers, keepmg them m position durmg the tune the 
segment gears revolve. If they w^ere not so held they would tend 
to spring out of contact with the shells, forcing the lock-knife out 
of connection with the vibrator levers during the changing of the 
box chain, and allowing the bars to be raised or lowered. To tune 
the lock-knife, set the finger, S, on the center of the highest part 
of the cam, when the crank shaft is between the bottom and front 
centers, mclined to the front center, with the shuttle in the single 
box. 

A protection device is provided to protect the mechanism 
from becoming broken at any point, if anything should happen to 
prevent the boxes from working. Sometunes a shuttle does not 
fully enter the box, leavmg part of it extending on the race- 



177 



164 WEAVING 



plate, and if some device were not provided to free the boxes, 
either the shuttle or the boxes would be broken. The manner 
of joining together the levers, K, and, K', provides this protection. 
Two short studs with tapered ends are set into the hub of lever, 
K', and fit into correspondmg holes in the hub of lever, K, the two 
levers being held in close contact by means of a spiral sprmg, 
which is held compressed between the head of the bolt and the 
lever. When the boxes are prevented from working, the studs m 
lever, K', twist out of the holes in lever, K, thus breaking the 
connection, which will be re-established on the removal of the 
obstruction. A spring at V in the box of lever, V, assists in 
drawing the levers back into place. 

To Set the Boxes. Place the boxes in the slides and attach 
the liftmg rod to the swivel, P. Bend the lifting rod very slightly 
away from the loom at a pomt near its center, in order to elevate 
the back end of the boxes and thus guide the shuttle higher on the 
picker. Loosen the bottom of the lifting rod and adjust the slides 
so that the boxes may be raised freely, but not loosely, as the latter 
is detrimental to good work. Set the boxes by means of the ad- 
justing nuts at P, so that the bottom of the top box at the entrance 
is level with the race-plate. Then raise the second box by means 
of the box motion, and level the bottom with the race-plate by 
changing the connection of the single lever at O ; raising the con- 
nection to lower the box or lowering the connection to raise the 
box. Next raise and adjust the third box similarly to the second. 
The fourth box should be all right after the former adjustments, 
and if not, it is an indication that the boxes are not true. This is 
occasionally the case, caused by the boxes becommg bent before 
leavmg the machine shop. It must be remembered in connection 
with this motion, that changing the adjusting nuts at P will alter 
all the boxes, and the adjustment of the second and third boxes 
must be effected by altering the connections of the single and com- 
pound levers at O, therefore the top box must be adjusted first and 
the others in order. 

Always bend the lifting rod at the center, because if the bend 
is higher it will rub against the frame work of the boxes, and if 
lower it will come m contact with the supporting bracket, in either 
case causing endless, trouble. . As the shuttle is brought forward 



178 



WEAVING 



165 



5^ 

5r, 



r 



by the picker, it should be so driven that its front end is inclined 
toward the reed, this method of driving tending to cause the 
shuttle to run better across the lay. This may be brought about 
by having the back end of the boxes forward, out of a straight line 
with the reed, or by having the back end of the picker spindle for- 
ward, out of line with the back of the box. The parts are some- 
times fitted in this man- 
ner in the machine shop, 
but if they are not, the 
fixer should see to it that 
they are. 

Patent buffers and 
checks are made to be 
fitted at the end of the box 
frame behind the picker, 
but in place of these a roll 
of cloth or several layers 
of leather tacked together, 
may be used. Such checks 
serve a two-fold purpose, 
that of reducing the jar on 
the shuttle when it reaches 
the end of the box, and 
also to keep the picker-face 
level with the guide plates, 
the latter being an essen- 
tial feature in the running 
of a box loom. Fig. 109 
shows the guide plates 
which press out the shuttle 
when the boxes change if 
the picker is too far back 
from the face of the slide. 










Fig. 109. Guide Plates. 



If the picker is allowed to remain in that position, the tip of the 
shuttle eventually Avears flat with sharp edges which cut the warp 
yarn. Occasionally the shuttle being back too far will catch, and 
preventing the boxes from sliding freely, cause a smash. For a 
buffer or check to the picker on the mner end of the picker- 



179 



166 WEAVING 



spindle, a strip of leather doubled three or four tmies will give 
good service, and if a leather or rawhide washer is placed m 
between each doubling, the check will last much longer. 

Previous to placing the picker on the spindle, be sure that . it 
is perfectly straight, for it is not worth while trymg to fix a 
warped picker as it will never give satisfaction. 

The normal position of the vibrator gears is with the small 
space on top, and it may readily be seen that hi order to accom- 
modate the risers on the cham, it is necessary to have the vibrator 
gears almost rest on the lower segment gear, hence the space is 
necessary on the bottom of the vibrator gears to allow the bottom 
segment to rotate freely. When the boxes are to be raised, a riser 
is placed on the box chain, to lift the small lever connected to the 
Hftmg rods, which m turn lifts the vibrator bar and vibrator gear, 
which is mounted on the bar. This brings the vibrator gear into 
position so that the first tooth of the segment gear enters the 
space in the vibrator gear, which is then rotated one-half turn, 
drawing with it the vibrator lever and consequently raising the 
box lever. The vibrator gear now being turned half round the 
large space, is on top, thus allowing the top segment gear to revolve 
freely. This position will be maintained until a blank bar in the 
chain comes under the small lever, thus through the connections 
allowing the gear to drop into contact with the bottom segment 
gear, which, rotatmg m the opposite direction to the top one, re- 
turns the vibrator gear and the boxes to thair first positions. 

Timing the Box Motion. Set the box motion so that when 
the boxes are changmg up or down, the bottom of the box will be 
about one-eighth of an inch above or below the race-plate, when 
the dagger is hi contact with the receiver. Or, have the first tooth 
of the segment in contact with the vibrator gear when the crank 
shaft is just belimd the bottom center, comuig forward. 

Upper Box Motion. The upper box motion consists mainly 
of two barrels or cylinders, with the necessary driving mechanism, 
which carry the box or fiUhig pattern chain and the multiplying 
chaul. A detail sketch of this motion is given at Fig. 110, 
lettered for reference as follows : 

A. Box cham ratchet, which is fixed to the fiUmg cham 
barrel. 



180 



WEAVING 



167 



B. Small lifting lever which rests on the box chain. There 
are two of these, one for the smgle lever and one for the 
compound. 

• C. Connecting rod which connects lever, B, with the vibrator 
bar in the lower box motion, m the sketch of which it is lettered 
E. There are two connecting rods, one for each lever. 

D, Multipiymg ratchet which is fixed to the multiplier 
chain barrel. 

E, E'. Elbow lever. 

F, G. Driving pawls which are momited on the upper end 
of E and work in opposite directions. 

H. Small lever which rests on the multiplying chain. 

J, J'. Slide or shield controlled by H. 

K. Small lever same as H which rests on the box chain. 

L, L'. Shield controlled by K. 

M. Small clamp fitted around the box of elbow lever, E, E'. 




Fig. 110. Upper Box Motion. 

The motion is driven through a connecting rod with a discon- 
nectmg device from a shell cam fixed on the pick-cam shaft. A 
stud is bolted to the loom side, forming a bearing for one end of a 
small lever which carries two studs at the other end, one on each 
side. One of these studs works in the shell-cam, and the connect- 



181 



168 WEAVING 



iiig rod, A, (Fig. Ill) is attached to the other. At the upper end 
of this connectiDg rod, A, is attached this disconnecting device in 
the form of a slotted lever, B, with a semi-circular recess in which 
a stud, D, is held during the operation of the motion, this stud 
being fixed at the end of the elbow lever. Ordinarily the discon- 
nector fits over the stud, and as the connecting rod moves up and 
down the lower part of the elbow lever moves with it, thus causing 
the upper part to vibrate between the chain barrels actuating the 
pawls which are mounted on its upper end. A chain or cord, F, 
connects the filling fork slide to the back of the slotted lever, and 
consequently when the filling runs out or becomes broken, the 
lever is drawn back against the pressure of spring finger, E, which 
ordinarily holds it in position, in this way breaking the connection. 
Though the rod continues to act it is so held that the stud remains 
in the slot, not being allowed to engage in the recess and conse- 
quently the elbow lever is not actuated. This action of the 
disconnector prevents the occurrence of mispicks by stopping the 
turning of the box chain. The clamp, M, holds the elbow lever in 
a fixed position Avhen the rod is disconnected. 

Timing the Cam. When the crank shaft " is on the front 
center Avith the shuttle in the single box, set the cam so that it 
will commence to draw down the rod, and the pawl will commence 
to turn the box chain. 

Chain Building. Risers are small iron rollers which are 
placed on the chain bars to pass under and raise the small lifting 
levers which through the connecting rods actuate the box motion 
and thus raise the boxes. A riser is always a starter. 

Sinkers are small iron tubes which are placed on the chain 
bars to keep the risers in position, also being used where risers are 
not required, i. e., when the motion is not to be changed or is to 
be returned to its regular position. 

When there are but two shuttle boxes to be controlled by the 
motion, one space only is required for a riser or sinker on the 
cham. Four boxes require two spaces, six boxes require three 
spaces and when a multiplier is used at least one space more must 
be allowed. In the consideration of chain building it is as well to 
start the subject with building the box chain alone, leaving the 
multiplier until later, and the four-box motion just described is a 



18-^ 



WEAVING 



169 



good example on which to work. The main facts to be borne in 
mind are that the single lever will raise or lower one box and the 
compound lever will raise or lower two boxes. 

A riser placed on the chain to actuate the single lever will 
lift the boxes from first to second ; a riser placed on the chain to 
actuate the compound lever Avill lift the boxes from first to third 
and a combination of the two will lift the boxes from first to 
fourth, irrespective of the previous bar. To return the boxes to 




Fig. 111. Disconnecting Device. 

place, build as follows: To return from fourth to second a 
riser under the single lever; fourth to first, a -blank bar; third to 
second a riser under the single lever ; second to first, a blank bar, 
fourth to third, a riser under the compound. The boxes are in the 
regular or normal position when the bottom of the top box is even 
with the race-plate, and a blank bar, i. e., a bar contammg sinkers 
only, is necessary to retam this position, but risers must be used to 
cause a change. When possible to avoid it, never build a chain so 



183 



170 WEAVING 



as to cause the boxes to jump from first to fourth or fourth to first, 
because in so doing the motion is subjected to a greater strain 
tlian it should be, and constant fixing will be required. If soft or 
loosely spun filling is being used in one shuttle, run that shuttle in 
the top box to prevent the fibres of the loose filling from clinging 
to the other filling and causing a bad selvedge. 

Example : Suppose a chain is required to weave the following 
colors, 4 red, 4 white, 4 red, 4 white, 2 black, 2 green, 2 black, 4 
white, 4 red, 4 white, making 34 picks in the pattern. Each bar 
in the chain has the value of two picks because the shuttle passes 
from the multiple box to the smgle box and back again, before a 
change can be made, and for 34 picks 17 bars are required. Place 
the red in the top box, the white in the second box, the black in 
the third box, the green in the fourth box. Then the chain would 
be built according to the foUowmg directions : 

4 picks of red will require two blank bars or sinkers. 

" a riser under the single lever, and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 
" two blank bars. 

" a riser under the single lever, and a sinker 
under the compound lever, on two bars. 
2 " " black " " one bar with a riser under the compound 

level-, and a sinker under the single lever. 
2 " " green " " one bar with a riser under both single and 

comijonnd levers. 
2 " " black " " one bar with a riser under the compound 

lever, and a sinker under the single lever. 
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 
4 " " red " " two blank bars. 

4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 

34 

The above is indicated on design paper as shown in Fig. 112; 
C, meaning compound lever ; S, single lever ; x, a riser ; and — , a 
sinker. Any chain where a multiplier is not used, may be laid out 
in a similar manner by increasing or clecreasmg the number of bars 
as required, using one bar for each two picks. 

The riultiplier. The multiplier is of great value as its use 
saves time in building box chams, and also reduces greatly the 
length of chain required. It is especially valuable when large 



4 


" 


" white 


4 


u 


" red 


4 


1( 


" white 



184 



WEAVING 



171 



check patterns are to be woven, for however large the pattern is, 
the multiplying chain can be so built as to reduce the box chain 
to a comparatively small number of bars. In mills where blankets 
are woven it is customary to use a double and occasionally a triple 
multiplier, one multiplying the .other. The mul- 
tiplier does not control the box motion, but does 
control the box chain, giving to every bar m the 
box cham, which carries a multiplying riser on it, 
the value of the multiplier itself, whatever that 
may be. A multiplier has for its value twice as 
many picks as there are bars in the chain without 
repeat, i. e., a 4-pick multiplier would require only 
two bars one blank and one carrying a box chain 
riser, but these would have to be repeated to give 
sufficient length of chain to go around the chain 
barrel. The multipliers most commonly used are 
4, 6, 8, 10, 20, 30, and a bar in the box chain 
carrying a multiplying riser has the respective 
value as indicated, because the box chain will 
remain stationary while that number of picks are 
placed in the cloth. The box chain is stationary 
while the multiplier is working, and the multiplier 
is stationary while the box chain is working, a 
riser always being the starter or changer from one 
chain to the other. 

A multiplying riser on the box chahi starts tlie multiplier and 
stops the box chain, which starts again when a riser comes up on 
the multiplier chain. The multiplier which will reduce the length 
of the box cham to the greatest extent, without requiring an ex- 
cessively long multiplying cham, should always be selected. In a 
pattern havmg 20 picks of one color and 10 each of two other 
colors it would seem as though a 2 0-pick -multiplier would give the 
greatest amount of reduction, but this is not the case, as a 1 0-pick 
multiplier mstead would be better. A multiplying chain may be 
used continuously for two or more repeats, adding a bar with a 
multiplying riser to the box chain for each repeat, or for any num- 
ber of picks greater than its value, by addmg one bar to the box 
cham for every two picks extra, but it cannot be used for a number 



s. 


c. 


X 


— 


X 




X 


— • 


X 






X 


X 


X 




X 


X 


-^- 


X 




X 




X 


— 



Fiir. 112. 



185 



172 WEAVING 



of picks smaller tlian its value, hence the reason for the statement 
that a 10-pick multiplier should be used for the given pattern. As 
a proof, for a pattern composed of 20 white, 10 black, 10 red, using 
a 20-pick multiplier, one bar, carrying a multiplying riser, would 
be required for the 20 picks of white, five ordinary bars would be 
required for the black, and five for the red, makuig 11 bars in all 
with 10 bars in the multiplier chain, a total of 21. Using a 10- 
pick multiplyer, two bars carrymg multiplying risers, would be re- 
quired for the white, and one each, carrymg multiplymg risers, for 
the black and red, making 4 bars for the box chain, which together 
with the 5 bars required for the multiplier would make a total of 
only 9 bars. 

As a further example, suppose the pattern is required to be 
composed of 20 pink, 20 white, 20 pmk, 10 white, 2 cord pink, 10 
white, 20 pink, 20 white. Working out the chains for this pat- 
tern to fuicl whether a 20-pick or a 10-pick multiplier would be 
better, the result would be as follows : 

10-PlCK 20-PlCK 

Picks. Multiplier. Multiplier. 

1 
1 
1 
5 
1 
5 
1 
1 

13 bars 16 bars 

For this pattern also the 10-pick multiplier would require the 
shorter chain, 13 bars being required for the box chain with the 10- 
pick multiplier, and 16 bars being required with the 20-pick mul- 
tiplier. If the length of the multiplier chain is also taken into 
account, the difference becomes still more favorable to the 10-pick, 
multiplier, as 13 box chain plus 10 pick multiplier = 18 bars, 
total required, using a 10-pick multiplier; and 16-box chain plus 
20-pick multiplier = 26 bars, total required using a 20-pick mul- 
tiplier. The length of the multiplier chain, however, should not 
receive too much consideration as in building a multiplier chain it 
is only necessary to place a single riser on one bar as a changer. 



186 



20 pink 


2 


20 white 


2 


20 pink 


2 


10 white 


1 


2 cord pink 


1 


10 white 


1 


20 pink 


2 


20 white 


2 




REAR VIEW OF 3-BAR LAPPET LOOM WITH PLAIN LAY 

Crompton & Knowles Loom Works 



WEAVING 173 



As a pattern where a larger multipler will allow the use of a 
shorter box cham, the one worked out as follows is a good one. 





16= 


'Pick 


8- 


-Pick 


Picks. 


MUI TIPLIER. 


MULTIPLIEK, 


26 Dark Green 




6 




4 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 


16 Light Green 




1 




2 


16 Medium Gi'een 




1 




2 


4 Black 




2 




2 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 


16 Light Green 




1 




2 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 



14 bars 18 bars 

In this instance also the smaller multiplier requires the 
larger number of bars in the multiplier chain because. one repeat 
of the chain is not long enough to go around the chain barrel 
and two repeats would have to be made. For the 26 picks 
the 8 -pick multiplier repeats three times, giving 24 picks to 
3 bars in the box chain with one ordinary bar for the two picks 
over, makmg 4 bars for the 26 picks. For the 16 picks the mul- 
tiplier repeats twice, having two bars in the box chain, and for the 
four picks black two ordinary bars are required with the multiplier 
stopped. Careful judgment must be used m arranging the colors 
in the boxes. In all ordinary cases the best method is to place that 
color of which most is used, in the top box, but when this necessi- 
tates jumping more than two boxes the colors should be placed 
differently according to the Imiitations imposed. This arrange- 
ment may easily be used for the pattern in hand, placing the Dark 
Green in the first box, Medium Green in the second. Light Green 
in the third, and Black in the fourth. 



[CK8. 


Color. 


Box, 


26 


Dark Green 


1 


16 


Medium Gi-een 


2 


16 


Light Green 


3 


16 


Medium Green 


2 


4 


Black 


4 


16 


Medium Green 


2 


16 


Light Green 


3 


16 


Medium Green 


2 



The box and multiplier chains are now worked out on design 
paper as illustrated in Fig. 113. 



187 



174 



WEAVING 



Start the chains with the riser in the multipher chain on the 
top, so that the front end of the shield is clear from the teeth of 
the box chain ratchet. This allows the pawl to turn the box 
cham, and if the first bar carries a multiplying riser it will cause 
the front end of the shield to clear the multiplier ratchet, which is 





BOX 




MULTIPLYING 




CHAIN. 




CHAIN. 


M. 


s. 


c. 




X 
X 
X 


— 






— 




X 


X 


X 




X 


X 


— 




X 




X 




X 


— 


X 




X 


X 






X 


X 


— 






X 


X 






X 


X 




X 


X 






X 


X 






X 




X 




X 




X 




X 


X 






X 


X 







Fig. 113. 

then turned bringing up a blank bar or sinker, thus allowing the 
back end of the shield to be down with the front end covering the 
teeth of the box chain ratchet, so preventing the box chain from be- 
ino- turned. The shield of the multiplier being clear, owing to the 
riser on the box chain, the multiplier works around until the riser 
comes up, which clears the shield from the box chain ratchet, and 
the box chain is again started up. 

From the above it is readily seen that it is the multiplying 
riser on the box chain which starts the multiplier, and it is the 



188 



WEAVING 175 



riser on the multiplier which again starts the box chain. If both 
chains were so set that a sinker came at the top of each, neither 
one would be turned, and only one color of filling would be woven 
mto the cloth. 

Worn vibrator gear studs and worn studs in the protection 
lever are the most frequent causes of trouble in this form of box 
motion. When the latter becomes worn or the spring is too Aveak, 
the lever slips and the boxes are not lifted high enough. If the 
gear stud is worn there is a tendency for the gear to become 
sprung or the first tooth to break. The first two or three teeth 
m the gear and segment become worn and allow them to spring 
out of mesh. Incorrect timing of the lock-knife will cause skips, 
and incorrect timing of the chain barrel will cause broken risers 
and bent chains. Care must be taken in timing the boxes and 
fitting the swells, as previously explained. Sometimes when a 
loom bangs off with the shuttle partly in the shed, a smash results, 
due to the boxes being set early so that the protection finger is m 
contact with the edge of the swell, preventing the protection from 
working. A protection finger, worn so that the flat part rests 
against the other binder, will occasionally cause a smash in a 
similar way. If there is insufficient movement given to the 
dagger, owing to faulty fixing of the binder by bending out the 
end instead of shaping it properly, smashes often occur, and in 
addition the inner part of the binder will cut the filling by pressing 
agamst the box frame. 

To Prevent Filling from Drawing, first examine the fillmg, 
and if one shuttle contains soft spun filling it should be placed in 
the top box, as it is almost impossible to prevent the filling from 
drawing in if the soft filling is between the others, because it 
causes them to cling together. If the shuttles cannot readily be 
changed, or if the filling is all alike, bend a piece of wire into a 
bow and fix it in the lay sole near the box entrance, Avith about 
one and one-half inches extending above the race-plate. Should 
this not answer the purpose, fix a narrow band of leather to the 
boxes near the entrance, extending from bottom to top. Avoid as 
far as possible jumping the boxes from first to fourth or from 
fourth to first, especially the latter, as the tendency to rebound is 
greater on the descent than on the rise. Many fixers tighten up 



189 



176 WEAVING 



the protection spring on the box rod, believing that the spring is 
only for that purpose, which of course is not the case. Its pur- 
pose is to protect the motion from becommg broken if the shuttle 
sticks hi the boxes or if they are held fast by some other cause, 
and the tighter the sprmg is, the less protection will be given. 
Jumpmg of the boxes is usually due to incorrect thnhig of the 
eccentric gears. They will sometimes run well when the slow 
speed comes on at the fuiish, thus easing off the boxes, while at 
other tunes it is necessary to set them with the fast speed, just 
finishmg so as to get the boxes started before the fast speed is put 
on, otherwise the cham travels more quickly than the boxes. 
Heavy liftmg of the harnesses often mfluences the boxes, the 
heavy lift causing extra vibration to the upper motion. 

CROMPTON QINQHAn LOOM, 4x1 BOXES. 

The Upper Box Motion. Similarly to the Knowles Gingham 
Loom, the box motion of the Crompton Gmgham Loom is com- 
posed of an upper and a lower motion. The upper motion con- 
sists of box cham, chain barrel and multiplier, together with the 
necessary driving pawls and ratchets as illustrated in Fig. 114. 

The Multiplier. A disc multiplier is used on this motion, 
{. e., a multiplier run without a cham. The disc, B, which has 
two indentations, C, in its circumference, carries a ratchet, A, of a 
variable number of teeth. Pressmg against the disc is a small 
finger, actmg m combination with a slide, D, on the same stud 
which extends under a pm fixed in the drivmg pawl, H. When 
the finger is held on the circumference of the disc the drivmg pawl 
is held out of contact with the fiUmg chain ratchet, but when the 
finger enters the indentation the slide drops away, allowing the 
pawl, H, to engage with the ratchet and turn the filling cham. 
There is also a lever, E, pivoted on the same stud which carries 
the disc, one end of which extends over the cham at F, and the 
other extends du-ectly under the end of the pawl, G, which 
operates the multiplier ratchet. When a multiplymg riser comes 
up on the box cham it raises the lower end of the lever, E, and 
consequently lowers the upper end, allowmg the pawl, G, to engage 
with the ratchet. A, thus turning the disc until the finger agam 
enters an indentation. Then the slide, D, drops, allowing the 



190 



WEAVING 



177 



pawl, H, to engage with the filUng cham ratchet which continues 
to turn until another multiplying riser comes up on the chain. 

To change the value of the multiplier a ratchet of a different 
number of teeth is substituted. Each tooth has the value of two 
picks, but owmg to the disc having two indentations the value of 
the multiplier is half the number of teeth in the ratchet. The value 
of a multiplier may readily be doubled by attaching a piece of tm 
to the disc so as to cover up one indentation, when its value will 
become double the whole number of teeth. The disc multiplier is 
an exceptionally good mechanism as it is simple, positive m action, 
and has no links to get out of order, thereby requiring very little 
fixmg. 

The upper box motion is operated through a double cam, A, 




Fig. 114. Upper Box Motion. 

(Fig. 116) fixed on the pick cam shaft, one part of which actu- 
ates, through the connections, the oscillatmg lever on which are 
mounted the drivmg pawls. A disconnector, which prevents the 
driving rod from working when the filling breaks, is actuated by 
the smaller part of tlie cam, which also assists in drawing back the 
motion after a disconnection has taken place. The dwell of 
the larger part of the cam is one-half a revolution of the pick cam 



191 



178 



WEAVING 



shaft, equal to a full revolution of the crank shaft, and the smaller 
cam has one-half the dwell of the larger. There are two separate 
elbow levers, C and D, between which the cams revolve, both 
being pivoted on the same stud, E, which is attached to the cross 
rail of the loom. A catch slide, L, is attached to the upper end 
of the lower elbow lever, D, at F, and the driving rod, G, which 
drives the upper box motion, is attached at the other end. The 




Fig 115, Crompton Gingham Loom. 

upper elbow lever, C, is actuated by the large cam, and carries, 
fixed on a stud, H, at the elbow, a spring clamp which also grips a 
stud fixed in the upper part of the lower lever, D, at J. As the 
cams revolve, the large one coming in contact with the upper elbow 
lever, raises it, and by the combined action of the spring clamp 
and the spring, K, the lower elbow lever is also actuated. A 
slotted bar, M, is supported by a bracket fixed to the loom side, 
and the slide, L, works in the plot o| this bar when the motion is 



192 



WEAVING 



179 



in operation. When the filling breaks, the fork-slide draws back 
and lifts a finger which is also in contact with the slotted bar, M, 
thns raising the slotted bar so that as the slide is driven forward 
the catch comes in contact with the bottom of the slot, with the 
result that further forward movement is prevented, and the stud 
on the lever, D, at J, is forced out of connection with the spring, 
clamp. This stud being out of connection, the connecting 
rod cannot be lifted sufficiently high to cause the pawl to turn the 




Fig. 116. Disconnectiug Device. 

ratchet gear on the filling chain barrel, and all operation of the box 
motion ceases. While the elbow levers are disconnected, the 
tension spring, K, is extended, and it will draw the upper elbow 
lever back into position when allowed to contract ; this is called 
the grasshopper motion. 

The Lower Box Motion. This motion, which is illustrated 
in Fig. 117, is kno^vn as the pin gear motion, deriving its name 
from the manner of driving the large segment or space gear, B, 



193 



180 



WEAVING 



The pin gear, also termed the dog, is attached to the end of the 
pick cam shaft, and as the shaft revolves, the pin, A, enters one of 
the recesses in the segment gear, B, advancmg the gear one space 
for each revolution. There are ten spaces on the inside separated 
by recesses, and on the outside the gear is divided into ten 
segments of seven teeth each, with blank spaces between, so an 




Fig. 117. Lower Box Motion. 

advancement of one space has the value of seven teeth. The 
segment gear revolves on a stud fixed to the frame, about 3i 
mches forward of the pick cam shaft. At the top and side of the 
segment gear, small shafts, C C, are placed, carrying at one end 
cams, which operate the box lever. The cam on top lifts 
one box, and the side cam lifts two. A small segment gear, E, 
havmg two spaces, separating as many segments of six teeth each, 
is also fitted on each shaft, together with a double fork or slide, F, 
which has a projection, G, on each side. These projections are 
of such form as to fill the spaces in the small segment gear, and. 



194 



WEAVING 



181 



act the part of a broad tooth, meshing with the spaces in the large 
segment gear. 

One side of the slide is twice as long as the other, and conse- 
quently when one projection is filling a space on the gear, the 
other is out of connection; the short end bemg the starter or 
raiser, and the long end the returner. Each slide is operated by a 
small elbow lever, H, which is connected by the connecting rod, J, 




Fig. 118. Crompton Gingham Loom. 

to one of the small levers in the upper motion under which the 
risers in the chain pass. The flat portion of the projection, when 
in the small segment gear, almost touches the teeth of the large 
segment gear, so that the projection catches when the small 
segment gear is turned, and the teeth of both large and small 
segment gears are brought into mesh. There is but one box lever 
required with this motion, and this is shown at K, with the spring 
-"lamp, L, grippmg a stud fixed to its outer end. The lower end 
of the clamp is attached to the bottom of the box lifting rod, N. 



195 



182 



WEAVING 



A small finger called the check finger, is provided to hold each 
cam in place, being held in contact with the small studs by means 
of a spiral spring. 

The normal position of the motion is with the short ends of 
both slides nearest the larger gear, and when a riser lifts the con- 
necting rod, the small elbow lever presses in the slide until the 







Fig. 119. Crompton Gingham Loom. 



projection fills up the blank space on the gear. Then as the seg- 
ment gear is advanced by the pin gear, the teeth engage with those 
of "the small segment gear, turning it half around, and consequently 
the cam at the end of the shaft Avill be given a half turn, thus 
lifting the boxes. Actuating the top cam lifts one box, and the 
bottom cam lifts two, or both together lift three. The small gear 
being turned one-half revolution, the long side of the slide is now 
next the segment gear, To pause the box to change back again a 



WEAVING 



183 



siiiker is brought up under the top lever, allowing the connecting 
rod to fall, thus drawing the projection on the long slide into 
place, and completmg the revolution of small gear, when the boxes 
will return to their normal position. The spring clamp, L, serves 
the purpose of a protection device to prevent breakage of boxes or 
shuttles m case of a shuttle or picker binding in the boxes. When 
the boxes catch, the stud on the box lever is forced out of connec- 
tion, and slides up the crank, thus preventmg the lifting rod from 
bemg raised. 




Pig. 120. Crompton Gingham Loom. 

TJming and Fixing of the Motion. To time the motion set 
the pin gear with the pin on the bottom center when the crank is 
on the back center and the shuttles being picked from the box 
side ; or with the pin on the top center when the crank is on the 
back center with the shuttle being picked from the smgle box. 



197 



1S4 WEAVING 



When this box motion is fitted to some other make of loom, the 
stud which supports the large segment gear is often below the 
center of the pick cam shaft, m which case the timmg must be 
changed to suit requirements. Set the pm on the top center with 
the crank shaft on the top center and the shuttle at the box end. 

Set the head motion driving cams with the small cam on the 
bottom center, when the crank shaft is just behmd the bottom 
center coming forward, and the shuttle is iii the single box. As 
the smgle box lever used with this motion must necessarily supply 
both smgle and compound, leverage two f ulcrums are required, the 
upper cam servmg as one, and the stud upon which the mner end 
of the box lever is pivoted, actmg as the other. This being the 
case, it is unpossible to change the position of the stud at either 
end of the lever, without affecting the leverage at the other end. 
For example, suppose the first box is set level with the race-plate, 
but on raismg the second box, it is found to be too low. Moving 
out the stud, M, would obviate this, but it is probable that the lift 
would be excessive for the third box, and not only that, but the 
first box would be too low when returned to normal position. 
Under such conditions, the only satisfactory method of settmg this 
motion is to work m between the two pomts of leverage. Startmg 
first with the studs, M and R, near the centers of their respective slots, 
with M inclined to the outer end, move out S and its connection 
almost to the limit, and let it remain in this position, because the 
slightest change at this pomt makes a great difference in the lift 
of the boxes. Moving out stud, S, causes the boxes to be lower 
when normal, but to raise higher when turnmg the bottom cam. 
Moving in stud, R, has a similar effect, while settmg m stud, M, 
closer causes the boxes to be higher in their normal position and 
lower when raised. 

In connection with some box motions, the boxes are found to 
be higher or lower, according to the position of the lay. This 
occurs to the greatest extent where a box motion is fitted to a 
different make of loom, but will never occur if the lifting rod and 
connections are set to move in the same arc as the lay. When the 
boxes do change position, great care must be used in setting them ; 
the best method being to have the boxes a trifle high when the 



198 



WEAVING 185 



craiik is on the top center, as this allows for a slight drop as the 
lay swmgs back. 

The greatest cause of trouble on this motion is the loosening 
of the small segment gear, and this will seldom occur if due care is 
used hi fittmg the gear on the shaft, and in fixing the motion after- 
wards. Trouble of this sort is met with most frequently on the 
old tvpe of motion, which is fitted with a check cam to prevent the 
motion from turning too far. It is the jarring of the cam against 
the check finger which is the objectionable feature, as the sudden 
check must sooner or later wear the check cam and loosen both the 
box cam and the gear. 

This motion is not hard to fix if thought is devoted to it, 
and once thoroughly fixed it will remain m good condition for 
months. If the small gear should become loose, care must be used 
in replacing the worn pin, for with a small shaft sprung, the condi- 
tion is worse than with a loose gear, due to the binding in the 
bearmgs, which is difficult to remedy. 

The small shaft, C, is a pivot or swivel bearing attached by a 
pin to the framework of the motion, a spring bolt keepmg the 
bearmg m place durhig the ordinary runnmg of the motion. When 
anything becomes fast between the two gears, or the teeth of the 
small segment do not mesh with the teeth of the large segment, the 
spring bolt allows the bearmg to be pressed out of position, thereby 
separatmg the two gears and preventing breakage. Occasionally 
the spring bolt becomes loose, allowing the small gear to work out 
of mesh with the large gear, and in this way causing a mispick 
or skippmg of the boxes. Sometimes under these conditions the 
small gear skips one tooth, only meshmg with the second tooth 
of the large gear. 

Worn projections on the fork-slides also cause skippmg, 
because mstead of the projection engaging with the first tooth of 
the space gear, the slide sprmgs out. Both slides are alike, but as 
they work m opposite directions they become worn on opposite 
sides, and therefore may be interchanged when worn, givmg 
results as good as new ones. 

A washer is placed at the end of the suigle cam to prevent 
the box lever from slippmg, and this washer becommg loose will 
somethnes buid on the shaft and thus cause skippmg. If it 



199 



186 WEAVING 



becomes very troublesome remove it, and nothing serious will 
occur if the motion is set in correct alignment. 

Incorrect timing of the chain barrel, bent cham bars, or 
broken risers, all have the effect of preventing the fork slide from 
moving into place, and skipping is the result. Chain links riding 
on the chain barrel also cause skipping. Insufficient lubrication 
of the shaft, C, the cham lever studs, or the finger rod bearing, 
will prevent the slide from returning to place when the boxes are 
to be lowered. A small coil spring placed around the bearing of 
the finger rod in contact with the finger will help to draw in the 
slide. The hook to which the check finger spring is attached, 
works loose occasionally, and allows the small gear to turn a trifle 
too far. This may cause one of several effects, such as the boxes 
liftmg too high or dropping too low, the picker to become fast in 
the boxes, or the teeth of the small gear will not mesh with those 
of the large gear. Binding of the boxes in the slides tends to 
injure the motion owing to the increased amount of pressure 
to which the gears are subjected. The stud, M, soon wears out if 
not sufficiently oiled, necessitating constant fixing of the boxes, as 
the stud becoming worn allows the boxes to drop lower than they 
should. It is seldom that the pin in the pin gear requires atten- 
tion. If the large segment gear shows a tendency to travel too 
far after the pin gear has left it, the probable cause is a worn 
supporting stud. 

This form of box motion is one of the best and most com- 
pactly built, and is adaptable to either slow or fast speed. The 
parts are substantial, and if the motion is kept well oiled and care- 
fully fixed, it will probably require fewer repairs than any other 
box motion. 

TEMPLES. 

Temples are for the purpose of keeping the cloth stretched as 
near as possible to the reed width during the weaving process. 
As much care s' 'uld be used in setting the temples as is used in 
setting the pick-motion, because unless the cloth is kept approxi- 
mately to the width of the warp in the reed the edges will not 
weave as they should. A very slight twist on the temple or a 
little too much distance from the fell of the cloth is often the 



200 



WEAVING 



IS] 



cause of great loss of time. Temples are made for almost every 
kind of cloth woven, and the kind of cloth to be woven should 
always be considered when purchasing- temples. 

Temples may be divided into two distinct types, hurr or roller 
temples and ring temples, each of these types being again sub- 



■^^^^r^r-^. 




Fig. 121. Burr. 




Q O 9 v o o 

„ 9 9 9 ,0 9 Q 



Fiff. 122. Burr. 



divided into several varieties. The burrs are made of brass, steel 
and wood, the latter being the most common, and they are fitted 
with teeth or pins, set spirally around the roller, varying in number 
and height of setting. Singly the burrs are from li inches to 2^- 
inches long, but often two or three of the smaller ones are used 
together, and they vary in diameter from 1 inch to ii inch, some 
of them being cylindrical and others tapered. Figs. 121, 122 and 
123 show three different burrs to be used for cloth, ranging from 
fine to moderately heavy cotton or silk cloth. Fig. 124 shows a 
left-hand temple fitted to the breast beam. It is a spring temple 
and one of the best possible for general work, A hinge temple is 
shown at Fig. 125. The burrs and pods or troughs in which they 
work are similar to those in Fig. 124, the difference being in the 
position m whicli they are fixed. Spring temples are probably the 



201 



188 



WEAVING 



best because of the greater ease of adjustment. Figs. 126, 127, 
128 and 129 show four different varieties of inclined ring temples. 
Fig. 126 is a combined right-hand temple. Fig. 127 shows roll 
with rings attached. This temple is suited for heavy weight 




^-'^r-^-^r^-^-^n^^-^-^ ^■ ' ^'^^^ ■ Q-^i'^ 



Fisr. 123. Burr. 




(D 



Fig. 124. Left-hand Temple. 

cotton goods and light weight worsteds. Figs. 128 and 129 show 
temples suitable for heavy woolens and worsteds. Ring temples 
are made from two to fifteen rings, the number being determmed 



203 



WEAVING 



189 



by the weight of tlie fabric to be woven. The horizontal ring 
temple, which is illustrated at Fig. 130, is used exclusively for 
fabrics which must be gripped only on the selvedge. 




Fig. 125. Hinge Temple. 




Fig. 126. Combined Right-hand Temple. 

As previously stated, temples are to mamtam the fell of the 
cloth at the same width as the warp in the reed, and in doing this 
temple marks often result, i. e., holes are made in the cloth by the 
pins in the temple. Every precaution should be taken to avoid 



203 



190 



WEAVING 



such, particularly on fine goods, and it is fine clotli which is most 
likely to become so mjured. Sometimes the finest burrs will make 
temple marks, m which case tapered burrs should be used, and the 
pins covered with tissue paper or very thui cloth until only the 
points show through. Filling is sometimes wound around the burrs 




Fig. 127. Inclined Ring Temple. 




Fig. 128. Inclined Ring Temple. 

for the same purpose, but paper or thm cloth is preferable. Usmg 
burrs which are too coarse is often the cause of temple marks on 
fine goods, and fmer burrs must be used to remedy any such fault. 
Blunted or bent pins and mcorrect setting are also frequent causes 
of temple marks. The face of the temple should be set parallel to 
the fell of the cloth at a distance of from Jg mch to i mch accord- 
ing to circumstances. A small amount of action to the temple 
always has a beneficial effect, especially when it is set close to the 
fell of the cloth, because it reduces the stram on the selvedge 



204 



WEAVING 



191 



threads, when the lay beats up 
piece of leather in such a 
position that it will strike 
agamst the heel of the temple 
when the lay swmgs forward, 
a sufficient amount of motion 
is given for ordmary require- 
ments. 

It is common practice on 
medium and light weight 
goods to use burrs for both 
temples m which the spikes 
are set in the same direction, 
the idea being that as long as 
the spiral turns toward the 
outer end of the burr they 
will work as they should. On 
some grades of cloth this holds 
true, but it may easily be seen 
that while the pins pomt 
toward the outer end and tend 
to pull the cloth that way, yet 
the spiral settmg of the puis 
m both temples is the same, 
^. e., the spiral setting runs 
toward the right, and a burr 
set m this way would act bet- 
ter m a right hand temple 
with the cloth running over 
it, because every turn of the 
spiral would give the puis a 
closer grip. With such a 
burr m the left-hand temple 
the cloth is held by the iiiclme 
of the puis alone, and the 
method of settmg tends to 
allow the selvedge to run in, 
rather than to keep it stretched out. 



By attaching to the lay sole a 




Fig. 129. Temple. 
When weavuig heavy goods 



205 



192 



WEAVING 



this objectionable tendency of one selvedge to draw in, caused by 
using temples of the same setting for both sides, becomes more 
strongly apparent, and that selvedge becommg slack does not 
weave as it should. 

Right and left-hand burrs are now obtainable, and they should 
be used if the best results are desired. When fitting burrs the 
spiral setting of the puis must turn toward the right, i. e., lite a 
right-hand screw, for the right-hand temple, and toward the left 
for the left-hand temple, if the cloth is to be kept at width, for 
otherwise the cloth will be drawn in. 



o 



o 



■— ' *— ' ^-^w\_A_A! 




Fig. 130. Horizontal Ring Temple. 

The roll in the rmg temple may be raised or lowered to change 
the amount of grip by which it holds the cloth. The higher it is, 
the firmer grip it has on the cloth, and the lower it is, the weaker grip 
it lias. This method of adjustment allows the temple to be accom- 
modated to various weights of cloth. One of the best rmg temples 
intended to permit of ready adjustment to various grades of goods, 
is illustrated in Fig. 131. The washer, A, is made with an eccen- 
tric ring bearing, upon which the pin ring is placed, and this washer 
is turned on the stud, C, so as to mcrease or clunmish the length of 
the pin extending above the washer, thus regulating the contact of 
the pms with the cloth. The stud, C, is shown carrymg the base 
agamst which the washers and rmgs are placed, there being also a 
solid piece burr tapered on the mner end of the stud. 

The Hardaker temple is mtended to be used on close shed 
looms, especially as the temple works with the cloth, thereby pre- 



206 



WEAVING 



193 



venting injury to the clotli by tlie temple. On heavy goods there 
is always considerable movement to the cloth when the lay is beat- 
mg up, and as it leaves the fell of the cloth. There is also a con- 
sidearble rise and fall to the cloth, the movement behig greatest 
with the heaviest shed. These temples allow for that movement, 






X 



Fig. 131. King Temple. 



and should be set close to the fell of the cloth, inclined slightly 
toward the race. 

CENTER STOP MOTION. 

This type of filling stop motion is usually fitted to woolen and 
worsted looms, and is of especial value when smgle picks of certain 
colors are being woven mto the cloth, because the loom Avill be 
stopped on the broken pick if the motion is in good order. 



207 



194 WEAVING 



The motion is generally fitted to the center of the lay, but on 
carpet looms two feeler motions are fitted one near each end of the 
lay sole. It must be kept m the best condition by accurate fixing if 
good results are to be obtained. A detail drawing of the motion 
used on the Knowles Broad Loom is shown at Fig. 132. The feeler 
wires, A, are attached to the base or hub which carries a small 
crank, B, this being connected through the adjusting rod, 
C, to the dagger lever, the dagger being attached to the end 
of this at right angles to it. G is a bracket fixed to the breast 
beam, havmg mounted upon it the inclined slide, F, the receivmg 
lever, H, the protection slide, L, and the slide finger, M. The 
knock-off finger, J, is attached to the rod, K, which extending under 
the breast beam is m contact with the shipper handle. A flat steel 
sprmg, N, is also attached to K, for the purpose of holding M in 
place when the loom is stopped. 

As represented m Fig. 132 the loom is stopped with the lay 
just forward of the back center, the feeler wires being raised to 
allow the shuttle to pass under and lay the filling under the wires 
when the loom is started. When the shipper handle is drawn 
forward to start the loom, the knock-off finger is raised up under 
the projection, H', on the receiver, H, thus causing the upper end to 
extend above the bracket, G, the lower end bemg pivoted at H". 
As the lay swmgs forward, the dagger, E, slides down the inclme 
of F, allowing the feelers to drop, and if there is no filling under 
them they drop mto a recess cut in the lay sole. This allows the 
dagger to drop far enough to strike against the upper end of the 
receiver, H, and as the lay continues to swmg forward, the receiver 
being pressed down carries with it the knock -off finger, thus, 
through the connections, stopping the loom. If there is a strand 
of filling under the feelers, they are held up so that the dagger 
cannot strike against the receiver, and the loom continues to run. 
The protection slide, L, acts only on the first pick after each start- 
up. 

Immediately as the loom stops, the flat sprmg, N, causes the 
finger, M, to force the slide sufficiently high to protect the receiver 
from the dagger. When the power is applied by drawing forward 
the shipper handle, the sprmg, N, is drawn away from the fuiger, 
releasing the pressure on the slide, but the latter remains in place 



WEAVING 



195 



until the dagger strikes the hook at L' and forces the slide out of 
the way, leaving the receiver in position to act. This protection 
slide is necessary for the reason that often after the loom is 
stopped, the lay is drawn forward and then pushed back, when 
the feelers pass under the filling, and if no protection slide were 
provided the dagger would strilie the receiver thus stoppmg the 
loom. When no protection slide is fitted, it is necessary to place 
the filling under the feeler wires m order to prevent the dagger 
from strikmg the receiver, thus occasionmg a loss of time. 




Fig. 132. Knowles Broad Loom Motion. 

Timing the Motion. The mclmed slide, F, is adjustable to 
control the action and position of the feeler wires. By lowering 
the front end and raismg the back, the feelers are caused to rise 
more quickly. On looms fitted with two sets of feelers the slide 
must be set to raise the feelers as quickly as possible, otherwise 
the shuttle may strike and bend them. If this happens they are 
held up by the warp threads, and the loom will not be stopped 
even if the filling is broken. Adjust the slide, F, and adjustmg 
rod, C, so that the feelers will be raised almost the height of the 
shed when the crank shaft is between the top and back centers 
and the dagger is almost at the top of the glide, Set the feel^rg 



iSOQ 



196 WEAVING 



in the base so that | uich to i mch will remain on the filling when 
the dagger passes the receiver ; and yet they should pass clear of 
the rib of the reed when in the lay sole, to prevent any possibility 
of the feeler wires catching in case of the yarn dropping to the 
bottom of the reed. With the lay drawn forward so that the 
crank is on the bottom center, the dagger should be at the bottom 
of the slide at i inch to i inch from the receiver. This range is 
given to cover a variety of looms. For the Knowles Loom the 
distance is generally ^ inch, but on the Crompton Loom the dagger 
should be in contact with the receiver wheii the crank shaft is on 
the bottom center, and occasionally with some looms the dagger is 
set m contact with the receiver when the crank shaft is just behind 
the bottom center. 

On the Knowles Narrow Loom a different form of center stop 
motion is used. As illustrated in Fig. 132, the motion is composed 
of the following pieces : A, the feelers ; B, feeler cam ; C, connect- 
mg rod ; D, dagger lever ; E, dagger ; F, adjusting rod ; G, adjust- 
mg point ; G', bracket ; H, receiver ; I, lock finger ; J, rod upon 
which lock finger and shield, K, are placed ; L, shield finger ; M, 
finger rod ; N, locking lever. The adjusting rod, F, is pivoted on 
an adjustable stud, G, attached to the bracket, G', which is fitted 
to the cross-brace of the loom and extending upward through the 
bracket on the lay sole, the end comes in contact with the dagger 
lever. It is so adjusted as to push up against the dagger lever, 
thus raismg the feelers as the lay swings back. As the lay swings 
forward the rod is drawn down, allowing the lever to drop and 
with it the feelers, so that if there is no filling under the feelers, 
the dagger is allowed to strike the receiver, H, thus stopping the 
loom. The locking lever, N, is attached to the brake-rod upon 
which is also fixed a projection coming in contact with the shipper 
handle. 

When the dagger pomt strikes the receiver, the lock-finger, I, 
is raised up, thus releasing the lock lever, and allowmg the pro- 
jection on the brake-rod to force off the shipper handle. If there 
is a pick of filling under the feelers when they descend, the dagger 
is held out of contact with the receiver, and the loom contmues to 
run. The shield, K, is controlled by the finger, L, and rod, M, the 
outer end of the rod being in contact with the shipper handle. 



210 



WEAVING 197 



AVhen the loom is stopped the shield covers the receiver, prevent- 
ing the dagger from striking it, thereby allowing the loom to be 
turned over by hand, but when the shipper handle is drawn uito 
place, the finger forces up the shield and leaves the receiver free to 
be acted upon by the dagger. This form of stop motion is one 
of the most mstantaneous in action because, immediately as the 
dagger strikes the receiver, the power is removed and the brake 
applied. 

In setting this motion have the dagger point in contact with 
the receiver when the crank shaft is on the bottom center. The 
feelers are raised to the highest pomt when the adjusting rod is 
perpendicular, the crank shaft bemg between the back and bottom 
centers. To lessen the lift of the feelers move the adjusting rod 
-pivot farther back hi the slot of the bracket, G', or adjust by chang- 
mg the screw connection on the lower end of the rod. The former 
method is the better. 

When weaving tender fiUmg if the feelers, rest so heavily on 
it as to break it often, or cause it to kmk in the cloth, a small 
weight may be attached to the back end of the dagger lever at 
point D'. Or set the feelers so that they will not descend so low 
into the feeler slot, changing also the timing of the motion to be 
slightly early, i. e., to have the feelers leave the filling a little 
sooner than ordinarily would be the case. Occasionally a piece of 
wu'e is so inserted in the feeler slot as to come between the feelers 
and hi this way prevent the filling from becommg broken or kinky. 
General fixing points will be described later. 

Odd Points Pertaining to Warps. Under this heading some 
of the iiiuior problems which come up in running a loom will be 
considered. A loom ought to be cleaned, oiled, and fixed every 
time a warp is run out, and if a fixer could only realize how much 
work a small amount of attention at this tune would save him, he 
would soon make it a regular practice. It is when a loom is 
empty that some little thing can be seen, which might cause end- 
less trouble when the warp is in. How often a screw head slightly 
above the race-plate cuts the warp yarn or chips the shuttle a 
little; or the race-plate is broken behuid the feeler-slot, cuttuig the 
yarn ; and sometimes a flat whip-roll has grooves worn in it which 
chafe the yarn, when tilting it slightly will remedy the fault. 



211 



198 WEAVING 



Accumulation of grease at tlie box entrance often causes dirty 
filling, and sometimes causes the shuttle to run crooked, thus 
makmg the warp weave badly. Unless the yarn is very poor, a 
warp seldom weaves badly m a cam loom except in case of the 
loom being out of order, for which the remedy is given elsewhere. 
Sufficient attention is not given to the stretch of the yarn from the 
whip-roll to the harnesses. A warp which otherwise would not 
run, can often be run out by increasing the distance between the 
whip-roll and the harnesses. Additional lease rods will often even 
up the yarn in a warp even though a striped cloth is being woven 
from the same warp. Double cloths will usually weave better if a 
lease rod is inserted between the two warps, especially if one cloth 
is a more open weave than the other, as the take-up differs under 
such conditions, and the rod should be inserted so that the slack 
warp is underneath. 

The use of a lease rod is also a remedy for rough lookmg 
cloth caused by curly warp or filling yarn. Dimities often weave 
better by the use of an extra lease rod, a wire rod being preferable. 
A soft warp can be made to run better by laying across the warp a 
long cloth bag filled with French chalk, or by laying a piece of 
wax on the warp. The latter remedy is not to be recommended 
for all cases, however, as any wax retained on the yarn proves 
detrimental to further processes such as dyeing, etc. A stiffly 
sized warp may also run better by above treatment, but a damp 
cloth laid over it, or a pail of hot water placed under it so that the 
steam will rise and soften the size, will give much better results. 
Staggermg the harnesses is the best possible treatment where a 
large number of harnesses or heavily sleyed warps are being used. 
A plaid back can be woven much more easily by adjusting the 
backing harnesses a trifle lower than the others. 

It can readily be seen that if there are six or eight ends m 
one dent, with the harnesses all level, and four or five of the liar- 
nesses on which they are drawn are lifted at one time, those 
threads will be crowded m the dent, but if the harnesses are 
staggered the threads will be separated. If when weavmg a plain 
stripe there is a tendency for the threads to cling together, a 
possible remedy is to use a friction let-off in conjunction with an 
oscillating whip-roll, fixmg the whip-roll so that the yam is tight on 



WEAVING 199 



the center of movement of the harnesses. This prevents the cloth 
from becommg unduly slack at tunes, which is the most common 
cause of threads clinging together. When weaving fuie or very 
thm cloths, there is often much trouble with the filling m the 
cloth bemg dragged at the edges, making ragged looking cloth. 
A piece of wire driven in the top edge of the breast beam will 
often overcome this fault, but better yet is a roller mounted near 
the top of the breast beam over which the cloth may pass. 

If the fixer will use care in tymg in warps, a great amount of 
yarn may be saved in a year. Tying in warps carelessly is a 
slovenly practice, and it takes longer to get them started, as well 
as causing an. extra amount of work for the weaver because of 
some threads, which are not drawn tight enough, being broken out 
on starting up. First tie in bunches sufficiently large to go under 
the temple on each side, and then complete the warp by tymg in 
bunches occupymg about two inches width in the reed. It will be 
noticed that the yarn often snarls behind the harnesses, and while 
it takes some time to draw out the snarls, a bad start-up is the 
result if it is neglected. When -such a case is met with, draw 
back the warp until the snarls leave the harnesses, and the warp 
may then be tied m very readily. 

The above points are all small things, but they often save 
hours of labor, and increase the production as well, which is a very 
material consideration. 

CARE OF LOOMS. 

Before considering the general fixing of looms, it would be 
well to understand the following : "A loom that is kept in good 
repair will cause very little trouble, and never serious faults. 
Looms give warnuig of comuig danger, and the careful fixer will 
see to it that these warnmgs are heeded. A fixer who patches a 
job, very often has serious results from his neglect. A loom 
banging off, or a shuttle jumping or rattling in the box, is a sure 
sign that something is giving way ; the manner in which a shuttle 
is weavmg, indicates, to the careful thinkmg fixer, the seat of the 
trouble, and he knows full well if the warnmg is unheeded, that 
probably a shuttle will fly out and hurt some one. If there are 
any of the parts that control the boxes wearing, the shuttle will 



213 



•200 WEAVING 



almost invariably show it, because it will be wearing either at the 
top or bottom. A reed over or underfacecl, or bent dents, will 
show themselves on the shuttle ; the back of the shuttle will be 
worn, or it will be wavy instead of having a smooth back. 

The term shuttle flying out, for jumping shuttles and flying- 
shuttles, has been used, because it is a generally accepted term, 
but there is a difference between the two. A jumping shuttle is one 
that may skip over the cloth and go in the other box, or it might slip 
over the end of the loom to the floor, or possibly drop two or three 
feet from the loom, or the shuttle may jump up from the lay. Such 
shuttles rarely, if ever, hurt any one, but they are possible indica- 
tions of a serious defect which, if not. attended to as soon as 
possible, will result in the shuttle flying a good many feet from 
the loom. By noting distinctly where the shuttle has fallen, 
and the distance it has gone, it is possible to locate the cause. 
The shuttle will not travel in the same direction if it meets any 
obstruction in its passage across the lay, as it will if it has shot 
clean from the box. A worn picker, picker-stick or loose spindle 
will throw a shuttle more clearly than any other cause, and these 
are the two causes that throw the shuttle with the full force of the 
picking motion; and by a picker springing- the picker spmdle 
often adds force to the shuttles. A shuttle that jumps through 
striliing the feeler wires has met a sudden check, and it is impos- 
sible for such a shuttle to fly as far, or in near the same direction 
as when thrown as before stated. 

When the boxes are below the race-plate, the shuttle must 
force itself out of, the box, and has an upward tendency. Follow- 
ing out this Ime of reasoning, the effect can be clearly traced to 
the cause, and will save many hours of labor. 

GENERAL LOOM FIXING. 

In these chapters on general loom fixing it is the purpose to 
give the causes of and remedies for the various faults met with m 
the majority of looms, whether with cone or bat-wing pick motions, 
smgle or multiple boxes. There may be odd cases missed in one 
chapter, but they will m most cases be found in another; for 
example, a loose picker will often cause a shuttle to fly out and it 



S314 



WEAVING 201 



will also cause a loom to bang off. A loose rocker-sliaft will cause 
the loom to bang off and also cause it to be stopped through, the 
filling stop motion. Some of the points have also been explained 
in the different chapters descriptive of the various parts and 
motions. Many of the little troul)les common- to some fixers may 
be avoided l^y following the ideas regarding different methods of 
fixing and the reasons given for such. Special attention should 
be given to the binders for they are probably the most frequent 
cause of trouble. Every fixer should have a straight edge, as it is. 
useful for many purposes, particularly for levelling the boxes with 
the lay or reed. 

The various points will be explained in detail in different 
chapters. 

Banging Off. This term is applied to the action of the loom 
when it is stopped by the dagger striking the receiver, owing to 
the shuttle not being in place. Various causes are as follows : 

Most of the items from 38 to 51 inclusive apply especially to 
the ball and shoe-pick motion. . 

Banging off is the most common occurrence in the defective 
runnmg of a loom, and it is due mainly to changes in the atmo- 
sphere although many fixers lose sight of this. 

1. Supposing the room to be cold, it naturally acts on the 
loom, particularly the boxes, so that the shuttle does not run as freely 
as when it has become warm. The best method to follow is to wipe 
the boxes and the shuttle with dry waste when in the majority of 
cases the loom will run all right. It is possible that it may bang 
off once again, but on starting up it will generally be found that 
the use of a wrench is unnecessary ; and in case of such use chang- 
ing back agam is usually required, when the room becomes warm. 
Occasionally it is well to apply a drop of oil to the binder, the 
merest trifle being sufficient. ■ If the loom is damp wipe the boxes 
and shuttle thoroughly dry, apply a little oil, as above, to the swell, 
and start up again. Should it bang off again rub the face of the 
sliuttle with some fine sandpaper. It may be noticed that when 
the box and shuttle are damp the front of the shuttle becomes 
black from the dampness and friction with the swell. Above 
points apply only when nothing is broken or worn out, and if it 
is found necessary afterwards, to make some alterations no loss 



215 



202 



WEAVING 




Fig. 133. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Shuttle to Bang Off. 



216 



WEAVING 203 



will have been incurred. On the contrary, it is a most beneficial 
lesson to learn to fix a loom as much as possible without a wrench, 
because many defects may be remedied in this way and with a 
great savmg in supplies. 

2. A loom banging off is sometimes caused by the cone 
being worn flat on one side. This may be very slight, but very 
little is sufficient to have this effect. The loom may run well for 
half an hour, or longer, but as soon as the point of the cam comes 
m contact with the flat place on the cone a soft pick is the result, 
and the shuttle not being driven far enough into the box the loom 
bangs off on the next pick. 

3. A partially broken lug-strap has the same effect, because 
the shuttle is not driven with sufiicient force. In repairing the lug- 
strap, it is advisable to connect the new strap in the same position 
as the old. 

4. The picking-stand becoming worn, particularly the iron 
projection on it, which fits into the slot of the shoe and guides 
it, causes the stick to jump because of the shoe catching on it, 
and the result is either the loom bangs off or the shuttle is thrown 
out. 

5. A worn plug in the picker-stand twists the picker-stick, 
causing the shuttle to be thrown crookedly. This plug is easily 
replaced by a new one, and keeping the plug in good condition 
will save a considerable amount of work. 

6. When the pick point of the cam is worn so that the cone 
slides off out of contact with it, a weak pick is caused and conse- 
quent banging off. 

7. If the lug-strap has too long a range the shuttle is 
picked across a little late with the same result. Occasionally, 
though the shuttle may be picked on time, the sweep or power 
stick is too short, causing the strap to become soft with a conse- 
quent loss of power. 

8. A cracked picker-stick is of course lacking m strength, 
and cannot drive the shuttle with sufficient speed to enter the 
opposite box, and the loom bangs off. 

9. Loosening of the shoe-bolt, which attaches the picker- 
stick to the shoe, causes either a soft or a hard jarring pick and the 
loom bangs off on the return. 



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10. The slmttle striking too forcibly in tlie box sometimes 
softens the picker so that there is not the firm throw behind it, 
and as it does not fully enter the opposite box the loom bangs 
off. While many fixers discredit this, they often replace the 
picker. 

11. When the collar, which holds the picker on the picker- 
stick becomes loose, the .shuttle may either be thrown out or the 
loom bang off. The reason for this is that the picker sliding on 
the stick, reduces the power and keeps the back of the shuttle 
down, which, by causing it- to press against the top of the shed on 
entering it, retards the passage through. In many instances the 
collar is loosened by the shuttle rising in the box as it nears the 
back end, and pushing the picker upwards. This may also occur 
when the picker-stick is too far into the box instead of being at 
the back end. 

12. One of two conditions is generally responsible for 
rebounding shuttles ; either the pick is too strong, or the binder 
too loose. As a reboundmg shuttle often results m a smash, it is 
well to use care in ascertaming the cause. By placmg the small 
piece of tube between the extension bolt and the swell, an oppor- 
tmiity is given to watch closely the operation of the loom, and a 
strong pick is readily perceived. Sometimes it is possible to feel 
the jar by placmg the hand on the lay cap, or if it is seen that the 
shuttle goes through the shed at the opposite side, clear of the 
yarn, the strength of the pick may be reduced a little. Do this 
by lengthenmg out the lug-strap, or by raising up the stirrup-strap 
about half an mch, the latter method being preferable. Another 
method of ascertaming the strength of the pick is to place the hand 
flat on the top of the box, with the little finger just over the edge 
of the slot in which the picker-stick moves, known as the picker- 
race, thus covering the slot to the extent of almost four fingers. 
If the picker presses sufficiently hard against it to push the hand 
away, the stick has too strong a pick and too long a range, which 
may be remedied by letting out the lug-strap. Occasionally the 
pick-shaft drops slightly and allows the back end of the cone to 
rest on the cam, m which case a hard pick results. Raising it up 
agam will ease the pick. When the pick is found to be all right, 
the box pressure must be increased, and this must be done with 



218 



WEAVING 205 



allowances for future changes in speed and atmosphere. A very 
slight change is usually sufficient, and many times arranging the 
check-spring at the end of the box will obviate the difficulty. As 
fixing for present conditions generally necessitates altering back 
again for the next change, the best method is to fix for average 
conditions, and thus save time and work. 

13. An early or late pick will cause the loom to bang off. 
The shuttle should- commence to move when the crank is on the 
top center. When the picking motion is late, it may readily be 
noticed by watching the shuttle as it leaves the shed to enter the 
box. The shed closes upon it and the tendency is for the warp 
to become broken. Test the pick from both sides to see if both 
sides are a little late. If so, the probable cause is that the driving 
gears have slipped. Sometimes the key is a little narrower than 
the key-bed in the shaft, and it is only necessary to fit a new key, 
or the key may occasionally work loose, requiring only tightening. 

14. The late pick is also caused by slipping of the pick 
cams, particularly in the case where it is late on one side only. 
For this the only lasting remedy is to either sink the screw into 
the shaft or use a hardened cup-pointed screw which will bite the 
shaft. A common occurrence in tightening up set screws, especi- 
ally m pick-cams, is to twist off the heads. Instead of tightening 
to this extent, it is better to draw up until it tightens agamst the 
shaft, then withdraw a little, tightening up solid after this, when 
it will hold with as strong a grip as possible. 

15. When the shed is too early it closes on the shuttle, and 
when too late there is not sufficient space for the shuttle to enter, 
in either case the shuttle being retarded so that it does not fully 
enter the box. This condition is easily remedied, particularly so 
when the. cams are on an auxiliary shaft, wlien by smiply dis- 
engaging the carrier gear the cams can be set to the right tune and 
gear replaced. Set the cams to have the shed full open with the 
crank on the top center. 

16. When the shed is too small the shuttle is retarded all 
the way across with similar results. With cams constructed on 
correct prmciples, and with treadles of proportionate length, this 
does not often occur ; but when it does, it will generally be found 
that the harnesses can be moved up and down for i inch or I 



219 



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inch, owing to the fact that the harness straps have not been 
equally attached. Frequently in remedying this defect the shed 
is made uneven. Taking up one hole in the strap does not 
always suffice, as they may not be equally spaced, and particular 
attention should be given to having them equal. Harnesses 
last longer when a little play is allowed in attachmg, but this 
should not be enough to alter materially the size of the shed. 

17. A loose rocker shaft allows the lay to spring up and 
interfere with the throw of the shuttle, which is sometimes 
thrown out by this means, as well as causing the loom to bang 
off. It is only necessary to tighten the bearing to remedy this 
defect. 

18. In connection with an adjustable swell, the lock-nut 
working loose allows the bolt to slip back, causing the swell 
to become loose. When the temper leaves the swell, it becomes 
loose and the loom bangs off. The bolt which retams the 
binder in its frame shows the effect very quickly on becommg 
loose by ripping pieces out of the shuttle. 

19. Picker-sticks of poor quality will spring and bend, 
causing a soft pick, and a new stick is the only remedy. Usmg 
cheap picker-sticks is false economy, as good hickory sticks at 
slightly higher cost last many times longer. Picker-sticks have 
been known toTun for five years, and on high-speeded looms 
which ran continuously. 

20. On some looms, collars are fitted on the end of the pick- 
cam shaft to prevent the shaft from slipping, and if a collar 
loosens, the shaft will move when the pick is takmg place, allow- 
ing the cam to leave the cone, with the result of either a soft or a 
hard jarrmg pick. 

21. Key of driving gears too narrow. Covered under 13. 

22. Broken heel-straps alloA^ the sticks to jump, and as 
the stick does not return to place more power is required behind 
the shuttle to drive it to the end of the box. 

23. A loose or weak spring has the same effect. 

24. When the reed is not level with the back of the box it 
is known as an over-faced reed, when in front of its correct 
position, and an under-faced reed when behind. The shuttle is 
caused to run crookedly in either case, and more power is 



220 



WEAVING 207 



required to drive a shuttle crookedly because being turned out of 
its course it strikes the front of the box. A few minutes spent 
m setting the reed level with the back of the box will save many 
hours of fixing, as well as adding greatly to the time the shuttle 
will last. If the reed is over-faced or under-faced it is easily 
detected through small pieces being chipped out of the shuttle. 
Single wires in the reed becoming bent forward will also cause 
the shuttle to run crookedly, and in time the shuttle wears them 
so that they become sharp and cut the yarn, especially the filling, 
when the lay beats up. This is one of the causes of stitching. 
The back of the shuttle becomes worn wavy by these dents. 

25. A tight lug-strap binds the picker-stick, thus causing 
the stick to jump when motion is imparted to it, and the shuttle 
is driven crookedly, with the usual result that it is stopped before 
fully entering the box. 

26. When the warp is held under too much tension the 
shed is drawn together, leaving insufficient space for the shuttle 
to pass through, and the loom bangs off, or it sometimes causes a 
smash. 

27. The bottom of the box at the entrance should be level 
with the race-plate. If it is too high, the shuttle strikes agamst 
it and is thrown against the top; while if too low, the shuttle 
strikes against the top of the box and there is too little space for 
it to enter. Either fault will cause the loom to bang off by pre- 
venting the shuttle from entering the box, and will also splmter 
the shuttles, making them so rough that they will constantly 
break out the warp. When the boxes are not level with the 
race-plate it is best to look for the cause, rather than immediately 
alter the position of the lifting rod or chain connections. Some- 
times only one box is out of position, and any alteration of the 
lifting rod or chain would affect all the boxes, making the 
trouble worse. If the collar on the lifting rod slips a trifle it 
allows the bottom of the chain-bolt to drop, and the bracket and 
the boxes are lifted too high. A chain pulley-stud becommg 
worn allows the boxes to be too low. One or two Imks of the 
lifting chain being worn will cause one or two boxes to be too 
low without affectmg the others. To remedy this a thin piece of 
wire may be attached to the under part of the link, thus lifting 



221 



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the boxes slightly higher when that link passes over the pulley. 
Other causes of single boxes being out of position are : the lever 
which lifts that special box having slipped, and the chain twisting 
and riding on the edge of the pulley or dropping from the large 
to the small pulley. 

28. Yarn clinging in the shed hinders the shuttle from 
passing through freely. It may be the result of poor sizing, m- 
correct timing of the shed, or too small a shed, the remedies for 
which are manifest. 

29. In connection with fancy looms sometimes a harness 
drops when the shuttle is .passing through the shed, in this way 
holding the shuttle and causing the loom to bang off. More will 
be said of this later. 

30. A worn face on the friction driving pulley causes the 
loom to bang off, owing to a slackening of the power, with a 
resultant soft pick. As the belt sometimes slips it is best to 
determine just where the fault lies. This may be tested as fol- 
lows : Remove the shuttle, draw the lay forward until the dagger 
is almost in the receiver, and then draw on the shipper-handle 
watching the pulley at the same time. If it stops, the friction is 
all right, and the fault is with the belt, which may be remedied 
by cleaning with a piece of card clothing and applying a little 
belt dressing. Dry slaked lime is one of the best remedies for a 
greasy friction, but a worn pulley must be replaced. Occasion- 
ally the driving pulley becomes just sufficiently loose on the shaft 
to give an uneven motion on starting up, especially when a 
heavy pattern is bemg woven, or one having changes from a light 
to a heavy lift. This looseness may be hardly perceptible, and 
yet be sufficient to cause much trouble. 

31. If the picker is worn it imparts an uneven motion to the 
shuttle, and also a soft pick, especially if worn too large around 
the picker-spmdle. Should the hole be too deep in the picker, 
the shuttle is bound and the boxes will not change freely. A 
crooked or warped picker will not slide freely in the slot and the 
shuttle is not driven with enough force. 

32. Incorrect timing of the boxes has the effects described 
under 27. The boxes should be timed according to previous in- 
structions. 



22: 



WEAVING 209 



33. Looseness of the boxes in the slides not only causes a 
soft pick, but also is the cause of the shuttle becommg broken 
and flying out. When the motion is imparted to the picker- 
stick, instead of the shuttle alone receiving it, the boxes, being 
loose, are carried forward and the front end is thrown below the 
race-plate, causmg the shuttle to strike the end of the plate. 

34. If the boxes bind in the slides they will not move 
freely and the shuttle being crooked in the box cannot be thrown 
straight. 

35. Worn binder pin and pm-hole. 

36. Loose crank-arms. 

37. Occasionally one crank-arm will wear out faster than 
the other without being noticed, or new ones will be slightly un- 
equal and the throw of the lay will consequently be uneven. 
This causes the loom to bang off. Binding crank-arms have the 
same effect. 

38. Shoes slipping will cause the loom to bang off because 
of a soft pick, but if they are fixed according to instructions 
given they will rarely work loose. Unless the shoes are worn, 
tightening is sufficient to remedy the trouble. 

39. Worn shoes have the same effect as loose ones, but the 
only satisfactory remedy is to fit new ones. A worn shoe 
oftentmies wears the shaft also, so that the shoe will not fit 
squarely upon it, and the shaft will also require repairmg. 

40. Lack of oil causes the pick-ball to bind. This will spoil 
the ball and stud and the only satisfactory remedy is to replace it. 

41. It is uupossible to obtain a good picking action if the 
pick shaft binds, and this is one of the causes of a loom requiring 
more power when picking from one side than the other. To test 
the shaft remove the sweep-stick and turn by hand, when any 
binding will become apparent and the bearings can be set to 
remedy. 

42. When the pick-ball and stud become worn, the best 
remedy is to replace them with new ones. Fit the stud in the 
slot of the extension as snugly as possible, with the collar flat 
against the casting. Lack of attention to this small detail means 
constant fixmg and tightening of the stud, which otherwise 
would not be required. 



223 



210 WEAVING 



43. A worn sweep-stick allows too much play to the lug 
strap and stick, with a consequent loss of power. The sweep- 
stick should be riveted at the end to strengthen it. Set the 
sweep-stick and lug-strap in a direct line from the picking-stick 
to the pickmg-arm when the crank shaft is just behhid the top 
center, as it is at this time that the hardest pull comes on the 
pick motion. Failure to set the sweep-sticli in this manner 
causes the studs in the picking arms to become loose, or if the 
stud is cast with the arm, tends to break it off, or makes the hole 
in the sweep-stick longer. It is also a cause of the picking-arm 
breaking because of behig twisted. The sweep-stick and lug- 
strap should be set as nearly level as possible with the stirrup- 
strap on the outside of the stick. A leather or rawhide washer 
should be placed between tlie split pin in tlie picking-arm stud 
and the sweep-stick. Old pickers may be cut up for this pur- 
pose. Sometimes a sweep-stick is too long and it comes in 
contact with the dog as the picking-stick is drawn in. This will 
not only cause the loom to bang off, but will sometimes throw 
'the shuttle. For looms with from 28 inches to 42 inches reed 
space, a sweep-stick of 6 inches to 7 niches will be found to give 
good results. 

44. On narrow looms the picking-arm is changeable, being 
placed in a bracket fixed to the pick-shaft. When these get 
loose the result is either a soft pick or a hard jarring pick, accord- 
ing to the way they slip. An iron wedge is usually placed 
between the stick and set screw to prevent undue wearing. 

45. When the pick-shaft is loose, it is forced away from 
the ball and there is a loss of power. Before fixing the picking- 
arm to the shaft it should be examined, and any rough places 
filed smooth. It does not pay to tighten up the arm unless it 
fits squarely on the shaft, as otherwiae it soon becomes loose and 
spoils the shaft. 

46. Loose driving pulley. 

47. Different weights and sizes of shuttles cannot be used 
on a loom at the same time, as the power to drive them would 
have to vary proportionately. 

48. Shuttles worn round on the back and bottom are 



S^4 



WEAVING 211 



equally bad, as they cannot be driven straight, and often turn 
over in crossing the lay. 

49. Worn wood pulley. 

50. If the binder pin and hole is worn, there will be an 
uneven pressure on the shuttle, dependhig upon how the shuttle 
strikes the binder. 

Explanation of Fig. 133 on Page 202. 
A and B. Worn picking cones. 

C. Worn picking ball. 

D. Worn knob or pick shaft point. 

E. F, and G. Worn pick poinls. 
H. Worn bearing for bottom shaft. 
I, Worn shoe. 

J. Worn power-stick. 
Shuttle Flying Out. A number of the causes of the loom 
banging off are also the cause of the shuttle flying out, so that in 
this section when the same cause occurs, reference to those points 
will be made by number and the explanation can be found in the 
previous chapter. 

4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 
28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 48. 

50. Also, worn picking stick. 

51. Worn shuttle. 

52. Loose top shed. 

58. Bottom shed too high off the race-plate. 

54. Worn spindle- stud. 

55. Yarn clinging together in the shed. 

56. Race-plate loose. 

57. Feelers too low in the shed. 

58. Shuttle spindle-pin working through the back of the shuttle. 

59. Harness spring broken or weak, not pulling the harness 

low enough for the yarn to be on the race-plate. 

60. Loose crank-arms. 

Reed over and under faced, that is, in some way the reed has 
become bent so that it is forward from the level of the back of the 
box. This causes the shuttle to strike against that part, be it ever 
so little, and the nose of the shuttle is turned out from the reed. 
The way to straighten this is to have a fiat piece of iron held 



235 



212 WEAVING 



against the back of the reed, and straighten the end of the reed 
with a flat-faced hammer, also assist the reed by softenmg the 
pitch that is around the casing of the reed, and in this manner they 
can often be returned to a straight position, but if the whole reed 
is out of square, then it would have to be trued up, and sometimes 
this can be done by altering the lay cap. If the reed being over 
faced does not throw the shuttle out, it has a tendency to spoil the 
shuttle by splintermg it at the back where it first comes in contact 
with the reed, and this often breaks the yarn out, because when 
the weaver is placing the shuttle in the box it is apt to be turned 
a little causing the splintered portion to rub against the yarn. A 
loose picker will cause the shuttle to fly out, because the picker 
slides on the stick to any position the shuttle forces it, and when 
the stick is at the end of the stroke, mstead of the shuttle being 
slightly elevated at the back, it is down on the race-plate, and the 
top of the -hole of the picker strikes the tip of the shuttle, and the 
nose of the shuttle is raised up, consequently it will usually fly out. 

Another cause is the shed openmg too late and there is not 
sufficient space for the shuttle to enter it, the result is either the 
shuttle is thrown out on the first pick, or it is retarded so much 
that it does not go far enough in the box at the opposite side, but 
still sufficiently to raise up the dagger, and on the next pick the 
picker strikes the shuttle when the pick is at its quickest time, and 
m this way the shuttle is often thrown out. The shed closmg too 
soon will also have the same effect as too early a shed. 

When that portion of the picking-stick is worn which comes 
in contact with the picker, it causes a jump to the picker and, con- 
sequently jumps the shuttle. It is best to round off the corners of 
the worn place, or replace with a new stick. Worn shuttle means 
a shuttle that is round on the back and bottom, such a shuttle 
will not hug the reed, with the result that it often flies out. If 
the bottom shed is too high off the race-plate, the shuttle is thrown 
up as it leaves the box ; a sunilar result occurs from cause 59. A 
worn spindle stud is the general cause of persons being mjurecl by 
shuttles flying out. When the stud is Avom and the picking-stick 
works forward, the stud has a tendency to work out from the box, 
which means that the picker will draw the back end of the shuttle 
to the back of the box, forcmg out the front end of the shuttle ; 



226 



WEAVING 



213 




Fig. 134. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Stiuttle to Fly Out. 



327 



214 WEAVING 



the consequence is, instead of tlie shuttle being controlled in a 
measure, it is away from its support and will fly out. A common 
practice is to pack the worn stud with leather. It is dangerous to 
fix because the leather has a tendency to become loose after a few 
picks have been run. Steel cups can be purchased from the loom 
makers for the purpose of filling in the hole of the worn stud. 

Yarn clinging in the shed may be the result of poor sizing, 
wrong tuning of the shed, or too small a shed. Somethnes the 
race-plate becomes loose in the center, also at the sides, but more 
often the former, and in nineteen out of every twenty cases the 
fault is not seen until ahnost everything else has been done to fix 
the fault. This is owing to the yarn covering the race-plate. 
Such a fault will show itself on the shuttle, for the latter will be 
chipped on the top owing to striking the top of the boxes. If the 
filling motion feelers are lo^Y in the shed, they mterfere with the 
passing of the shuttle acrosc the lay. Sometimes the back of 
the shuttle will be so much worn that the spindle-pin protrudes 
and catches the reed. If a harness spring is broken or weak, it 
will not pull down the harness, so that the 3^arn is up off the race- 
plate. This causes the shuttle to run crooked. If the crank-arms 
are loose, there is an uneven motion to the lay, which causes the 
shuttle to fly out generally as the crank is passing over the top 
center. 

Explanation of Fig. 134 on Page 213. 

A and B. Worn shuttles caused by under or over-faced reed. 

C. Worn shuttle caused by boxes being too high or too low. 

D. Worn picker. 

E. Worn projection on picking stand. 

Uneven Cloth; meaning shady cloth and cloth with thick and 
thin places. 

Late or early shed. 

Small shed. 

Loose rocker shaft bearing. 

Odd crank-arms. 

Loose crank-arms. 

Loose reed. 

Uneven shed. 

Uneven filling. 



228 



WEAVING 215 



Gudgeons or beam spikes bent. 

Broken beam flanges. 

Worn wliip-roll. 

Damp friction. 

Take-up motion out of order. 

Tin or sand roller bearing worn. 

Loose perforated tin or tin roller. 

Too deep in gear with beam head. 

Upright shaft binding. 

Worn stud on oscillating lever. 

Rough teeth on beam head. V Gear Let off. 

Pawl and spring worn. 

Spring worn in boss of upright lever. 

Oily friction s.trap. 

Worn ratchet. 

Rope twisted around the beam liead. 

Cloth under friction band in a grimy condition. 

Friction lever resting on the band or beam head. 

Crooked beam head so that it touches the whip-roll when the 
crooked portion comes round. 

Too much pull on the friction cloth roller will strain the cloth, 
and occasionally causes two teeth to be taken up on the take- 
up motion. 

Uneven setting of the harness. 

A number of the above causes suggest the remedy. 

Uneven Cloth. This is one of the hardest things to contend 
with especially in a weave room where the humidity is not under 
control. The friction let-off naturally feels the effect of the 
dampness more than the gear let-off, although in some cases the 
strap that checks somewhat the let-off of the gear is influenced by 
dampness. The friction let-off is most certainly the best, take it 
as a whole, that is, the rope wrapped around the beam head, or it 
may be a chain, an iron band or raw hide. These most certainly 
give the best results if attended to, but if allowed to go as they 
please, as the common term is, they are the worst form of let-off. 
If the rope has become sticky, a little powdered black lead will 
soon remedy this defect. French chalk is often used, and with 
good results, but this is more liable than graphite to cake and 
become sticky with change of atmosphere or if some oil is acciden- 



229 



216 



WEAVING 



tally dropped on the beaia head. There are some fixers who have 
used oil on the beam head, clabning that it allowed the rope to 
slip more freely, but the very same fixers have been seen to take 
great pams in wipmg off the oil under other circumstances. It 
sometimes happens that uneven cloth is caused by the spil^e or 
gudgeon in tlie beam having been sprung ; this is caused by bang- 
ing the beam on the floor, and as the yarn is drawn off, the uneven 
turn of the beam causes unequal let-off of the yarn. 

The take-up motion is often the cause of uneven cloth. The 




Fig. 135. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Uneven Cloth. 

majority of take-up motions that are on the two pick principle, 
that is, receiving motion from the pick cam shaft, are constructed 
so that with a little change they can be made to take up two teeth 
at a time. Under this construction, it is natural then that the 
ratchet gear has a little play more than what is necessary to take 
up one tooth, because it is owmg to the loss of a portion of a tooth 
by the check-pawl, and a portion also by the take-up lever that the 
motion only takes up one tooth. The converging of these points 
and the usmg of the loss of space travelled by the take-up lever and 



230 



WEAVING 217 



the clieck-pawl, enables the motion to take up two teeth. If the 
ratchet gear does not swmg a little and work perfectly free, then one 
can expect an uneven cloth, because instead of swinging back a lit- 
tle to meet the check-pawl, the gear stays in the position to which 
it is drawn by the take-up lever, and this will occasionally cause 
two teeth to be taken up. Uneven spun yarn makes a bad looking 
cloth, and this is sometimes called a cockly cloth. The uneven 
settmg of the harness will cause uneven cloth, that is, the harness 
not lifting equally at both sides, or an uneven shed, one lifting 
higher than the other. When using a gear let-off, a fixer cannot 
be too careful at the first startmg up of the warp to see that all is 
straight, and that the gear which is in contact with the beam head 
is not too deep in gear. This is one of the most common causes of 
complaint, because the teeth around the beam head are not always 
as clean as they might be. Small chips of iron are on the inner 
edge of the teeth, and if the driving gear is too deep when the 
beam has been turned to where the rough teeth are, the warp will 
jump, and, m this way cause these places. 

Sometimes the gear is m right pitch with the beam head, and 
yet thin places are caused ; the possibility is that the beam spike 
is sprung causmg an uneven contact with the driving gear. If the 
stud on which the rod is placed is worn, uneven cloth will be the 
result, and sometunes the spring that keeps the pawl m contact 
with the ratchet gear has lost its strength, and occasionally the 
pawl will slip over the teeth of the ratchet instead of engaging m 
them. This causes an uneven let-off. This little system of look- 
mg before one uses a wrench comes m handy, for by the moving 
of the small collar, a great difference in the let-off will be the result: 
On a let-off motion, a sprmg is often placed in contact with the 
upright lever. This assists m bringing back the lever and at the 
same tune the pawl; if the spring should slip, uneven cloth is 
sometunes caused, but not often, as it cannot be called a vital 
pomt in the let-off motion. The pawl will sometunes miss turn- 
ing the ratchet gear owmg to the pawl being worn, and this point 
is often overlooked, the same as the spring. Uneven cloth is often 
caused by the arm that supports the whip-roll being worn, and if 
there is much vibration of the whip-roll, this has a tendency to 
raise a little out of the place that is worn, and if the ends of the 



331 



218 WEAVING 



whip-roll are worn unevenly so that if the roll moves around a 
little, it is raised higher up, consequently uneven cloth will be the 
result. A round whip-roll is the best if the bearings are kept 
clean and well oiled ; it moves around with the yarn as it is drawn 
off the beam and there is less possibility of the yarn wearing 
grooves in the roll, as it often does in what is termed a flat whip- 
roll, explained more fully under the head of " Construction of a 
loom." 

When the rocker shaft bearing is loose, there is an uneven 
movement to lay when beating up. If the crank-arm is loose, or 
one is slightly longer than the other, the reed does not beat up 
evenly ; a loose reed gives the same result. If a beam flange is 
broken, when the heavier side is passing down, it goes down more 
quickly than when the broken side is passing down, especially is 
this so when fancy cloths are being woven, and it is not uncom- 
mon to add a weight to the broken side to balance the beam. 
When the bearing for the sand roller is worn, the roller jumps, 
causing cloudy cloth. Loose perforated tin will sometimes over- 
lap, causing a thin place in the cloth. Occasionally the guide 
roller will come loose and turn, and if it has not been set straight, 
uneven cloth will be the result. If the cloth under the friction 
band is allowed to remain on too long, it becomes sticky, and 
allows the beam to let off in jumps. Occasionally when attaching 
the friction, the knot in the cloth is allowed to remain under the 
friction band and this will cause very uneven let-off. If the fric- 
tion lever is allowed to rest on the band or beam head, it will pre- 
vent the proper letting off of the warp. 

Sometimes the weight will touch the floor, or the weight from 
a top beam touches the lower beanio If the beam head is crooked, 
when it turns round it will touch the whip-roll. If there is too 
much pull on the friction cloth roller the cloth will be strained, 
and it will also occasionally cause two teeth to be taken up on the 
ratchet gear. If the harnesses are not set level, shady djed cloth 
will almost certainly be the result, because the sheds being lower 
on that side the cloth is a trifle thicker, the consequence is that 
there is a difference in the absorption of the dye stuff. The cen- 
ter harness connection on the Knowles Loom was designed to over- 
come this. If one edge of the cloth is slack through the fault of 



232 



WEAVING 219 



the temple, shady piece dyed cloth will result. Sometimes there 
are distinct cracks in the cloth, and in nine cases out of every ten, 
they are caused by slack yarn, especially is this so with cam work 
of four or more harnesses. Notice the cloth that is woven and one 
will see the defects occur almost regularly. Then w^atch the loom, 
and the probable cause will be the yarn is slack on one certain har- 
ness, and when the filling is beaten up the slack yarn forms in a 
rub wdiich prevents the close beating up of the filling, raising that 
harness up a little to tighten the yarn. 

Explanation of Fig. 135 on Page 216. 

A. Worn link, 

B. Worn treadle-pin. 

C. Worn treadle-plug. 

D. Worn treadle-bowl. 

E. Worn connecting rod of let-off motion. 



233 




VELVET LOOM V/ITH SIDE CAMS AND NORTHROP FILLING SUPPLY 

Mason Machine Co. 



WEAVING. 

PART III. 



Poor Selvedges and Poor Cloth in General. There is no 
doubt that a poor selvedge detracts considerably from the value of 
a piece of cloth, the remark is often made, " Oh that will pass." 
Not so, there is nothing that looks worse on the counter than a 
ragged selvedge. It would be surprising to many people to know 
how much easier it is to sell cloth with a good selvedge than with 
a poor one. A piece of cloth has been known to pass muster owing 
to having a good selvedge and yet the body of the cloth has been 
rough looking through faulty filling. However good the body of 
the cloth may be, if the selvedge is poor, all looks bad. The. 
sooner the fixers commence to give attention to the makmg of good 
salable cloth, the quicker will be the response from the employer 
to the effect that he recognizes that he has men working for him 
who are able to think, and plan to turn off the best of cloth and 
not go about their work m that careless " anything will go " fashion. 
How is it that there are some mills that have so good a name that 
a person leavmg the place after working there a length of time can 
work m almost any mill? The reason is, the -cloth that is turned 
out by this mill is first class, and the working people must be in 
line with such a system or the mill could not have attained the 
fame it has. There is no reason why any fixer, no matter where 
he works, should not have the same reputation. If the shed is 
a trifle too small as the shuttle enters, it has a tendency to twist 
the outside threads ; this defect will make a poor selvedge, also if 
the shuttle is low at 'the back as the nose enters the shed, twisted 
threads will be the result. The wrong timing of the harnesses will 
cause a poor selvedge. The best time to set the harnesses for 
ahnost all cases is to have "them level, when the reed is about 1|" 
or If" from the cloth on narrow looms. Too large a shed will 
cause a poor selvedge, as it opens out the yarn too much and 



23b 



222 WEAVING 



causes the threads to spread out, makmg an open space between 
each two. Especially is this shown when a full cop or bobbin is 
placed on the spindles of the shuttle, and when the filling is near 
the bottom of the cop or bobbin, the added friction causes the 
selvedge ends to be drawn in a little, closing up the spaces some- 
what between the ends, and a common result from this is that as 
the yarn passes through the temple, the fillmg is broken, causing a 
hole m the selvedge. When there is not sufficient friction on the 
filling, it is liable to curl up on the selvedge. 

The following are a number of "*ways of inserting friction : 
The fixmg of a small bunch of yarn near the inside end of the 
eyelet, accomplished by boring a small hole, in the shuttle and 
fixing the bunch of yarn in the hole by a wooden peg. When 
weaving heavy counts of filling, friction is often added by the use 
of several stiff bristles. These are fixed to the shuttle, by means 
of a wooden peg, the hole for the peg being made in the 
side of the shuttle, so that the bristles will rest on the top of the 
filling, but near tlie end. This method can also be used when an 
extra large cop or extra full bobbin is placed in the shuttle. The 
pressure of the bristles on the filling prevents it from slipping off 
in bunches. A baggy shed will cause a poor selvedge, that is a 
shed where the . warp yarn hangs down ; and as the filling is 
laid in the shed, instead of being drawn straight through, it 
catches on the yarn, and as the pick . is beatmg up the filling 
curls, makes not only a poor selvedge but a ragged cloth. 
If the shuttle strikes a little too hard in the box, a poor sel- 
vedge is often the result, owing to there being a greater length 
of filling from shuttle to cloth than there otherwise would be. 
When adding friction on cop filling, one cannot be too careful, for 
if the friction is not evenly balanced the filling is generally cut in 
the selvedge as the cloth passes through the temple, but this will 
only occur when the filling nears the bottom of the cop, for at this 
point it lies close to the spindle of the shuttle, and a very little 
friction is sufficient to make the filling draw off extra tight. The 
best way at first to add friction to cop filling is to open out the end 
of the shuttle spindle. This helps to tighten the cop at the nose, 
and in a number of instances this amount of friction will answer 
requirements ; if it does not, reduce the distance that the spindle 



236 



WEAVING 223 



has been spread out and add a little friction to the eyelet of the 
shuttle, using either a small piece of felt or flannel. 

By reducing the spreading out of the spindle, the friction is 
taken off the bottom of the cop, which can be run almost with- 
out friction, and by adtlaig the piece of flannel or felt, you add the 
friction for the commencement of the cop, the filling occupying a 
large space as it draws off, and as the cop is reduced in size the 
filling clings around. the spindle, this in a sense takes off the fric- 
tion that was added by the insertion of the flannel, so that taking 
both points into consideration considerable trouble will be saved, 
besides givmg better cloth. Often the temple not being perfectly 
straight, that is, the face of the temple nearest the reed in the line 
with the fell of the- cloth, causes the filling to be broken m the 
selvedge threads as the cloth passes through the temple. This is 
caused by the uneven pulling of the burr with the cloth. An 
extra large shed and uneven shedding will also cause this defect ; 
and keepmg the temple firm will cause the filling to be broken. 

It would be well to fix a piece of leather to the front of the lay, 
so that as the lay comes forward to beat up the filling the leather on 
the lay will come in contact with the lip of the temple, and force 
the temple back to about i'' to i". This allows a little yielding 
of the cloth when the reed is in contact with it. The temple can be 
forced out too far, and the result desired will not be obtamed. If 
the pin that holds the burr in the temple is rusty, holes in the 
selvedge will be the result. A badly worn burr will sometimes 
cause the fiUmg to be broken in the selvedge by not having grip 
enough on the cloth, and when the reed is beating up the filling 
the yarn has to be spread out so much to be in line with the reed 
that the filling is broken, especially if there has been too much 
friction on the bottom of the cop. It is very seldom that this 
defect occurs in a full shuttle. Sometimes this defect is caused 
by a late pieked shuttle, but only when nearing the bottom of the 
cop. This is caused by the extra strain on the selvedge as the 
shuttle forces its way through the selvedge threads ; it draws back 
the cloth at the same time from under the temple. If the filling 
catches in the box on the picker, or in any way is held mstead of 
passing clear into the shed, as soon as it becomes loose, it is dragged 
into the shed, forming a thick place. By watchmg the loom for a 
short time, this is very soon remedied. 



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224 WEAVING 



If the waip has been run on a slasher that has had a narrow 
press roll, however slight it might have been, poor selvedge will 
be the result ; the portion that the press roll does not touch is 
more loose and occupies a large circumference on the beam, and 
as the warp is drawn off the threads become slack, and a good 
selvedge cannot be made with slack yarn. If a warp has been 
made and the tension has been changed on the spools, it is liable 
to cause kinky filling, and sometimes when cotton yarn is run 
with the woolen yarn, if there has been too much friction on the 
cotton spools, kinky filling will be the result. Woolen yarn 
stretches more than cotton yarn, and allowance must be made. 
Whatever kind of warps are being made, if there is more than one 
kind of yarn in the warp, due allowance must be made for the 
difference in the stretch of the yarns. 

When backed cloths are made and the warp is on one beam, 
it often happens that the yarn forming the backing cloth becomes 
loose. To overcome this fault the whip-roll has often to be 
changed. Raising the whip-roll will make the bottom shed tight 
and the top shed loose ; lowermg the roll will have the opposite 
effect. Closing the shed a trifle earlier will often cure kinky 
filling, but care must be taken as a return result may be kmky 
warp yarn, especially if there is a sudden change from a light to 
heavy lift of harness. If the fiUmg is clear and the warp alone is 
kinking, often by the changmg of the whip-roll, adjusting the 
weight, and having a late shed, the kmks can be overcome. If 
the feelers get down in the lay too soon or they rest very heavily 
on the filling, kinks will result. By adding a small amount of 
weight to the feeler base, this will be remedied. Often by placmg 
a piece of wire m the feeler slot, so that it will come up between 
the feelers, kinky filling will be prevented. If filling or warp is 
kinky, and the shed is bemg changed to overcome the fault, due 
consideration must be given to the pattern that is being woven, 
and the timing of the boxes, for if the whole shell is changed, the 
timing of the boxes will be changed, and the change bemg made 
without thought has been the cause of many breaks. The pattern 
also makes a difference. If there is a sudden change from a hght 
to a heavy lift of warp, the shed will not close as soon as when 
even sheds are being lifted, that is, the heavy lift and the light 



238 



WEAVING 225 



lift coming together will not liave the effect of holding the filling 
as tight as an even shecl will, not until the harnesses have passed 
each other. The great causes of kinky filling are uneven or too 
strong a pick, or poor tension on the filling in the shuttle. 

Filling Breaking. Bobbins Breaking. 

Spindle too small for the cop tube. 

Pick too strong. 

Loose binder. 

Rebounding shuttle. 

Boxes too high or too low. 

Over and underfaced reed. 

Crooked running shuttle. 

Worn shuttle. 

Bottom shed high off the race-plate. 

Temple too high. 

Loose crank-arms. 

Soft spun bobbins. 

Filling Breaking. There is a distinctive difference between 
filling breaking and filling being cut, or cutting filling. The 
term "iDreaking " means if using cop filling, the cop will break on 
the spmcUe and will come off in a bunch, and if not caught m 
tmie will cause a break ; the same with the bobbin, the filling 
comes off in bunches. With cops there are two or three causes 
for this. The tube on which the cop is spun may be too large for 
the shuttle spindle. This can often be overcome by opening out 
the shuttle spmdle at the back, inserthig a small piece of leather or 
tube, but at the same time remember the fact that you can open 
the spmdle out too far, so that when the cop filling has run off. 
near to the bottom, there will be too much drag on the yarn, and 
the fiUmg will be constantly breaking. This point is often over- 
looked and it is the cause of a great amount of waste, for m the 
endeavor to draw the cop down the spindle, when it is three-quarters 
woven off, the rest of the cop is spoiled and becomes waste. It 
hardly seems possible somethnes that the cop can be too tight on the 
spmdle, but it can. As a proof of this, how often one sees a 
weaver when the filling has almost run out, and it has broken, 
mstead of drawing the cop bottom off tlie spindle, the tube has 
to be cut off, and when this is done, it must have been stretched 
considerably, and at the same time the filling has had all the 



J?39 



226 WEAVING 



nature stretched out of it. Sometimes fixers have worked on a 
loom for what they thought was the filling cut, whereas it was 
the spmdle that was opened out, without due thought for the 
reason. The filling breaking can be remedied by openmg out the 
point end of the shuttle spindle. If opened too far, it will 
certainly help to break the filling. For example, suppose the 
spmdle has been opened too far, and the filling has broken, draw 
down the remamder of the cop nearer to the spindle point, and in 
nine out of every ten cases, the filling will run off all right. This 
then shows that there is added strain on the yarn under such 
circumstances. 

Filling can be prevented from breaking off at the shoulder 
whether cop or bobbin, by the use of a few stiff bristles. These 
can be inserted in the same manner, as explamed, in adding 
tension to the filling. If the filling breaks lower down than the 
shoulder on the cop or bobbin, in the majority of cases it is 
because the pick is too heavy, or possibly the boxes are not tight 
enough. If it is possible to take off a little pick, by all means do 
it, for any practical man knows that the reducing of the power of 
the pick is economy in supplies and labor. If the boxes are not 
tight enough it is an easy matter to close them in, but be governed 
by understanding the reason why, because if the box is made the 
least bit tighter than necessary, when startmg up the speed after 
being stopped for noon hour, or over night, in all probability the 
loom will bang off. Tighten the box as little as possible. Some- 
times the breakmg of the filling can be overcome by the alteration 
of the check spring at the end of the box, so tliat it will offer a 
greater resistance to the shuttle. Tlie following question was 
asked in an examination in Weaving, and the answer to the 
question may possibly be beneficial to some one : 

Supposing you received a quantity of cop filling, tlie cops 
beino- longer than the previous ones that were used, covering 
almost the entire length of the shuttle spindle, and there is a ten- 
dency for this filling to break off, what means would you employ 
to overcome this difficulty with the least amount of waste, the 
shuttle being the standard size for the mill, and the spindle beuig 
of regulation length? This is tlie answer: Press down the cop 
on the spindle as fumly as possible, takmg care not to twist it. 



2^0 



WEAVING 227 



take off a little pick, then the shuttle naturally requires less 
resistance when entering the box, so that by loosening the spring 
on the binder, the shuttle will enter into the box more freely, yet 
not with sutacient power to break the filling. Adjust the check 
sprhig if necessary, and add a few bristles to the shuttle. This 
has actually been tried and proved to be all right. 

The bobbins in the shuttle are more often split through 
the shuttle strikmg the top of the box than from any other 
cause. The cause may be the bottom shed off the race-plate, 
boxes changing too soon, or a crooked running shuttle. If the 
bobbin fits tightly on the spindle and the pick is too strong, 
broken bobbins will sometimes be the result. The box a trifle low 
and a small shed or late shed is a cause of shuttle turning ; also 
temple too high. 

Filling Being Cut. 

Poor shaped swells. 

Pick too strong. 

Flat faced shuttle. 

Sharp eyelet in shuttle. 

Flat shuttle. 

Box entrance too narrow. 

Sharp edges on groove in swell. 

Loose picker collar. 

Worn projection on picking stand. 

Wrong setting of the temples. 

Sharp dents in the reed. 

Sharp filling fork and grate. 

Feelers too heavy for tender filling. 

Wrong timing of the filling motion. 

Fork resting on the bottom of the lay. 

Uneven yarn. 

Threads clinging in the shed. 

Wrong timing of shed. 

Uneven shedding. 

Crooked running shuttle. 

Cutting Filling. This work often causes a great amount of 
trouble, especially when mispicks are made either in plain or fancy 
cloths, particularly in fancy cloths. Take for mstance on a leno 
pattern, and the mispick is towards the center of the cloth, the 



241 



228 WEAVING 



sides of the cloth being all right, if this should happen at the 
crossing pick the pattern is spoiled. The cause of this will be 
explained later. The causes of filling being cut are numerous. A 
prevention for the filling being cut in a general sense is a well 
shaped swell. A bow shaped swell is of no value m any case, for 
as explained in the fixing of the pick, it requires a great amount 
of power to drive a shuttle in a box with a bow or blunt shaped 
swell attached to it, and why some loom makers persist in making 
these swells is unaccountable. They do, however, and the shuttle 
has not run half a day before the face around the eyelet has been 
worn flat, and this is one of the many causes of the filling being 
cut. The eyelet will become sharp, and then the best method to 
pursue in repairmg it is to make the eyelet smooth with a piece of 
emery, and drive the eyelet a little further into the shuttle. This 
will allow the groove in the shuttle to be made a little deeper, 
which is an essential point in the running of a shuttle. 

The blunt shape will not only wear off the groove in the 
shuttle, but will also cause the shuttle face to chip, and this is often 
the cause of the filling being cut, besides sometimes cutting the 
warp threads. If the groove in the face of the shuttle is worn, the 
filling will most certainly be cut. This causes the filling to be 
pressed against the swell or the front end of the box and as the 
shuttle passes in, it will be cut. It is an easy matter to file a 
deeper and wider groove or have the carpenter plane a groove in 
the shuttle. A flat shuttle has been known to cut the filling, 
especially when the groove on the bottom of the shuttle is worn. 
This is another reason why it is best to elevate the back of the 
shuttle a little; if it is not elevated, it will rub on the filling as 
the shuttle passes out of the box. A shuttle that rises slightly in 
the box, especially if the edges of the groove in the swell are a 
httle sharp, or when using a flat faced swell, the rising shuttle will 
often cause filling to be cut. 

One of the best remedies is to take the swell from the box, 
place it m the vice and bend it over a little at the top, a very little 
is sufficient and m the majority of cases this rule will be found to 
give the desired result ; not only does it keep the shuttle down 
but it prevents the cutting of the filling because the face of the 
shuttle- is clear from the swell. The entrance of the box can be 



242 



WEAVING 229 



filed a little at the bottom and this will materially assist in the 
prevention and it is far preferable to attachmg a strip of leather, 
for the leather soon looks dirty, besides blackenmg the filling if 
care is not taken. A small piece of leather can be placed behmd 
the swell at the top, near where it is bolted to the loose part of the 
box, bnt it is preferable to bend the swell, for then it is permanent. 
This will also prevent the soiling of the fillmg, which when woven 
in the cloth is hard to wash out. If the entrance of the box is 
too narrow, a common result is the fillmg being cut, or the filling 
becomes soiled at this point, after the shuttle has been run a 
short tune. The least distance that should be allowed extra for the 
entrance of a box is ^" wider than the shuttle and it does no harm 
to have it wider still than this ; for by having it so, a better range 
can be obtamed for the shuttle, and better results m every way. 
If the temple is too low on the race-plate, as the lay comes forward, 
the filling that is on the plate gets underneath and is cut. 

Sometimes the filling is not cut clean, but just hangs together 
and as soon as the strain of drawing off the cop or bobbin is felt, 
it breaks, and in- all probability the end that is hangmg outside the 
shuttle will catch in the shed at the other side of the cloth, and 
consequently the loom does not stop and there is a mispick in the 
^ody of the cloth. This is often mistaken for a harn'ess niissing, 
but if examined closely it will be found that the fillmg is cut. The 
temple bemg too close to the reed will cause the fillmg to be cut 
as readily as the temple being too low on the race-plate, especially 
is this shown m a loom where ahnost all the full reed space is used. 
As the lay is on the front center, the filling is drawn agamst the 
temple and consequently in a good many mstances it is either 
partly cut, or cut altogether, and if only partly cut, then mispicks 
are often the result. This is also another reason why it is advisa- 
ble to have the lay press back the temple a little. If the grate is 
sharp, or a groove is worn on the face by the constant working of 
the loom, occasionally the filluig will be cut, but in a number of 
looms the grate is now bemg placed back a trifle, for the purpose 
of preventing the shuttle from rubbing agamst the face of the grate, 
and in this way gradually making the edges sharp. If the filling 
fork passes too far through the grate, there is the possibility of 
having the filling cut occasionally and especially so if the bottom 



248 



230 



WEAVING 



of the fork touches the lay, when it should be freely pressed back 
by the filling. There is no need of having the fillmg fork pass 
through the grate any more than is necessary to just raise up the 






B, 

Fig. 136. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Filling to be Cut. 

fork from the catch of the elbow lever, when the loom is turned 
over by hand ; because when the loom is running, the fillmg over 
the grate coming in contact with the fork at a quicker speed, there 



244 



WEAVING 231 



will be sufficient clearance given to the fork. By all means have 
the bottom of the fork clear the lay. Sometimes the filling will be 
cut by the wrong timmg of the elbow lever, that is, the lever naoves 
too soon so that the filling must force the hook of the fork off the 
catch of the elbow lever. 

It will sometimes happen that one or two of the dents of the 
reed have become sharp through a faulty place on the shuttle, and 
when these come in contact with the filling when beating up the 
last pick, the fiUmg will be cut, especially if there has been con- 
siderable friction on it. Of course, this defect will often cut the 
warp threads, but sometimes it will not, and yet will cut the filling 
if the temple has been touching the reed. The face of the dents 
become flat and sharp, and will often cut the filling m the selvedge. 
If not worn too much, the reed can be remedied in the loom by 
usmg a little flour of emery and a flat piece of hard wood, rubbing 
the edge of the wood on the dents ; it is best to add a little oil to 
the emery, which gives it the form of a paste, so that it can then 
be used to better advantage. If the shuttles run crooked across 
the lay and strike the front of the box, cut filling is often the 
result, especially at the side where the eyelet of the shuttle enters 
first. The remedies for this have been given. If the rollers in the 
spmnmg frame have been dented a little, the result will be iuieven 
yarn. Some parts do not have strength enough to resist the drag 
as it is placed m the shed and no amount of loom fixmg will cure 
this. Threads clmging in the shed will cut filling. These are 
often called by the name of twitty places, or stitches and in a 
heavy warp, especially of worsted, this fault will generally occur. 
An early and small shed is often the cause ; also badly sized and 
beardy yarn. A little French chalk or wax on the back of the warp 
will help to overcome the latt&r. Sometunes even though the warp 
threads do not cling together, a shed that is very early will cut 
tender fillmg. 

Explanation of Fig. 136. 

A. Worn projection on picking stand. 

B. Worn shuttle caused by loose binder bolt. 

C. Worn fork. 



245 



232 WEAVING 



Loom Stopping, or Failing to Stop When it Should. 

Crooked running shuttle. 

Wrong timing of the stop motion. 

Worn rocker shaft and bearing; 

Rebounding shuttle. 

Wrong setting of the stop motion. 

Dagger rubbing the receiver plate. 

Bent connecting rod. 

Worn lock lever. 

Waste in feeler slot. 

Bent feelers. 

Late pick. 

Feelers too low in the shed. 

Rebounding dagger. 

If the dagger is worn it will rebound over tlie catch finger; 
. the dagger should be filed square. If the feelers are bent, they 
will not drop low enough in the feeler slot, and the dagger passes 
the receiver. Sometimes the feelers work out a little and catch on 
the rib of the reed, and the loom will continue to run ; or the 
paper comes loose from" the rib of the reed, or if waste is allowed 
to accumulate in the slot, or occasionally a thread, and remains in 
the reed, all cause the above result. A late pick will cause the 
feelers to bend, especially if they are low in the shed. A crooked 
running shuttle often caused by a worn picker-stick will bend the 
feelers. If the edge of the lock lever is worn, the shipper will slip 
off. Sometimes the rod that holds up the slide will become bent, 
and cause the slide to cover the receiver. The timing of the 
motions is given in the chapter on filling stop motion. A crooked 
runnmg shuttle m the majority of cases is the cause of this. 

If the shuttle does not enter the box straight, the back end 
of the shuttle strikes the fork and causes it to rebound, and in the 
rebound it catches to the end of the elbow lever, and even if the 
rebound is not perceptible, it is often sufficient for the fork to 
come in contact with the fillmg and to cause a little more to be 
drawn from the shuttle, the filling, consequently, does not tighten 
enough to raise up the fork. If the shuttle is a little late, the 
same result will follow, and if the shuttle rebounds a httle this 
will cause the filling to be slack, and the fork cannot be raised up 
by slack filling and sometimes the filling will drop down below 



24^ 



WEAVING 233 



the fork, owing to either bemg too shxck, or the fork fixed a Httle 
too high. Occasionally the filling will loop on the fork, and as 
the cloth is woven down the fork is caused to swing by the loop 
of fillmg, and therefore will often catch on the elbow lever. The 
looping of the fillmg on the fork is caused by a reboundmg shuttle, 
too little friction on the filling, one of the prongs of the fork not 
being level with the rest, or the slidmg of the filling down the face 
of the fork as it is passmg through the grate, and also if the fork 
passes too far through the grate, causing it to be raised too high. 
so that it rebounds and catches on the filling as the shuttle is 
passmg. It will be noticed by examining this particular point 
that the filling curls, owmg to it being allowed to go slack, and if 




Fig. 137. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Failure to Stop. 

the curl happens to drop down toward the sole of the lay, when 
the fork is fixed as before stated, the defect spoken of will ensue. 
If the filling is sliding down the fork, it is advisable to dent the 
prongs a little, but not so that they will cut the fillmg, just suffi- 
ciently to retain the filling. It can also be overcome by having the 
prongs of the fork straight down from the bend, with a little bend 
at the extreme end of the fork. One is not always able to fix the 
fork in this way, owing to the length of the hook m comparison 
to the way it is fixed to the slide, but so far as this rule can be 
carried out, it is best, because it not only looks better, but better 
results follow. When the prongs are pointmg out at the bottom 
it gives the filhng a chance to slide up, besides allowing it to pass 
farther tfirough the grate to raise high enough, and also the point 
will touch the sole of the lay. If the prongs of the fork are 
straight down, they pass back a little, whereas the others pass 
down. An occasional cause for the loom stopping is that the 



247 



234 WEAVING 



bearing for the rocker shaft becomes loose ; this allows the lay to 
jump when running, and therefore when the power is off and all 
seems to be right, it is well to examme these points. 
Explanation of Fig. 137. 

A. Worn projection receiver. 

B. Bent fork. 

Wrong Timing of the Stop Motion. It is best to set the 
cam to move the elbow lever as the crank is passmg close to the 
front center. It is when running two widely different counts of 
filling that the greatest difficulty is met. For instance, 13's and 
90's fillmg, if you raise the fork the least bit too high with the 
fine counts you are certain to have trouble with the coarser counts. 
Have as little friction as possible on the coarser counts, and raise 
the fork by the finer filling so that it will not quite clear the catch 
of the' lever when the loom is turned over by the hand. In the 
majority of cases this will give the desired results ; if not, then 
raise the fork a little higher by the fine filling, and add a thin 
piece of wu^e to the slide in the form of a bridge, to prevent the 
rebound of the fork when the' coarse filling is being woven, but 
have the wire loose a little so that as the fork strikes it, the wire 
will yield a little. Another way would be to scrape the coarse 
fillmg shuttle a little so that it will go into the box more easily, 
but to prevent this from breaking off the fillmg or spoiling the 
picker, arrange the check sprmg to give the resistance required. 
A source of annoyance, and which is often misleading, is the 
ticking or occasional rubbing of the dagger aga^inst the receiver 
plate. This gradually pushes off the shipper rod. The main 
cause for ii is that the box is not tight enough, or if it is, the swell 
is of poor shape. 

When usmg a flat swell that is bolted to the loose portion of 
the box front, the cause may possibly be that the back end of the 
swell is bent too far back. Take the shuttle out of the box and 
notice when the dagger pomt. strikes the receivmg plate. It may 
possibly be strikmg too high ; if it is, this can be altered by the 
fingers on the dagger rod ; loosen them, and have the point of 
the dagger in the hollow of the receiver ; drive on one finger and 
test it to see if the dagger is right; then drive on the other. When 
doing this the finger that is set sometimes springs back while 



248 



WEAVING 235 



driving tlie other finger on tlie rod, and it wonld be well, there- 
fore, to place a tube or some tliin substance between tlie fixed 
finger and the swell ; then fix tlie other finger, and it will be 
found that they are both about equal in the end. The loom will 
sometmies stop because the stand for the shipper handle, or the 
shipper handle itself, is worn, and this allows the shipper handle 
to slide off. It is easily remedied however. 

WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS. 

The calculations in this section will not mclude those neces- 
sary for the . construction of cloth ; but give all that may be 
necessary in the routine work of the Overseer, and possibly the 
Superintendent. 

All yarns have a base, foundation and standard number : and 
this standard must be well known before correct calculations can 
be made. 

The term counts or numbers has the same meaning and 
determmes the number of yards m one pound of the given thread. 
All yarns with the exception of raw silk are finer of thread as the 
counts or numbers go higher. There are 7,000 grains in 1 pound 
avoirdupois : 437.5 grains in 1 ounce. 

840 yds. constitute 1 lb. of 1 counts of cotton yarn. 



1600 




" " " 1 run woolen yarn. 


300 




" "." 1 cut woolen yarn. 


560 




" " "1 counts worsted yarn 


840 




" " *' 1 " spun silk. 


300 




" " '♦ 1 " linen yarn. 



Raw silk is generally reckoned by the number of drams that 
1,000 yards weigh, usmg as a base 1,000 yards to one dram of 
silk, 256,000 yards to 1 pound of 1 dram silk, there being 256 drams 
in 1 pound. Owing to the difference of opinions among experts as 
to Avhat constitutes a denie:^ we prefer to calculate by the dram 
system. 

On all yarns except raw silk, to find the number of yards in 
1 pound of a given counts of yarn multiply the standard by the 
given number. 



249 



236 WEAVING 



COTTON YARNS. 

There are 29,400 yards in 1 pound of 35's cotton 840 X 35 
== 29,400. For greater convenience when dealing with small 
quantities, one lea or 120 yards is weighed; the 120 is -^ of 840, 
1,000 grains or ^ of a pound is also used in the calculations. 

If very small quantities are • being weighed, a smaller division 
than i can be used, but the standard number of yards (840) and the 
number of grains hi 1 pound (7,000) must be divided by the same 
number. Rule: divide the standard number of yards, and the 
number of grains in 1 pound by any number that will give a work- 
ing basis ; then weigh that number of yards and the resultant weight 
in grains divided by the workmg basis, will give the counts of 
yarn in question. 

Examples — 

120 yd«. weipfh 20 gvs., what is the counts? 
1,000 H- 20 = 50 counts. 

120 yds. weigh 30grs., what is the counts? 
1,000 -^ 30 = 33i counts. 

60 yds. weigh 12|^ grs., what is the counts? 
500 -^ 12.5 = 40 counts. 

30 yds. weigh 3^ gi's., what is the counts? 
250 -!- 3.5 = llh 

Suppose we have only one-half yard of yarn and we wish to 
know the counts ; following out the previous method of reduction 
to find a basis, we have the following: 

7,000 grs. = 1 lb. 840 yds. are in 1 lb. of I's counts 
or 1,680 half yds. 7,000 ^ 1,680 = 4.166 grs. 

That is one-half yard of I's counts will weigh 4.166 grains. 
This is a standard. Weigh half the yard of unknown count and 
divide the resulting weight by the standard. The quotient will 
be the counts of yarn. 

i yd. weighs i of a gr. 4.166 -h .25 = 16.6 counts. 
i yd. weighs j\ of a gr. 4.168 -^ .1 ^ 41.6 counts. 

Twisted and ply yarns are denoted as follows : -^-^^s, -^^s, g2_'s, 
j^q's, and in all yarns with the exception of silk the top figures 
denote the number of single threads of the given number of counts ; 
the lower figures denote the counts of the single yarn. Cabled 



250 



WEAVING 237 



yarns are two or more ply yarns twisted together, and are described 

4 



as 2 's, or 8 ends of single 60's. 
60 ' ^ 

Although ply threads are slightly heavier than the same 
number of yards of the single threads before they are twisted 
(caused by the increased contraction), it is customary when two 
or more threads of equal counts are twisted, to divide the counts 
of the single yarn by the number of threads twisted together, and 
the result is equivalent to a given single yarn : ^2_ — - 39 ^ 2 = 
15's counts. y3^ = 75 -f- 3 = 25's counts. 4 g2_'s = 60 -^ (4 X 2) 
= 7.5 counts. 

When two or more threads of unequal counts are twisted 
together, the following is the rule by which to calculate the counts 
of the combined threads. . 

Rule. Divide the highest by itself, and by the other counts ; 
add the sum of the quotient of each division and divide the highest 
counts by the sum, the result is the counts of the combined 
threads. 

What are the counts of the following : 

20's and 30's 30 ^ 2| = 12 12's counts. 
40'sand35'8 40 -^- 2.14 = 18.7 18.7's counts. Ans. 

What are the counts of the combined threads ? 30's, 25's and 
20's= 80 -f- 3.7 = 8.1 counts. 

WOOLEN YARNS. 

The " run " system is the most common method of calculating 
the counts of woolen yarns. There being 1,600 yards to 1 pound 
of run yarn, how many yards are there in 1 pound of 4-1-run 
yarn? 

1,600 X 4.25 = 6,800 yds. 

There are 56 pounds of woolen yarn, what is the run and 
length of the same ? 

One yard of 1-run woolen weighs 4.375 grains. We weigh 50 
yards of this quantity and it weighs 43| grains. 

218.75 -^ 43.75 = 5 run yarn. 
1,600 X 5 X 56 = 448,000 yds. of yarn. 

When calculating for the cut system proceed in the same 
manner, but substitute for the cut standard 300 yards. 



851 



238 WEAVING 



WORSTED YARNS. 

How many yards are there in 1 pound of 30's worsted? 

560 X 30 = 16,800 yds. 

We have 16,800 yards of 40's worsted, what is the weight ? 
First find the number of yards in 1 pound of 40's, then 
proceed. 

560 X 40 = 22,400. 
16,800 X 16 = 268,800. 268,800 -^ 22,400 = 12 oz. of yarn. 

We know that one yard of I's counts of worsted weighs 12.5 
grains; if 3 yards weigh li grains what is the- counts? Divide 
the base for worsted by the yards weighed to get the working 
number of grains and yards. 

560-^-3 = 186.7. 7,000 -M86.7= 37.5 grs. 
37.5 -M.25 = 30 counts of yarn. 

Three yards is y g^g.y of 560 yards. 37.5 grains is j^q.j of 
7,000 grains. 

SILK— RAW. 

There is a distinctive difference between spun and -raw or 
reeled silk. 

Spun silk is made from waste silk and the poorer qualities of 
cocoons, and the fibre passes through similar processes to cotton 
before it is made into yarn. Raw silk means silk that is 
reeled from the cocoon, the strands of silk are then doubled and 
twisted to make tram or organzine, the former for filling, the latter 
for warp. 

Tusser or Tusseh silk, is a raw silk from the wild silk worm 
of India. 

There are two distinct standards for determining the counts 
or sizes of* raw silk yarns : Denier and Dram. A hank of 520 
yards is used as a base, and the number of deniers such a hank 
weighs, denotes the counts or size of the yarn. 533i deniers 
equals 1 ounce avoirdupois. 

When using the dram as the standard of calculation, the 
counts required of the silk reeled is the number of drams 1,000 
yards weighs. 



252 



WEAVING 239 



If 1,000 yards weigh 6| it will be 6i dram silk. The num- 
ber of yards in 1 pound- of 6i dram silk is found as follows : 

1,000 X 16 X 16 = 256,000 yards in 1 pound of dram silk. 
As stated the higher the numbers the less number of yards in 1 
pound of run silk ; so that dividmg the base by the weight of 
1,000 yards in drams will give the number of yards in 1 pound of 
the yarn. 

256,000 -^-6i: = 40,960 yds. in 6ir dram silk. 

A less number of yards can be weighed, and the result multi- 
plied by the divisor of the standard. For example : 

500 yards is one-half of the standard and weighs 2^ drams. 
21 X 2 = 5 drams silk. 

256,000-^5 =51,200 yds. 1 lb. 

100 yds. weigh .75 drams. .75 X 10 = 7.50 or 7^ drams. 

256,000 ^li = 34,133.3 yds. 1 lb. 

Spun silks are calculated by the same standard as cotton. 840 
yards = 1 pound of I's counts. 

The higher the numbers the greater number of yards to a 
pound. 

Single 40's and two-fold 40's require the same number of hanks 
to the pound, and the two-fold is indicated in the opposite manner 
to other yarns, 'y = 40's. 

Calculating for spun silks, the indicated counts would be 
considered ; not the ply. 

LINEN. COMBINED YARNS. 

Linen yarns are reckoned the same as the cut system, woolen 
yarns. In fancy mills it is common to have several kinds of yarn 
woven in the same cloth, viz. : Cotton and Wool, Worsted and 
Wool, Worsted and Cotton, Cotton and Silk, Worsted and Silk. 
To find the equivalent counts, multiply the standard of the given 
thread by the counts, and divide by the standard of the required 
thread. What counts of woolen yarn, run system, equals a 30's 
cotton thread? 

840 X 30 = 25,200. 

25,200 -i- 1,600 = 151 run woolen yarn. 



253 



240 WEAVING 



What counts of woolen yarn, cut system, is equivalent to 

a gV^ worsted yarn? 

20 X 560 = 11,200. 

11,200 -^ 300 = 37J cut woolen yarn. 

Any other combmation of yarns can be found in the same 
manner as the above. 

To find the counts of yarn that is on a beam, the weight and 
length being known. 

Multiply the number of ends in the warp by the length, to 
get the total number of yards of yarn ; divide by the weight multi- 
plied by the standard of the yarn. 

If 4,095,000 yards weigh 66 pounds, what is the counts? 



4,095,000 ^^seouuts. 
65 X 840 

A stock warp is found, and the comparative weight of the 
beam is known, also the counts, what is the length of warp? 

The beam and warp weigh 200 pounds., beam about 95 
pounds and there are 2,780 ends on the warp, the counts is -^-^'s 
worsted. 

Multiply the yards in 1 pound of the given counts by the 
number of pounds of warp ; and divide by the ends in the warp. 
The result will be the number of yards length of warp. 

200 — 95 = 105 lbs. of yarn. 
11,200X105 ^^^3^^;^^ 

2,780 ^ 

Suppose the number of ends in a warp is not known, but 
other data is known; to save the time of counting the threads the. 
following rule can be applied. 

Multiply the counts by the standard and the weight; then 
divide by the length. 

A warp of 45 counts, 60 pounds in weight, 1,350 yards in 
length, what is the number of ends in the warp ? 

45 X 840 X 60 _„ , 
1;350 = 1.680 ends. 

STOCK TAKING. 

When takmg stock it is the common practice to guess at the 
length of yarn there is on the beams, but to be more definite the 



264 



WEAVING 241 



following rule can be followed. Subtract the number of pieces 
woven from the original number, multiply by the length, allowing 
for the approximate length of cloth on the roll, and the result will 
be the length of warp on the beams. 

A warp originally had on it 60 pieces, 5 yards in length ; 7 
pieces have been woven, what is the length of the warp on the 
beams? 

60 — 7=53. 53X54=2,862. 

About 10 yards of cloth on the roll. 2,862 — 10 = 2,852 
yards. 

The above is only the approximate length, but it is nearer 
than a guess, and a guess is likely to be a good many yards out. 

What weight of warp would be required to make a warp of 
90 pieces, 56 yards in a piece 2,440 ends in width, 40 cotton? 

Multiply the pieces by the length of each piece and by the 
number of ends, divide by the number of yards in 1 pound of the 
given counts. 

55 X 90 X 2.440 _ o-o 'tm ii. * 

_ =359.762 lbs. of yarn. 

40 X 840 -^ • 

AUowmg 3 per cent waste in transferring the yarn, 
359.762 X 1.03 =370.55 lbs. required. 

Whatever kind of yarn is being used, or the quantity required, 
the foregoing rule can be applied, using the approximate per cent 
of loss in transferring the yarn. 

The sley means, the number of ends per inch in the reed, but 
often cloths are made with stripes in them that have more ends in 
some dents than in other portions of the cloth, and when calcu- 
lating for the number of ends in the full width the average only is 
taken. 

What are the number of ends and weights of yarn required 
in a warp as follows : -L^- that is 12 reed 4 in 1 dent 72" in width, 
'424 yards in length, 3| woolen yarn ? 

Multiply the number of ends per inch by the number of 
inches in width, also by the number of yards there are in the 
length, to get the total number of yards of yarn there are in the 
warp. Divide the total number of yards of yarn by the number 



255 



242 WEAVING 



of yards in 1 pound of the given counts of yam. The result will 
be the weight of warp. 

48 X 12— 3,456 ends in warp. 
3,456 X 424 = 1,465,344 yds. in warp. 

1,465,344 -^ 6,000 = 244.224 lbs. of yarn in the warp. 

A piece of cloth is required to be made as follows : A plain 
and satin striped cloth, 32" in width aside from selvedges; plain 
stripe to be made \ " in width, 2 ends in 1 dent ; satm stripe to be 
i". in width, 4 ends m 1 dent, 40 reed. Selvedge to have 10 
double ends in each side, and both edges of the cloth to be the 
same. 

We have 125 pounds of 65's cotton yarn. What length of 

warp can be made from above particulars ? Also give particulars 

for drawing the warp in the harness. 

840 X 65 = 54,600 yds. in 1 lb. 
54,600 X 125 = 6,825,000 yds. total, 
f" of a 40 reed wouM be 30 dents 30 X 2 = 60 ends of plain per inch. 
\" of a 40 reed would be 10 dents 10 X 4 = 40 ends of vsatin. 
100 X 32 = 3200. 3200 + 40 = 3240 ends in the width. 

6,825,000 -f- 3,240 = 2,106.48 yds. of warp. 

Draw the plain stripe on the 4 harness and the satin stripe on 
the 6 harness. 

Draw the selvedge, then commence the |" of plain. After- 
wards start with the furll pattern 1" satin, |" plam, and the finish 
will be the same as the commencement. 

60 X 32.--- 1,920, 1,920 + 10 = 1,930. K930 -^ 4 — 482.5 heddles. 
40 X 32 = 1,280, 1,280 -^ 6 = 213.8 heddles. 

Place 483 heddles on each shaft for the plain and the 214 on 
each shaft for the satin. 

TO FIND THE PRODUCTION OF A LOOM. 

Multiply picks per minute by minutes in 1 hour, and by 
hours per day or week. Divide by picks per inch, then by inches 
per cut ; the result will be the mathematical production ; but the 
loom stops for change of filling, etc., so that the actual production 
will be less than the above ; the loss can only be surmised until 
a test has been made, but let your aim be to get the highest 
production possible consistent with quality. 



856 



WEAVING 243 



Speed for loom 168 picks per min. 
60 min. per hr. 
10,080 

58 hr. per week. 



Picks per in. 64)584,640 



In. in 45 yds. 1,620) 9,135 



6.638 cuts of 45 yds. in 58 hrs. 
.8)0% of production, or allowing 15% for stoppage. 



4.788 = Actual production per week. 
TO FIND THE PER CENT OF PRODUCTION. 

First find the mathematical production, tlien divide the actual 
production of the machme by the mathematical, and the answer 
will be. the per cent of production. 

Mathematical 5.5)4.35 actual production. 

^79 = 79%. 

To find the percentage of production when yards are con- 
sidered ; substitute yards for cuts and proceed as above. 

EXAMPLES. 

If 6 looms produce 3,624 yards in 12 days, how many will 

40 looms produce m 6 days ? ' 

There are two ways of obtaining the result required : 

First : Find the average yards that one loom produces in the 

first case, then multiply the average by the second case. 

Yds. Days. Looms. 

Example: 3,624 divided by 12 divided by 6 = 50.33 yds. in 1 day. 

Yds. Days. Looms. 

50.33 X 6 X 40 = 12079.20 yds. 

Second Method : Proportion. Proportion is an equality of 
ratios. Ratios is the relation of one quantity to another of the 
same kind. 

Place the number that is the same as the required answer in 
the third term, and if the question indicates that the answer ought 
to be larger than the third term, place the remaining terms with 
the larger one in the second place ; then divide the product of the 
second and third terms by the first to obtain the fourth or answer. 

Cancellation assists in the shortening of the sum. 

In the example we require yards, and a greater number than 



257 



244 WEAVING 



the third term, and as we have five sets of figures, to find the 
relation of one to the otlier, place them in this order. 

Looms to Looms 

6 : 40 
Days to Days 40 X 6 X 3,624 _ 



12 : 6 12 X 6 

Yds. to Yds. 
3,624 : X 



12,080 yds. 



If 28 looms produce 1;400 yards of fancy cloth in 6 days of 
10| hours per day, how many yards will 36 looms produce in 
3 weeks, 58 hours per week? 

First, reduce the days or weeks to hours. 



Looms to Looms 

28 : 36 
Hours to Hours 


X 6 = 611 hours. 

9 200 

W X 174 X l,#00. 


58 X 3 = 174 liours. 
_ 9 X 174 X 200 _ 5, 


61i : 174 
Yds. to Yds. 

1,400 : X 


61J X 'Pf> 
7 


61.5 



It is often necessary to produce a larger number of yards of 
cloth in a given time, so that small warps have to be placed in 
■ several looms to comply with the order. 

Example : 

Thirty pieces of worsted cloth, 60 yards m a piece, must be 
woven in 15 days. How many looms, and number of pieces to a 
loom, are required to weave the cloth in the given time ? 

One loom weaves 116 yards per week of 58 hours. 

First find the number of yards per hour, then the length of 
time it takes one loom to weave one piece ; divide the result into 
the time allowed, and the ansVer will be the number of pieces one 
loom can weave in the given time. Divide the total number of 
pieces by the production of one, and the result will be the number 
of looms required. 

116 -^- 58 = 2 yds. 60 -r- 2 = 30 hours to weave 1 piece. 

58 -^- 6 = 9.7 average hours per day. 

1,5 X 9.7 := 145.5 total hours. 
145 -T- 30 = 4 85 pieces produced by each loom in the given time. 

It would be better under the circumstances to use 8 looms, 
placing 4 pieces in 7 looms and 2 pieces in one loom. This will 
allow time for accidents. 



258 



WEAVING 245 



When a break-down occurs, note is taken of the length of 
time the loom or portion of it is stopped, and instead of sending 
in a report, that so many looms were stopped for so many hours, 
it is customary to divide the total number of looms m the room 
by the fraction of time that the looms were stopped, and the result 
will represent that so many looms ran the full time. 

Example : 

There are 580 looms in a room, and through a break-down 
the looms are stopped 4 hours, how many ran full time ? 

The workmg hours are 58 per week. 

4 )58 14.5 )580 

14.5 40 looms stopped. 

580 
40 
540 looms run full time. 

When looms are stopped for lack of weavers, the above rule 
can be applied, but a record ought to be kept of the reason why 
they are stopped. 

To figure the pay per hour for odd help, whatever work they 
are performmg : Divide the amount per week by hours of work : 
for several hours: multiply the rate per hour by, the number of 
hours of labor. 

A spare hand weaver is paid at the rate of 18.00 per week, 
and works 10 i hours, what will be the price paid ? Fifty-eight 
hours constitutes a week's labor. 

58)$8.00 



18.79 cents per hour. 
10.5 hours of labor. 



144.795 = $1.44 per day. • 

Two days would be 12.89, three days |4.34, and so on ; 
multiply the fraction of a cent each time. 

Example : 

An operative is paid $1.75 per day, and receives an increase 
of 5 per cent, what will be the wages paid ? 

There are two methods by which the amount can be com- 
puted. First, by finding what is 5 per cent of the wages already 
paid, and adding that amount ; the sum will be the wages that has 
to be paid. 



259 



246 WEAVING 



Second: Multiplying the amount paid by one plus the per 
cent. 



175 






1.75 




.05 

8.75 






8 
1.83 


$1.83 per day, 


175 










1.05 










875 










175 










183.75 


$1.83 


per 


day. 





Suppose after a few months the same operative was reduced 
5 per cent, will the former wages be paid ? No. 



Or 



1.83 




1.83 




.05 




9 




9.15 




1.74 


$1.74 per day. 




1.05)1.83(1.74 
105 






780 








735 
450 








420 
30 


$1. 


74 per day. 



• To find the per cent of reduction and increase, subtract the 
difference, divide this by the first value, and the result will be the 
per cent of reduction. 

Example : 

Ninety-five cents is paid for weaving a piece of cloth, the price, 
is then reduced to 85 cents, what is the per cent of reduction ? 



95 




85 




95)10.0(.105 


10^% reduction. 


95 




500 




475 




26 




Reduced from 25 cents to 23 cents. 


25 




23 




25) 2.00(.08 


8% reduction. 


200 





260 



WEAVING 241 



Increased from $1.56 to $1.62. 



1.62 
1.56 



1.62) .0600(.037 About 3|%. 
486 
1140 
1134 



TO FIND THE COST OP PRODUCTION. 

1. A spare hand weaver receives $8.50 per week, and pro- 
duces 825 yards from 5 looms, what is the cost per yard? 

$8.50 -f- 825 = 1.03 cts. per yd. 

2. A weaver is paid $8.50 for producing 15 pieces of cloth 
each 55 yards in length, what is the cost per cut ? 

$8.50 -f- 15 = 561- cts. per cut. 

3. A weaver produces 240 yards of cloth and has to receive 
5i cents per yard, what is the amount paid ? 

240 X .055 = $13.20. 

Or for each piece of 40 yards, $2.20. 40 X .055 = $2.20. 

4. A loom produces in one week, three pieces of 45 yards m 
each piece, total 155 yards. 85 cents is paid for each piece, total 
cost $2.55, what is the cost per yard? 

255 -i- 155 ^ 1.65 cts. per yd. 
Cost Per Pound. 

A weaver has four looms, each loom has a different pattern in 
it, with prices paid in proportion, as follows : 

1. '■Leno striped cloth, 50 yards in. length of cut, 73 cents 
per cut; weight, 5.09 yards per pound; average 4 cents per week. 

2. Bedford Cord. 50 yards in length of cut, 70 cents per 
cut; weight, 3.19 yards to the pound; average 3.5 pieces per 
week. 

3. B. C. Leuo. Length of cut 70 yards, $1.38 per cut; 
weight, 4.20 yards per pound: average 3 pieces per week. 

4. Fancy Mercerized Stripe. Length of cut 70 yards, $1.30 
per cut : weight, 4.07 yards to the pound ; average 3 pieces per 
week. 



261 



248 WEAVING 



Yds. in 1 Cut 


Yds. in 1 Lb. 


50 -. 


3.19 


Cents 




70 -. 


15.67 


Yds. in 1 Cut 


Yds. in 1 Lb. 


70 -. 


4.20 


Cents 




138 -. 


16.67 


Yds. in 1 Cut 


Yds. in 1 Lb. 


70 


1- 4.07 


Cents 




130 -. 


r 17.19 



What is the cost per pound m each case ? 

Yds. in Cut Yds. in 1 Lb. 

1. 50 -^ 5.09 = 9.82 lbs. in 1 cut of 50 yds. 

Cents 
73 -^ 9.82 = 7.44 

or expressed in cost of cts. per lb. the answer would be $.0744 per lb. 

= 15.67 lbs. in 1 cut of 50 yds. 

— 4.46 or $.0446 per lb. 
3. 70 -^ 4.20 = 16.67 lbs. in 1 cut of 70 yds. 

= 8.27 or $.0827 per lb. 

— 17.19 lbs. in 1 cut of 70 yds. 

= 7.56 or $.0756 per lb. 

To find the percentage of warp and fillmg m a piece of cloth, 
proceed as follows, using cloth No. 1 as an example : 102 threads 
per inch ; 64 picks per mch ; 27 inches in width. 30's warp ; 40's 
filling ; 50 yards in length. 

To find the amount of warp yarn. 

Threads per In. In. Wide Length in Yds. 

102 X 27 X 50 = 137,700 yds. of warp. 

To find the amount of filling. 

Picks per In. In. Wide Length in Yds. 

64 X 27 X 50 = 86,400 yds. of filling. 

Or 64 X 27 X (36 -^ 36) X 50 = 86,400 yds. of filling. 

Add together the total weights of warp and filling, and divide 
the separate amounts by the sum of the addition ; the result will 
be the percentage of each. 

137,700 137,700 -f- 224,100 = .6144 = 61.44% of warp. 

86,400 
224,100 lbs. of yarn. 86,400 -^ 224,100 = .3855 = 38.55% of filling. 

To find the weight of warp and weight of fillmg in cloth 
No. 1. 

Multiply the weight of a cut of cloth by per cent of warp to 

find the weight of warp ; then subtract the weight of warp from the 

weight of the cut, and the result will be the weight of the fillmg. 

9.82 X .6144 = 6.033408 lbs. of warp or e^fo lbs. of warp. 
9.822 — 6.033408 = 3.788592 lbs. of filling or 3f lbs. of filling. 



263 



WEAVING 249 



The amount of filling required per clay is in proportion to the 
number of yards woven m one day, and can readily be estimated. 

If a third of a cut is woven in. one day, 
3| -^ 3 = 1.25 lbs. of filling. 

To find the cost of yarn, both warp and filling, in cloth 
No. 1. 30's warp cost 21 cents per pound, 40's filling cost 23 
cents per pound. 

Weight of warp yarn, 

6.033 X 21 cts. = 126.693 or $1.26f. 

3.786 X 23 cts. = -^1:^ or ^ '^^ , , , , 
^13.771 $2,131 total cost. 

To find the amount of cloth a given quantity of filling will 
make, other data known. 

Cloth No. 1. If 3| lbs. of filling will make 50 yards of cloth, 
how many yards will 20 pounds make ? 

Lbs. libs. Yds. Yds. Required 

3.75 : 20 : : 50 : x 

-^ ^ ^^ = 266.6 yds. of cloth. 
3.75 

It is a well-known fact that 70 yards of warp yarn will not 
make 70 yards of cloth, owmg to the interlacing of the warp yarn 
with the filling ; so that when figuring out the length of cloth 
required, the shrmkage of the warp must be taken mto considera- 
tion. The amount of shrinkage or take-up can only be determined 
by actual practice, but approximate shrinkage can be determined 
by measuring a length of woven yarn. 

Example : Cloth No. 1 on which two warps were used. 

Warp No. 1. 2,456 ends g'o's 6% shrinkage. 
Warp No. 1, 156 ends -^^ 15% shrinkage. 

Twenty pieces of 70 yards each were woven, what was the 
actual length of both warps ? 

Yds. 
70 X 1.06 = 74.20 yds. in each cut. 
74 X 20 = 1,480 yds. on the warp. 
70 X 1.15 = 80.50 yds. in each cut. 
80.50 X 20 = 1,610 yds. on the warp. 

To find percentage of size added to the warp yarn. 
The weight of the yarn before it is sized can be ascertained 
by the usual method : Multiply the ijumber of ends by the length, 



263 



250 



WEAVING 



and divide by the number of yards in 1 pound of the given counts ; 
add to the answer the weiglit of the beam. Subtract the final 
result- from the weight of a' warp .dpffed from the slasher; the 
difference will be the amount of size that has been added. To 
find the per cent proceed as follows : 

A warp is juade of 3,500 ends, 1,200 yards 60"s cotton. 

The warp weighs 135 pounds after it has been sized, the 
empty beam weighmg 48 pounds. What percentage of size has 
been added to the yarn ? 



Or 



Ends in Warp Yds. 




3,500 


X 1,200 


= 4,200,000 yds. total. 


Yds. 


Counts 




840 


X 60 


= 50,400 yds. in 1 lb. 


4,200,000 


~ 50,400 


= 83.33 lbs. of unsized yarn. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 




135 


— 48 


— 87 lbs. of sized warp yarn. 


87.00 






83.33 






3.67 difference 


3.67 -^ 83.33 = .044 or 4^%%. 


87.00 






83.33 






3.67 






100 






83.33)367.00 







4.4 4y%% size added to the warp. 

Speed and gear calculations are found in another section. 

There are several reports and order sheets in connection with 
the weave room ; The first one is an order sheet as follows : and is 
passed to the Overseer from the Supermtendent. 



264 



WEAVII^G 



251 



THE ISA MANUFACTURING CO. 



No. 1. 

Mr. Smith 
Style No. 1,892 
Total pieces 2,000 
Reed 24 Pick 80 
Width in Reed 30 
No. Ends 1,773 
" ^ 342 
'* . 114 



Sample No. 1,910 
PF^^/^/j/ delivery 150 
^z'^r kS/^ 96 
Width of Cloth 28 
Coiaits Warp 36 

" 2-40 
'• 2-20 



Ordered 5 v^<?. 10 , i"po2 
Overseer Weave Room- 
Delivery begins June 4 
Aver Pick 80 

yi/^. zVz C«/ 70 



Counts Filling 20 Aver No. 21 

Yds. per lb. 4.07 5/<?^^ 175 

Prod, per day in yards 2^ Lbs. 6.14 Percent 75 

Wecive Mer Stripe 

Price per cut $1.30 

If.necessary change 2,630 to get .this out on time. 

J. HARRIS, Supt. 



265 



252 



WEAVING 



No. 2. 

Style 

Slasher No. 
No. Yarn 
Section Beams 



Spools 
Total Ends 
Length of cut 
Gear 

Color of Mark 
No. of Filling 
Price Drawing 
No. of Cuts 
No. of Warps 



THE ISA MAlSrUFACTURING CO. 



1892 
2 
36 
4 



70 • 
26 
Red 
20 

$1.15 
2,000 



Ordered 5-10-1902 



443 
443 
443 
444 

1773 



Finished June 26, 1902. 



206 



WEAVING 



253 



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254 



WEAVING 



No. 4. 



WEAVE ROOM. 



Sept. 22, 1902. 



Section No. 1. 
Take off looms on style 2,630. 
Put on 6 looms on style 1,960. 
Weave; mercerized stripe. 
Width in reed 30J" 

Width in cloth 28 

Picks 81 

Gear 40 

Filling 40 

No. harness 16 

No. beams 3 

Size of pulley 14^" 

Remarks : 

Bring a sample yard and a small piece into the office. 

J. Smith, Overseer, 

THE ISA MANUFACTURING CO. 

KEPORT OP 
WEAVING DEPARTMENT. 



No. 5. 



For the week ending June 4, 1902. 











Time Produc- 


Price 


Ami 


ount 










tion 








1. 


Overseer 




1 


day 6 


$4.00 


$24.00 


$24.00 


2. 


Second Kands 




2 


hour 58 


27.68 


16.00 


32.00 


3. 


Fancy Fixers 




18 


hour 58 


.25 


14.50 


116.00 


4. 


Plain Fixers 




4- 


hour 58 


23.45 


13.60 


54.40 


5. 


Change Fixers 




2 


hour 58 


18.96 


11.00 


22.00 


6. 


Smash Piecers 




2 


hour 58 


17.67 


10.25 


20.50 


7. 


Filling Tenders 




2 


day 6 


1.25 


7.25 


14.50 


8. 


Filling Tender 




1 


hour 58 


11.379 


6.60 


6.60 


9. 


Ijaborer 




1 


day 6 


1.25 


- 7.25 


7.25 


10. 


Scrubber 




2 


hour 58 


10.34 


6.00 


12.00 


11. 


Oiler 




1 


hour 58 


12.93 


7.50 


7.50 


12. 


Cloth Booker 




1 


hour 58 


14.65 


8.50 


8.50 


13. 


Weavers' Spare Han 


,ds 


6 


hour 58 


17.068 


9.90 


59.40 


14. 


Total 












$384.65 


15. 


Weavers' Allowance 




hour 29 


17.068 


4.95 


4.95 


16. 


Pounds Woven 






64,141 


Cost 


2,372.30 


17. 


Total Cost 












$2,761.80 


18. 


Cost per lb. 








.0430 






19. 


Cost of Weaving per lb. 






.0369 










Pounds 


Soft Waste 


63 










Pounds Hard Waste 












Pounds 


Sweepings 


80 







268 



WEAVING 255 



No. 2 is given to tlie overseer of the dressing room, which 
states the particulars necessary for him, namely : Number of warps ; 
cuts on each warp ; slasher length of each cut, or gear, owmg to 
the length of yarn being larger than the cloth length. 

No. 3 shows the form of a weave room report, which is ex- 
posed m some convenient place, generally near the cloth board. 

The small figures represent small paper checks that the 
we-avers are supplied with to sew on the cloth, and which indicate 
one or more pieces ; the checks are numbered, the* number acting 
somewhat as a remedy against mistakes. 

Charges mean money deducted for second quahty cloth, and 
loss through non-attendance at work. 

A red mark is generally placed alongside the particular piece 
of cloth that is considered as seconds. Also the weavers who are 
not up to the average in production have a mark attached to their 
names. 

No. 4 shows an order that is handed to the second hand by 
the overseer and explains itself. 

No. 5 summarizes the cost of odd help, and under the head 
of miscellaneous cost is balanced with the cost per pound for 
weaving. 

Item 14 on this sheet gives the total cost of miscellaneous 
help. 

Item 15 is the sum allowed to a weaver who had a poor weav- 
ing warp m the loom, or it is sometimes charged as pattern 
weaving. 

Item 16, pounds of cloth woven and the cost. 

Item 17, the total cost of producing the cloth in the weave 
room. 

Item 18, the cost per pound, obtained by dividmg item 17 by 
pounds woven. 

Item 19 is obtained by dividing cost of weaving by pounds 
woven ; both items under item 16. 

TO FIND THE COST OF PRODUCTION IN THE WEAVE ROOM. 

Competition is so keen that it is necessary to know the cost of 
production of each yard of cloth, and the only way to find that 



269 



256 WEAVING 



cost is to summarize the production and the cost, then balance one 
against the other. 
No. 6. 

SUMMAKIZED LIST. 

1. Number of looms running 371 

2. Number of pieces woven 2,218 

3. Number of yds. woven 114,396 

4. Number of lbs. v^oven 15,094 

5. Number of yds. per loom 308 

6. Number of lbs. per loom 40J 

7. Average number of vreavers on each style 46.38 

8. Average number of lbs. to a weaver 326 

9. Cost of weaving $439.16 

10. Miscellaneous cost 57.97 

11. Cost of weaving per lb. .0291 

12. Miscellaneous cost per lb. .0038 

13. Total cost of production .0329 

14. Total cost of production $497.13 

Items 1, 2, 3, 4, 8 and 9 explain themselves, and are neces- 
sary to find the answer to the remammg items. To find the yards 
per loom, divide the yards woven by number of looms running ; to 
find the number of pounds per loom, divide item 4 by item 1 ; 
to find the cost of weaving per pound, divide the cost of weaving 
by the number of pounds ; to find the miscellaneous cost per pound, 
divide the miscellaneous cost by number of pounds ; to find total 
cost add items 9 and 10. The miscellaneous item means the cost 
of all odd help, such as fixers, filling carriers, scrubbers, oiler, 
cloth booker, laborer. 

To fuid the average number of weavers on each style, divide 
the number of looms running on that style, by the number of 
looms to a weaver. 

To find the number of pounds to a weaver, divide the number 
of pounds of that style by average weaver. 

No. 6 is computed from Nos. 3 and 5, but the items from 
No. 3 are first classified m a book kept for the purpose, which will 
show so many looms weaving style 2,630. There is also a separate 
account kept of persons employed and wages paid. 

Mills have different systems, but the foregoing show one 
method of keepmg the weave room accounts. 

Instruction sheet No. 7 and report sheets Nos. 8 and 9, are 
generally used m a woolen and worsted mill with slight changes 
in methods. 



STO 



WEAVING 



257 



Report sheet No. 8 is the one used m the weave room, and 
mdicates to the weaver how much cloth has been used. 

In worsted mills and generally in woolen mills, the piece is 
marked down instead of the number of yards per half day as 
shown on this sheet. These sheets are generally made to cover 
one month's work. 

No. 9 is the report of one week's production in the weave 
room. 

BANHUC MANUFACTURING CO. 

INSTKUCTIONS FOR MANUFACTURING STYLE. 27" TRICOT PATTERN, 1,673. 



No. 7. 

Threads in wari^ 2,4.30 

Ends per in. finished 30 

Size of warp 5f 

Reed ^-^% 

Inches wide in reed 80 

Picks of filling 26 

Size of filling 4|- 

Weight from loom per yd. 8.5 

Remarks: 

$1.85 for 80 yds. 



Length from loom per piece 40 
Finished length of piece 39-38 

Finished width of piece 27" 

Finished weight per yd. 2.7 



14 pieces per week. 



BANHUG MANUFACTURING CO. 



WEAVING. 



No. 8. 



Loom No. 1-2 



Pay 

No. 

58 



No. 9. 



Width 
35 
27 
32 
27 
36 



Date 
Time 
Style 27/300 



Mod. Tues. 
lOi lOi 



Yds. 
Price 



38 
39 



40 

38 



Wed. 
10* 



40 
40 



Thurs. 
lOi 



39 

38 



Fri. 
10^ 



38 
38 



1.85 1.85 1.85 1.70 1.70 



BANHUC MANUFACTURING CO. 



WEAVING. 



Hours worked, 58. 



Sat. 
5* 



39 

.85 



Style 
2,402 
300 
184 
550 
179 



Looms 

7 

44 

2 

47 

1 

101 



Cuts 

19 

206 

4 
222 

5 
456 



Pieces 

38 

618 



10 

1,340 



Waste lbs. 
Per cent waste. 
Pounds 

7711- 



5,101 
84 

5,518i 

161 

11,635^ 



Yards 

2,1302 

24,6993 

3152 

26,5592 

3612 

54,066f 



Amount 



Aver. Oz. 
5.8 
3.3 
4.3 
3.3 
7.0 



271 



258 WEAVING 



HUMIDITY IN THE WEAVE ROOM. 

Humidifying tlie atmosphere is of two-fold value ; each value 
will be taken separately. First, it is a well-known fact that filling 
requires to be conditioned, that is, passed through a moistening 
process before it will weave acceptably ; as this is true of filling 
more particularly is it true of warp yarn after it has been sized. 

While the sizing compound is expected to lay the fibres to a 
greater or less extent, the necessity of drying the yarn before it 
passes on to the beam, takes out the natural moisture from the 
fibre, causing the yarn to be more or less brittle, destroying some- 
what the elasticity of the yarn. The retention or loss of elasticity 
means, the retention or loss of brightness or lustre to the yarn ; 
consequently the product will not have the bright appearance and 
finish that is absolutely necessary in a good piece of cloth, if the 
elasticity is taken out. To condition and bring the warp yarn as 
near as possible to natural conditions, so that the production may' 
be of the best both as to quality and quantity, what has to be 
done ? The room must be kept in such a condition, especially on 
dry days, so that there is sufficient moisture in the air to somewhat 
penetrate the size on the yarn, and in this way condition the 
fibres, actually strengthening them for the work they have to do. 

The extent to which the air in a room is moistened is termed 
relative humidity, which means the amount of moisture in the air 
as compared with the amount the air would contain if it was 
thoroughly saturated; and when the temperature of the room is 
lowered with the same amount of moisture in it, the moisture in 
the air would be condensed and settle on the machines. Heating 
the room with the same amount of moisture in the air would have 
the opposite effect, making what is termed a dry atmosphere. 

It is to overcome this dry atmosphere and regulate the 
humidity of the room, that the " Air Moistenmg System " has been 
brought to such a state of perfection, and by the use of such a 
system as shown m Fig. 138, the relative humidity can be so 
arranged and controlled, that the best results can be obtained. 

Second, from the standpoint of a room that is dry and charged 
with electricity. It is a well-known fact to mill men in general, 
that the humidity of a weave room materially affects the produc- 
tion of the loom ; the friction from the belts generates electricity 



g7» 



WEAVING 



259 




Fig. 138. Humidifier of the American Moistening Co= 



B7§ 



260 WEAVING 



to such an extent that the atmosphere becomes dry, and this dry- 
ness acts m such a manner on the yarn that the fibres open out and 
the yarn becomes beardy or hairy ; the yarn loses in strength and 
in addition will not weave as well as it should ; the threads not 
only cling together in the shed, preventmg a clear open space for 
the shuttle to pass through, but as they pass between the leese 
rods the loose fibres work out from the yarn and form in bunches 
on the yarn ; often two or more threads will be -fixed together by 
these bunches and when they weave up to the harness one or more 
of them will break out. In addition, if the bunch happens to 
work through the heddle to the reed, the oscillations of the reed 
cause more loose fibres to gather with the already large bunch, the 
only result possible bemg, the thread breaks out, the bunch pre- 
vents tlie thread from workmg out to the back of the harness, so 
clings in the shed, makes a pick out, and will sometimes throw the 
shuttle. This means loss of production, also poorer quality of 
production, and the faults do not end here ; it is utterly impossible 
for the workers to use the same energy when the air is dry as 
when a fair amount of moisture is in the air. Too much moisture 
-is almost as bad as too little, for everything becomes damp and 
sticky, the weavers are always complaining that they have colds 
and other kindred ailments. Such elements certainly are not 
conducive to good results. 

Various mills have different systems for. humiclifymg the 
atmosphere : some still cling to the old method of allowing steam 
to escape through traps fitted in the floor, but happily they are 
becommg more rare, for the steam pipes tended to cause excessive 
heat at times which killed whatever value there was in the steam. 
In addition, there always seemed to be an accumulation of lint 
around the trap, and the floor and machinery for quite a space 
around never seemed clean. 

Fig. 139 shows very clearly the advantage gamed from the 
use of this system; the open fuzzy strand was photographed 
durmg the time that the percentage of moisture was very small ; 
the air being what is commonly called m a dry state. The close 
strand with little if any fuzzy fibres was photographed after the 
moistenmg system had been installed, which conclusively proves 
the value of this system in obtaining relative humidity. 



274 



WEAVING 



261 




Fig. 139. Yarn Spun With and Without Humidifier. 



275 



262 WEAVING 



The instrument for measuring the degree of relative humidity 
is in the form of a double thermometer, technically called hygrome- 
ter; to one there is connected a Avet bulb; a wick attached to 
this and resting m a small quantity of water is so influenced by 
the atmosphere as to register on the hygrometer the degree of 
humidity. As the air becomes dry the moisture surrounding the 
wick is absorbed, thus loweruig the indicated temperature in that 
thermometer, mcidentally indicating the difference m the humidity 
of the room. If there was no evaporation from the wet bulb, it 
would indicate that the air in the room was thoroughly saturated 
and both thermometers would read the same. 



g76 




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JACQUARD MACHINES 



The term Jacqiiard Weaving may be applied to all harness 
weaving that is above the range of harness shafts, so that a jac- 
quard machine is simply a shedding motion whereby a large 
variety of sheds may be formed. The greater the number of lift- 
ing hooks contained in a machine, the greater will be the range of 
patterns that may be woven. Jacquard machines range from 100 
to 2600 hooks. 

Since its introduction the jacquard machine has undergone 
many changes in regard to the methods of operating the different 
parts of the machine, but the principles remain the same, 

Jacquard machines may be classed under four heads, as fol- 
lows: First, Single Action Machines, meaning single cylinder 
machines; second, Double-Lift Single Cylinder Machines; third, 
Double Action Machines, meaning double-lift and two cylinders; 
axidi fourth. Rise and Fall Machines, which have a close-shed mo- 
tion. There are also special machines. 

When speaking of a jacquard, all the parts comprising the 
machine and the harnesses are included. These may be classified 
as follows: 

(fl^) A number of wire hooks placed vertically in the frame 
of the machine. 

(J) A number of wire needles placed horizontally between 
the wire hooks. 

(c) A number of springs at one end of the needles. 

{d) Tail cords or neck bands attached to the bottom of the 
wire hooks. 

(e) Harness threads which are attached to a coupling that 
passes through the comber board, 

(/") The coupling, which is usually composed of three or 
four parts as follows : 

A lingo, usually made of various weights of wire and which 
is at the extreme end of the coupling; a double thread, commonly 



279 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



termed a hanger, which attaches the lingo to a mail eye; and the 
mail eye, through which the warp yarn is passed. "When there 
are four parts, a double thread termed the mid-piece or sleeper is 
attached to the top of the eyelet and is then fixed to the harness 
threads mentioned at e. 

{g) The cylinder and its working parts. 

(A) The griff e levers. 

{pj The griffe. 

Hooks. A description of the great variety of hooks and 
needles which have been used and which combine different ideas 



n n 



A 



I ^^ 



A 



Fig. 1. Hooks Resting on Perforated Board. 



Fig. 3. Flat Hooks. 



as to their relative values and adaption for the various machines 
in which they were or are used, will be both interesting and in- 
structive. 

In the old jacquard machine the hooks rested on a perforated 
board, through which the reck cord passed, and the bottom of 
the hook was bent up about five inches, as shown in Fig. 1. Bars 
were passed through the turned up portion, as shown in the illus- 
tration, to prevent the hooks from turning. The bars formed a 
frame which was lifted when the griffe was raised. 

The next hook, as shown in Fig. 2, was flat. This also rested 
on a perforated board, and, to assist in keeping the hook in posi 



S«9 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



tion, the needle was twisted around the hook. This kind of hook 
and needle required too much time 
and labor when one had to be replaced. 
The illustration, Fig 3, shows 
the next form of hook that was used, 
and which is used at the present time 
in many French machines. This also 
rested on a perforated board. The 
chief object of this hook M^as to re- 
move the necessity of having springs 
to force back the needles. At the 
point marked A, a rod passed through 
the hooks from one side of the ma- 
chine to the other, which kept the 
hooks quite firm. Near the top of 
the hook at positions B and B^, two 
more rods were placed, one being at 
the back of the hook and the other at 
the front, the bottom of the hook being held firmly, while the rod 



Fig. 3. Hook Sometimes Used on 
French Machines. 





/ 




f 




f 




/ 




f 




/ 




/ 




f 






n 




























>> 


/ 






















\ 


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V. 


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p 




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Fig. 4. Common Jacquard Hook. 



B pressing against the back portion of the hook caused a certain 
amount of spring. 



281 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The rod B^ was to prevent tlie hook from swinging under the 
blades of the griffe when the latter was descending. The needles 
used with this hook had an elbow which pressed against the front 
of the hook as shown at C. 

What we shall term the ordinary shaped hook, but which 
formerly was much thicker, was next used. This is illustrated in 



G\'^'7hOhOh^nh'^ 



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Ch. 



c^ 



Ch 



Ch 



Ch 



(3- 



\J \J \J \J kJ \^ Ky 

Fig. 5. Showing Deep Griffe Blades, 



Fig. 4. The lower portion of these hooks passes through a grate, 
each hook passing through a single slot. When first used, these 
hooks were often bent or "crowned" under the griffe as it de- 
scended. In some cases the trouble was due to the wire from 
which the hook was made, but more often it was due to there be- 
ing too great a distance betw^een the point where the needle was 
in contact with the hook, and the griffe, causing the hook to swing 
or vibrate. To overcome this defect, deep griffe blades (shown in 
Fig. 5) were introduced. 



28S 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The use of these deep blades made it difficult for the fixer to 
replace broken hooks, in addition to adding weight to the machine, 
so another change was made, deep and shallow blades being fixed 
alternately; using hooks shown in Fig. 6. In this arrangement 
the long hooks had a tendency to swing back under the short 
blade owing to the great length of the hook, when the loom was 
run at a high speed. 



/ 



3. 



(a 



Cb. 



3 



/ 



Ch 



3 



^ 



/ 



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\^ \y Ky \^ \y \j \y \^ 

Fig. 6. Alternate Arrangement of Grifle Blades. 

The hook illustrated in Fig. 7 was then introduced. It will 
be noted the wire extends some distance beyond the point when 
the wire was bent to catch on the blade of the griffe. While they 
were new, these hooks overcame the difficulty to a certain extent, 
but as soon as they became worn, the top portion of the wire 
would bend and break, falling into the machine. 

In most of the jacquard machines used at the present time, 
the griffe has been lowered to within approximately one inch of 
the top of the needles and the hooks have been made of stronger 



2a'a 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



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U 



fa- 



Fig; 7. Showing Hook Extending Above Griffe. 



O 

O o 
Oo 

o 6 



^ 



& 



'/h '/?n 



// 



/I 



laj 



^ 



\r 



■m- 



@. 



W v./* V^ V^ V^ V-^ V-- 

Pig. 8. Hooks Used at the Present Time. 



284 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



material (shown in Fig. 8), enabling a more compact machine to 
be made. 

SINGLE ACTION MACHINE 

The illustration, Fig. 9, shows a jacqnard known as the 
Single Action Machine. The chief feature of this machine is 




that the same griffe lifts the hooks for every shed, so the 
griflPe must descend before the next shed can be lifted. This al- 
lows all the yarn to be lifted from the bottom shed. The single 
action machine is convenient and well adapted to work w^hen a 



280 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



high speed is not required; ninety to one hundred tliirty picks per 
minute being the most suitable speeds. 

In the silk industry the single action machine is extensively 
used as there is no danger of the cards becoming' crossed. This 
is a very valuable feature as wrong picks are often placed in the 
cloth by a double cylinder machine through the skipping of the 
cards. 

Construction. The single action is the original idea and is 
the simplest machine. Fig. 10 shows a sectional view of a 400- 
hook single machine. The meaning of the term 400-hook is as 
follows: There are four hundred hooks and four hundred needles 
in the machine which are in rows of eight hooks and eight needles. 
It also means that there are four hundred harness threads to one 
repeat of the maximum pattern that can be woven by the ma- 
chine. Nearly all machines have a few extra hooks (from 16 to 
26) which are often classed with the regular number of books, 
but are chiefly used for extra work, such as selvedge, extra har- 
nesses, etc. A pattern of less than four hundred to a repeat can 
be woven, by casting out some of the hooks. 

Referring to Fig. 10, B is the needle board or plate, through 
which the points of the needles E protrude three-eighths or one- 
half inch. C is the griffe which is composed of eight blades; H 
is the spring box, containing four hundred brass springs which 
are placed against the back or loop ends of the needles, one spring 
for each needle. G is the grate through which the hooks F pass. 

Needle Plate. In some cases the needle plate is made of 
wood and in others it is made of metal, but the former is un- 
doubtedly the more economical from every standpoint. Particu- 
larly is this shown in the single cylinder machines where the cyl- 
inder travels at a faster rate of speed than a double cylinder ma- 
chine, consequently there is more movement and a larger amount 
of friction between the needle and needle board or plate, which 
results in rapidly wearing out the points of the needles if a metal 
plate is used. Worn needle points cause a large amount of 
trouble, for in single cylinder machines the cylinder has a tendency 
to half-turn when the lay is pushed back by hand, and when the 
cylinder returns to the needle points the corner of the cylinder 
presses against them and invariably bends a number of the points 



286 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



down on to the plate. This prevents some of the hooks which 
ought to be lifted from being lifted, and causes some hooks to be 
lifted which ought to be down. 

A composition of powdered black lead and French chalk was 
used to prevent the needle points from wearing out, but it was 
discarded because the dust was constantly dropping into the har- 
nesses and yarn, and also was very disagreeable for the weaver. 



oooo 
oooo 
oooo 
oooo 
oooo 
oooo 
oooo 
oooo 



H 
Spring Box 




Fig. 10. Showing Arrangement of Hooks, Needles, Etc. 

A needle board or plate for a 400-machine, has 416 holes, 
arranged in 52 rows with 8 holes in a row. The rows are divided 
by a groove into 26 roM^s on each side. There are also grooves at 
each end of the needle board. The grooves are for the lacings 
which hold the cards together. 

The lacing naturally makes the card occupy more space at 
the ends and center, because it passes along the upper and under 
sides of the card, and if there were no grooves in the needle board, 
the needles would have to be made longer so as to allow the points 
to protrude farther out from the needle board ; or when the card 



2S7 



10 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



was in contact with the needle points, the hooks would not be 
pressed back far enough to prevent them from being lifted. The 
grooves are also a great saving on the lacing of the cards, for if it 
came in close contact with the needle board every time the cylin- 
der was drawn in, the lacing would soon be cut, and this often 
causes the breakage of cards. 

The reason for the extra rows of needles, is to allow the sel- 
vedge to be worked by that row of hooks; also because a jacquard 
sometimes has patterns added that require additional harness at 



O 



O 



O 



b 



)o 



Fig. 11. Showing Loops for Springs. 

the front and back of the comber board, and the extra needles 
are used for the working of the extra harness. 

A sirring hox is seldom used on American machines to hold 
the springs that press back the needles, but where the spring box 
is dispensed with, a longer loop is made on the back end of the 
needle (see Fig. 11) and the spring is placed on the loop, with the 
cotter, which holds the needles. The spring box, however, is 
most certainly of value if it is made to fit squarely in the frame- 
work of the machine. The springs are kept cleaner and conse- 
quently will give good results; and if a spring should break, it 
can be replaced more readily in a spring box thun if it were on 
the end of a needle. 



288 



JACQUAKD MACHINES 



11 



There is, however, one disadvantage in using the spring box, 
for when the hole, through which the bolt, M'hich holds the box 
in position, passes, has become worn, some of the needles will be 
pressing against the edge of the spring instead of the center, un- 
less care is taken in fixing on the box. This causes the needles to 
stick in the box, preventing the hooks from working as they 
ought to do. 




Fig. 12. Hooks Out of Perpendicular with Needles. 

When placi/ig hooks and needles in a machine, one row of 
eight needles is placed in first; that is, the needles are passed 
through the bars that extend across the machine from side to side, 
and into the holes in the needle board. On the bars the loop of 
the needle rests, the bars keeping each 52 needles separate. The 
first needle is the one that has the half circle, through which the 
hook passes, nearest the needle board at the top (see Fig. 10), and 
the others are graded down until the eighth is placed in. This 
will be the bottom needle with the half circle nearest the spring 
box H. 

When the cotter has been placed through the loop of the 
needles, the hooks are placed in among the needles. The first 
hook is pressed through the half circle of the needle and passes on 
the outside of the others, which keeps the hook in position. The 
second is placed through the half circle of the second needle, but 



289 



12 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



passes on the outside of the first needle and on the outside of the 
lower needles. This rule is followed out until the eighth hook is 
placed in position. 

The grate through which the hooks pass is sometimes ma(Je 
with extra rows of holes, and is also made so that it can be moved 
around to help in the setting of the hooks. For this reason, it is 
best, after placing in one row of hooks, to notice if they are 
straight in the grate. If they are not straight, and cannot be 
made straight by moving the grate, the next row of holes must be 
used. If the hooks are not straight, even though they may work 



f\f\f 


/] ;] ;n ; 


;| A 

m- 

— m* 

AfW 

w 

— m 

— m 

Wr 






J L 



Fig. 13. Hooks Out of Perpendicular with Needles. 

freely, the needles, hooks and grate will be worn out in a very 
short time. 

The hook that passes through the first needle is considered 
the first thread in the pattern, although when standing in front of 
a single action machine, it is the last thread. In a machine that 
has the needle board divided into twenty-six rows at one side of 
the middle, and twenty-five at the other side, the twenty-six rows 
are always at the left-hand side of the machine, looking at the 
point of the needles. (So that the number end of the cards will 
be at the left hand side of the machine, looking at the top needle 
board.) 



8i90 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



13 



When all the needles and hooks have been placed in the ma- 
chine, the frame in which the bars that support the top of the 
needle, are fixed, must be made perfectly straight Math the needle 
board. If they are not straight with each other, there is endless 
trouble with the machine. In the first place, the loop of the 
needle presses down the spring when the needle is forced back by 
the card, instead of pressing the spring back straight in the box. 
This will cause the springs to wear out sooner and they will often 
stick, preventing the hooks from being lifted. 

In the second place, the needle points v/ill not be straight in 
the needle board. This causes the hole in the board to be worn 
crooked, also, the dust and oil that get into the back portion of the 
board has a greater tendency to bind the needles when they are 
not straight. The holes in the needle board at the back are coun- 
ter sunk, which allows the needles to be placed in 
more readily when the machine is being fixed up, or 
when a broken needle has to be replaced 

"When the hooks and needles have been fixed, the 
grate, needle board and needle frame adjusted, the 
spring box is attached and every needle is tested and 
made to work freely. After this is done, the griff e 
is placed in the machine. It is absolutely necessary 
that the grifPe be made to lift straight, and each blade 
or knife must be in exact position relative to the 
hooks, or there will be a number of the hooks either 
"crowned" or not lifted when they ought to be. The 
griffe is made so that each side can be moved either 
forward or backward, but it is sometimes necessary 
to bend one or two blades of the griff e so as to have 
them straight with the hooks. Figs. 12, 13 and 14 
show crooked hooks and needles. 

When the griff e is set, the top of the blade ought to be just 
touching the hook. If the hook is pressing too hard against the 
blade, either the needle point must extend farther out from the 
needle board, or the cylinder has to press hard against the needle 
board when the hooks have to be pressed off the griffe. Either, 
case is detrimental to the machine. In the first instance, the 



14. 



cylinder requires to pass farther out from the needle board, to 



891 



14 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



allow the cards to clear the needle points when the cylinder is be- 
ing turned, or there is a possibility of the edge of the card catch- 
ing on the needle points, preventing the cylinder from turning. 



,^ 







Fig. 1.5. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Independent Batten Motion. 

and causing niisspicks. In the second instance, if the cylinder 
presses too hard against the needle board, the lacing is often cut, 
and the needles have a tendency to pierce the card where it is 
blank. 



293 



JACQUARD MACHINES 15 

Having set all the inner parts of the machine, the next in 
order is the tying on of the neck cords. Carelessness in the set- 
ting of the inner parts so far mentioned cannot afterwards be rec- 
tified, and means the loss of years of work from the machine be- 
sides having endless trouble during the time it is "working. ' 

The Outer Workings of the flachine. There are five distinct 
methods of operating the mova,ble parts of the machine: First, top 
or overhead lever lift and independent batten or swing cylinder 
motion; second, oyevhe2i& lever and spindle cylinder motion; third, 
overhead lever and independent slide cylinder motion; fourtli, 
bottom or cradle lever lift, and independent spindle cylinder mo- 
tion; and fifths bottom or cradle lever lift and spindle cylinder 
motion. 

The first method is illustrated by Fig. 15. It consists of a 
lever at the top of the machine, or in some instances suspended 
from the beam that supports the ceiling. The inner end of the 
lever is connected by a link to the crossbar of the griffe. This 
must be fixed exactly in the center of the crossbar so as to give a 
straight lift to the griffe. To the outer end of the lever, a long 
driving rod is attached. The bottom end of the driving rod is 
placed on a stud attached to the hand wheel, which is fixed on the 
crank shaft of the boom when the machine is a single lift. The 
overhead lever is from thirty-six to forty inches long, according 
to the width of the loom. On the thirty-six inch lever the inner 
end, which is attached to the crossbar from the link to the sup- 
porting stud, fixed in the bracket attached to the framework of 
the machine, is about ten and one-half inches long, and the longer 
end, which is attached to the lifting rod, is twenty-four to twenty- 
five and two-thirds inches long. The throw from the center of 
shaft to the stud fixed to the hand wheel is four inches. This 
gives an eight-inch stroke on the hand wheel. 



lOj X 8 

25 ~ ^3 



= 34 inches 



Allowing for the fall of the griffe below the bend of the hook 
the movement will give about a three-inch shed in the harnesses. 



296 



16 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The batten or swing cylinder movement is shown in detail in 
Fig. 16. It is composed of five distinct parts as follows: 

(a) Two small arms are fixed at the top of the machine, one 
at each side. Two pointed set screws w4th lock nuts are set in the 
arms and the batten or swing is supported on these points. 

(b) The batten, which is in the form of a square iron fra,me. 
(6) Two cups set in the batten frame, which support the 

cylinder. The cups are made of iron or brass and are held in 
place by a bolt with thumb screw on the outside of the frame of 
the batten. Set into the bottom of the batten frame and pressing 




K 



Fig. 16. Details of Batten or Swing Cylinder Motion. 

upwards against the cups, are two set screws whose purpose is to 
raise or lower the cylinder. 

(d) The cylinder. This is a square prism with a number 
of holes bored on each side to correspond with the needles in the 
machine. On each of the four sides of the cylinder and near each 
end there is a small brass peg (shown in Fig. 17) for the purpose 
of holding the card in the correct position on the cylinder. (The 
perforations in the cards should be over the holes in the cylinder). 
The pegs are set so they can be adjusted to the right or left. At 
the ends of the cylinder square iron castings with rounded edges 
are fixed. 



294 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



17 



((?) A spring hammer, the flat end of Avhich rests on the 
casting on the end of the cylinder. What might be termed the 
handle of the hammer passes throngh the lower cross rail of the 
bottom frames and through the top frame. 
A spring is placed between the two rails and 
around the handle of the hammer. The ob- 
ject of the hammer is to keep the cylinder 
perfectly level so that the cylinder will strike 
the board level. 

Flat springs also are attached to the in- 
side of the batten, the lower end of the spring 
pressing the card to the cylinder. It is im- 
possible to overestimate the value of these 
springs, especially on single cylinder ma- 
chines, for it would be almost impossible to 

work without them. Their great value is shown when the cylinder 
is leaving the needle board by preventing the card from swing- 




Fig. 17. Spring Peg. 




Fig. 18. Cylinder Out of True with Needle Board. 

ing on to the points of the needles, and also preventing the cards 
from slipping off the pegs as the cylinder is drawn over by the 
catch. 



295 



18 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The catch is fixed to the framework of the machine, and 
rests on the square casting fixed to the end of the cylinder. -As 
the cylinder moves out, the catch comes in contact with the 
rounded edges of the square and in this manner the cylinder is 
turned. There is also another catch fixed underneath, but it is 
not in contact with the cylinder, and is adjusted so that it can be 
raised up in contact and the top catch raised from contact with 
the cylinder. This permits the cylinder to be turned back when 
a lost pick has to be found. 

At each side of the batten frame toward the lower end, an arm 
is fixed. To these arms rods that extend downward are attached, 



Fig. 19. Iron Bar Supporting Batten Frame. 

and each rod is fixed to an arm that is set-screwed on a shaft sup- 
ported by brackets fixed to the arch of the loom. At the end of 
this shaft another arm is fixed and is connected to the eccentric 
rod that is attached to the clamp that encircles the cam or eccen- 
tric. The cam is for the purpose of imparting motion to the 
batten. The cam generally used to operate the batten is about 
three and one-half inches from center of movement to extreme 
outside length of cam. The cylinder is moved out from the 
needle board from two to three inches. 

For the saving of cards, a great deal depends upon the move- 
ment that is imparted to the cylinder. The less movement that 
can be given to the cylinder, the better; that is, of course, when 
obtaining the i-esults required. The cylinder ought to be about 
one-quarter inch from the needle points when commencing to turn. 
Sometimes it is necessary to have the cylinder a little farther out, 
especially when the cards have been stored in a damp place and 
become warped so that they do not lie flat on the cylinder. In 



286 



JACQUARD ]\IACHINES 



19 



this case, unless the cylinder is a little farther out from the needle 
points when commencing to turn, the edge of the card will catch 
on the needle points. This will throw the cards off the pegs and 
cause a pick-out. If the distance traveled by the cylinder is too 
short, it causes too sharp a turning of the cylinder, which has a 
tendency to jump the cards from the pegs; and if the cylinder 
moves out too far, there is too much friction on the working parts, 
as the laro-er distance has to be traveled in the same space of time 
as the shorter distance. 

When setting the batten frame by either the set screws or the 
arms to which the set screws are attached, the principal point is 
that the cylinder must be flat against the needle board, both at the 




Fig. 20. Spindle Cylinder Motion. . 

top and bottom of the board, and have the needle points as near 
the center of the holes in the cylinder as possible. It is particu- 
larly desirable that all points be square and straight with the 
batten motion, because the batten, moving from a top connection, 
performs an arc movement, and if the cylinder does not lie flat 
against the needle board, some of the hooks will not be pressed 
far enough off the griffe, or the points of the needles will come in 
contact with the sides or bottom of the holes in the cylinder and 
in that case, hooks will be down when they ought to be lifted. 
Fig. 18 shows the cylinder set crooked with the needle board. 

The set screw support for the batten frame is a very objec- 
tional feature as will readily be seen, for the frame resting and 
working on two points is a great strain and some part of the 



297 



20 JACQUARD MACHINES 

screw soon becomes worn. This, of course, lowers the cylinder. 
When the cylinder is adjusted by turning the set screw, the frame 
is not only raised higher but is moved to the right or left, which 
throws the cylinder out of place, thus making double the amount 
of work to adjust it. 

The method of supporting a batten frame on an iron bar is 
by far the best, as by this arrangement, the cylinder can be di- 
rectly adjusted. The illustration given in Fig. 19, shows this 
method of supporting the cylinder. 

In the second method of operating the movable parts (see 
Fig. 20) the top motion remains the same as in the first, but the 
method of operating the cylinder is different. Fixed to each side 
of the square iron frame that supports the cylinder, is an iron 
spindle, which passes through two brackets which act as slides for 
the spindle and are fixed to the frame of the machine. Attached 
to this cylinder spindle is a two-inch cranked slotted arm. At^ 
tached to the spindle of the griffe is a small extention on which an 
iron roller is placed. This iron roller sets in the slot of the 
cranked arm; the slot arm being about seven inches long. The 
seven inches is divided into three parts, the top and lower por- 
tions being, perpendicular, to allow a rest for the cylinder when it 
is out from the needle board, and also when it is in contact with 
the needle board. As the griffe is lifted, the roller passing up 
the slot of the cranked arm forces out the cylinder. The distance 
the cylinder is moved cannot be changed to any great extent, nei- 
ther can the time of the cylinder be changed, so that when a 
warped set of cards is being used, there is always the tendency for 
the cards to catch on the needle points. 

In the third movement (see Fig. 21), the top motion is the 
same as the first and second, but the cylinder movement is dis- 
tinct. A flat, iron casting which acts as a slide, is placed on each 
side of the machine. These slides are supported by small iron 
rollers, which are placed in brackets fixed to the frame of the ma- 
chine. At the end of the slide, a brass cup for the cylinder and 
the spring hammer is fixed. A stud is attached to the slide. 
The rod connected to the clamp>of the cam (or what is called the 
eccentric rod) extends upwards and is attached to an arm that is 
set- screwed on a shaft, but extends upwards. This movement is 



298 




KNOWLES BRUSSELS AND WILTON LOOM 

Crompton & Knowles Loom Works 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



21 



one of the best. The brackets that support the rollers are adjust- 
able but seldom in the life of a harness do they require adjusting, 
for if the rollers are well oiled they last many years, because the 
friction is at the lowest possible point. 

In the fourth movement a square cradle lever is placed in 
brackets near the feet of the machine, and connected to the top of 
the griffe spindle by means of an arm attached to the end of the 
cradle lever. This is shown in the double lift machine. Fig. 22. 




Fig. 21. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Slide Cylinder Motion. 

There is an arm at each side of the machine that "is connected to 
the cradle lever. To the outer end of the lever the long lifting 
rod is attached. The length of the square lever is generally 
twenty-eight inches from fulcrum to connection of long lifting 
rod, and ten inches on the shorter end. This gives about a four- 
inch lift to the griffe. The cylinder is driven by an independent 
spindle motion. An iron spindle is attached to the frame that 
supports the cylinder. The spindle passes through two slide 
brackets fixed to the sides of the machine. Between the two 



29& 



22 JACQUARD MACHINES 

brackets and set-screwed on the spindle is an extension with a 
stud attached to the top of it. On this stud, the connecting arm 
from the lever is placed. The lever is supported' at the top of the 
same bracket that supports the square lifting lever. To the outer 
end of the lever the eccentric rod is attached, but instead of using 
a cam to give motion to the cylinder, one part of a double crank 
is used, the other portion is used for lifting the grille. 

The fifth method is the same as the fourth with the excep- 
tion that the cylinder is operated by the slotted crank arm. same 
as in the second method. 

DOUBLE LIFT AND SINGLE CYLINDER MACHINES 

The illustration, Fig. 22, shows a machine of this type. The 
same methods are used to operate this kind of machine as are used 
with the single action with this exception that there must be two 
lifting levers, either overhead or cradle levers. The reason for 
using this kind of machine is to have an open shed motion, and to 
gain a little extra speed; but this naturally drives the cylinder 
faster, consequently there is a greater damage done to the cards 
unless great care is taken with them and additional appliances 
used to prevent them from jumping off the pegs. 

The needles and hooks used in this kind of machine are 
shown in Fig. 23. Each needle has two eyes or curves. The rea- 
son for two eyes is as follows: There is but one cylinder and two 
griffes, one of which is descending while the other is ascending. 
The cylinder has to pass in for every pick; that is, for each lift of 
the griffe, which necessitates the use of double the number of 
hooks; so that in a 400-machine, there are 800 hooks, without the 
extra ones. The top bend of every hook is turned in the same 
direction, that is, toward the needle board. 

The hook that is used on this machine requires a deep bend 
at the top so as to have a firm grip on the griffe blade. This is 
necessitated by the method of controlling two hooks with one 
needle, for it sometimes happens that one hook is lifted while the 
other is pressed back by the cylinder, so that the same thread will 
not be lifted for the next pick. 

The bottom x)f the hook is made in the form of a capital let- 
ter Y. The reason for this is that it saves a considerable amount 



300 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



23 



of friction by allowing the bottom of the Look that is lifted to 
move back a little as the '^partner" hook is being pressed by the 
needle. This shape of hook saves the grate through which the 




bottom of the hook passes. Fig, 23 shows the position occupied 
by the hooks when one hook is lifted and the other hook (which 
passes through the same needle) is pressed off. The dotted lines 
show the original positions of the hooks. 



301 



24 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



In addition to the added friction on the needles and hooks, it 
takes considerably more time to replace a worn needle than it does 
in machines where single needles are used, for a rod has to be 
temporarily inserted that will press to one side the tw^o hooks 
around which the needle has to go, and it is often necessary to 
take out the hooks until the needle has been replaced, particularly 



f\ 



nf\f\f\ f\f\f[ 



Fig. 23. Needles and Hooks Used in Doiible Lift and Single Cylinder Machines. 

if the machine is an old one, or if deep blades are used in the 

grifPe. 

DOUBLE ACTION MACHINE 

This means that there are two griffes and two cylinders. The 
same methods are used to operate the moving parts, as are used on 
the single action machines, but the lever and arms are used in a 
compound manner. This machine is undoubtedly the best, where 
large reproduction is aimed at, for it can be run 170 or 180 picks 
per minute. The illustration. Fig. 24, shows a double action 
machine. 

The shedding motion is obtained by means of a double crank 
fixed on the end of the pick cam shaft, and to which the long lift- 



302 



JACQUARD INIACHINES 



25 



ing rods are attached. This is shown in Fig. 25. Cams have 
been used to take the place of the double crank, so as to allow a 
dwell for the shed while the shuttle is passing through. It is par- 
ticularly desirable in a broad loom to have the shed full open for 
a longer period in order to give clearance for the shuttle, but the 




cam motion was proven to be somewhat detrimental, owing to the 
quick rise and fall of the harnesses, which causes the lingoes to 
jump and to be constantly breaking off. The neck cords also were 
constantly breaking. The cam movement could be used success- 
fully with a Jacquard that had not many harness threads attached 



303 



26 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



^ 



Fig. 25. 



^ ^ 



fis 



R 



to the neck cords, and had heavier lingoes fixed to the harnesses, 

but for general use, the double crank is best, as it gives a more 

even movement. There is also a short dwell while passing around 

the extended part of the crank. 

The time to set the crank is to have it level, that 
is, the two extreme points horizontal, w^hen the crank 
shaft is a little ahead of the bottom center, or to have 
the reed about li inches from the cloth when the 
shed is level. 

Owing to the general for- 
mation of the double action 
machine, that is, the use of 
two hooks for one set of har- 
ness threads, there is a some- 
what uneven movement to the 
harnesses. When a griife is 
descending and some of the 
hooks that are on the griffe 
are to be lifted for the next 
shed, and the hooks are pass- 
ing each other at the center 

of movement, the angle of the harness 

threads is changed, for as one hook is lifted 

from- the top shed, the neck cord attached 

to the hook that is at the bottom is slack. 

When this hook is raised for the next pick, 

at the point when all the slack cord is 

taken up, the uneven movement is caused, 

the harnesses swinging over into the line 

with the lifting hook. The results from 

this movement are not so harmful if the 

jacquard is tied up proportionally and run 

at the right speed; but when the machine 

is run too fast and the lingoes are too light, also when the neck 

cord is too short, a large amount of trouble is caused. 

Instead of connecting the harnesses to the hooks, by means of 

two neck cords, one is used as showm in Fig. 26. The link answers 




Y 



V 



Fig. 26. Showing Connec- 
tion of Neck Cords 
to Hooks. 



the purpose for which it is intended, th^t isj to tak^ p. way the slack 



304 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



27 



neck cord. It also reduced the uneven movement. However, un- 
less the hooks are kept perfectly straight, the link will not work, 
and it is common for a hook to he bent a little underneath the 

grate. 

When one neck cord breaks on the ordinary double action 
machine, the defect is not readily seen, because the harness cord 
will be lifted by the other hook, unless it is a pattern where that 
particular hook from which the cord has broken is lifted very 
often. When the link is used, all the harness threads that are 




\/ 



\/ 



\/ \/ 



\/ 



\/ 



B K 

\7 



^^pS^ 



is^ 






V V V V \/ 

Fig. 27. Arrangement of Needles and Hooks in Double Action Machine. 

attached to the link will fall, owing to the use of only one neck 
cord; this also occurs on the single action machine. 

Needles. The illustration Fig. 27 shows the arrangement of 
needles in a double action machine. The first needle at the top 
marked A, controls the hook B, passing down in regular order 
until the bottom needle in the right hand needle board, marked C, 
controls the hook D. The first needle in the left hand or bottom 
needle board, marked E, controls the hook F, which is the partner 
to D, that is, F and D control the same harness threads, as will be 
noticed by the connection at the bottom G^ The eighth needle in 



305 



28 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



the bottom needle board, marked H, controls the hook K, which 
is the partner hook to B. The bottom set of needles is exactly 
like the top set. They are placed in the same relative position, 
but work from the opposite direction. 

There being two cylinders on this type of machine, one passes 
in as the other is going out. Both cylinders turn toward the 
machine as indicated by the arrows, and a glance at the two cards 
A and B with holes marked 1 and 2, and needles marked the same 
will show the two hooks F and D control the same harness threads. 

It will be noticed that one hook has the top bend bent back- 
ward, while the other bends forward in the same direction as the 




Fig. 28. Showing Levers, Supports and Studs. 

lower bend of the hook. The reason for this latter is that it would 
require more space in the grate and the needles would have to be 
longer, which would make a broader machine if the same shape of 
hook were used; so that by the use of these hooks, considerable 
spa;ce is gained. 

When cutting cards for a double action machine, each card is 
cut from the design singly, just the same as if cutting cards for a 
single action machine. After the cards are cut, they are divided, 
the odd numbers from the even numbers, so that when laced they 
form, as it were, two sets of cards, one set being placed at one side 
of the machine and the other set at the other side of the machine. 

A double action machine is composed of double the number 
of working parts that are on a single action machine, but they are 



306 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



29 



placed so as to work in different directions, with the exception 
that with an independent cylinder motion only one eccentric rod 
is used, and the eccentric is placed on the pick cam shaft. But if 
the cylinders are operated by a spindle motion, a slotted crank arm 
is attached to the lifting rod of each griffe and the cylinder is 
moved out as the griff e to which it is attached is raised, one cylin- 
der moving out from contact with the needle board as the grilfe, 
that comes in contact with the hook controlled by the needles of 




Fig. 29. Rack Method of Lifting Griffe. 

that board, is raised, at the same time the other cylinder is passing 
in towards the needle board while the second griffe is descending. 
When using the cradle lever on a double action machine, it is 
necessary to have two different sizes of lifting cranks to allow ex- 
tra lift for the difference in length of the levers, owing to one of 
the levers working on the inside of the other. The length of 
levers used is about 30 inches for the longer end, from fulcrum to 
connection of lifting rod, and 13 inches for the shortest end on the 
longer lever. Fulcrum to connection of lifting arm on the shorter 
lever is 25 inches, and 10 inches on the shorter, end. The double 



307 



30 



JACQUARD MACHINES 




B 



crank is made so that the one with the 12-inch stroke is attached 
to the shorter lever, and the 10-inch stroke operates the longer lever. 
The cradle lever lift is used only on machines that have the 
harnesses attached to them by the cross tie system, because by the 
straight tie system the machine is turned in the opposite direction; 

that is, one set of cards vi^ould be over 
the cloth in the loom, and the other set 
over the warp; and in the cross tie sys- 
tem the cards are over the sides of the 
loom or over shuttle boxes. 

The top lever lift is considered by 
many to be the best method of operating 
the griffes, and this method can be used 
whether the harnesses are attached by 
the straight tie or the cross tie system. 
All that is required to be changed is 
that where as in the straight tie both the 
levers are on the same stud, and fixed to 
one support, the levers for the cross tie 
are placed on separate studs with sepa- 
rate supports. The reason for using 
separate supports and studs is to meet 
the different positions of the griffe bar. 
(See Fig. 28.) 

Other lifting methods have been 
successfully tried on double action machines; one being a rack 
movement shown in Fig. 29 and another a pulley and belt lift 
shown in Fig. 30. 

The rack movement is as follows: 
supported in bearings fixed to the top of the machine. This shaft 
extends over the end of the machine. The supports are bolted to 
the cross rail of the griffe, and on these supports the racks are 
fixed. The shaft passes between the two racks, and the gear is 
fixed on the shaft in contact with the rack. An arm is set-screwed 
on the outer end of the shaft, and to this arm a long lifting rod is 
attached. The bottom of the rod is placed on a stud attached to 
the face of a round iron plate that is set-screwed on the pick cam 
shaft. 



-4 

c 




Fig. 30. Pi^Uey and Belt for 
Lifting Griffe. 



A 1^-inch iron shaft is 



30§ 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



31 



In Fig. 30 the pulley A is supported on a shaft in the same 
position as the gear for the rack motion, and to the pulley a strip 
of belting B is attached, each end being fixed to the cross rail of 




the griffe at C, The belt motion is a simple arrangement, but the 
griffe must act freely and perfectly straight or the griffe will not 
descend low enough to allow the hooks to be pressed off by the 
cylinder. 



309 



32 JACQUARD MACHINES 

THE RISE AND FALL OR CLOSE SHED MACHINE 

The illustration, Fig, 31, shows a machine of this type. Its 
purpose is to have all the harnesses level at the center movement. 
The same working parts are used on this machine as are used on 
the single action, the distinctive difference being that cranked 
levers are attached to the usual lifting levers so that the grate 
through which the hooks pass can be raised and lowered, and so 
that the griffe is raised only half the usual distance. 

After the cylinder has pressed off the hooks that are not to 
be lifted, the grate descends with these hooks, and at the same 
time the griffe raises the hooks that are to be lifted. 

On some rise and fall machines, a batten cylinder motion is 
used, but is fixed in the opposite position from the usual batten 
motion; that is, the batten swings from the bottom instead of 
from the top of the machine, the set screws that hold it in posi- 
tion being placed in brackets fixed near the feet of the machine. 

These machines cannot be run at a high speed, 130 being 
considered average, but faster speed is obtained when the pattern 
is equally balanced so that about the same number of ends are 
raised, as are falling. This style of machine is now extensively 
used for weaving table cloths, silk goods, etc. 



310 



REVIEW QUESTIONS. 



PRACTICAL TEST QUESTIONS. 

In the foregoing sections of this Cyclopedia nu- 
merous illustrative examples are worked out in 
detail in order to show the application of the 
various methods and principles. Accompanying 
these are examples for practice which will aid the 
reader in fixing the principles in mind. 

In the following pages are given a large num- 
ber of test questions and problems which afford a 
valuable means of testing the reader's knowledge 
of the subjects treated. They will be found excel- 
lent practice for those preparing for Civil Service 
Examinations. In some cases numerical answers 
are given as a further aid in this work. 



311 



REVIET\^ QUESTIONS 



ON' THE SUB.TECT OF 



TN^ARP PREPARATION 



1. Can a spooler be run at the same speed, regardless of 
the grade of cotton that is in the yarn, providing the counts are 
the same ? Give reasons f e)r your answer. 

2. Suppose a change was being made, and cop yarn had to 
be transferred instead of yarn from the bobbin ; Avhat change 
must be made on tlie spooler? 

3. Describe the bobbin-holder. How would you set the 
bob Gin-holder to obtain the best results? 

4. How would you increase the traverse on the builder 
motion? 

5. Suppose the spool were slipping, and it was not caused 
by a loose band; what would you do to remedy the fault? 

6. Suppose more yarn were being placed on the spool at 
one end of the traverse than the other; how would you remedy 
this? 

7. Describe the motion that builds the convex-shaped 

spool. 

8. What is the purpose of the warper ? 

9. Describe the long-chain beamer. Of what value is the 
swinging comb on this beamer? 

10. Which is the most economical system, to run several 
chains with a small number of threads in each chain, or run one 
chain with a large number of threads in it, both having to be split 
afterwards on the separating machine ? Why ? 



313 



WARP PREPARATION. 



11. Describe the difference between the two systems of 
making warps, long and short chain. Which is the best and most 
economical of the two for general colored work ? Why ? 

12. Suppose the beam or press weights were not placed on 
the warp as soon as it was started, what would be the result? 

13. What is the value of the faller rod? 

14. Describe the slow motion. Of what value is this 
motion ? 

15. How can a beam-warper be changed to a ball-warper? 

16. Explain the advantage of the linking machine. 

17. What processes do the yarns that are to be dyed pass 
through before they reach the slasher ? 

18. Is it possible to prevent the yarn from running on the 
warper-beam in ridges ? If so, how ? 

19. Describe the warper stop-mo^on, and also state its value. 

20. Of what value is the " Straw " winding machine ? 

21. Describe the method of imparting motion to the warper- 
beam ? 

22. Describe the size vat, naming the rollers that are in it 
in their riglit order, stating your preference of the two vats, jack- 
eted or one with the perforated pipe, giving reasons for your 
preference. 

23. What is the best covering for the squeeze rolls? Why 
use this covering in preference to others? 

24. Which do you consider better, a gear drive for the 
cylinder, or to allow the yarn to draw the cylinder around ? 
Why ? 

25. Of what use are the split rods ? 

26. How is yarn affected while passing around the cylinders ? 

27. What is the purpose of the slasher? 

28. What is the value of sulphate of magnesia? Of chlo- 
ride of zinc ? 

29. How must the slasher be run to obtain the best results? 

30. What would be the result if the press roll were too nar- 
row for the beam? Suppose the press roll were not placed 
against the warp when it was first started, or there were not suffi- 
cient weight on the roll, what would be the result ? 



314 



REVIEAY QUESTIONS 



ON THE S U H J E O T OF' 



TV^EAVIISTG 



PART I 



1. What is the first principle movement in weaving? 
Why should this principle be considered when purchasing looms? 

2. Which would you consider the best shedding cam for 
all round work ? Why ? 

3. What are the three essentials for good shedding? 
What would result from careless setting of these parts? 

4. Name the parts of the Bat-wing picking motion. 

5. Why use a lubricant on heddles? Which is the best 
for the purpose, tallow or oil? Why ? 

6. What is meant by cover on cloth? Ts this an advan- 
tage or not? 

7. What is meant by the dwell of a cam? 

8. What is meant by gradually developed power in the 
picking motion ? 

9. Describe what picking means. 

10. Describe the two methods of fixing the picking stick. 
Which do you consider the better, and why? 

11. Describe the three diiferent shapes of shoes; which is 
the better, and why ? 

12. How would you attach the heel spring to obtain the 
best results, and why? 

13. How would you set the shoe to obtain the best results, 
and why? 

14. Is there any advantage gained from an oversight of the 
heddles? If so, what is it? 



315 



REVIE^^ QUESTIONS 



ON THE STTBJECT OF 



T7EAVING 



PART TI 



1. What is the purpose of the lillmg stop motion ? 

2. Describe the alternate fillmg stop motion. 

3. Of what value is the protection motion on a plain loom? 
Describe how this motion works. How would you set the dagger 
m relation to the receiver? 

4. Describe fully the Crompton Gingham box motion. 

5. What particular points must be attended to, when fitting 
a new set of boxes to the loom ? 

6. Describe what would occur from a worn receiving plate 
on the protection motion. How would this occur ? 

7. Describe the two distinct shapes of forks on the alternate 
filling stop motion. Has one any advantage over the other, if so, 
how? 

8. Of what value is the lock-knife on the Knowles Ging- 
ham box motion ? Give the timing of the lock-knife. 

9. What is liable to occur from a worn picker and picking- 
stick ? Describe fully. 

10. Describe the center filling stop motion. 

11. What is liable to occur from the following on the pro- 
tection motion : worn dagger point, dagger too long, dagger too 
short? Describe how the faults occur. 

12. Describe what faults occur from the boxes binding or 
being too loose in the slides. 



316 



REVIEW QUEST IO]NrS 

ON THE SURJEOT OF 

WEAVING 

PART III 



1. If ten looms produce 0,500 yards in 11 days, how many 
yards will 35 looms produce in 9 days ? 

2. What is the actual length and weight of warp yarn m 
the f.jllowing pieces of cloth? Mercerized and fancy stripe, 32 
reed, fancy -1 hi 1 dent, mercerized 2 in 1 dent, 311 hiches in the reed, 
spaced 1 inch of fancy f inch of mercerized, finish with 1 mch of 
fancy, making 23 spaces of fancy, 22 spaces of mercerized; 30 
pieces of cloth 45 yards in length; mercerized stripe takes up 3,- 
per cent, fancy stripe 4 per cent. Fancy stripe 40's cotton, mer- 
cerized ts'^q's. 

3 " If the filling in the cloth has a tendency to drag at tiie 
sides as' it passes over'the breast beam, how would you remedy the 

fault? -.o. • 1 ■ 

4 What is the production of a loom running 180 picks per 

minute,' 58 hours per week, 72 picks per inch? Allow 12i- per 

cent for stoppage. 

5. Suppose the loom was continually stopping without the 
filhng breaking, what method would you pursue to find the cause? 

6. Name at least 10 causes of shuttle flying or jumpmg 
out, and explain how they cause the result. 

7. A weaver is paid ^8.30 for producmg 19 pieces of cloth, 
each 48 yards in length; what is the cost per piece and yard? 

8. Suppose the warp yarn was being broken^contmually m 
the same place, what would you consider the cause ? 

9. What weight of warp yarn would be requn-ed to make 
a warp of 80 pieces, 48 yards in a piece, 2,300 ends in width, 3o s 
cotton? Allow 3 per cent waste. 

10. If you had a loom making cockly or uneven cloth, 
where would you look for the cause ? . r i 

11. A weaver produces 280 yards of cloth, and receives 51 
cents per yard, what is the amount received? 



317 



INDEX 



The -page numbers of this voluvie xvill be found at (he bottom of the 
pages; the numbers at the top refer only to the section. 



Antiseptic 



Back binder 

Ball and shoe pick 

Balling machine 

Banding 

Banging off of loom 

Bat- wing pick 

Beam drive 23, 

Beam warping 

Beaming 

Beams, starting up a new set of 

Beating up 

Bleached goods 

Bobbin holder 

Bobbins breaking 

Brushes 

Building motion 

Bur temples 

C 

Calculations for 

measuring roll and bell gear 5 1 

striped cotton shirtings 61 
Cams adapted to different kinds of work C6 

Cams, construction of 104 

Care of looms 213 

Center stop motion 207 

Chain separator 35 

Colored warps 30 

Colored yarns 57 

Condenser reed 79 

Cone drive 24, 50 

Cone pick motion 124 

Cone pitch, relation of 126 
Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 



Page 


Page 




Construction of cams 


104 


55 


Continuous take-up motion 


161 




Cotton warp preparation 


11 




Cotton yarns 


250 


142 


Creel 19, 40, 


75 


134 


Crompton gingham loom 


190 


30 


fixing of motion 


197 


13 


lower box motion 


193 


215 


multiplier 


190 


134 


timing the motion 


197 


, 49 


upper box motion 


190 


19 


Cutting filling 


241 


SI 


Cylinders 


43 


59 
143 


D 




57 


Dogs on picking arms 


126 


16 


Double action Jacquard machine 


302 


239 


Double lift and single cylinder Jacquard 




61 


machines 


300 


14 


Double screw on chain warpers 


34 


201 


E 





Eccentricity of the lay 
Expansion comb 



143 



Expansion drum 


29 


Expansion reed 


20 


P 




Faller rod 


21 


Fan 


47 


Filling breaking 


239 


Filling being cut 


241 


Filling, prevention of from drawing 


189 


Filling stop motion 


165 


Formation of pattern 


76 


Formulas for size 


55 


Friction 


156 


Front binders 


139 



319 



II 



INDEX 



G 

Gear drive 
Gear let-off 
General loom fixing 
Gradual tapered binder 

H 

Hand-beamer 

Hand-rail warper 

Heavy size, formula for 

Hooks 

Humidity In weave room 



Immersion roller 
Intermittent take-up motion 



Page 

47 
151 
214 
140 



71 

6S 

65 

280 

272 



42 
159 



Jacquard machines 


270-310 


close shed 


310 


double action 


302 


double lift and single cylinder 


300 


needle plate 


2S6 


outer workings of 


293 


rise and fall 


310 


setting griffe 


291 


single action 


'285 


spring box 


288 


K 




Knott er 


19 


Knowles gingham looms 


172 


chain binding 


182 


fitting new set of boxes 


174 


lower motion 


175 


multiplier 


184 


multiplying riser 


185 


timing box motion 


ISO 


timing the cam 


182 


upper box motion 


ISO 


Knowles narrow loom 


210 


L 




Lay 


148 


eccentricity of 


143 


Leese, taking the 


80 


Leese reed 


31, 79 



Page 

Leese rods 61 

Let-off motions 151 

Light size, formula for 55 

Linen yarns 253 

Linker 35 
Long-chain beanier 30, 37 

Long-chain process 66 
Looms 

care of 213 

to find cost of production of 261 

to find production of 256 

fixing, general 214 

plain power 90 

stopping 246 

M 

Machines 

balling 30 

Jacquard 279 

winding 33 

Measiurements of shed 103 

Measiu'ing motion 26 

Measuring roll 21 
Measiu'ing roll and bell gear, calculations 

for 51 

Medium size, formula for 55 

N 

Needles for double-action Jacquard 305 

Negative take-up motion 162 



Odd points pertaining to warps 211 

Overhead bailer 32 



Pattern, formation of 76 

Pattern, picking the 77 

Pickers, saving of 138 

Picking arms, dogs on 120 

Picking motion of loom 118 

Picking the pattern 77 

Picking stand and shoe 127 

Picking stick, setting of 130 

Plain power loom 90 

Poor cloth in general 235 

Poor selvedges 235 

Positive take-up motions 157 



Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 



INDEX 



III 



Power warping 
Press roll 

Production of spoolers 
Protection device 



Q 



Quiller 



R 

Reducing valve 

Reel 

Relation of cone pitch 

Ring temples 

Rise and fall Jacauard machine 



Page 

71 

49, 81 

18 

168 



37 



44 

81 

126 

204 

310 



93, 3 



58, 



Saving of pickers 

Setting of picking stick 

Shed, measm-ements of 

Shedding motion 

Short chain beamer 

Shuttle flying out 

Shuttle boxes and shuttles 

Silk, raw 

Single action Jacquard machine 

Size, formulas for 

Size box 

Size kettle 

Sizing 

Sizing compoimds 

antiseptic 

fatty matter 

mineral 

vegetable 

waxes 
Sizing ingredients 
Slasher 

Slow motion drive 
Softening compoimds 
Speed, calculations for 
SpUt rods 
Spooler 

production of 
Spooling 
Note. — For page numbers see foot of pages. 



Spring box 

Spun silk 

Squeeze rolls 

Steam dresser 

Steam trap 

Stock taking 

Stop motion, wrong timing of 

Strengthening compounds 

Striped cotton sliirlings, calculations for 

Swells or Ijinders 

Swinging comb 



Take-up motions 
Temples 
Tension roll 



Page 

288 

252 

43 

75 

44 

254 

248 

55 

61 

139 

37 



157 

200 

49 



138 
130 


xnreaa guiue 
Traverse guide 


1 1 
32 


103 


Treadle bowl, relation of to cam 


102 


302 


Twisting and drawing in warps 


83 


38 
225 
149 
252 


U 

Unequal cams, result of 


100 


Uneven cloth 


229 


285 


V 




55 


Vacuum valve 


45 


41 
56 
52 


Variable motion 


25 


W 




, 75 


Warp 




59 


odd points pertaining to 


211 


58 


preparation of 


11- 81 


59 


twisting and drawing in 


S3 


58 


Weave room 




59 


calculations 


249 


54 


cost of production in 


269 


39 


humidity in 


272 


51 


report 


267 


55 


Weaving 


83-276 


12 


Weighting 


55 


47 


Winding macliine 


33 


11 


Woolen and worsted warp dressing 


68 


IS 


AVoolen yarns 


251 


71 


Worsted yarns 


252 



321 



t 



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